"I'm making you an offer you can't refuse ..." Images go through my head. A walk in the harbour, but with concrete shoes? A bath in hydrochloric acid in a barrel that then disappears into some ravine? A horse's head on the pillow?
But maybe it was the Italian red wine I was drinking. Because the godfather's voice sounds less like Don Vito Corleone and more suspiciously like Manuel from surf magazine when he asks if I'll be back in Sardinia in the spring anyway. "Then why don't you go to the north-west corner, it's supposed to be really nice up there ..."
Isola dell'Assinara with a dark history
The north-west of Sardinia - this refers to the headland of Stintino, off which the Isola dell'Asinara, the third largest of the islands off the coast of Sardinia, is located. In addition to the famous white donkeys, the island also has some gruesome history: the population of the island was resettled during the First World War and prisoners of war from Austria and Hungary were interned in wretched conditions. Thousands of them died of disease and malnutrition.
After the war, a more modern prison was built on the island, where serious criminals, especially members of the mafia, served their sentences. Until 1997, there was a high-security prison on the island, effectively the Alcatraz of Sardinia. Even today, the contrast between the ruins of the former prison and the incredible water colours of the narrow strip of water that separates the Isola dell'Asinara from Stintino is more than impressive.
Sardinia's north offers a diverse selection of spots
At least our view of the bay is not restricted by bars when we come over the hill in Stintino and we are at a loss for words when we see the truly Caribbean water colours. The scenery at La Pelosa offers almost everything: powder-fine white sand, water colours in every conceivable shade of blue and turquoise, rugged black rocks from Capo Falcone, medieval watch and signal towers and, in the background, the Isola dell'Asinara with the ruins of the aforementioned prison. If, on the other hand, you look to the south, towards Porto Torres, it is more difficult to see the scenic charm of the harbour town's refineries and oil tanks.
Nevertheless, this corner of Sardinia is attractive for windsurfers, as it offers a variety of spots for every surfing level and preference in a relatively small area. From good wave spots to perfect speed spots - there's something somewhere in almost every wind direction. What's more, the wind picks up locally at the headland of Stintino and usually exceeds the predicted values. Unlike the island's well-known spots such as Porto Pollo, it doesn't get crowded on the water and Alghero in the south offers one of Sardinia's most beautiful old towns as an alternative programme, as does the nature around the impressive cliffs of Capo Caccia.
Breathtaking water colours in La Pelosa and Le Saline
Flo and I rig up relatively quickly on the still empty beach of La Pelosa in an offshore wind. In view of the water colours and the fact that we are the only ones on the water, it's more of a race that Flo wins. On the water, however, he is more of a second winner in terms of speed with his freestyle equipment against my slalom equipment, but in terms of fun we are definitely on a par and well up there in view of the surfing conditions and, above all, the backdrop and the colours. Perhaps the prisoners should have thought about breaking out on a surfboard ...
We are also alone on the water again at the neighbouring spot Le Saline. Presumably because there are scattered clouds in the sky. The locals consider this to be unacceptably bad weather, so it's not really worth travelling to the beach. Apart from the seaweed washed up on the beach, this spot also offers shallow water conditions par excellence, plus the backdrop of the derelict tuna factory. For years, tuna fishing was one of the main sources of income in this region, as the many murals around the ancient harbour of Stintino show. Just like the museum dedicated to the history of tuna fishing on the south side of the harbour.
It can get crowded in summer
The fact that salt was extracted at Le Saline back then was also due to the processing of the fish caught, for which the salt was urgently needed at the time. Even today, it is easy to see how the salt could be harvested once the seawater had evaporated. Once a busy centre, the salt works is now a nature reserve for vast numbers of birds, including the pink flamingos that make Sardinia their home.
Now in the low season, the birds definitely outnumber the tourists. This is probably different in summer, even if the narrow beach with snow-white sand at the northern end of Stintino is barely visible due to all the bathers.
In front of the rugged and sharp rocks of Capo Falcone, we take advantage of the local strengthening of the wind in front of the former watchtower for one last session before heading to the west coast to enjoy the sunset.
Relaxed wave conditions in La Ciacca
A decent wind the next day and the news from our Sardinian friends means a bit of driving. Our destination is the spot La Ciaccia, which the Sardinians say can be really good. And Sardinians, like the Danes, don't lie. Within sight of Castelsardo, which is built on the cliffs, we can see nothing at first from the car park, which is laid out in several steps on the slope. At least no waves worth mentioning.
A café with a direct view of the spot offers a proper coffee and cornetto so that you can relax and watch as the first candidates venture into the increasing waves, always nicely downwind of the visible rock slab. As it's always wind and not groundswell in the Mediterranean, it sometimes takes a while for the waves to build up. But that's just the way it is with punctuality in Italy - it can sometimes take a while. On the other hand, the waves are really good and it's more crowded in the car park than on the water, as the shorebreak can make for a certain selection.
But compared to the other wave spots on the north coast of Sardinia, which are mostly peppered with rocks and sea urchins, La Ciaccia offers really relaxed conditions. Provided the wind holds, they get better and better as the day progresses, so an evening session is the perfect end to another good day on my favourite island. The day actually ends with an ice-cold Ichnusa, the Sardinian beer, on the beach, with salt water and sun on your skin ...
So if you want to surf off the beaten track and experience truly spectacular water colours and scenery, we can definitely recommend the spots around Stintino. Or, as Marlon Brando alias Don Vito Corleone would generously put it in the cult film "The Godfather": "... an offer you can't refuse ..."
The best windsurfing spots in the north-west of Sardinia
1) La Ciaccia
40.9190, 8.7826
If there is one comfortable and feel-good wave spot in Sardinia, then it is La Ciaccia. When the wind blows from the west, preferably for a few days, the terrace of the café on the beach offers a view of an almost perfect wave spot. Impressive waves break cleanly over a rock slab on the left edge of the bay (be careful - very, very shallow upwind!) and invite you to jump as well as ride them. It is relatively easy to get out through a channel and the sandy beach to leeward offers enough space for a safe exit. A meadow for rigging, sanitary facilities and a beautiful view of relatively clean waves round off this wave spot. But be careful: the further downwind you land, the more violent the shorebreak becomes.
2.) Marina di Sorso
40.8296, 8.5528
Some access roads are only open to the tenants/residents of the holiday complexes, but even so you can choose one of the numbered access roads along the road through the pine trees, with a parking space behind the dunes at one of the many beach bars. The conditions on this stretch of coast are similar - freeride to bump & jump. Almost any wind direction is possible, with north and north-west winds there are some waves, with winds from the south it is a bit gusty on the water due to the dunes, then it is better to head towards Stintino.
3) Platamona
40.8191, 8.4733
The road runs parallel to the beach and there are several car park options for getting out on the water. The best wind direction with the option of waves here is westerly, the waves then break over a sandbank and there can be shorebreaks. The waves are smaller than at the pure wave spot La Ciaccia. There are sanitary facilities in a beach bar at the westernmost car park, directly in front of the car park there is a rock slab in the water, otherwise relaxed surfing and freeriding is possible here even with an easterly wind against the beautiful backdrop of the cliffs to the west.
4) Stintino Le Saline
40.8600, 8.2871
Strictly speaking, there are two spots: One is at the first car park in the north, near the old tower ruins. The other is a little further south. You can park for free at both, but then have to carry your equipment through the former salt works over wooden walkways to the beach. Caution: the surface of the salt works is very slippery after rain! In westerly winds, this is the meeting point for all speed riders, wrinkle-free water in offshore winds with a relatively large standing area offers the opportunity to raise your personal record or hone your current freestyle manoeuvre. Watch out - south of the ruined tower, a pipe goes into the water that is guaranteed to kill any fin! The seaweed is only washed up on the beach and is more of an obstacle on the way into the water, but it doesn't interfere with surfing. There are sanitary facilities at the car park, but they are still closed outside the season.
5.) Stintino La Pelosa
40.9653, 8.2093
The spot for those who want to convince their friends via social media that they are in the Caribbean! The car park is relatively limited, and when the weather is nice it gets full quickly. You can park at a car park at the hotel at Spiaggia del Gabbiano, or alternatively along the road. One entrance is near the car park at the surfing station in the southern part of the bay, the other leads via steps to the picturesque sandbank. At the tower, which guards the strip of water between the Isola di Asinara and the mainland on a small island, it can get surprisingly choppy, partly due to currents in the narrow water channel. Otherwise, freeriders and freestylers will find perfect conditions here.
6.) Porto Ferro
40.6832, 8.2053
A beautiful bay that, according to the locals, works with easterly winds, but then offshore. North and south winds are shielded by the mountains, and west winds produce large waves, albeit fully onshore. From our point of view, this is more of a tip for surfers, as there is also a surf school on site. There are much better spots for windsurfing.
7) Fertilia
40.5939, 8.2938
The long sandy beach between Fertilia and Alghero offers relaxed freeriding conditions - in almost all wind directions. With westerly winds, it quickly becomes choppy and the area turns into a bump & jump spot, always with a fantastic view of the Alghero backdrop. There is sand everywhere, and in spring there is a lot of seaweed on the beach, which is cleared away during the season.
Area information Sardinia North
Journey
As is usually the case with islands, there are two alternatives for travelling to the island: ferry or plane. The advantage of travelling by ferry with your own car is mobility on the island and easy transport of equipment. If you choose an overnight ferry, for example from Livorno, Genoa or La Spezia, you don't lose any time travelling to the island and arrive relaxed the next morning, for example in Olbia. From there, it is around a two-hour drive on toll-free motorways to Oristano. Optionally book a ferry directly to Porto Torres.
Ferry companies
You can fly from various German airports, such as Düsseldorf, Munich and Frankfurt, to Olbia, Alghero or Cagliari. You should clarify beforehand whether you can take your equipment with you.
Living & Camping
Wild camping is generally prohibited and is also subject to heavy fines. There are a number of campsites:
Alternatively, there are a number of holiday flats and hotels, for example via Airbnb.
Surf schools/surf shops
There is relatively little infrastructure, so it is advisable to bring your own equipment.
- The windsurfing centre (windsurfingcentre.it). Boat tours and excursions to the Isola di Asinara are also offered from there.
- Andreas Mariotti also offers SUP tours in Sassari: windsurfandrea.wixsite.com
Best time to travel
Fortunately, the best wind season in Sardinia does not fall in the classic high summer. Not only is the island very crowded then, but prices shoot up like Philip Köster on the best days in Pozo. The best wind season is in spring and autumn and, for hardened surfers, also in winter. This is when Sardinia benefits from the foothills of the Mistral. In the region around Stintino, the wind is not as strong as at the famous Porto Pollo spot, where it is accelerated by the strait to Corsica. However, the spots around Stintino also benefit from local reinforcements and thermals, so you don't have to rely solely on the Mistral as a source of energy.
From April to November, the daily maximum temperatures average over 20 degrees. And even in winter they rarely reach single figures. The water reaches temperatures of over 20 degrees in summer, while in the winter months you have to make do with 12 to 15 degrees. Sardinia is therefore also worth a (surf) trip in winter.
