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My journey to Guadeloupe began on a rickety ferry that took me across from the Isle of Wight to the British mainland in the middle of the night - along with thousands of mud-smeared festival-goers from the Isle of Wight Pop Festival that had just finished. I spent two hours sleeping on the floor of London's Heathrow Airport before my plane finally took off across the pond for the Caribbean. There, I wanted to join Slalom Worldcuppers Matteo Iachino and Tristan Algret to photograph the most beautiful places in the Caribbean island of Guadeloupe.
Eight hours later, the humid heat at Pointe-à-Pitre airport hits me like a hammer. Our "tour guide" Tristan, a real local, was already waiting for us: "Welcome to paradise!"
Guadeloupe - Europe's outpost
Guadeloupe is an archipelago consisting of a dozen or so islands. Seen from above, the two main islands give Guadeloupe the shape of a butterfly. The left wing, Basse Terre, is mountainous, covered in dense rainforest and characterised by a mighty volcano, the almost 1500 metre high La Souffrière. The right wing, Grande Terre, is much flatter and no less attractive with its beautiful sandy beaches and shallow lagoons.
I'm British, and of course I was looking forward to a cold beer after the long journey. However, it would have been rude to turn down Tristan's invitation to a welcome drink in the form of a ti-punch. White rum, lime, sugar cane syrup - the result is a drink that took my shoes off the first time I sipped it with its almost 50 revolutions. I mentioned to Tristan my plan to surf in front of the rocks at Pointe des Châteaux - an impressive rock formation that I had already identified as a possible photo backdrop during my online research.
Tristan was less than enthusiastic: "Too wild, too dangerous!". After two more Ti punches, he promised to at least think about it.
Land of the lagoons
After a sumptuous breakfast, Tristan guided us to Saint-Francois the next morning, one of his absolute favourite spots. Once there, I quickly realised why: a constant trade wind of 15 knots, a white sandy beach, palm trees and a lagoon that shone in all shades of blue. This must be windsurfing heaven! Matteo and Tristan spent a few hours gliding across the water in the fine company of sea turtles and stingrays with some local surfers - in shorts only, of course. I was allowed to take photos from one of the houseboats in the lagoon. If you invest 300 euros per night, you can treat yourself to a little luxury here.
This must be windsurfing heaven!
The following day, a new, palm-fringed spot also made my photographer's heart beat faster: the boys covered the few hundred metres from Le Gosier over a smooth flat water slope to the Îlet du Gosier offshore in the blink of an eye in the face of a full five forces of wind. To leeward of the lighthouse, the pair spotted a small wave over which they were not afraid to shoot metres into the air, even with slalom equipment.
Dream backdrop and dark history
Despite the persistent trade winds and the dreamlike scenery, we were drawn to Pointe-à-Pitre, the island's capital, in the afternoon. The Memorial ACTe is both a cultural museum and a memorial to the moving history of the slave trade. The combination of modern architecture, impressive original exhibits and new media provides an equally interesting and disturbing insight into the dark chapter of slavery, which was not officially ended in the French colonies until 1848.
The following days flew by - as they always do when you're in beautiful places. We surfed and photographed the spots around Sainte-Anne and in the north of Basse Terre. We also didn't miss a visit to the Reimonenq rum distillery. After a few more ti-punches, the decision was made. Off to Pointe des Châteaux! Well, I have to admit: Tristan was right - it was undulating and also a little dangerous given the wild shorebreak. But the photo backdrop and the knowledge that we were the first windsurfers in this beautiful part of the world made up for it in every way.
The best windsurfing spots in Guadeloupe
1) Le Gosier/La Datcha
You can start your windsurfing adventure on the fine white sandy beach of La Datcha near Le Gosier. There are also various hotels, apartments and restaurants on the beach - if you want to stay here or eat in a nice atmosphere after your surf session, you will quickly find what you are looking for. The spot works ideally with an east to south-easterly wind blowing sideshore from the left. A few hundred metres in front of the beach is the small Îlet du Gosier. The wind blows constantly and brings some chop. As sailing boats often anchor in the lagoon and swimmers and snorkellers often have fun in the bathtub water, a little caution is advised. To lee of the lighthouse, there is sometimes a swell running over a reef and inviting for jumping sessions.
2) Saint-Felix
Around two kilometres east of the village of Saint-Felix is an insider tip for anyone looking for a little more peace and quiet, even in the busy season: The main road N4 leads past a completely undeveloped stretch of beach, which can be reached using the corresponding coordinates (16.207096, -61.442705). The trade wind blows onshore here, so surfing is very safe. Speed runs along the palm-fringed beach are only disturbed by small chops. The same applies here: watch out for swimmers! A small jumping session is sometimes possible on the offshore reef.
3) Sainte-Anne
Sainte-Anne is one of the absolute windsurfing hotspots in Guadeloupe! The town itself is known for its sugar cane processing. You can't miss the spot, you can start at many places along the beach, e.g. upwind at the Base Nautique, where you can also hire windsurfing equipment, further downwind at the Freestyle School or around the Club Med. As there is a complete infrastructure of accommodation, surf centres, shops, restaurants and bars close to the spot, it's hardly surprising that there is a lot going on in Sainte-Anne. The great flat water conditions in the large lagoon are therefore shared with many kiters, sailors and other water sports enthusiasts. The Sainte-Anne lagoon is also protected from waves, so that intermediates and experts alike get their money's worth here. The few shallows can be easily identified thanks to the crystal-clear water. Wave fans can also have fun here, as the wind wave from the east discharges on the reef in front. At the "Calif" break, with sideonshore wind from the left and wave heights of between one and two metres, it is mainly jumps and backside wave rides that are on offer. A little further downwind, in front of Club Med, a clean but moderate wave breaks at the "La Digue" reef section, which regularly allows several frontside turns. Even if it gets quite crowded here, Sainte-Anne definitely makes up for it with its great combination of beach life, flat water and waves in the immediate vicinity.
4) Saint-François
If you're not just after flat water and are looking for a combination spot with a speed slope, chop and sometimes even surf, St. François is the place to be. The lagoon is a feast for the eyes - white sandy beach, palm trees and turquoise water, a combination like something out of a photo wallpaper. The start is to the east of the small harbour, where there is also a small water sports centre where you can hire beginner equipment and other water sports gear. The beach is also extremely popular with sunbathers, so it can get very crowded here. If you cruise through the smooth water towards the channel that runs through the reef, it becomes increasingly wavy. On days with swell or large wind waves, a moderate surf wave breaks on the outer reef, which is usually 1-1.5 metres high and invites you to ride it with wind from the left - provided you have large wave material.
5) Bas-Vent
Locals like Tristan Algret swear that this spot in the north of Basse Terre is the windiest spot in the whole of Guadeloupe. A slight northerly bend in the wind direction helps, as the wind between the mainland and the offshore Îlet Kahouanne is always a few knots stronger than at the spots on the south coast. If you want, you can rent a spot close to the Langely Resort Fort Royal and sheltered from the wind, and the best place to launch your board is upwind at the Plage du Grand Bas-Vent. Here, the wind ideally blows sideshore from the right; in strong winds or swells, shorebreak can occur. Outside, a noticeable wind wave allows a few jumps, the view back to the bright white sandy beach and the green hills is a feast for the eyes. When the wind gets a southerly kick, it gets gusty here. You can hire water sports equipment such as SUP boards, catamarans and some windsurfing equipment at the nearby Langley Resort.
6) Sainte-Rose
On the north coast of Basse Terre, Sainte-Rose is another beautiful spot that is less special because of its beaches and more because of its mangroves - the area is a nature reserve. You can start around the small harbour, and upwind numerous offshore islands efficiently protect the spot from waves - a dream for freeriding, racing and tricks. The wind here is generally not quite as strong as in Bas-Vent, but the spot still works well in easterly to south-easterly winds. All infrastructure such as accommodation and restaurants are available on site. With such a marvellous ambience, you should still keep an eye on the depth of the water when you're out on the water to avoid sinking your fin into the lagoons. Speaking of fins: a weed fin can also come in handy here.
Area information Guadeloupe
Journey
Guadeloupe can easily be reached from Europe within a day. Flight prices usually vary between 600 and 1000 euros, depending on the season. A stopover in Paris is the rule. We recommend booking a hire car. Firstly, because as a windsurfer you need to be flexible on the spot. Secondly, because there is far too much to discover in Guadeloupe to just stay at one spot. There is right-hand traffic and the roads are well developed.
Accommodation
Guadeloupe has a reputation for being elitist and expensive. This is partly true, especially in the high season between Christmas and February, when prices for accommodation and food can be considerable. However, especially in the early and late season, you can also find reasonably priced apartments, hotels or hostels via the well-known booking platforms and airbnb.de. We would recommend renting on the south or north-east coast of Grande Terre (e.g. around Sainte-François or Sainte-Anne), as most of the surf spots can be reached quickly by hire car.
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations
Due to its location close to the equator, the climate in Guadeloupe is subject to only minor fluctuations throughout the year. In midsummer, the average temperature is around 30 degrees, while in the winter months the thermometer doesn't exactly plummet to 28 degrees on average. The best time to visit for windsurfers is between December and June. From July onwards, the weather becomes increasingly unstable due to tropical low-pressure systems or even hurricanes that disrupt the trade wind system. The trade wind from the NE to SE blows very consistently and on average on almost 50 per cent of the days with gliding force.
Note: The printed wind statistics are from the airport in Pointe-à-Pitre, where the wind is often lighter than on the south coast. Locals like Tristan Algret therefore emphasise that the percentage figures given are rather underestimated - he puts the number of days with gliding winds at around 70 percent.
Important to know: Guadeloupe is not a strong wind area, usually the easterly trade wind blows at 12 to 20 knots. Strong wind days with 25 knots are the exception. You can confidently leave a long wetsuit at home; at a water temperature of 25 degrees in winter, board shorts or shorties are absolutely sufficient. You should definitely take sun protection accessories with you. Stones, coral or sea urchins can be found at some spots, so a pair of thin surf shoes is recommended.
Stations and hire
You shouldn't expect huge rental centres on Guadeloupe, but it can still make sense for flat water fans to travel here without their own equipment. Some rental equipment is available at the following centres - we still recommend checking the availability of equipment before you arrive:
- Bas-Vent: www.langleyhotels.eu/en/our-hotels/resort-fort-royal/
- Sainte-Anne: www.windsurfguadeloupe.net
Shops
You can get replacements for broken material here
Sainte-Anne
- Looka Surf: www.lookasurf.net
- Windy Sails: to be found on Facebook under "Windy Sails Voilerie"
Le Gosier
- Mr Good Surf: www.mistergoodsurf-legosier-971.fr
Alternative programme
Guadeloupe is the perfect destination to combine windsurfing and sightseeing - even non-surfers will get their money's worth here. The beaches are fantastic. Whether snorkelling, diving, SUPing, hiking, climbing or biking - all outdoor activities are possible on the island. A visit to Basse Terre, with its rainforests, waterfalls, hot springs and breathtaking natural landscapes, is an absolute must. A visit to the ACTe cultural museum in Pointe-à-Pitre is also worthwhile. Further tips can be found on the website of the tourism centre
Good to know
Book a hire car in good time, the supply is sometimes limited in the high season. Mosquitoes are an issue, mosquito repellent and mosquito nets are worthwhile purchases. Malaria protection, however, is not necessary. Sea urchins can be found in the water at some spots - always remove the stingers immediately, otherwise there is a risk of infection in warm water.
This spot guide first appeared in surf 11-12/2019
