“Welcome to the United States”. NOT!

I couldn’t have picked a worse time to arrive into the USA, as the terrorist attack in New York City earlier that day had put everyone on high alert, especially the Federal agents at airports right across the country. But even as I made my way through Los Angeles airport, I had no idea what was about to happen…

My brother was waiting for me on the other side, and I breezed swiftly into the customs and border control area, armed with my ESTA visa waiver that UK residents use to enter the States. Fingerprints done, passport scanned and all that remained was to hand my documents over to the official for an entry stamp.

As he leafed through my battered passport full of visas and stamps from the many countries across the globe I’ve passed through this year, his eyes fixed on the Iranian entry and exit stamps and his face stiffened. Eyeing me with suspicion now he said: “Why did you go to Iran?” and when I explained that it was on my overland route to Asia his eyes narrowed, he folded up my passport and said: “come with me sir”.

He took me out of the public area, down a corridor and handed me over to another agent who took my passport and beckoned me to follow him. I was led into a room and told to sit down and wait. When I took out my phone to try and let my brother know what was happening I was told to switch it off immediately and put it in my bag, as this was a high security area and no cell phones were allowed.

Over an hour later my name was called and I had to approach a desk. Behind a thick glass barrier a customs and immigration agent sat down and came straight to the point. My ESTA was no longer valid because I’d been in Iran and as such I couldn’t come into the USA. I tried to explain that when I applied for my visa waiver back in February, I hadn’t been to Iran so had actually answered the question correctly (“have you ever been to Iran, Iraq, Syria etc…”) on the form at the time of applying. But this answer only seemed to agitate him and he told me that not only could I not enter, but that I could never enter again in the future on an ESTA because of my visit to Iran.

Then I was asked to supply details of the border crossing point and date, as well as list every place I had been to while there, and the dates I had visited each town or city. At this point my mind went completely blank — no doubt due to the stress of the situation and the fact that I’d been awake for 23 hours — and I just couldn’t remember the names of any of the towns I’d passed through, apart from the port of Bandar Abbas, where I’d been stuck for five days trying to get out of the country. It made me feel guilty somehow, even though I had nothing to be guilty of.

I thought of my brother waiting for me in arrivals and wondering what the hell was going on. I also thought of my motorcycle luggage going around and around on its own on the carousel, with no one there to pick it up. As if by magic, someone came into the room and called out my name. I raised my hand and she told me that my luggage had been put in a secure area.

I pleaded with the guard and explained about my round-the-world ride, how I’d set out hoping to discover the goodness in people and to dispel some of the myths surrounding certain countries and cultures, but I could see it was falling on deaf ears. I asked him if I could use my phone and just get a message to my brother that I was being detained and he told me I had one minute to do this. I banged out a quick text telling him ‘go home, I’m being held because of Iran visit, no idea of outcome’, and then I decided to try a change of tack.

I said to the guard that there had clearly been a misunderstanding on my part and that it was a real shock to me, that I’d never have intentionally done this and was there anything that could be done to resolve the situation. He looked me in the eyes and seemed to soften just a little. Then he said that he’d have a word with his boss, that there might be a chance I could reapply for a different visa and if it was accepted, then I would have a chance of being allowed in. He told me to sit back down in the holding room and wait.

And wait and wait. Another hour passed before he returned and he beckoned me over. This time he called me by my first name, so I knew things were looking up. I was taken to a separate room, photographed, fingerprinted and asked to sign a declaration that included saying why I had been in Iran. His boss then came out and asked if I’d tried to get into Pakistan too. When I told him that my visa application had been rejected he smiled and said “good job we’re letting you in then”. He then told me that I would be granted a visa for this time I was in the USA, but that I’d never be able to apply for an ESTA visa again. And then I was relieved of $585 for my trouble.

That’s gotta hurt? Yes, it does

After I’d paid up, he looked me in the eyes and said: “Welcome to the United States, good luck man”. I kid you not.

I left quickly before he changed his mind, cursing under my breath. As I exited the secure area and entered the huge arrivals hall and started to look for a taxi I heard a familiar voice. It was my brother, still waiting for me after four hours. “I could do with a drink Johnny,” I said. That cold beer never even touched the sides…

32 thoughts on ““Welcome to the United States”. NOT!”

  1. Its a strange, strange world we live in master Jack…..or in your case Andy.
    Enjoy the journey anyway. It is just another interesting page, to say the least. There is, as you have found goodness and kindness in people everywhere, just not usually those with some kind of authority. Ride well and run too if you are numbering up again.

    1. Yep, Vegas next weekend Damien, but the training’s gone out the window, and I’ve hardly slept since arriving, due to my bro’s incessant snoring. Earplugs just aren’t enough to drown out the din mate…

  2. Hello Andy
    That is just too much. What an incredible overeach of mindless, vindictive authority. But I am not that surprised re anything that has the shadow of US Govt hanging over it.
    Years ago a friend was photographed entertaining dock workers on a picket line. This photo appeared in the press. Sometime later my friends application for a US visa was refused at the Melbourne consulate. No reason given – just join the dots.
    I will tell all my friends about your experience . The world has gone mad.
    Take care my friend.

    1. Will do Steve, Indonesia seems like a long time ago for me now. Will have to return before too much time passes… Be well my friend.

    1. Too right mate, but bear-spray and me just don’t mix, as you know. Mind you, my brother is slower and larger than me, so I guess bringing him along could be the answer to a safe Canadian vacation for me…!

  3. Hey Andy,
    This is John Nash who you met at Long Beach BMW the day you arrived here in California. Thanks for sharing your incredible story. I’m glad to see that you are now safely on your U.S. Marathon Ride on the new BMW R1200 Ralley. Hopefully the rest of your journey will be the great Adventure you are continuing on. Wishing you a warm welcome to the United States.

    1. Hey there John, so far so good. California is incredible, and I’ve not even scratched the surface. Will just have to come back again… and again!

  4. As someone who has spent hours and hours on borders waiting to get in, out, back in(the worst), surrounded by Kalashnikov waving soldiers, corrupt officials etc..I have some empathy Andy. However my delays were all due to developing and second world issues and notched first world arrogance, ignorance, paranoia and craziness of “God’s own country”. Hope it improves Andy.

  5. My sympathies Andy! We were in the States earlier this year and couldn’t believe the immigration queues. It’s bad enough if nothing goes amiss, let alone you having an Iran stamp in your passport! Hope the rest of your trip goes ok! (Good to see you’ve escaped the desk for a while too!).

    1. Lovely to hear from you Jeff. The roads and the Redwoods in California have made up for the rednecks in customs and immigration, so I’m smiling again. Hope you are well.

  6. Bad luck at the start of your journey. This is most unfortunate but you recovered well in your negotiation. What a hefty fine! Put it behind you now and enjoy the Westcoast riding when you get your bike. Love to you and John and keep safe, Mum and Dad.

    1. Thanks mum, thanks to Johnny’s ability to sniff out a ‘deal’, we’re clawing some of that cash back slowly…

  7. Andy,

    A few years ago I got caught at the same immigration point, they wanted to see my return ticket… I had my ticket on my phone so I asked if I could turn on my phone to retrieve it and they said no and sent me to the little waiting room. Nearly an hour later they called my name and we went through the procedure again! This time the guy said,”sorry I’ve no idea why he wanted to see your return ticket” and told me to go!!

    So it’s not just you and it’s not just a recent thing…


    1. Thanks Gordo, but this was about Iran, on a tense day for the USA. And my beard was a tad too long for comfort, too. Never again bud.

  8. Well dear you are in the States after being tested about your journeys. How wonderfull John was waiting for you an d what a relieve.
    Enjoy the time together.love from Holland m&p

  9. I guess if ever there was a time to return to the ways of 20 Benches & Hedges then this ‘life’ episode would have been it. Well done on keeping your poot together. C U soon. T

    1. Cheers mr T, I nearly reached for one of my bro’s cigars, but stopped myself at the last minute. Caught myself looking at that behemoth piece of metal, too!

    1. Thanks KK, all good now, just a bit poorer so will be using my tent a lot more than I intended. It’s gonna be cold in the mountains!

  10. Hi Andy,
    versuche den schlechten Start zu vergessen (welches bestimmt nicht einfach ist) und genieße die Tour mit John. Wir wünschen Euch viel Glück.
    Birgit und Andre

  11. Be honest, this was revenge for a bad review you wrote about a Harley.

    Glad you got through in the end and hope your ride goes smooth.


    1. Cheers Vicar, things got a lot better after I got my freedom! So far so good and I’m enjoying the USA again. Be well mate.

  12. Hi, Andy! I met you and your brother in Death Valley, I was riding the Softail Slim. I see you ran your marathon! Congratulations! I will be following you on your journeys!

    Btw, I was in a motorcycle accident a few weeks ago. All I’m riding now is the couch until I heal. So happy to have made it to Death Valley!

    Ride safe and run hard!

    1. Hey Anita, so sorry to hear of your accident. I hope that you’ll be back on the bike soon. Take care out there, they are all out to get you!!

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