Pacasmayo had always been on my wish list of places to visit until I finally went there in 2017. I've been coming back ever since (except during the pandemic), and last year I even spent three months there! It just goes to show how much I enjoy the conditions and how reliable this spot is! Surfing the same waves with pelicans, with the view of the golden desert, the pier and the promenade lit up in the faint glow of the setting sun, and riding the last wave of the day back to shore in the light of the lighthouse, it puts a smile on everyone's face. And the next day you wake up and know that it will continue in the same way. There's certainly a reason why they say there's some "paca magic" in this wave! The Mochicas already knew one thing: Peruvian waves are for riding!
When choosing a holiday destination, most of us think of a great place to go windsurfing to have fun with friends, preferably with consistent conditions. But where to go if you really want to develop your windsurfing skills? For those who want to learn to jump, everyone knows that Gran Canaria and Tenerife simply offer the perfect spots. But where can you go if you want to improve your surfing? Pacasmayo is the perfect place to ride endless dream waves, where you can learn faster than anywhere else and have endless fun!
Fishermen have always surfed the waves
Peru has more than 3000 kilometres of coastline that catches swell after swell and turns them into some of the longest waves in the world! Peru has such great waves that they are even protected by law! Inland, the country is rich in culture, but it is also the birthplace of surfing - more specifically a form of SUP, as the local fishermen paddled the waves standing up on their "caballitos de totora" (reed horses). There is evidence that these Mochica fishermen surfed on the beaches of Huanchaco on pottery that is over 3000 years old!
The Peruvian winter on the coast is mild, especially in the northern area, and although the water is cold (thick neo!), the climate out of the water is pleasant, with cooler nights. Peru is still one of the few places that still offers the opportunity to ride outstanding waves while only a few others are in the water. If you like peace and quiet, good food and surfing until sunset with only pelicans for company, you'll be happy on Peru's beaches.
Pacasmayo, the dream of every windsurfer
The entire coast of Peru is very constantly exposed to the south swells of the Pacific during the winter months, and even in the capital Lima there are plenty of great and deserted waves! As the coast is south-west facing and some capes with their bays face the sunset, the south and south-west swells turn around the capes into the bays and form some of the most perfect and longest waves in the world! I explored a few spots in the north during the south swell season (from April to October) and couldn't believe it! My favourites for surfing were Chicama, Pacasmayo and Lobitos, but of course there are many other perfect lefthander spots to discover.
Apart from the endless waves, the Peruvian coast is blessed with very constant side-offshore winds - every windsurfer's dream. The high pressure system of the South Pacific High (a semi-permanent subtropical anticyclone in the ocean off Chile) plays an important role for the trade winds in the Pacific close to the equator. This combination of endless left-hand waves and port tack winds makes this coast a paradise for windsurfers, where there are many surfing and windsurfing spots. However, the small town of Pacasmayo in the north of Peru stands out from them all: it is blessed with a magical combination of different factors that make it unique.
Why Pacasmayo is special
In Pacasmayo, the coastline and subsoil are designed as if everything is geared towards creating an unreal, perfect, never-ending wave to ride - probably the longest and cleanest wave for windsurfing there is!
Pacasmayo not only has the perfect combination of ingredients (wind wave direction and geography), it really is a swell magnet that picks up even the smallest waves. I'm not exaggerating when I say that it never gets less than about head-high. Nevertheless, the spot also works with much bigger waves and never gets really crowded. The bigger the swell, the better connected the wave is and on a good day it can travel up to two kilometres from the point! They don't call it "Pacasmagic" for nothing.
Pacasmayo is like a big water sports playground
Pacasmayo is the perfect destination for windsurfers and other water sports enthusiasts who want to spend endless hours in the water, feel more comfortable in bigger waves, practice and improve a lot and get the longest waves of their lives. There are perfect conditions for surfing, SUP, longboarding, kitesurfing, wingfoiling ... Pacasmayo is like a water sports playground. The waves are glassy for surfing in the morning and perfect for all wind sports in the afternoon. In my opinion, Pacasmayo is the perfect place to improve your wave riding.
If you catch a wave at the point, you can ride it for a few minutes! In Peru you get more turns on a single wave than in weeks at many other spots in the world! The waves break so perfectly that you can hardly believe it. They can be as clean as if there was no wind (sometimes there is almost no wind!). The wave has different sections where everyone can stay and concentrate on riding depending on their ability, from very powerful and hollow to very gentle.
No shorebreak, reefs or sharks - just waves
Pacasmayo is not an aggressive wave in most sections. The bottom is mostly sand, there are no unpleasant rocks, reefs, cliffs, sharks or shorebreaks. You can take a lot more risks here than in other places. There is only one inconvenience: the currents can get very strong on big days, after a wash you may have to swim for more than 10 to 15 minutes. Otherwise, everything is fine.
The bigger it gets, the more the wave also tends to run predictably and not break close out. The wave breaks completely differently in different sections. With small to medium waves it starts gently, then there is a big hollow section, then the wind turns more sideways and the wave gets faster with some very hollow sections, then at the very end (3 minutes later!) the biggest section with stronger wind. The wind direction also changes throughout the day, becoming more offshore at sunset and smoothing out the waves until they become almost glassy, making it perfect for the down-the-line side-off riding style!
Area information Pacasmayo
Wind and weather
The further north along the coast of Peru, the nicer and less foggy the weather, even if the water is still cold due to the Humboldt Current. Pacasmayo is located in the north of Peru, halfway between Lima and the border with Ecuador. The winter is mild and dry, which makes it uncomfortable enough to attract large crowds, but very nice for those who really love waves ;)
The city
Pacasmayo is a city that experienced its golden age during the time of the Guano trade and as a transport hub for tobacco. The centre of the city is centred around the majestic pier that once led directly to one of the busiest commercial railway lines in the north of the country. The city is currently experiencing something of a renaissance, especially after the pandemic, which has hit this country particularly hard. With the slow reopening of businesses and the emergence of new shops and restaurants, Pacasmayo is returning as a charming and thriving town, along its beautiful promenade, the lovely pier (originally around 700 metres long, now slightly shorter due to the strong waves that have rolled over it) and, of course, its iconic lighthouse.
The town itself is small, but offers everything you need. Accommodation is available in all categories, either directly at the spot or a little further into the town, and there are also numerous restaurants, hire shops, repair shops, a large supermarket, two large food markets with delicious fruit and plenty of fresh fish. A car is not necessary as everything is within walking distance. If you prefer, you can also easily take a moto-taxi (tuk-tuk) to get into town and back. The locals tend to remain aloof towards the few tourists, although they show a certain curiosity towards foreigners and are very friendly.
Practical information about Pacasmayo
Best time to travel
The coast of Peru is exposed to both south and north swells, which means that there are two surfing seasons and you can surf almost all year round. The south swell season in the Peruvian winter months, from April to October, tends to be more reliable, when the endless lefts of Pacasmayo and Chicama are running. The waves are bigger, more consistent and even though the water is a little colder, the weather is more stable and less stormy. This is the season I've always been there and I've never been disappointed!
The north waves come from the same systems that hit Hawaii's north shore in the winter months of October to April, which happen to fall during Peru's summer months. The water is warmer, but the waves aren't as consistent and it can be a little rainy. At north swell, the same surf spots work, but the waves are much faster and steeper. There are also many surf spots around Lobitos that only work with north swell. If you come here between October and April, you should also have a plan B and be open to a bit of cultural life between sessions.
Accommodation
The Hotel El Faro is located close to the spot, offers a beautiful view and is a great base for all water sports enthusiasts. You can paddle directly from the hotel to the lighthouse in smaller waves, but if you prefer to save your energy, you can take a moto-taxi for a dollar.
Hotels and hostels in the city are cheaper, making it easier to socialise and break out of the tourist bubble, but you will have to take a moto-taxi to the lighthouse. If you are staying longer, you can also rent a flat and will be glad to have somewhere with a kitchen to add variety to your meals. The regional produce is excellent. You can even hire a local chef to come to your home and teach you how to prepare the local specialities, and the price is not much higher than going out to eat.
Food and drink
I love trying out everything. From the street trucks or tiny eateries where you can get a ceviche and a patata rellena (stuffed potato) for 1 dollar, to the daily lunch menus with lots of options and delicious fried fish for 3 dollars, to a drink or a good meal in places with breathtaking views, such as at the Hotel El Faro or on the terrace of the Hotel Pakatnamu, right on the Malecon (promenade) in the city, with a pool, music and a breathtaking sunset over the Pacasmayo pier. You should definitely try all kinds of fish, ceviches and pescado sudado. When it comes to drinks, there's no way around pisco sour - but be careful, it goes down very well! And of course you should definitely try Pacasmayo's locally brewed craft beer from Pakat Cerveceria.
You should bring this equipment with you to Pacasmayo
There is no windsurfing equipment hire on site, so you have to bring your own equipment. The Hotel El Faro sometimes has a few items for hire if something breaks.
- Large waveboard for bobbing: Gliding conditions are rare, you need the extra volume to catch the waves, but also for the long way back to the point, without wind and against the current.
- Two larger wave sails:With the exception of a few windy days, only the larger one will be used.
- Spare parts: Not much breaks, but if it does, it could be difficult to find a replacement part.
- Warm wetsuit (4/3, better 5/4):Maybe a thinner wetsuit will do at first glance, but I prefer to stay warm and spend more time on the water
- Comfortable harness:The way back to the point against the current after a long journey can take up to 15 minutes!
- Warm clothes and a jacket:As soon as the sun goes down, it gets chilly. If you have forgotten something, you can buy warm clothes very cheaply in the city.
- Warm blanket:If the hotel or flat doesn't have a warm blanket, buy one at the market to get a good night's sleep and regenerate from the endless hours on the water
- Sun cream: Even when it's cold and you're wearing a long wetsuit, the sun is very strong, even on cloudy days.
- Belts for roof racks: You can't rely on taxis to have seatbelts. It is always much easier to have your own seatbelts in your boardbag to get to/from the airport or bus station
Journey
If you are travelling to Peru from abroad, you generally have two options for getting to Pacasmayo:
By plane to Chiclayo or Trujillo, both of which are around two hours' drive from Pacasmayo, Chiclayo to the north and Trujillo to the south. From there, a private transfer service runs from the airport and takes visitors and windsurfing luggage directly to the hotel or flat. Combined flights are often cheaper and easier.
The second option is to fly to Lima and then take a 9-hour bus journey directly to Pacasmayo. It sounds complicated, but it's really easy and takes a similar amount of time. It is also cheaper if the flights are not connected. Night buses from Lima offer berths and also take board bags.
