The almost two-metre man is as happy as a child: a broad grin stretches beneath his still wet, dark hair. He comes dripping down the wooden jetty towards us, the sandy board tucked under his arm like the daily newspaper, it's still hammering outside. But instead of raving about surfing, he first asks the kids: "How was the Pump Track? You like it?" José Sampaio only wants the best. For himself, but also for his guests. You can see and feel this in "Feelviana", which was the ideal basis for the creation of perhaps one of the most beautiful adventure playgrounds for the whole family. José is the planner and manager of the "Feel Viana Hotel", but first and foremost still a big play child himself - and so "one night when I couldn't sleep", new ideas like the one for a pump track under the hotel keep coming up. For his nephews and nieces - and of course the hotel's guest kids.
José already had his eye on the spot for the hotel 15 years ago. As an obsessive windsurfer, surfer and later also kiter and stand-up paddler, he has always appreciated the spot. Just like some locals and numerous Spaniards, who can often be found on the water on good days and weekends, coming from the nearby border. However, the first attempt to plan a hotel failed and the project was only realised in 2016.
The general mood of optimism in Portuguese tourism, the promotion of the region and the "Portugal Norte 2020" programme, which aims to open up the region for tourism - also with EU funding in the billions - were certainly not a hindrance at the second attempt. Holidaymakers are welcome in Portugal and prices are still at a decent level. In addition, Viana offers as many water sports options as three normal spots, with a remarkable wind yield for a large part of the year and a comprehensive alternative programme. So mum can shred waves in Cabedelo while the kids shop in Viana and dad catches up on a happy childhood on the Pump Track on a skateboard.
Viana Do Castelo - three spots in one!
The main spot "Praia do Cabedelo" is located directly in front of the "Feel Viana" hotel and can be reached directly via a 200 metre long wooden walkway through the dunes. Even at high tide, a sandy beach 30 to 50 metres wide lines a safe bay that stretches a good three kilometres to leeward in a wide arc.
To the right, to the north, a 200-metre-long harbour breakwater keeps out the biggest waves and neatly sorts the incoming waves. This is where some surf schools send their beginners into the water, and even when the swell is high, it's quite tame here. The wind at the hotel entrance usually blows slightly offshore or sideshore from the right - at least that is the main wind direction. The latest hire equipment is available at the centre directly on the beach. From there, you can head over the fine, gently sloping sandy beach into the surf - or further out for some freeride heat. The boulders that can be seen about 200 metres downwind on the beach only mark a particularly beautiful section for advanced wave surfers; they do not reach far into the water. "There's no danger from them," reassures surf instructor Bruno. At any tide level, the standing area goes far enough into the water to prepare for the start in peace, and even wingsurfers with little wave experience can get through the surf relatively easily here. However, Viana is not a standing area. But beware: the swell of the year can also catch you in Viana, in which case the main beach is reserved for advanced wave surfers.
After crossing the white water, freeriders immediately pull up towards the harbour entrance and are quickly in the protected area, which offers plenty of space for longer strokes. Even if the ambience seems less attractive upwind, you can't see the harbour when surfing in the prevailing wind direction and there is hardly any ship traffic.
A typical Viana day can be packed with so much action that the question of the WLAN password is superfluous.
Wind and weather
Like the entire Spanish and Portuguese Atlantic coast, the region around Viana also regularly receives supra-regional ocean swell. Solid waves are therefore regularly guaranteed, especially in spring and autumn. In midsummer, it often remains completely flat for longer periods - with fantastic conditions for freeriders and freestylers. The wind system, on the other hand, benefits above all from the local conditions. The prevailing wind comes from the north to north-west and is locally extremely accelerated. If the direction is right (N-NW), then you can easily add ten to 15 knots to the forecast. Days for small wings are then not uncommon, even if it is just enough to take off a few kilometres to the south or north.
The typical course of the day is light winds in the morning and ideal for beginners and intermediates (or SUP and surf), then slightly increasing, followed by a digestive low at midday and then a good turn up and fairly constant until sunset. If the wind really picks up - which can also happen - and the wave in Viana is small, windsurfers and wingers head about 20 kilometres north, to the Moledo Beach. We would rate May to September as the best wind season. If you are looking for wind and waves at the same time, April/May and then again in September/October are the best times.
Even though Viana has the potential to be perhaps the most versatile action spot, the warm bathing day is unfortunately cancelled all year round. Even in summer, the Atlantic barely warms above 18 degrees. That's a far cry from freezing, but there are never bikini bathing conditions. In spring and autumn, people wear long black dresses here and even in summer you are hardly overdressed in a 4/3 steamer.
Alternative programme: out and about with a board, bike and paddle
And even the windless days are on the plus side in Viana. A typical day can be packed so full of action that there's no need to ask for the Wi-Fi password. For very committed SUPers with an affinity for good wine, the extended trip to the Douro Valley could also be worthwhile. The river has its source in Spain and runs through romantic valleys with fertile vineyards for the last 200 kilometres to the mouth of the Atlantic in Porto. You should plan to spend half a day, or even better, a whole day in Porto. Ideally, you should then continue on to the vineyards in the Pinhão region with an overnight stay at a winery. The leisurely SUP tours from the boat ensure maximum relaxation and deceleration. This break from your holiday can also be organised via "Feel Viana" or individually.
The guided, four-hour bike tour is highly recommended. Mario and Bruno know the area and show you the most beautiful paths and secluded little beaches. It's an effortless way to explore Viana and the surrounding area, even for families who don't want to push themselves too hard.
Living in Viana Do Castelo
The "Feel Viana" is certainly the classiest address. Comfortable rooms, an excellent breakfast and direct access to all land and water toys. The cuisine is impressive with star-worthy dishes on the small, fine menu. But also at a star-like price. Alternatively, there are numerous holiday flats, apartments and B&Bs of all price ranges in the area, which can be found via the usual booking platforms on the internet.
The campsite "Parque de Campismo Orbitur Viana do Castelo" is located about 200 metres downwind of the hotel directly at the spot behind the dunes and is the best campsite for surfers, e.g. bookings via booking.com. All offers and bookings are also available exclusively at surf-action.com
