When zapping through possible destinations for a SUP paddle weekend with a varied supporting programme, we get stuck in the Millstätter See - Bad Kleinkirchheim - Nockberge region. The preview on various websites promises action in four parts. We only have two days, but we book the trip anyway - and just like a gripping Netflix series, we don't manage to wait a whole week for the next episode and watch the entire season in one weekend, which takes us from the Drau via Lake Millstatt, then along the Flow Country Trail to the hidden Brennsee lake.
Drava, the canoeing river
Elke drives our shuttle. She works for the organiser Draupaddelweg and is, of course, a kayaker. "The part you're paddling today is less frequented by kayaks," she explains, "from here onwards the river is a bit calmer." Our starting point in Spittal marks the beginning of the lower Drau Valley. Whitewater action for kayak paddlers with helmets, waistcoats and throw bags is mainly found in the upper Drau Valley. Nevertheless, the route we have chosen is also an integral part of the Drau Paddle Trail, which runs for a total of 210 kilometres from Lienz to Lavamünd through the whole of Carinthia. And for a relaxed tour on the SUP, we don't need any torrential currents or thick boulders in the way.
Between Spittal and Feistritz, 15 kilometres of usually calm-flowing water await us - making it ideal for families and beginners to river paddling. "You could also travel by train without my help, as the train station is not too far from either end point. That's feasible with the SUPs," adds Elke, "Kayakers often paddle several day stages and then travel back by train, we'll take care of the kayaks." But we're not thinking about the return journey yet, we just want to get out and enjoy ourselves as quickly as possible.
The entry point is on the grounds of the Draufluss campsite. "We could have parked the campervan here," I say to Sonja - "it would have been straight from the bed to the board." And with an unobstructed view of the river. Elke steers past the campers, stopping just a few metres from the river. "The operators here are very nice," she tells us, "if you ask up front, you can certainly carry your private board in here or park your car during the day." The unloading from the roof and the warm farewell are over faster than I can mount my sliding fins, and we are already standing there alone. A glance across the river makes me a little uneasy: "It's really flowing pretty fast today, I wish we'd brought wider boards." "It's fine," says Sonja, "we'll just start on our knees," and clamps her 28-inch flatwater rocket under her arm. Elke had already warned us on the journey: "It's rained a lot recently, and the late snowmelt this year will add to that."
Caribbean colours in Carinthia
From the small sandy beach, we push our boards into the river with a little awe. The colours look unrealistically Caribbean. Suddenly I'm up to my waist in water. Sure, it's a sandy beach, but it's not the sea - you can't stand up a metre from the shore. We quickly get up from the initial knee paddling, the Drau takes us along at a good ten kilometres per hour like the magic carpets at the airport, with a little paddle effort it feels like e-biking on the water. We rock through the landscape with the waves. We don't need knee pads or helmets as the river is wide and deep throughout. It is nestled between two mountain ranges, to the right it rises to over 2000 metres. The banks are covered in dense vegetation throughout, with the mountains behind adding to the beautiful panorama in countless lush shades of green.
At our high speed, it looks as if the mountains are passing behind the riverbank vegetation like a gigantic theatre backdrop. On the left bank in particular, large natural stones have been repeatedly placed in the river, behind which small eddies and mini sandy beaches have formed, where we enter the eddies and take short breaks - for photos and to enjoy the view of the lush green wooded mountains with only a few isolated farmsteads. A road runs along the right bank of the river in places, but it is almost imperceptible. Estimated to be 40 metres wide at the start, the river widens to 60 metres as the tour progresses. After about five kilometres, the water surface is as smooth as iron, even with the unusually high water flow at the time, and the mighty water vein radiates impressive calm. Now it's time to paddle ourselves to the exit, after almost exclusively steering for the first third. From the exit at the Ferndorf slipway, we set off straight away for the second episode: sightseeing on Lake Millstatt.
Nature and culture on Lake Millstatt
In Seeboden, where we set up camp, we immediately feel like we're in SUP City. There are more signs for SUP hire than stopping bans anywhere else and there are a few paddlers on the water. Access to the water here, as in Millstatt, is usually via the numerous lidos. "The public beach access points are primarily intended for a quick dip in the lake, but you can also get into the water with a SUP," we learn with a wink from a local insider. The operators of the numerous paid beach resorts must have thought of this.
However, these paid pools (with SUP hire) look extremely well maintained with the best infrastructure and are designed for maximum comfort for a long day of swimming - some are slightly terraced, the lawn is always perfectly manicured - I would have my hair cut by their green keeper without hesitation. Klingerpark and Klaubergpark are the two public access points in Seeboden. For sightseeing paddling, the north bank along Seeboden or Millstatt is recommended. On the western outskirts of Millstatt, for example, the café-bistro Kap 4613 floats on the water - albeit directly on the shore - and even offers mooring facilities for small boats or SUPs. Tables and chairs on deck are mostly set in fine sand.
Many leisure activities on Lake Millstatt
At the eastern end of Millstatt, the Villa Verdin is impressive. In Seeboden, not far from the marvellous Klinger Park, we discover the little mermaid at the outflow of the Seebach stream. The southern shore of the lake, on the other hand, is unspoilt and undeveloped. You can paddle across quickly from Seeboden on a SUP. Small bays invite you to have a picnic. Local organisers have also recognised this and offer a prepared dinner for two for booking under the motto "Time for two": with rowing boat, picnic basket and reserved bay. Paddling is permitted, but with the request that paying boat couples leave the special place for double occupancy. In addition, both Seeboden and Millstatt are equipped for families with children: With diving towers, bike parks, volleyball courts and lots more leisure activities - framed by the impressive mountain panorama.
Biking for all skill levels
The third episode begins early the next morning at Lake Brennsee, at the Krainer sports school. As an MTB pioneer, Manfred Krainer has explored the surrounding mountains, while his son Adrian, an Olympic snowboard competitor in Sochi 2014, brings new trend sports such as wingfoiling to the lake. But we get on our e-MTBs and put the pedal to the metal. Our guide Miro leads us up the mountain, first along a quiet little road, then along pleasantly shady forest paths. We chat and barely feel the metres in altitude.
The Flow Country Trail lies a good 1000 metres above the lake: on 15 kilometres of perfectly groomed trail, even trail beginners can enjoy a harmonious flow without any annoying roots, holes or rocks. Those who like it a little more rugged and natural will not be disappointed either. Numerous trails shared by bikers and hikers and, of course, the Rossalmhütten/Alter-Almweg trail appeal to advanced bikers. After the last descent, all bikers can cool off in the Brennsee lake - and this is a real insider tip.
Insider tip Brennsee
Like a small Lake Garda, Lake Brennsee, just 18 kilometres from Millstatt, nestles between the mountains and benefits from stronger thermals, which, with "often up to 14 knots of wind" as Adrian reports, create very sporty conditions for sailors and lift wingfoilers onto the foil. What Adrian Krainer shows on his Instagram account (@adrian_krainer) certainly promises a lot.
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But you can't order wind like a pizza, so we go for a short SUP ride on the lake, which is only slightly rippled today. "The general northerly current is too strong at the moment, so the thermals from the south can't prevail," a surf instructor explains. It's just like Lake Garda: there are so many theories about whether there is wind or not that one always fits. We don't care, the manageable, approximately one kilometre long and 600 metre wide lake looks invitingly lovely without wind for a SUP round - and we are happy to take it with us at the end. As tired as after a marathon series and still in disbelief about the densely packed impressions, we set off on the journey home and agree: a follow-up stage, perhaps even at the next level, then with a tour on the upper Drau, a detour to the Nock nature trails, plus some wingfoil action? We'd love to see that!
Info Carinthia
- MBN Tourismusmanagement GmbHfor almost all information on the countless activities and accommodation, from campsites to 5-star hotels.
- Krainer Sports SchoolContact at Lake Brennsee for sailing, surfing, e-MTB, SUP and other fun & trend sports.
- Drau paddle path - Contact for SUP tours on the Drau.
