- 20 years ago there weren't even any roads in Jericoacoara
- It all started with a donkey called Robby Naish
- New learning system for wingfoiling
- Jeri can only be reached by four-wheel drive car via the beach
- Jericoacoara has long waves, easy to ride
- In Jericoacoara, it's all about surfing and enjoying yourself
January in Upper Bavaria! It's still dark when I leave the house and trudge through the deep snow. I glance anxiously at my watch. If the roads are reasonably clear, I should arrive on time. But then this: my old VW bus won't start. Only after several attempts do I revive the engine. The roads are as smooth as glass. I carefully step on the brakes and the bus skids sideways. Phew, that's a good start! I drive on, not a snow plough to be seen for miles. I crawl along the country road towards the airport at walking pace. The flight to Brazil leaves in three hours. Normally easy to manage, but in these conditions ... On the motorway - behind an armada of snowploughs - I can hardly go any faster. The plane takes off in two hours. I see black. Bye-bye, Fortaleza, bye-bye, surfing holiday. Change of plans: I stop at the nearest railway station. After endless minutes, a train arrives out of the darkness. My plane takes off in an hour. With the best will in the world, I can't make it ...
When I finally arrive at the airport, I sprint to the counter with my small hand luggage. The lady at check-in says emotionlessly: "The gate is closed, sorry." My dreams of the beach and waves evaporate in the raging snowstorm behind the glass front. What do I do now? I look at photos of my destination Jericoacoara, the surf spot, on the internet: white sandy beach, blue sky, windsurfers and wingfoilers slashing the waves. "Screw the money, I'll do it," I think to myself and buy a new ticket to Fortaleza on my mobile phone.
20 years ago there weren't even any roads in Jericoacoara
Hours later, I'm flying over Lisbon in the direction of summer. I've read and heard a lot about Jericoacoara, so I'm curious to see what has become of the famous beach in northern Brazil since Surf Magazine's first visit more than 20 years ago. Back then, Jericoacoara was a small fishing village surrounded by sand dunes. Hardly any tourists strayed there. There were no roads, the path led across the beach to a remote little paradise about 300 kilometres northwest of Fortaleza. My friend Dimitri Lehner still raves to me today about what he experienced there many years ago. He borrowed a buggy and made his way through the dunes to one of the windiest places in the world: Jericoacoara with its colourful little houses, small alleyways and a large bay. The people, mostly fishermen, seemed relaxed; there was no sign of the hectic pace of our industrialised world here. 20 years and numerous articles in many surfing publications later, I honestly fear the worst: can I expect bed castles, concrete and Ballermann on the Atlantic coast of Brazil?
Jose, my shuttle driver, greets me. The transfer to the wind paradise normally takes five hours. Shortly before Jericoacoara, Jose pulls into a petrol station and explains to me with a grin in broken English: "Less pressure in tires before we go to the beach, you know?" Lower tyre pressure gives off-road vehicles more grip in the sand. So there is still no proper road to get to Jericoacoara. There are signs on the right-hand side of the sandy track. They are a guide to where you can and cannot drive. We cross small fords, sometimes on simple bridges. It looks like it was 20 years ago, I think to myself.
Welcome to paradise!
After a good half hour, we arrive in Jericoacoara. A cheerful, tanned man in his early 50s greets me with a smile: "Welcome to paradise," he says and gives me a friendly pat on the back. "I am Fabio, founder of Club Ventos, come with me, I will show you everything!" The small village has grown a bit, but it is very charming. There are no tower blocks, men and women play beach volleyball on the beach, everything feels relaxed, authentic and not overly touristy.
Atmosphere is important, but what brings me and most people here is the trade wind. It is said to flex its muscles here almost every day. Jericoacoara is located in the northern trade wind belt. Its geographical location and the desert-like landscape create local thermals that give the wind an extra boost from the afternoon hours onwards - up to six Beaufort from July to December. And that's how it is when I arrive.
It all started with a donkey called Robby Naish
Fabio recognised this potential 35 years ago and found the spot he had been looking for for a long time. With a donkey, which he affectionately called Robby Naish, he carted the surf equipment of his first customers to the beach. But then something unforeseeable happened. A story in the Washington Post about Jericoacoara and its beautiful beach suddenly drew the attention of many holidaymakers to the place. Fabio also travelled around the world, especially in Europe, to draw attention to Jericoacoara's uniqueness. He invited major tour operators for windsurfers, surf magazine and many industry representatives to come and see Jeri, as he affectionately calls it, for themselves. And so the small fishing village developed into an increasingly popular destination in the windsurfing scene.
In 2003, Fabio put his heart and soul into building a windsurfing club right on Jeri's sweet spot and Club Ventos was born. As the place has changed, so has Club Ventos. What began for Fabio 35 years ago with just "three boards and a donkey" has developed into a well-known water sports centre. I am particularly fond of the large garage right on the beach: hundreds of rigs are set up here, only the best high-end equipment, be it freestyle or wave boards, wingfoils or SUPs. Fabio then proudly shows me the lounge area over a drink. Also impressive: the new Apenunga Eco Hotel (with Club Ventos 2.0) is powered entirely by solar energy and all rooms have a sea view. Yesterday I was surrounded by a snowstorm, today I have 30 degrees, a cocktail in my hand and a room with a sea view. What could be better? I nod off.
"It's always windy here!"
I wake up to the sound of palm leaves and take a look out of the window. I see whitecaps on the sea, palm trees bending in the wind. It's 2 pm. I jump into my swimming shorts and walk to the beach. It feels like six Beaufort and the waves are chest-high. I bite my fist with joy and hurry into the garage. I frantically ask one of the employees: "Can I use one 4.7 rig and a waveboard? My name is Andy." "No problem," is his reply. "My name is Oseias. Should I help you carrying the stuff to the water?" I'm surprised, I've never been asked anything like that before. I answer reflexively: "No thanks, I'm in a hurry, because it's windy?" Laughing, Oseias calls after me: "No problem, my friend, no hurry, it's always windy here."
I'm finally in the water. The crew watch me. I casually jump onto the board, but the wind is too strong and pulls me over the board. I plop into the water like a sack of flour. I'm annoyed for a moment, then I have to smile at myself and look towards the garage - the crew are laughing too. A little later I surf to the end of the bay, where the wind is a little stronger, I jibe into a wave and surf back to the beach. Wow! How beautiful the bay, the water, the green palm trees and the ochre-coloured sand dunes look from here! The wave I'm surfing gets a little steeper and pushes me along. At the small cape at the right end of the bay, the waves change direction and head towards the bay, perfect for riding. The wave runs to the right, my favourite side. It's not too fast, giving me enough time for a cutback at the top. "Yes!", I shout enthusiastically and push my board harder into the turn. Everything runs like clockwork and I ride the wave downwind more and more radically. Awesome! After countless rides, I get out of the water two hours later. Oseias sits on a stool with his binoculars and watches the windsurfers. If one of them drifts off, a motorboat is ready to rescue him. I grin. He greets me with a hang loose and says: "I told you - no hurry, it's always windy here!"
New learning system for wingfoiling
The next day, I get up at 8 a.m. and my first glance is towards the sea. I grab a SUP and do my first morning session, then breakfast, chill out - and then my first wingfoil lesson. Fabio has told me about a new learning system that he wants to try out with me first. A mast is attached to a motorboat that can be folded out horizontally like a boom and locked in place.
Fabio taps me on the shoulder: "You wanna try our new learning system at first?" I don't think twice: "Yes, sure!" My goal was to learn to wingfoil in Jericoacoara, which means flying over the sea for at least 30 seconds. Fabio introduces me to Stefano: a blue-eyed Italian with striking facial features and short hair. Stefano greets me: "Ciao, I'm your wingfoil teacher!"
After a short theory lesson and a few exercises, we finally set off. We sit in the prepared Zodiac with a wingfoil board and head a few metres out to sea. Fabio explains to me how I should hold on to the pole - kneeling, arms outstretched - and off we go. The motorboat accelerates. I kneel on the board and hold on to the mast with my arms outstretched. The foil rises abruptly - until the wing comes out of the water, stalling. I fall. "You are our first crash test dummy," Stefano shouts with a laugh. "Try it again and sit more in front and give pressure on your knees." Next attempt: the Zodiac's engine roars, the foil rises. I put weight on my knees and the board glides parallel to the surface of the water - it works. "Fantastico", I hear Stefano shout. With this sense of achievement, we head back to the beach.
Jeri can only be reached by four-wheel drive car via the beach
Club Ventos focuses on windsurfers and wingfoilers; kitesurfing has been completely abandoned. With its new construction (in 2022), the hotel complex offers more service, a large restaurant, a bar and a large chill-out area with a huge raised infinity pool that is open until 8 pm. Families with children will also find plenty of variety and space to relax there. Fabio is currently sitting at the bar, so I go over to him to get some information. The best things in life happen gradually, he philosophises: "The secret of Jeri is its slow development." The village and 200 square kilometres around it were declared a nature reserve in 1984, with clear conditions. There is still no tarmac road to Jeri. The only way to get there is by four-wheel drive over the beach. Despite increasing numbers of tourists, no hotel castles have been built. Local families have managed to preserve their paradise and create a gentle form of tourism.
Kiting has been abandoned at Club Ventos
It's almost evening and larger sets are rolling in in front of the hotel. The waves are about one and a half metres high. I'm actually too flat to surf, but I can't pass up an opportunity like this. I pour myself an energy drink, grab a Minimalibu 9.0-foot board from the garage, which has now become my favourite place in the hotel, and head to the beach. I watch the waves, the surfers and know where there is an area with rocks. At the end of the bay, I wait for a wave to run out. I take a run-up and jump into the sea with my surfboard and paddle into the line-up.
Jericoacoara has long waves, easy to ride
No, these are not Hawaiian killer waves, but long, light waves that run perfectly to the right - ideal for riding with a longboard or a wingfoil. I sit in the line-up and watch the wingfoilers as they ride seemingly weightlessly upwind in light winds, then grab a wave and ride it into the bay. Yes, that's exactly what I want to do. But now I'm sitting on my wave rider and looking out to sea, with the sun setting to my left. I love this atmosphere, wait until I'm alone and paddle out to catch the next wave. It goes under me, crap! The next wave comes, I try my luck again, lying a little further forward on the board. After a few paddle strokes, I can feel the wave taking me with it. It's amazing, I'm on the wave and I'm riding it diagonally to the right. Now I get cocky and try a few turns. I'm certainly no Kelly Slater, but this wave is magical, everything I try works straight away.
When I reach Club Ventos, I feel a sense of happiness, run back up to the end of the bay, jump into the water again, paddle to the line-up, look at the setting sun and thank myself for the wonderful day. Then I concentrate on the next wave. The lights of the village and the club sparkle in the twilight. I'm all alone, but the spot is very safe, shallow in most places - depending on the tide - and the wave is not dangerous, ideal for beginners and advanced surfers. I paddle onto the next one and a half metre high wave and, as if by magic, everything works again. I count nine turns until the wave runs out. Grinning, I get out of the 26-degree water, park my board in the garage and walk to the bar. Fabio is sitting there and waves to me. He has two cocktails in his hand and says: "Old fashion, my favourite cocktail, one for you and one for me, cheers!" I hug Fabio and enjoy the drink with him.
Excellent gastronomy in small, hidden restaurants
After 20 years with European visitors, the village has developed into a rather sophisticated holiday destination with excellent gastronomy. However, the best restaurants are found by word of mouth. Sometimes you have to climb a narrow staircase to get to the best sushi "Kaze" or "Bistro Caiçara". Sometimes the tables are simply set up in the sand under the trees and lit by candlelight, as in "Tamarindo" or "Na casa della". These two restaurants are among my favourites. I am slowly getting used to the rhythm of the village, the pure deceleration.
Many Europeans came as tourists - and stayed. Like Danilo, the Italian windsurfing instructor who met his wife Teresa here. Having dinner with them under the stars without a menu is my absolute highlight. Teresa, a passionate cook, serves fish, local cuisine, pasta and a dessert of chocolate cake and regional fruit on a large table. If the way to a man's heart is through his stomach, I definitely understand why Danilo married Maria.
In Jericoacoara, it's all about surfing and enjoying yourself
But it's not just the food, it's the friendly atmosphere, the warmth of Teresa, Danilo, Fabio, his girlfriend Andrea and all the people I get to know here. Yes, I have really made friends here and feel the temptation to stay. Most of the windsurfers I've met have been returning to Jericoacoara for five, ten or even longer. I ask myself why. People answer: "We like it here, we feel at home. There's no stress because of the wind, the water is warm, it's safe, life is easy - surf and enjoy."
On the last day, Stefano - in his other life a well-known actor who stars in Netflix and cinema productions - gives me another wingfoil lesson. In the space of three days, he got me to fly over the sea for three minutes. What a feeling! It's 2 p.m. when I get out of the water. 15 minutes later I'm sitting in flip-flops and still wet swimming shorts on the shuttle that takes me back to Fortaleza airport. It feels like I'm going through a time gate. I feel the acceleration on the motorway, the busy airport and land in high-speed Germany. I look back, think of the waves, the wind, the many warm people, the club after my best surf session ever, and I realise: I have to come back in January with wind and waves, because that's the secret month!
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