When the surf editors asked me in spring 2023 if I could produce a spot guide for Karpathos, it sounded interesting to me. I had already worked on several Greek islands in the past and when I sold my surf centre on Crete in 2000, I was offered the opportunity to take over the management of a centre on Karpathos for the 2001 season. I didn't know this island back then, but there were many stories about Karpathos: "There's always wind, day and night". I also wanted to get to the bottom of the myth for a while and accepted the offer, because after that our little daughter was due to start school and my life would continue down to earth in Germany - at least that was the plan. So I travelled to Karpathos with my wife and toddler in February 2001.
Even in May, before the actual "wind season" began, the Meltemi blew strongly and without interruption. It was unimaginable what the wind would be like in the summer months. Our little daughter couldn't do any handicrafts or colouring outside without protection from the wind because the wind blew everything away. The windows and shutters rattled at night - I found the time there quite exhausting at the time.
The thermals on Karpathos increase the wind significantly, new buildings make it gusty
So 22 years later, in July 2023, we travelled from Sitia on Crete to Karpathos by ferry. I had already checked the wind forecasts for Karpathos beforehand on Crete - and they didn't look good from my point of view: Moody Meltemi and only a light north-westerly wind were in the forecast. However, I was in contact with Mikey from the Meltemi windsurfing centre in Devil's Bay, who reassured me and pointed out the prevailing thermals, which bring ten to 25 knots a day.
As soon as we arrived in the harbour of Pigadia, we were surprised by the construction boom on the island and the masses of tourists - in 2001 it was a completely different picture. On the way to Afiartis, you have a great view of the spots on the leeward side from the mountain and also of many newly built houses and flats on the terrain that slopes down to the sea. What is an advantage for the tourists has become a disadvantage for the quality of the wind - it has become gusty near the shore.
Karpathos has gone from a strong wind to a family holiday destination
On the other hand, Afiartis now offers many beautiful accommodation options to suit every taste and with short distances to the surf spots. Other things still seem familiar to us even after more than 20 years: the bare slopes of the 1200 metre high Kali Limni. The colourful hustle and bustle in the shops, tavernas and restaurants of the island's capital Pigadia. Or the old rituals and traditions in the village of Olympos, where bread is still baked in a stone oven and the locals are still dressed in traditional costumes.
And on the water? During our one-week stay, we were out on the water every day with sails between 4.0 and 5.2 m², despite the moderate forecast. It was noticeable, however, that the extreme storm days, when the Meltemi goes completely berserk, seem to have become less frequent over the years. Many conversations with surf instructors, centre managers and regular guests have also confirmed this impression. In my opinion, this is not a disadvantage, but actually a good thing for Karpathos as a surfing spot, as the island is increasingly developing into a combination spot where families are also well catered for and less experienced windsurfers can get out on the water almost every day.
- Also interesting: Work & travel summer on Karpathos - work, surf, sleep, repeat
The best windsurfing spots on Karpathos
1st Devil's Bay
35.4374, 27.1556
Devil's Bay usually has the strongest wind on Karpathos - which is not necessarily an advantage! The Meltemi windsurfing centre is located on site, with the latest windsurfing and wingfoil equipment. There is also a bar with a terrace at the centre, which offers breakfast, snacks, burgers and drinks - as well as the occasional themed evening. A rescue service is also available here.
Normal Meltemi winds from the northwest blow diagonally offshore from the left and gusty under land into the bay, which is around 900 metres long and 500 metres wide. If the Meltemi takes a break and the thermals get going, they arrive in Devil's Bay from the west-north-west. There is a beach with coarse sand or pebbles to get in. There are some flat rock slabs under the water near the shore that you should keep an eye on - but the areas are marked.
Depending on the wind force, the water near the shore is flat to slightly choppy, often providing good conditions for practising manoeuvres and tricks. When the Meltemi fires, a steep chop of half a metre to a metre high builds up further out. However, the wind is also noticeably more constant further out. If you head further downwind towards Gun Bay, you will find a beautiful shallow water area behind a headland.
2. gun bay
35.4300, 27.1557
In Gun Bay, the wind is often a little weaker. There is also a good infrastructure here, as the ION Surf Club has set up shop here with up-to-date and well-maintained equipment. MTB tours and wingfoil courses are also offered here, as well as a bar and a restaurant with a terrace and a view of Gun Bay and the windsurfing action.
The north-westerly Meltemi wind blows diagonally offshore from the left in Gun Bay and is more moderate than in Devil's Bay. The entrance is easy and pebbly, there are also some rocks in the shore area, but these are marked. The first 200 metres are also slightly gusty here, but the water is smooth and ideal for tricks or manoeuvres. Further out, the wind stabilises noticeably, but in strong winds there is a short, steep chop of up to one metre. The headland to leeward at least provides some visual safety.
3. chicken bay
35.4245, 27.1509
Even if the term "Chicken Bay" may sound a little disparaging, no one should be ashamed to go out on the water here. On the contrary: the very sheltered bay has a shallow and sandy standing area that stretches out almost 100 metres, where the water is knee to waist deep. This makes the bay ideal for beginners, intermediates and anyone who is not yet able to launch and cross the water with complete confidence in strong winds. The water surface in Chicken Bay usually remains very shallow; further downwind, a headland partially encloses the bay, which gives a feeling of safety and makes drifting impossible in principle. A rescue service is of course also available for guests at the centres. So is Chicken Bay always easy? Not quite, because in July and August there are sometimes days with over 30 knots.
The surf centres at Chicken Bay are well stocked and have equipment for all surfing conditions. The training courses are a dream, given the standing water, the fine white sand underfoot and the crystal-clear sea. The surf centres are set up in such a way that even landlubbers can stay in sheltered areas to watch the action in Chicken Bay - bars, restaurants and showers are also available.
Experienced windsurfers will find great conditions outside the standing area, with flat to slightly choppy water depending on the wind strength.
4. secret spot
35.4291, 27.1216
Away from the main spots, there is another somewhat hidden spot at Nikoliou O Kolpos Beach, halfway from Afiartis to the windward spot, directly behind the airport runway. A dirt road leads to the rocky coast. The entrance is on the right-hand side of the bay via some small rocks or on the left-hand side via a rocky staircase into a sheltered bay with pebbles and a rocky plateau in front. Shoes are not absolutely necessary here - but not a mistake either!
There is no infrastructure on the beach. The wind blows offshore and is very gusty, but conjures up the best flat water for heating and freestyling, as the gusts are long and strong. The spot is worth a detour, usually in stronger winds. What you should know, however, is that unlike the main spots, there is no rescue service here. If your equipment breaks, you will drift straight towards Egypt.
5. windward spot
35.4300, 27.1106
The so-called windward spot with Agrilaopotamos beach is located on the south-western cape, around three kilometres from Afiartis. It is a small bay with a very fine sandy beach and turquoise water, with a standing area of around ten to 15 metres.
The wind tends to come in sideonshore from the right with thermals from the WNW and then more sideshore with Meltemi from the northwest. At twelve to 25 knots, the water is still quite flat, with small chop at best, and the first 150 metres are still in the wind cover and are therefore more gusty. Small waves occasionally occur on the reef, but they rarely have the character of surf. When the Meltemi blows through for a few days, swell to very moderate surf waves of up to 1.5 metres in height sometimes occur, which can be used for jumps and freestyle tricks. The reef is full of sea urchins and sharp, but has two passages that are easy to recognise and safe to cross.
Outside the reef, there are long swells that invite you to heat up and jump. The wind is less gusty than on the leeward side and usually three to eight knots weaker. So if the wind on the leeward side of the island, in Devil's Bay and the like, becomes unrideably strong, the windward spot is a good place to avoid. There is the Naish Greatdayz water sports centre at the spot, which focuses on kitesurfing and wingsurfing but also has the latest windsurfing equipment from Naish, as well as a tavern and some flats. There is also a car park on the road. As kitesurfing is prohibited on the leeward side of the island, this is the hotspot of the kitesurfing scene.
Area information Karpathos
Journey
There are two ways to get to Karpathos: either by plane, in the summer months many charter flights are offered directly to Karpathos from Central European airports. The advantage: you can be there in just under three hours and the local transfer to the windsurfing spots around Afiartis takes just ten minutes.
You can also arrive by campervan. The ferries from Ancona or Venice to Patras are ideal, e.g. with Anek or Minoan Lines. You can cross to Karpathos from Piraeus, offers are available from Bluestar Ferries, faehren.de and Seajets
Living & Camping
There are numerous accommodation options around Afiartis on the well-known online booking platforms. If you are looking for all-inclusive offers, you should definitely also check out the offers from surf tour operators:
There is no campsite on Karpathos. Wild camping is officially prohibited, as everywhere in Greece, but is still tolerated in some places on Karpathos. As long as you follow a few rules that should be self-evident: Don't set up as if it were your home, don't leave any rubbish behind and support the neighbouring tavernas by going there to eat and not just to use the loo.
Wind & Weather
The ideal time to visit Karpathos is during the summer months, with the best wind season between May and September. This is when a heat low forms to the east over Asia Minor and the Near and Middle East, which constantly sucks in air - creating the famous Meltemi. It gives Greece a bright blue sky with clear air. The Meltemi reaches its peak in July and August, when the wind probability on Karpathos is around 90 per cent. On Karpathos, the island's location from north to south and the high mountains in the north, which run out to the south and thus strengthen the wind from the northwest through a guardrail effect, further intensify the wind. The Meltemi usually blows day and night at a force of 18-35 knots in high summer, but absolute storm days with 40 knots and more can also occur - small sails still belong in your luggage here. In the low season until June and from September onwards, the Meltemi is often more moderate. Should the Meltemi fail to materialise, there is a reliable thermal from west to west-northwest with 12-20 knots in the south of Karpathos, but it is gusty and usually does not blow all day.
The climate on Karpathos is Mediterranean, with hot, sunny and windy summers in which it does not rain. Due to the long summer drought and the wind, the landscape is then parched.
The air temperature in summer ranges between 25-35 degrees. The sea is as low as 20 degrees in the low season and the water temperature rises to 27 degrees in high summer. Then you can surf here in shorts or shorties.
Surf stations
Alternative programme
Menetes is one of the most popular destinations on Karpathos. The village itself has less than 500 inhabitants. The picturesque village is easy to reach and can be easily explored on foot. Traditional music and food attract numerous tourists.
Pyles is located in the south-west of Karpathos and has around 400 inhabitants. The village attracts numerous tourists from all over the world with its church of the Holy Cross with various icons and an agricultural museum. Many hiking enthusiasts come here to discover the Flaskia gorge to the Lastos plain.
There are also many beautiful beaches to explore. We recommend a boat trip to the neighbouring island of Saria from Diafani. In addition to several inviting swimming stops, the natural landscape and some historical relics to be seen are impressive. If you are looking for MTB tours, you should enquire at the ION Club in Gun Bay.
Good to know
The heat in midsummer can be intense, especially when the Meltemi takes a break. Appropriate sun protection is essential on land and on the water.
