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Everyone knows Cold Hawaii or the Ringkøbing Fjord. But there is still plenty to discover off the beaten track. Chris Hafer and Flo Söhnchen packed up the campervan when the forecast was good and set off for the area north of Copenhagen. They brought a detailed guide with them:
Something is rotten in the state of Denmark"(Hamlet, 1st act, 4th scene)
"Why didn't you go to Klitmøller?" I don't know how many times we were asked this question by the local surfers during our trip. Apparently the Danes found our choice of spot as funny as Hamlet once found the machinations of the Danish state.
Yes, why not? My buddy Flo Söhnchen also asked this question and spontaneously agreed to come along for a few days, albeit with serious reservations. Because on the first day we were greeted by continuous rain and much less wind and waves than forecast. Flo scoffed more than once: "Heidkate would have been better."
Wind, waves and friendly Danes
But as the East Frisian philosopher Otto Waalkes used to say? "Danes don't lie." And the Danish weather forecast kept its word and even delivered more wind than forecast. By then, any doubts Flo had about our trip were as blown away as the sand on the beach. Sunshine and up to 40 knots of wind, plus waves and more than friendly local Danes. As mentioned at the beginning, they were more than surprised that German surfers would stray into their territory. But they were positively amazed and open-minded and gave us tips for the best spots, and the atmosphere on the water was just as good. Wind for our smallest sails, waves of amazing size as ramps for jumping or even for riding downwind, somehow there was always just one last wave before sunset that we wanted to take - and in summer it only gets dark very late in Denmark.
After a ten-hour day on the water, we moaned and groaned loudly from our accommodation in the evening. Any Viking would probably have laughed scornfully at our moaning and had another mead. But somehow we managed to get our tired bodies out of bed the next day, as the wind continued.
So we were able to visit the surf spots one after the other under the expert guidance of the local surfers, and each time we were amazed at how versatile Sjaeland is for the different requirements of windsurfers, there really is something for everyone. From slalom spots on fjords, where the Vikings had already set up camp, to standing and freestyle areas and wave spots for almost every level, plus a really beautiful and varied landscape.
The region around Hornbaek is called the Danish Riviera for good reason. Beautiful sandy beaches and the proximity to the capital Copenhagen make the area a very popular destination for the Danes themselves.
Which would have answered the question of why we didn't actually go to Klitmøller.
Why didn't you go to Klitmøller, we were asked by the locals"
The best windsurfing spots in North Zealand
The spots on the north coast are close together, but due to the slight curvature of the coastline, things can look completely different just 15 minutes further on, depending on the wind direction. The rule of thumb is: the further west or north the wind blows, the further east you move along the coast. The waves are typically not dangerous in the Baltic Sea, but can become surprisingly high and steep after a short time in strong winds. Then there is also a current to leeward that should not be underestimated, especially close to the shore.
Beginners, intermediates and freeriders will find ideal conditions on the Ise and Roskildefjørd and the Arresø.
1 Lynaes
The top spot for all beginners and intermediates. Huge standing area with complete infrastructure, café and shop for kiters and surfers. Shoes are recommended because of the shells, as are short fins, as the water can become very shallow depending on the wind direction and tide level. Almost any wind direction works.
2 Hundested
Located directly at the harbour of Hundested, the spot offers the entire infrastructure with showers, toilets, kiosk and WiFi. The spot itself, with its small but fine sandy beach and liveguard station, works particularly well in W-NW winds, when smaller waves can also build up. In SW, the wind is somewhat weakened by the harbour buildings, but you have perfect freestyle conditions against a great backdrop.
3 Liseleje
A breakwater to the left of the entrance at the large car park organises the waves so that surfing is also possible here. A sandbank also makes for steep waves, which can be somewhat bigger than at the other spots. You can also park right next to the breakwater and rig up on a meadow in the dunes. Apart from the pier, there are no obstacles in the water. Infrastructure close to the spot with many cafés and restaurants. SW is the best direction.
4 Tisvildeley
Nice little place with a large car park right on the beach. Lifeguard
toilets and a very beautiful backdrop with forest. A little wave usually builds up here first if it is otherwise still flat. No dangers when entering. W-SW is also the best direction here, if it blows too south, the higher dunes and the forest cover the wind.
5 Rågeleje
Large car park with toilet and a meadow for rigging. Liveguard hut on the beach, a few stones under the water surface in the shore area. The Copenhagen windsurfing scene meets here in good conditions, first on the water and then at one of the ice-cream parlours. W-SW is possible, SW is sideshore and the best direction.
6 Udsholt/Havstokke
When it works, it's the best wave spot in the area. The waves break relatively orderly around a headland and also with pressure over a sandbank. However, it is more of a spot for experienced surfers, as the entry and the shore area with larger rocks and a wind cover are somewhat more demanding. Important: park at the top of the main road, then walk a few metres along the small road to the steps on the beach. This road is reserved exclusively for local residents. Here, a few degrees in the wind angle decide how good it will be. If the wind blows sideshore in Rageleje, Udsholt doesn't work yet. No infrastructure.
7 Smidstrup
Please do not use the private paths leading to the beach. These are narrow and trouble with the neighbours should be avoidable. Very nice view from the water to the houses in the forest and the cliffs in front of Gileleje. The Sognevej road leads to the beach car park with toilet and lifeguard station, the entrance is to the east of the bathing ladders. The beach consists of pebbles.
W to WSW is the best direction for sideshore conditions.
8 Gileleje
Here you will notice the bend in the coastline when the previously described spots become light to onshore, i.e. in WNW the spot goes east of the harbour. The waves are somewhat organised by the pier of the harbour, but are also somewhat smaller than at the other spots. Meadow for rigging, infrastructure in the harbour with very good fish restaurants. Beware of stones in the water near the shore.
9 Munkerup
If the wind turns even further north to NW, the sandbank off Munkerup offers very good conditions for riding and jumping. However, rocks restrict the area for surfing, and the path to the beach from the car park in the forest is a little longer. No infrastructure.
10 Hornbaek
The small town with its many cafés and restaurants near the really fine sandy beach is a little more sophisticated and hip. Surfing takes place to the east of the harbour, where the waves are even suitable for surfing through the harbour pier - if there is enough swell. There are parking spaces next to the harbour, in the harbour only 30 minutes with a parking disc are allowed, it is controlled! Infrastructure with toilets available, beautiful view of Sweden on the other side of the sound.
11 Ram lots
At the yacht club, you can surf on Denmark's largest lake. Freestyle, freeride and slalom opportunities are available here, especially when the wind blows from the south. However, the entrance takes a little getting used to, as you follow a path through a reed belt at the southern end of the yacht club.
12 Roskilde/Veddelev
If you are looking for shallow water, you will find it at the southern end of Roskilde Fjørd. Where the Vikings once cruised, you can enjoy relaxed shallow water and a small standing area. You can either start at the harbour, where you will usually find slalom pilots from the local surf club, or via the campsite ( https://roskildecamping.dk ), which is also a good base. If you're lucky, you'll be surfing next to the replicas of the Viking ships!
Windsurfing in the north of Zealand - general spot information
Here are the most important facts about travelling to North Zealand:
Journey
There are two ways of travelling to Zealand by car, either by ferry from Puttgarden to Rødby ( www.scandlines.de ), the cheaper alternative is to drive over the Storebaelt Bridge. A car currently costs 35 euros each way ( www.storebaelt.dk ). If you choose the route over the Frederikssund Bridge, don't forget to pay the small toll online within four days, otherwise it won't be as cheap ( www.fjordpay.dk/da ).
Living & Camping
Wild camping is generally prohibited and is also subject to heavy fines. However, many campsites are still closed in spring. In addition to the option of finding accommodation online, there are a number of campsites that offer permanent cabins as well as pitches. The major providers such as Novasol ( www.novasol.de ) are represented, and there is a campsite or local holiday home provider in almost every town.
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations
The best times to visit are spring and autumn. It may be a little cooler, but it is still empty, while in summer the wind is often weak and the beaches are full. The proximity to Copenhagen in particular attracts many holidaymakers. A 5/3 suit for the cooler days can't hurt, and shoes are also recommended at many spots because of the shells and stones. Waves only form in the Kattegat when the wind is strong enough, but then amazing waves can run at the spots. But even in summer you can be lucky - as we were - and a low-pressure system ensures perfect conditions.
Shops and schools
In Lynaes there is a windsurfing and kitesurfing school including hire and shop with a very relaxed atmosphere and everything that goes with it ( www.surfcenter.dk ). On Copenhagen's city beach Amager there is also a School .