Text: Jono Dunnett
Who knows if it will go well! The windsurfing trip around Japan wasn't even my idea. A reader of my book who lives in Japan In The Balance contacted me and said: "If you want to do a trip like Windsurfing Round Europe again, come to Japan!" What can I say - I let myself be carried away by the enthusiasm. His plan was for something with high media attention, which I'm not used to. But luckily that was scrapped and I went back to the method I know, which is based more on stealth, at least at first! At the same time, a friend from my past turned up. When Paul explained that he was now living on the beach in Japan and could pick me up from the airport in Tokyo, it was an invitation from the universe that I couldn't ignore. So I set about making the expedition a reality.
First I needed the right equipment: Unifibre and Loftsails supplied a set and I set about converting the board so that I could attach the luggage to the deck. Organising the trip to Japan with the almost 3.60 metre long board was a challenge - in the end it only worked out because I knew the right people at an airline (HERE is an interview about the preparations for the trip).
I also turned 50 this year. Physically, I'm in good shape, but for how much longer? Was it time to think about retirement or a job? I decided in favour of adventure, and I suspect it will be the better investment!
Should I think about retirement or a job? I have decided in favour of the adventure
The flight and pick-up in Tokyo went like clockwork and suddenly I was in Japan, in Onjuku, a small fishing and surfing town on the Chiba peninsula. I think even my old friend Paul and his family were surprised by my complete lack of cultural preparation! My hosts quickly taught me how to survive on my own in Japan: Be it contactless payments, or using GoogleMaps to find a konbini (grocery shop open 24 hours a day) where I could shop. After a few days of culture clash, I was ready - ready to start the adventure.
Start with obstacles
As a typhoon was approaching, I decided to train for a few days and then return to Paul and his family to get through the bad weather. Training day 1 was uneventful - the Pacific was kind. Day 2 was windy and rough. I headed for a prominent headland near Choshi where strong currents meet. It was a bumpy session, but all seemed well until I suddenly heard a loud bang! Something on my equipment had just stopped working. I stopped immediately and prevented my barrel, which contained all my belongings on the tail of the board, from being swept away by the waves just in time. I dragged myself almost two kilometres downwind back to the shore and called Paul because I knew I was in trouble.
I think people were surprised by my complete lack of cultural preparation
Paul's philosophy is that a problem is not a problem if there is a solution. He bought some carbon and epoxy and a few days later I was ready to set off on my journey around Japan with a reinforced barrel carrier for my barrel.
Jono Dunnett sets off - for real this time
This time I made it round the headland and continued on - which in retrospect turned out to be a mistake. The swell became so strong as we progressed that it was impossible to land on the beaches. So I needed a harbour and with the breeze getting weaker, it quickly became clear that I wouldn't reach the next one (Kashima) until well after sunset. Not good! It was well after sunset before the harbour came within reach. In the distance, I could make out a protective outer wall in the twilight that stretched far out to sea. The harbour I was heading for wasn't exactly a friendly entrance either. I realised that the west coast of Japan is heavily industrialised and often fortified: to protect it from the waves of the Pacific and from tsunamis. Waves crashed against the wall. I had no choice but to go round the pier, but I had hardly any light left. I rounded the end just after a ship had left. Maybe a pilot boat? Maybe they had seen a spot on their radar and would pick me up? Unlikely! At least the wind stuck with me, because with an even lighter breeze I would have had no chance of balancing on my narrow board in the dark. I followed the next wall and felt my way towards a gap that I knew was there but could barely see. A change in the swell told me it was time to turn - and I was in.
After this experience, I decided that more caution would be needed to avoid a Waterloo in the future. The problem was that there were very few safe and inviting places to stop along this stretch of coast. I was therefore always very nervous, especially when the swell was strong, because I feared that the wind might fall asleep. And paddling with the equipment is no fun when the waves are high!
Secrecy
At the beginning of the trip, I tried to get away from the harbours every day without being noticed. Of course, I expected to encounter the coastguard at some point, but if I could delay this until I had travelled a fair distance from the coast, the concerns or objections would perhaps be less - or so I calculated. Off the coast of the major harbours - beyond their outer walls - there was anonymity, but the reflected waves made for a chaotic and extremely unpleasant swell that stretched for many miles seaward.
Good will is a compensation for the lack of a common language
A few days with light winds and high waves gave me the opportunity to refine my paddling technique, but only a few miles were covered and I often had to paddle on my knees to avoid falling off the board. The week after saying goodbye to Paul and his family was therefore a challenge on the water - and lonely on land. Looking back, I know that my loneliness was probably due to the fact that I didn't yet have the physical appearance of a traveller. Because a few days later - sunburnt, bearded and more self-confident thanks to the miles I had travelled - I found it increasingly easy to meet people. Hiroshi Kitada - a famous sailor who I had contacted and asked for advice before my trip - stopped by to say hello. This not only made my day, but also my week perfect! I now realise that the Japanese respect the privacy of others, but once the ice is broken, they are curious and friendly. Good will compensates for the lack of a common language. Easy communication is therefore possible, and technology (Google Translate) helps to fill in the gaps.
The Japanese respect the privacy of others, but once the ice is broken, they are curious and friendly
Ghost scenery in front of Fukishima
Industrial areas and power stations forced me to make further detours at sea over the following days. I sailed past Fukushima Daiichi, the nuclear power plant where a meltdown had occurred after the 2011 tsunami. On a European coast, such a site would certainly be patrolled. After four kilometres at sea, I saw no one and landed in the nearby fishing port of Ukedo. The harbour authorities were surprised to see me here and were obviously not sure whether I was allowed to be here at all. They probably don't get many visitors. Behind the harbour, a contaminated landscape is being dug in to make it "safe". I saw more excavators than people. Fukushima is a spooky place where the birds sing but human life will not return for a long time yet.
Then, finally, I was able to enjoy a series of calm days. The Pacific turned more pacific and lived up to its name "Silent Ocean". I soon reached the outskirts of Sendai, where I landed at a sailing centre. I had already encountered a thousand fishing boats, but this was the first time I had seen sails. Geographically speaking, reaching Sendai was the end of the first stage. The long and mostly straight coastline from Tokyo northwards is now complete. This reassures me, because I have the feeling that I have now started the journey properly. Now I can pull into a fishing harbour with the feeling that I've earned the right to be there! If the wind comes up, I'll cross Sendia Bay today and get to a coastline of islands and coves. I'll still tell people I'm going to Hokkaido, but maybe I'll also reveal my intention to circumnavigate the whole of Japan.
If you want to follow Jono Dunnett on his adventures, you can find more photos and a blog on his website. Of course, you can also read about his experiences at regular intervals on the surf website.
