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The first rays of sunshine climb tentatively over the slopes of the Columbia River and bathe the flag with the Stars and Stripes in the garden in soft morning light. On the veranda, half-empty, deposit-free beer cans, silent witnesses to a house party the night before. In the background, a trailer park like something out of a Hollywood film, a GMC truck on the driveway from which the A-Team could get out at any time.
Just as I'm wondering whether my first morning in the land of opportunity could be any more clichéd, Bryan turns the corner in an oversized pick-up truck, accompanied by loud hip-hop. With a baseball cap on his head and a Starbucks coffee in his hand, he barks out the first "Hey buddy, how are you doing?" of the day. I am delighted. Right at the start of the trip, I can already tick off the first item on my holiday agenda, "experience an unadulterated American moment".
"All good in da hood"
The river has a seemingly magical attraction, as if it has attached bungee cords to the backs of its disciples, which pull everyone back faster the further they try to move away. A sticker on Bryan's car probably best describes where this elasticated effect comes from: "All good in da hood". What I interpret as an empty phrase is, according to Bryan, "a fact". A look in the boot of his car reveals the truth: In addition to waveboards and small sails, there's a mountain bike and a pair of skis, and in the cars of the other flatmates there are also golf clubs, rafts, SUPs and fishing sets.
The Hood is a play paradise for post-pubescent boys, nestled in an impressive landscape. The only problem is that most of the toys often have to stay in the boot, as guaranteed windsurfing sessions at the Hatch, the Wall or in Arlington come up almost every day. All good in da hood - rarely have I had to agree with a sticker more.
Columbia River is like Lake Garda - only better
In the summer months, the area around Hood River is a favourite spot for windsurfers from all over the country. Surfing equipment is piled up on car roofs, windsurfing posters decorate the walls of McDonalds and after exit 63 on the motorway, you come straight to the headquarters of DaKine, Sailworks (sails) and NoLimitz (masts). Windsurfing is so present around the River Gorge that people don't even talk about it. You just do it like you play football in Germany. You live it without having to resort to the washed-out concept of lifestyle. A kind of understatement that perhaps only a river can convey so subtly.
However, if you want to make a comparison, you are most likely to find it in northern Italy. Because the colourful evening hustle and bustle in Hood River and its basin location amidst the steep river slopes inevitably reminds you of Torbole on Lake Garda, even though the Columbia River is more like an American update of the Alpine lake: everything is bigger, everything is more comfortable. The Fiat 500 becomes a Dodge pick-up, parking scarcity becomes a foreign word, the pizzeria becomes Pizza Hut, Monte Baldo (2218 metres) becomes Mount Hood (3425 metres), the 6.5 becomes a 4.0, choppy waves become breaking ramps and - thanks to the current - running upstream becomes child's play.
The wind is forced through narrow valleys and amplified
Only the operating system on which everything runs has been adopted: A thermal wind, generated by the temperature differences between the cool Pacific coast and the warm Oregon hinterland, is forced through narrow valleys and turns up the heat. Surf spots for all skill levels are lined up close together over a length of around 100 miles, each surrounded by impressive nature. Lush shades of green dominate from Cascade Looks to Hood River, while bizarre canyons characterise the landscape to the east of the Dallas, creating a real Karl May atmosphere. On clear days, the summit of Mount Hood shines bright white above the southern river slopes. Even the never-ending goods trains rushing along the banks over creaking steel bridges and the long cargo ships (called killer barges) pushing their way inland on the Columbia River seem to have been added to the overall picture by a landscape architect.
If you want to, you can windsurf, ski, go wine tasting and drive a car on the River of Rivers in one day, which you could never afford to fill up with petrol in Germany - provided you can deal with the side effects, because the elastic stretches faster than you think...
The best windsurfing spots on the Columbia River
1) Rooster Rocks
Located about 70 kilometres west of Hood River. Access via Interstate 84, take exit 25 and follow the signs.
There's flat water on the sides here, then a little chop towards the middle of the river. Rooster Rocks works in rare easterly winds, which get very strong here. The entry is easy, but due to the strong current with the wind it is recommended for surfers who can safely waterstart and jibe. Parking at the spot for 3 dollars, therefore short distances. It takes longer to walk to the sandbank upwind, where there is perfectly flat water. Sanitary facilities, picnic area and nude beach on site.
2) Stevenson
Approach via Highway 14, 30 kilometres west of Hood River, 500 metres south of the highway to Bobs Beach on Cascade Avenue. If it is scorching hot and windless in Hood River, there is a moderate westerly wind here that blows against the current and makes life easy for climbers. East winds are usually stronger and create small chop diagonally from the front. However, the strong current then moves with the wind, which doesn't have to bother people who are confident with water starts and can run upwind. Easy access, free parking, short distances, a meadow for rigging, sanitary facilities and a picnic area - this is a great place for freeriders and trick riders.
3) The Hatchery
Approach via Highway 14, from Hood River over the bridge and five kilometres further west, then follow the signs. Westerly winds are very strong here, so don't forget small sails. There is a strong current, but it pushes against the wind, making it rather harmless and creating a steep wave diagonally from the front. There is a "jibe corner" on the shore with perfectly flat water and a stadium atmosphere. The entrance is over rocks, so it is recommended for experienced windsurfers. Short distances if you have an annual pass, otherwise you can park for free on the other side of the road. You can set up on a gravel car park.
4) Salmon River sandbank
Take Highway 14, cross the bridge from Hood River and head west for two kilometres. Shortly after the railway bridge over the Salmon River, you will find a small parking bay between the road and the river.
The westerly wind here is usually moderate against a light and harmless current, which is why the spot is also fun for intermediates. Behind the sandbank there is a short, mirror-smooth area for tricks and jibing, then a small wind wave towards the centre of the river. There is free parking next to the road, but you have to walk about 400 metres under the railway bridge to the mouth of the Salmon River. From there you can reach the sandbank in half a stroke, including a secluded sandy beach!
5) Eventside
Approach via Interstate 84, exit 63. 400 metres north, simply follow the signs. The westerly wind blows moderately over smooth water here, and further out there is harmless chop for jumping. As the current is hardly noticeable and you can get in without any problems, Eventside is certainly one of the easiest spots to surf in the Gorge. This is another reason why there is a surf centre here. It's a short walk to the water and you pay 3 dollars to park. A large meadow for rigging, sanitary facilities and a snack bar - everything is just right here!
6) Bingen Marina
Take Highway 14 to follow the "Bingen Marina" sign five kilometres east of the Hood River Bridge in Bingen and continue towards the river. Turn left after the railway crossing, after 500 metres the "Sailpark", a large meadow, appears on the right. Here you can rig up.
The westerly wind blows moderately to strongly, but there is still a large shallow water area near the shore. The chop becomes somewhat larger towards the centre of the river. Thanks to the easy entry and only a slight current against the wind, this is a spot that is absolutely safe for climbers! Free parking, short distances, large meadow and small, fine pebble beach.
7) Doug's Beach
Access via Highway 14, five kilometres east of Lyle, parking spaces appear between the road and the railway tracks on the river side. You then have to carry your equipment from the car park (5 dollars) about 400 metres to the entry point. There is a comparatively strong westerly wind here, so you should always take small sails with you. It is easy to get in, the current is quite weak and runs against the wind. A high, long swell wave builds up, which puts a big grin on the face of jump freaks. A picnic area and sanitary facilities are available.
8) Arlington
Located about 110 kilometres east of Hood River. Approach via Interstate 84, take exit 137 and drive under the motorway. Then continue in the direction of the large grain silo, behind which you will find the car park.
No, even a wave symbol would not have been a misprint: The westerly wind blows very strongly here at times, which, combined with the current running against the wind, creates steep, head-high and sometimes even breaking waves in the centre of the river. With your right foot in front, you can make big jumps, inspired by the gorge locals who regularly throw back-, push- and even double loops in front of you. You don't have to be a pro to surf here, but jibing and water starts are a must and getting over rocks and overcoming a small shore break, which rattles onto the beach here with a period of 0.5, is also part of the toolkit. On moderate days, less experienced surfers will also get their money's worth. Free parking and short distances, gravel car park with porta-potties.
9) The Wall
Approach via Highway 14, two kilometres east of Maryhill turn off onto a small side road that leads downhill to gravel parking spaces on the riverbank. Parking is free here and the paths to the water are short. The westerly wind is very strong and small sails are standard equipment. The current running against the wind is also very strong and gets stronger the closer you get to the dam upwind. On windy days, the combination of stormy winds and a strong, opposing current creates a high and steep wave, similar to Arlington, which is perfect for jumping. As the entry point is quite rocky, this spot is less suitable for freeride beginners.
General information Hood River/Columbia River Gorge
Wind and weather
Hot hinterland to the east, cold Pacific Ocean to the west - in the summer months, this constellation means that the inland sea breeze is channelled and accelerated in the approximately 130-kilometre-long canyon of the Columbia River. A small sail should always be in your luggage, especially in midsummer. The usual weather services hardly take the local effects into account, so you don't have to worry if the wind forecast looks like this wind guru map: sunshine, warm temperatures, westerly winds - it's going to be a stormy day!
Travelling time, climate and neoprene recommendations
The best wind yield is during the summer months of May to September with an average of 80 to 90 per cent gliding wind (>4 Bft.). Even in April and October, you can still get out on the water every other day on average. At the height of summer, a short-arm neo will do, with an average air temperature of 25 degrees, while in the off-season it can be a long-arm neo.
Dangers
The Columbia River is an important artery for American shipping. Accordingly, there are many large cargo ships travelling across the river. The blind spot of these barges is twice the length of the ship in the direction of travel. This means that a ship 100 metres long can no longer avoid objects less than 200 metres ahead. In addition, ships travelling in the direction of the river approach unexpectedly quickly. This must be taken into account at all times when surfing. However, if you keep a certain safe distance and surf close to the shore, you will find many safe surf spots on the Columbia River, as the current always pushes to windward, except in rare easterly winds. If the material breaks, you will at least drift on the spot, even in strong winds.
The water quality is generally okay, but as there are numerous aluminium smelters, power plants and fruit plantations along the Columbia River, the river water can also be polluted for short periods after heavy rainfall.
Travelling and material transport
About an hour's drive from Hood River is Portland/Oregon Airport (don't confuse it with Portland/Maine, otherwise you'll be in for a rude awakening when you land). Flights are available from all major airports from around 800 euros. US Airways and American Airlines, followed by Condor, offer the best value for money in terms of flight price and uncomplicated transport of windsurfing equipment.
Surf stations, hire & shops
There are plenty of surf shops in the Gorge and you can get a replacement anywhere if something breaks. Some shops also offer hire packages to take away, for example:
- Gorge Performance, 7400 SW Macadam Ave, Portland ( www.gorgeperformance.com )
- Windance Boardshop, 108 Hwy. 35, Hood River ( www.windance.com )
Accommodation
The Columbia River Gorge Hostel in Bingen is one of the cheapest alternatives with prices starting at 10 dollars/night. You have to put up with shared rooms, but it's easy to make friends with other windsurfers or backpackers.
At 25 dollars/night and upwards, overnight stays in one of the countless bed and breakfasts offer good value for money. You'll find what you're looking for in almost every little town along the river - just keep your eyes peeled for B&B signs on the walls of houses!
Prices for hotel rooms start at around $100/night, such as the Best Western in Hood River.
Camping
If you don't want to look for accommodation locally and also want to save some money, a campervan is a good choice. This is because the extra cost of a camper van compared to a normal hire car is quickly recouped in view of the rather expensive accommodation. Camping by the river is also very popular. There are a number of well-equipped campsites close to the river, for example in Stevenson, White Salmon, Bingen, Maryhill or Hood River. Despite the plethora of parking bays along the riverbanks, all fans of wild camping should therefore also make use of this official way of spending the night. The Columbia River flows through a beautiful landscape, and it should stay that way.
Food and drink
Those who manage to resist the temptation of the countless fast food chains are faced with an equally large number of first-class restaurants. In Hood River alone, there should be something for every taste: The "China Gorge" serves good, affordable Asian cuisine. Pizza fans should pay a visit to Andrews Pizza. If you want to enjoy home-brewed beer and a pub atmosphere after a hearty meal, you'll be happy at the Double Mountain Brewery. The Riverside Restaurant has a candlelit atmosphere and the best view of the river. The snack stand next to the Windance surf shop offers fast, inexpensive and delicious Thai food.
This article first appeared in surf 7/2013 and has been revised for this online version.
