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If even worldcuppers like Ben Proffitt, who travels around the world all year round with the PWA circus, voluntarily choose the south-west of Portugal as their main home, there must be a reason. Sail manufacturer GunSails also chose Sagres as the backdrop for the SUP board photo shoot for the first time in spring 2019, not least because of the spectacular cliff landscapes in the area. The team returned in the summer, without SUPs but with the complete collection of windsurfing sails from wave to race, because the research had revealed There are not only impressive cliffs around Sagres, but also a wide variety of conditions in a small area, plenty of wind and beautiful beaches - all combined with affordable prices and short flight times.
Portugal's south-west: the end of the old world
The extreme south-west of Portugal, which is also the most south-westerly tip of Europe, was considered the end of the world a few centuries ago. The coastline was feared by seafarers and many ships were wrecked on the wave-swept cliffs around Cabo de São Vicente.
Today's windsurfers can experience a different kind of wave adventure here - the Tonel spot, not far from the small town of Sagres, has it all: here you can often shred logo-high Atlantic waves at the foot of imposing cliffs and perhaps put yourself in the minds of the ancient seafarers who had to make the dangerous journey along the coast without maps or weather forecasts.
If you turn off to the east after the cape, you suddenly find yourself in calmer waters. Long sandy bays lie picturesquely nestled between rock formations, the water colours oscillate somewhere between deep blue and emerald green. At Praia do Martinhal, just two kilometres from the Tonel wave spot, it's hard to imagine that the Atlantic surf is thundering unchecked onto the beach around the next corner.
On the trail of ancient seafarers
The Nortada, which blows reliably from a northerly direction in the summer months due to the temperature and resulting pressure difference between the cool Atlantic Ocean and the hot Iberian Peninsula, arrives in Martinhal almost unchecked and smoothes out even the smallest waves. The wind weakens with every kilometre to the east and, conversely, the number of hotel complexes on the beach increases - after all, the southern Algarve is one of the most touristically developed regions in Europe.
In the old harbour town of Lagos - which incidentally gave its name to what is now the capital of Nigeria - you can once again follow in the footsteps of the ancient seafarers. Although the old town centre and city walls were severely damaged by the catastrophic tsunami that hit the entire west coast of Europe in 1755 and almost completely destroyed cities such as Lisbon, some buildings from earlier centuries have been preserved in Lagos, such as the city walls and the old slave market, which are well worth a visit. Here in Lagos, too, the north wind blows offshore over a long sandy beach and makes for wonderful shallow water. Those who are wary of offshore winds can also safely hone their manoeuvres in the nearby Lagos lagoon.
The wind drives away the sun worshippers in Sagres
The fact that Sagres has remained a tranquil little town despite its fantastic surroundings is mainly due to the incessant wind. When it whistles at 30 knots in the afternoon and the sand flies through the air, the average sun worshipper is usually not very happy, which is why there are several hotels here, but not the bed castles of the southern Algarve.
According to experts, 60 per cent gliding wind is an understatement
Of course, you have a different perspective on the wind as a windsurfer. The morning programme is usually relaxed, as the Nortada is not an early riser. A coffee in the town and then a first wind check on the beach - all this is possible in Sagres without long journeys and you can basically leave the car at home. While in the morning hours it's mainly intermediates who enjoy themselves in the large bay, the afternoon belongs more to the experts: according to experts, the 60 per cent planing wind that the statistics show for Sagres is an understatement; locals like surf school owner Joel speak of an 80 per cent planing wind.
The GunSails crew can also tell you a thing or two about it. While the pictures of the wave, freestyle and freeride sails were taken in no time at all, it was pretty tight for the big race and foil sails. The Nortada just wouldn't let go.
Spot info Sagres
Journey
The region at the south-western tip of Portugal is easy to reach by plane. The destination should be Faro, just 120 kilometres away, which is served by flights from many Central European airports. Depending on the period and route, flights are available from as little as 150 euros. Car hire is available from ten euros per day in the low season. As always, check the baggage regulations of the airlines, especially if parts of the flight are operated by different airlines. If in doubt, it is better to book everything through a travel agency and register surfing luggage in advance. Alternatively, it is of course also possible to travel by motorhome. However, the almost 2600 kilometre journey from Munich or Cologne is only worthwhile if you have some time.
Living & camping around Sagres
In the 80s and 90s, Sagres was still considered an insider tip and was only known to individualists. In recent years, a lot has been built in the community of 2,000 inhabitants, but unlike other places in the Algarve, Sagres has largely retained its original charm as it has opted for natural development instead of concrete castles. Today, there are numerous hostels, apartments and hotels in the town in a wide range of price categories - the best way to book is via the well-known online platforms such as Airbnb. If you want to stay at the main Martinhal spot and are travelling with your family, you should consider the Beach Family Resort, which is within walking distance of the spot and surf centre.
Wild camping is prohibited in Portugal, but you can easily find accommodation in a campervan or motorhome, for example in:
Sagres
- Camping Ingrina: www.campingingrina.com
- Parque de Campismo Orbitur: +351 282 624 371
Lagos
- Camping Alvor: www.campingalvor.com
- Camping Dourada: +351 282 453 178
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations
Like the more northerly spots in Portugal, the Algarve is also ventilated by the Nortada. This wind from a northerly direction is caused by the temperature and resulting pressure difference between the cool Atlantic and the warm Iberian Peninsula. As a result, the Nortada blows most consistently in spring and summer. The statistics for Sagres show a 40 to 60 per cent gliding wind, and here too local reinforcements often ensure that the wind usually blows noticeably stronger than forecast.
As a rule, the Nortada sets in moderately in the morning, and even intermediates get their money's worth. In the afternoon, the wind really picks up and 20 to 25 knots are the norm. Locals estimate the wind rate to be even higher in summer, although the extremely strong days with over 30 knots are somewhat rarer here than in the region around Guincho.
The temperatures are very pleasant all year round. As the Atlantic hardly gets warmer than 21 degrees even in August, air temperatures rarely rise above 30 degrees due to the cooling effect of the sea - 25 degrees is the norm in midsummer, so a shorty or short-sleeved neo is suitable. In spring and autumn, with an average of 22 degrees in the air and 16 degrees in the water, you should always pack a long-sleeved neo. While the Nortada dominates the weather in summer, low pressure systems with rain and strong winds from the south to west regularly pass through in the winter months.
Waves, currents & tides
During the summer Nortada phases, the wave heights usually remain moderate and are between one and two metres on the west coast. If wind-independent swell is added, it can get really fat and quite challenging at wave spots like Tonel. Flat water fans and intermediates will be reassured by the fact that the freeride spots on the south coast are protected from the waves of the Atlantic. The tides must also be taken into account, the tidal range is between two and three metres. As the usual wind forecasting services are often inadequate at predicting swells, it is worth taking a look at Magic Seaweed.
Surfing stations around Sagres
The region's hot spot is undoubtedly Martinhal beach, just a few metres east of the village of Sagres. Wind4All, a well-equipped surf school, has also established itself there, where you can hire the latest equipment from I-99, GunSails and Simmer. It is usually open from the beginning of March to the end of October. SUP boards and kayaks are also available at the centre.
Algarve Watersport, a centre equipped with the latest equipment, is located in the Lagos lagoon. Windsurfing courses for children and adults as well as other sports such as SUP, wakeboarding and yoga are also on offer.
Shops
There is no real windsurfing shop in the region, so if you need replacement equipment, you can get it at one of the two surf schools listed.
Local tips
Sagres is not a tourist stronghold, so if you're looking for a party and an overflowing nightlife, you're in the wrong place here. Nevertheless, there are some nice restaurants and bars with live music in the town that you can visit for a cool Sagres. You can eat well at Restaurante Armazem, for example. Fresh fish is good at Restaurante Escondidinho. You should definitely try some of the regional delicacies such as pargo (fish), medronho (fruit brandy) or the typical almond cake with figs.
Alternative programme around Sagres
The Algarve offers much more than just good windsurfing conditions. The entire area around Sagres is part of a nature reserve, with imposing cliffs and picturesque sandy beaches. If the Nortada takes a break, the surrounding area offers a multitude of perfect surfing and SUP spots. Surf camps and surf shops with board hire seem to be a dime a dozen. A trip to the Fortaleza de Sagres fortress perched high above the cliffs and the lighthouse at Cabo de São Vicente is definitely worthwhile.
Shady sides
Portugal is a safe country to travel to. In the cities, as everywhere else, you should not leave valuables in the car, as break-ins cannot be ruled out.
The best windsurfing spots around Sagres
1) Tonel
Tonel is located between Cabo de São Vicente and the rocky promontory overlooked by the famous fort, on the wild west coast of the Algarve. The sandy bay is picturesquely nestled between high cliffs and is fully exposed to the Atlantic swells. You park at the windward end of the bay at the beach bar, from where you have a great view of the coast and the sunset. Despite all the romance, the spot itself takes no prisoners and can be described as a very challenging wave spot. Although the wind usually blows nicely sideshore from the right and the entry is over sand, it is sometimes gusty in the shore area and there are some rocks hidden in the water that are easy to see at low tide, but can be overlooked at high tide.
The fact that the beach is framed by fat cliffs and the current is not to be sneezed at on days with big swells also means that there is hardly any relaxation - at least for less experienced wave surfers. However, as the wind swell generated by the Nortada is somewhat blocked by the cape to the north, the waves often remain moderate in summer, when Tonel is also rideable for wave intermediates and is equally inviting for frontside riding and jumping. When the swell is right, the wheat quickly separates from the chaff in the break and fat Atlantic lines push into the bay, on whose smooth wave faces you can slice many a turn. If it gets too wild, you can watch the cracks at work - or enjoy the beautiful ambience with a cool Sagres.
2) Praia de Martinhal
To the east of Sagres, protected by the cape, is Martinhal, a long sandy beach where the heart of the surfing scene beats. Car parking is available. The Nortada blows offshore here and is therefore somewhat gusty. However, as the hinterland is quite flat and only slightly built-up, the turbulence is limited and you can accelerate away from the beach to glide over the mirror-smooth and crystal-clear water. In the shore area, no chop interferes with the next speed run, freestyle trick or jibe attempt. You can also take long strokes along the beach, and further out the wind is a little more constant, creating small chops.
Although the wind blows offshore, intermediates and beginners - ideally in the morning when the wind is lighter - can surf here quite safely, as the local surf school Wind4All also has a motorboat for emergencies and there is a small standing area on the shore. If you stay in the eastern part of Sagres or at the beach resort at the eastern end of the beach, you can do everything between bed, board and town on foot. The beach itself is well frequented in high summer, when sunbeds, parasols and all kinds of rubber animals line the beach - at least until the Nortada drives the sun worshippers away.
In the winter months, Martinhal can turn into a wave spot when a low-pressure system with winds from the south-west blows through. The same applies to days with Levante, which then arrives at the spot from the northeast to southeast, but usually brings rather chaotic waves.
3) Lagos/Meia Praia
Lagos is around 35 kilometres east of Sagres. It can make sense to drive here if the Nortada is firing from all cylinders in Sagres and you are longing for more relaxed conditions, as the north wind is much weaker here and only sets in later in the day than in Sagres. You can park at the Bar Quim, directly behind the long sandy beach of Meia Praia, where even non-surfing guests can enjoy themselves.
Here, too, the north wind is blowing fully offshore and somewhat gusty in the shore area. The water surface remains as smooth as glass, with small chop forming further out. Due to the generally more moderate wind, Meia Praia is perfect for foil surfing, slalom heating or freeriding - and of course for intermediates. There are always a few kiters here, but there is plenty of space. Under the influence of low pressure, Lagos mutates into a beautiful wave spot with wind from the right when the wind blows from the south-west. Even with easterly winds, there are fine wave conditions downwind of the pier at the eastern end of the beach. There are bars, restaurants and other infrastructure in the charming old town of Lagos with its city walls.
4) Lagos/Lagoon
To the east of Meia Praia beach, Lagos has a spot that is perfect for intermediates in particular. At low tide, it is too shallow in the lagoon, but around three hours before and after high tide you can heat up, trick or practise beach or water starts in shallow water to your heart's content without running the risk of drifting. Even in strong winds, the water here remains as smooth as glass.
5) Praia dos Salgados
The Nortada rarely makes it that far east. But if it does and the west coast is maltreated by a big swell (forecast over 15 feet) and spots like Tonel are no longer rideable, then travelling to Salgados makes sense. NW comes sideshore to slightly sideoff, the swell usually remains moderate - real fun conditions for riding are then available with wind from the right. A wintry southerly wind is also passable, offering sideonshore conditions from the left.
This article first appeared in surf 4/2020
