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The iconic wind turbines and green fields of Schleswig-Holstein pass me by. I think back to an experience a few years ago, when the PWA tour stop on Tenerife had just finished and the Canary Islands tour was complete. While packing, one of the Canarians called out to me with a slightly sardonic grin: "See you on cold and rainy Sylt". There were also a few long faces among the Hawaiianos. The prospect of travelling to the north German island was not met with enthusiasm by all flip-flop wearers.
As I sit in my bus on the car train to Sylt, these memories pass me by and I ask myself why this is actually the case. Sure, I've experienced the rain and the cold in a wetsuit on the beach while waiting for my heat. But I've also experienced creamy sideshore conditions, glassy wave riding sessions that are otherwise only known from the Atlantic and bike rides through picturesque dunes. We always have a great time at the World Cup on Sylt.
Well-known, newly discovered
I'm looking forward to the coming weekend. It's the first time I've ever travelled to the island to surf without a competition. Time to try out different spots, look for waves and rediscover the island. A strong south-westerly storm promises good conditions for the coming days.
When I look over the dyke in Westerland, I can hardly believe my eyes because everything looks so different. It takes me a moment to realise that it's just the usual tents and a few thousand people that are missing. Apart from that, everything is the same as always: a few blonde beach guests with wine spritzers stroll past and the shore break shows the power for which it is world-famous. A surfer gives me a tip that the obstructive groynes in Wenningstedt have recently been removed from the water and you can now surf right up to the beach without any worries. Great! The groynes had already cost me a fin or two and the idea of playing in the waves without a care in the world feels good.
Wave playground or shallow water laboratory - Sylt has it all
Less than half an hour later, I set up my equipment in Wenningstedt full of anticipation. As I walk past the Südkap Surfing School packed full of equipment, a few familiar faces grin at me. We know each other. The guys are happy to be visited at their spot: "See you on the water!" Unfortunately, this is not the case in many places in the world and as a tourist you sometimes get the odd nasty look from the locals. On the water, it quickly becomes clear why you can be so relaxed here as a local: Waves crashing onto the wide sandy beach as far as the eye can see, an endless playground and just one windsurfer on the water.
Sideonshore conditions with head-high waves allow us to have fun for hours until the day comes to an end with a picturesque sunset. And even though the shorebreak smashes me like a steamroller a few times, I'm happy to be able to take my equipment home again in one piece.
The next day promises the best shallow water conditions in the north of the island with the right tide level in the morning. The Ellenbogen is picturesque dunes dotted with sheep and laboratory conditions with shallow water - including a standing area. As I do my laps there in the morning light and the Sylt ferry to Rømø chugs through the postcard ambience on the horizon, I can't help but feel happy: how beautiful northern Germany is!
The weekend flies by. The different spots and different tides bring new challenges, but also make every session - whether in the waves or in flat water - unique.
After so many hours on the water, I'm almost glad that I "only" have to sit at my desk again the following week to rest my tired body.
Sylt is always somehow forgotten on the list of travel destinations. The image in the minds of the surfing community is characterised by the World Cup - where the riders naturally can't choose their spot and have to go out in difficult conditions. Yet Sylt has so much more to offer.
The windsurfing spots on Sylt
1) King's harbour
The most northerly point in Germany, the Ellenbogen, promises fun for the whole surfing family. The large area is a nature and bird sanctuary and therefore surfing is only permitted in the designated areas. The wind window is large, with west to south and easterly wind directions being the most constant. North winds are also possible, although they are a little gusty over the dunes. You will usually find great smooth flat water conditions here, which will make everyone happy, from intermediates to freestyle pros. However, the right timing is essential here, as the water is only really deep enough two to three hours before and after high tide. When the water is running out, you have to watch out for the currents, as the North Sea takes back its water with usually underestimated force. Otherwise, you can learn everything a surfer's heart desires here in the standing area against a picturesque backdrop, from your first beach start to race jibe or kono. The local kite and surf school offers beginner courses with training material. Keyword "kiting": there are plenty of kites in the sky here, but there are designated windsurfing and kitesurfing zones.
On the way to List, turn left towards Ellenbogen. At the entrance to Ellenbogen itself there is a ticket office where you have to pay a few euros to enter the nature reserve. There is also a windsurfing school and car park at the spot. Camping is not permitted.
2) Cunning
Not far from the Königshafen harbour, you can also get out on the water in List. However, the only advantage of this spot is that you can get out on the water here regardless of the tide. You can start north of the ferry terminal, where the ferries to and from Rømø dock. There is also a surf school, Wassersport Sylt, which is open from May to September and mainly trains beginners and intermediates. Apart from full offshore SW winds, any wind direction is possible here, but NW and E to SE are the best. Easterly winds bring small chops that can be used for small jumps, otherwise the water remains quite smooth. At high tide, it quickly gets deep here, and in combination with the sometimes very strong tidal current, List is not a spot for intermediates. There is a standing area at low tide.
3) Wenningstedt
In terms of conditions, Wenningstedt is similar to Westerland, but the beach is orientated a few degrees more W-E. Access is via the wide sandy beach and recently there are no longer any stone groynes in the water to worry about.
If the conditions are moderate, a green or yellow flag is displayed on the lifeguard station and you are not allowed to windsurf in the designated bathing area. On days with larger waves, however, this is no longer the case, as the red flag then flies for bathers and you can go on the water anywhere on the beach without restriction.
Ideal wind directions in Wenningstedt are from SSW to WSW, coming sideshore to sideonshore from the left. WNW to NW is flat onshore and not recommended, north wind can then again provide nice conditions with wind from the right. The waves change greatly depending on the tide, just like in Westerland. Bump & jump at low tide grows into a massive wave within a few hours, and this is only due to the rising water. However, south-westerly locations with around 25 knots and a swell of around 1.5 metres offer some of the best days that Germany's beaches have to offer. Then you can fire yourself into the air over fat ramps and work the powerful wave lips frontside. The current is always noticeable here too. In moderate conditions and at low tide, even less experienced wave riders can have fun, but at high tide and in storms, it's time to get down to business!
You can park directly at the spot, e.g. at the Twisters Wenningstedt car park. The only drawback: in summer, the beach and car park are sometimes packed!
4) Munkmarsch
North of Keitum, Munkmarsch is home to what is said to be the world's first windsurfing school run by Calle Schmidt, who is still actively involved at the age of 80. The spot is particularly popular with intermediates and flat water fans, who find ideal practice conditions there with wind directions from south to east to north. Munkmarsch is also tide-dependent, with enough water under the fin around 2.5 hours before and after high tide. Due to the large standing area, surfing here is quite safe, especially in onshore winds from easterly directions.
5) Westerland
Brandenburg beach is well-known and notorious among surfers. Tens of thousands of visitors and the "who's who" of the scene come to the Windsurf World Cup, which takes place every autumn, or the tour stops of the German Windsurf Cup. The spot is located directly on the beach promenade, which offers great opportunities for spectators, and not just during the World Cup. The spot is often dismissed as a "bad" windsurfing spot, with onshore winds, mast-breaking shorebreak and fin-eating stone groynes in the water. This is certainly true for W to NW winds. But if it's blowing at 20 knots+ from S-SW or N-NNO, you can have a lot of fun here with sideshore winds.
The remains of the groynes on the beach, which are marked with yellow crosses, and the current cannot be ignored, but there are powerful rollers that allow all wave moves and provide plenty of airtime on the way out. At low tide, the shorebreak and wave height on the shore remain moderate, but the sandbank in front of the shore is an official breaker. As the water level rises, the sets come through to the shore, the shorebreak can become martial at high tide and storms and is then only fun for experienced surfers. There are several car parks directly behind the dyke, ranging from free to a maximum daily rate of 18 euros, depending on the season. In addition, the visitor's tax is checked at the beach crossing until 6 pm. Guest passes are available either from the accommodation or at the ticket office.
6) Rantum East
The area south of the Rantum basin on the east side of Sylt is mainly used for windsurfing training - and for good reason. Although the atmosphere here is not one of the most beautiful on Sylt, there is a beautiful flat water area south of the small harbour for southerly to easterly wind directions. The entrance south of the small pier should be made with shoes, as there are some stones, shells and pile remains in the water. The water is very smooth in the shore area, so be careful of the rows of piles, which often hide just below the surface at high tide. Further out, the water becomes deeper and you have enough space for relaxed rides over shallow water. Here, too, you should make your way home in good time, as the spot is also only accessible around 2.5 hours before and after high tide. If you want to get ashore too late, you can expect a long walk in the mud.
7) K4
K4 is located not far north of Hörnum. You can park at Bunker Hill, from here it's a short walk with your equipment to the beautiful beach lined with dunes. It doesn't get as crowded here as in Westerland, Wenningstedt or Hörnum, there are no annoying groynes in the water. A good two hours before and after low tide, a sandbank in front of the beach is uncovered. Between the beach and the sandbank, even climbers can practise safely in the smooth water. When the tide comes in, the picture changes, the waves get bigger, K4 turns into a solid wave spot with quite hollow breaking waves on the sandbank and a juicy current. For wave sessions, the wind should be blowing from S-SW or N-NW and therefore side- to sideonshore.
8) Seagull's nest
Two kilometres north of Hörnum Ost there is a cream spot - named after the nearby "Möwennest" youth hostel - which offers cream conditions at low tide and with an easterly wind. An offshore sandbank then dries out and allows you to take shots to leeward of the sandbank in the shallow water. The wind then blows extremely consistently and you may be able to overlook the fact that you have to share this spot with numerous kiters and that car parking spaces are virtually non-existent. You should wear shoes here, there are numerous mussel beds in the water!
9) Hörnum East
What many people don't realise: The spot in Hörnum on the east side is the area that attracts the most windsurfers to the water every day. Here you will find conditions for young and old, regardless of the tide. At low tide there is a standing area, but at high tide it becomes too deep to stand. The islands of Amrum and Föhr also protect the bay from large swells during westerly storms and thus offer a retreat for freeriders and freestylers. East winds are free and a little choppy, with S and N winds it is perfectly sideshore, wonderfully smooth and SW and NW also work excellently. Big plus point: the spot is within walking distance of the dune campsite and the local South Cape surf school offers beginner and intermediate courses as well as foil courses and catamaran and dinghy sailing.
10) Hörnum South
South of the tetrapod shore defences is a rather unknown wave spot: WNW to NW winds push waves around a small cape, where you can have fun with wind from the right in clean and comparatively moderate waves - without annoying groynes and with only a small shore break. Outgoing water is ideal, then the current works against the wind. When the water is rising, however, you are fighting a losing battle. Further towards the southern tip of Sylt, known as "Cape Horn", you will find your luck with an SE wind: moderate, up to head-high surf with wind from the left, plenty of space and no obstacles in the water are worth a visit. Rising water works against the wind and is therefore recommended. The walk through the dunes is definitely worth it in view of the fantastic ambience.
Area information Sylt
Journey
Sylt can be reached from Niebüll via two different train providers - with Deutsche Bahn ( www.syltshuttle.de ) and the blue car train ( www.autozug-sylt.de ). Motorhomes are no longer transported due to increased damage to roof hatches etc. There is a special price for caravans up to ten metres in length with a booking confirmation from a Sylt campsite. Vehicles that are too high or too heavy and motorhomes must use the ferry from the neighbouring island of Rømø ( www.syltfaehre.de ). Reservations are worthwhile - especially for the ferry - particularly during holiday periods.
Living & Camping
It cannot be denied that Sylt is considered elitist, but the accommodation on offer ranges from youth hostels to villas. Booking is a must, especially in the high season and during the World Cup. Sylt has plenty of campsites for families.
The best-known campsite among surfers is "Dünencamping Westerland" ( www.duenencamping-westerland.de ), which is located south of the aquarium, directly in the dunes.
The Wenningstedt-Braderup campsite ( www.campingplatz.wenningstedt.de ) also offers plenty of pitches, perhaps a little less picturesque because there are no dunes, but not far from the beach either. The Wenningstedt surf spot is just under two kilometres away.
From bed to board, you can walk to the campsite in Hörnum, which is also nicely situated in the dunes ( www.hoernum.de/buchen/camping )
Other campsites in the area are:
- Rantum: www.camping-rantum.de
- Westerland: www.campingplatz-suedhoern.de
- Kampen: www.campen-in-kampen.de
- Sylt caravan: www.camping-sylt.de
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations
Sylt is undoubtedly one of the windiest places in northern Germany and boasts impressive wind statistics throughout the year. Even in midsummer, the chance of a gliding wind is still over 60 per cent. The hardened locals also surf in winter, of course, but for amateur surfers the season usually starts in April or May, when there are often persistent easterly wind phases that bring beautiful weather and make you forget the still fresh temperatures (water temperature at the beginning of May approx. 10-12 degrees), provided you bring a warm wetsuit and a bonnet. In midsummer, the water temperature rises to just under 20 degrees, so a 4/3 neo will do. Even in midsummer, northern Germany regularly comes under the influence of low pressure, so you have to be prepared for cool days.
Tides & Waves
The tidal range on Sylt is around two metres, so the tides play a major role. Some of the spots on the east side dry out at low tide. The aforementioned wind forecast sites often provide this data. As a rule, the periods from mid-tide to high tide at spots such as Wenningstedt or Westerland offer the biggest and most powerful waves on the shore. At low tide, it often remains more moderate on the shore, but the fun zone shifts to the offshore sandbanks.
Surfing stations
There are several established surf schools on Sylt where you can take courses, hire windsurfing equipment or SUP and wave riders for windless days.
Ellenbogen/Königshafen
- Camp One: www.campone-sylt.de
- Watersports Sylt: www.wassersport-sylt.de
Cunning
- Watersports Sylt: www.wassersport-sylt.de
Wenningstedt
- Southern Cape Surfing: www.suedkap-surfing.de
Munkmarsch
- Syltsurfing: www.syltsurfing.de
Westerland/Brandenburg beach
- Sunset Beach: www.sunsetbeach.de
Hörnum
- Southern Cape Surfing: www.suedkap-surfing.de
Surf shops
Replacement material is available from Salty Elements in Hörnum ( www.saltyelements.de )
Alternative programme
Surf and SUP boards are available for hire at all surf schools and courses are also offered. The best way to explore the island is by bike, there are numerous hire stations and beautiful trails. There's also plenty on offer for families, e.g. the Sylter Welle water park, the Naturgewalten adventure centre in List or the Sylt4Fun climbing and skating hall in Wenningstedt. And for those who prefer peace and quiet, there are almost 40 kilometres of sandy beach away from the hustle and bustle of Westerland.
Food & Drink
- Twisters: Burgers, Twisters, sweet potato fries and crepes with branches directly in Wenningstedt on the beach or in Paulstraße in Westerland.
- Creperie by the sea: The best crepes on the island are served on the promenade in Westerland. You'll receive a friendly welcome and sometimes meet the staff while surfing in the line-up.
- Shirobar: Top sushi can be found in Westerland. Unique atmosphere and friendly staff, but also a high price level.
Shady sides
Sylt is full in the high season, as you can tell from the car train. Accessibility for day trips is worse and more expensive than on the neighbouring island of Rømø, for example.
This article first appeared in surf 10/2020
