We have rediscovered these five spots for you:
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Ijsselmeer West sailing area
It must have been sometime in the summer of 1628: The sailing ship Batavia had just been completed at the shipyard in Lelystad - a so-called East Indiaman, which wrecked on a reef off the west coast of Australia just one year later on its first voyage. The subsequent mutiny among the castaways and the subsequent rescue and execution of the mutineers made the Batavia famous - or rather infamous.
It must have been around this time that I dragged surfing equipment to the water opposite Lelystad in Enkhuizen for the first time and set sail, into the Ijsselmeer to be precise - which isn't actually a sea, but just a diked-off part of the North Sea.
The year is 2023, and the Batavia is once again moored off Lelystad. Okay, not the real one - its remains lie in Geraldton, Western Australia, partly in the museum and partly on the seabed - but the replica, which was built as faithfully as possible in Lelystad between 1985 and 1995 and, after a trip to Australia (this time without reef contact), now serves as the centrepiece of a museum that also deals with the trade of the East India Company and the wealth of the Netherlands from world trade at the time.
And I also drag my surf equipment to the water again in Enkhuizen. A place that gives you an idea of how rich the Netherlands and especially the towns that profited from trade must have been. "Back to the roots", so to speak - back to the beginnings of my surfing career. I've already been wrecked several times on Australian reefs, but somehow I'm still drawn back to the origins.
The largest inland lake in the Netherlands
Although there are no reefs in the Ijsselmeer, the sandbanks and partially shallow water in the shore area pose a similar danger to sailors and the Finns in particular. Particularly in autumn and winter, when the water level of the Ijsselmeer is lowered, caution is advised, especially as the water is relatively murky and the shallows can be recognised by the breaking waves. However, the spots offer perfect conditions for almost every skill level, especially in northerly and easterly wind conditions, which seem to be becoming increasingly common.
The Ijsselmeer is the largest inland lake in the Netherlands and was only created in 1932 by dyking. In the north it is separated from the North Sea by the Afsluitdijk and in the south-west by the Houtribdijk from the Markermeer, on which Amsterdam is also located. Thanks to the dykes and shallow water, the sheltered Ijsselmeer has developed into a popular and safe water sports area.
Rediscovering the west coast of the IJsselmeer
Many windsurfers know the east side with spots such as Makkum, Hindeloopen and Stavoren - the west side, on the other hand, is probably a new discovery for many. Or, as in my case, a rediscovery. I ask myself why I haven't been here for so long. There is plenty of space on the water and even the obligatory walk with longer slalom fins is made up for by the consistently good infrastructure at the spots.
In general, there is a very relaxed atmosphere on and around the water, which can also be found in the villages; nothing seems hectic or crowded here. It is probably no coincidence that in tranquil Medemblik it is more sailors than windsurfers who sit in the cafés and enjoy the local beer or other Dutch specialities. The harbours are busy with boats of all sizes - the sound of the wind in the shrouds of the masts provides reliable information as to whether it is worth a look over the dyke for the windsurfer or which sail size is recommended.
Over an after-work beer in the fading light on the dyke, I see myself in my mind's eye after my first day of surfing - and in the haze behind me, it almost looks like an old sailing ship.
The best windsurfing spots on the western Ijsselmeer
1. medemblik
To the south of the Dutch Sailing Association's Olympic base there are car parks, toilets and a café. Access is via sand and shells, so shoes are recommended. The left-hand area, demarcated by yellow buoys, is a nature reserve and is prohibited under penalty of a fine. Please also note.
The standing area extends to around 300 metres from the beach, with sandbanks in the first third and it is very shallow in places. As a rule of thumb, caution is advised where the waves break.
The best wind directions are from north to east to south. In onshore north-easterly winds, a half-wind to Andijk is a good challenge. With north to east winds, the short, steep waves typical of the IJsselmeer can quickly form for bumpand-jump conditions.
Important: The Allianz Regatta, the largest Dutch sailing event, comparable to Kiel Week, takes place in Medemblik from the end of May to the beginning of June. This means that not only is the accommodation full, but the water and beach are also very crowded.
2. andijk
The small beach is located near the marina, directly in front of the village of Kerkbuurt, with a lawn for rigging, sanitary facilities and free parking. Unlike in Medemblik, the ground here is sandy, without shells. The standing area is around 350 metres wide, before the harbour entrance it gets deep. Please watch out for shipping traffic. If the wind is blowing from the west, the harbour remains relatively shallow; if the wind is blowing from the north, a steep wind wave quickly develops, as in Medemblik.
3 Enkhuizen
On the north side of the town of Enkhuizen there is a small beach with a lawn for rigging and a free car park. There is a Reddingsbrigade (Dutch DLRG) station, but there were no sanitary facilities at the time of our visit as the café and the neighbouring campsite were closed. The standing area here is also relatively large at 300 metres wide and the ground is sandy.
It blows onshore from north-easterly directions, and here too it is amazing how quickly the infamous Ijsselmeer wave builds up and bump-and-jump conditions are the order of the day. The best conditions for beginners and intermediates are sideshore winds from the north-west or south-east to south with smooth water. With long slalom fins, walking is the order of the day from time to time.
4th Trintelhafen
Definitely an unusual surf spot. The Trintelhafen spot is more or less just a car park on the Houtribdijk, the connecting dyke between Lelystad and Enkhuizen, where even the local café "Checkpoint Charlie" describes itself as being in the outback.
On the north side of the car park, you only have to carry your gear a few metres over the dyke to the water. There you have to watch out for the taut fishing nets, but there is more than enough water available. Almost any wind direction works here - only in westerly winds does the dyke in the shore area provide a little wind cover. In contrast to the other spots, it gets deep relatively quickly. When the café is open, sanitary facilities are also available.
5 Lelystad
Right at the beginning of the dyke between the Ijsselmeer and Markermeer is a small stretch of beach where you can surf on the Markermeer, i.e. the western water surface. Watersportstrand Bataviastrand or Hoekipa Dijk is the name of the beach. Although there is a certain similarity in the name, the surf spot has little to do with Hookipa. However, it is the best option for catching onshore winds with some bump-and-jump conditions when the wind blows from the west. The sandy beach drops off relatively quickly and the standing area here is smaller than at the other spots.
Spot info Ijsselmeer
Journey
It takes around three hours to get there from the Ruhr area, taking into account the speed limit of 100 km/h in Holland between 7.00 am and 7.00 pm. You'd better keep this in mind, as the fines in the Netherlands are steep. From the Cologne area, you have to add just under an hour to the journey time - you don't need any longer than that to get to spots like Hindeloopen on the east side of the IJsselmeer.
Living and camping
Wild camping is prohibited and also subject to heavy fines. There are a number of campsites:
Alternatively, there are a number of holiday flats and hotels in the area, for example via Airbnb or in the Bungalowpark Zuiderzee .
Surf schools and shops
You won't find any surf shops in this region, but there are a few sail shops in Medemblik. So it's better to bring your own equipment and a spare. In Enkhuizen there is a Surf school Toms Beach & Surf .
Wind & weather, neoprene recommendation
Holland, and therefore also the western Ijsselmeer, is essentially located in a westerly wind zone, with low-pressure areas over Great Britain providing ventilation from a mostly south-westerly direction. However, recent years have shown that longer periods with winds from the north or east are becoming increasingly common, especially during the warmer months of the year. And it is precisely then that the west coast of the Ijsselmeer comes into its own, while on the opposite side, for example in Hindeloopen, the wind blows offshore and gusts. The shallow Ijsselmeer warms up quickly, so you can often get the shorty out in summer. In spring and autumn, however, a warm 4/3 or 5/3 neo is recommended, depending on the weather conditions. Shoes are definitely recommended, as you can't see where you're going in murky water.
Good to know
The spots are basically suitable for almost every level. From beginners who want to learn how to start on the beach, like the author of this guide, to ambitious surfers who enjoy bump and jump or challenging conditions with choppy waves and small jump ramps.
There are usually lots of kitesurfers on the water at the spots, so there is peaceful coexistence and enough space for everyone! You should be careful with the sandbanks to avoid unpleasant skidding falls with consequences for people and/or equipment.
The infrastructure is very good at almost all spots and the distances between the spots are relatively short. It's worth taking a look over the dyke at various spots.
Alternative programme
In Lelystad, the museum shipyard, where in addition to the Batavia mentioned at the beginning, many other historic ships are rebuilt or restored in the traditional way, offers a very interesting insight into earlier times and craftsmanship.
In addition to many museums in the town, Medemblik also has the so-called Stoomtram, a traditional steam locomotive that can be used for trips to Hoorn if you want to feel like Luke the Engine Driver. Medemblik Castle, which dates back to the 13th century, is also interesting for children with its museum and is beautifully situated on the Ijsselmeer.
The Zuiderzee Museum in Enkhuizen gives an impression of the town's former importance as a trading harbour and also of the history of the artificial IJsselmeer, which was created by diking. There is also an open-air museum with historical buildings and many interesting sights.
