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Politics is made in Paris - and here, at the most north-western tip of Normandy, Paris seems far away at first glance. The chaos of the capital, the traffic and the crowds are nowhere to be felt here. The inhabitants of the north of France are sometimes pitied or even ridiculed by the capital's inhabitants: the most common preconceptions are that they're reclusive, grumpy and backwoods.
On the Cotentin peninsula, 350 kilometres northwest of Paris, people naturally see things a little differently. They celebrate their remoteness and their own culture, such as the Norman language, which has only survived here and on the Channel Islands off the coast.
Nevertheless, Paris is sometimes closer than you might think: around Cherbourg, the undisputed centre of the peninsula with 85,000 inhabitants, French energy policy manifests itself in visible form: Anyone shredding one of the powerful Atlantic waves at the Siouville wave spot can either look northwards to the La Hague nuclear processing plant or southwards to the two units of the Flamanville nuclear power plant. A third unit was supposed to have been completed long ago, increasing the number of reactors in operation in France to 59, but is still under construction after a multitude of problems and a cost explosion to over ten billion euros.
In the post-Fukushima era, this seems almost grotesque in view of the fact that the Cotentin could actually be one of the most predestined regions in Europe in terms of renewable energies: According to statistics, it blows at more than twelve knots on an annual average of two out of three days.
Fine sandy beaches, rugged rocks
Of course, it would be unfair to reduce the peninsula to nuclear power alone; the Cotentin, with its rolling hills and constant alternation of endless fine sandy beaches and rugged cliffs, is simply far too beautiful for that. The huge beaches were also the reason why the Allies chose the beaches south of Cherbourg for their Normandy landings during the Second World War. On the west coast, countless bunkers and the Landing Museum on Utah Beach still bear witness to this largest landing operation in history.
The fact that the Cotentin stretches out into the English Channel like a spike also makes it interesting for windsurfers. While you get to experience the rough side of the Atlantic on the west side, the mostly sheltered beaches in the north and east often have a gentle face - which makes the Cotentin very interesting for a broad target group. However, you must not be a typical "fair-weather surfer", as the peninsula is literally bombarded by passing low-pressure systems, especially between September and April.
Pressure for the smallest sails and world-class waves are the reward for many a rainy day, which can occur here again and again in windy phases. Another plus: Cotentin spots rarely have to be shared with lots of people - with the exception of the premium spot Siouville, most beaches are surfed with just a handful of people on the water.
Our France expert Jean Souville reveals the eleven best spots in the region below.
The best windsurfing spots on the Cotentin Peninsula
1 Bretteville
Bretteville is an option, especially in strong SW to W winds. One kilometre east of Point de Heu, park in a side street on the landward side and walk a few steps to the water. There is often some shorebreak on the rocky beach and, at least in SW winds, a small wind cover in the shore area. As a rule, bump and jump conditions prevail, with the SW blowing diagonally offshore and the W coming sideshore from the left. When the swell on the west coast of the Cotentin is huge (>4 m), a good wave of one to two metres breaks in Bretteville, which is equally suitable for jumping and riding in W winds. In a NW wind, the waves are higher, but the wind is more onshore.
2 Collignon
The heart of the local freeride and slalom scene beats at the eastern end of Cherbourg harbour. A long but shallow breakwater separates the harbour area from the open sea and successfully keeps waves out. Collignon works ideally in north-easterly wind directions - a mirror-smooth speed and manoeuvring slope then forms on the inside of the harbour, which won't give even beginners a headache. The only exception: a strong tidal current develops at the exit of the basin. East of the breakwater, fans of bump & jump conditions will get their money's worth. Only when a very big swell rushes in from the north-west does a wave up to head-high break east of the breakwater - but then it's very clean and great for riding downwind in combination with a westerly wind. You can park around the Plage de Collignon. The only problem is that the local surfing and kitesurfing scene is well aware of the advantages of this spot.
3 Querqueville
If Urville-Nacqueville isn't gritty enough for you in easterly winds, you can surf a similarly orientated spot not far away in Querqueville, which usually has more powerful waves. You can park in the campsite area in the eastern part of the bay. Depending on the tide, the waves change here; at high tide they are even bigger and more powerful than at low tide. Around low tide, there are a few rocks that interfere with the surfing fun, but Querqueville is much more relaxed to surf at medium to high tide.
4 Urville-Nacqueville
The long sandy beach is located on the north coast of the peninsula, making the spot suitable for winds from the W-NW and E-NE, which are stronger here than in the surrounding area due to the chop effect. The nearby Cap de la Hague usually shields the bay from waves, which is why you will find uncomplicated flat water or bump & jump conditions here in westerly winds. Only when the wind shifts to the NW or NE does Urville-Nacqueville show its wild side - then, depending on the wind strength, beautiful waves run into the bay, which invite you to jump with an onshore wind. Only at low tide do a few rocks get in the way of the surfing fun. You should definitely be aware of the strong tidal current of up to 15 km/h (!) further out - bobbing up and down with too small a sail is not an option here!
5 Vauville
The wild west of the Cotentin Peninsula makes the hearts of all wave fans beat faster. Vauville is a very good alternative to Siouville when the wind blows slightly to the south-southeast. While it gets gusty in Siouville, the wind in Vauville comes almost sideshore from the left due to the slight bend in the coastline. The waves aren't quite as clean as further south - but that's still complaining at the highest level. Vauville is a little easier to surf than Siouville and is equally suitable for jumps and wave rides - only at high tide can the shorebreak become martial. The approach is also worthwhile in NW winds, then with a sideshore wind from the right. The bay shows a completely different face when the wind blows from the north-east, which is not uncommon in spring. The relief then regularly reinforces the light thermals in the perfectly ventilated flat water runway for heating and practising manoeuvres.
6 Siouville
The best wave spot in Normandy, perhaps even one of the best in Europe! The huge bay not far south of Cap de la Hague catches the biggest waves in the region. A westerly swell with wind from S to SW is ideal, then you can enjoy the finest frontside wave riding in the sandy bay. The S is slightly side-offshore and smoothes the wave faces perfectly for riding, but it is also a bit gusty in the surf zone. SSW to SW is more constant at the left end of the bay, sideshore and great for jumping. On moderate days, Siouville is easy to manage even with average riding ability, especially as you have plenty of space to leeward and are always spit out on sand. However, the waves often get fat, especially in the winter months. It is not uncommon for the waves to be mast-high and higher, and the current means that you need to be a good rider. The waves are at their best shortly after high tide up to medium water level. At low tide, the waves are smaller but also quite hollow. A northerly wind can also be good, but is rare.
If the wind shifts to SSO, it is worth orientating yourself a little further north towards Vauville or south towards Sciotot.
7 Sciotot
With a similar orientation to Vauville, the large sandy bay of Sciotot is also an absolute tip for days with winds from SSW to SSE. Sciotot is actually the better choice than Siouville, especially in SSE winds, because the wind coverage in the surf zone is significantly lower, otherwise the conditions are similarly good for jumping and riding. Overall, the waves here are often a little more moderate, which also makes life easier for less experienced wave surfers. The start is on a long sandy beach where all tides are rideable. At low tide, the waves are usually smaller, but you should memorise the position of a few individual stones, as these have already taken a few fins on their conscience. At high tide, the current is more of an issue as it pulls to the right towards the rocks. On days with small waves, you can alternatively enter a little further in the centre of the bay. A few hundred metres north of Camping Ranch, a small stream flows into the bay, where a few sandbanks have formed, often producing surfable conditions. The northern end of Sciotot Bay is also interesting in NW winds: even though it can be gusty, the onshore conditions are fun for jumping and riding.
8 Le Rozel
Le Rozel is located a few kilometres south of Sciotot, but offers very similar conditions. Le Rozel is also ideally located due to its north-south orientation when strong southerly winds batter the Cotentin peninsula. In Le Rozel, you should orientate yourself far to the left in southerly winds, towards the rocky Pointe de Rozel, where the waves break cleanly for front sideriders, especially when the water is running out. Even if the waves start to break in front of the rocky cape at high tide, you will always be washed up on sand if something goes wrong - which is another reason why surfing here is even more relaxed than in Sciotot. The fact that it is often busier here is more of an advantage than a disadvantage in the low season.
9 Le Pou
Directly on the south side of the rocky outcrop at Cap de Rozel is another beautiful wave spot: Le Pou. You can start in a NW wind directly below the cape at the small village of the same name, Le Pou, where the wind blows side- to sideonshore from the right. The waves are nicely organised, have plenty of power and allow for several front turns on the wave. At high tide, the shorebreak can get gnarly, but the wave itself doesn't hold any nasty surprises. You should only avoid the time around low tide, as this is when some rocks come out.
10 Hatainville
When you arrive at the water's edge in Hatainville, you'll be warm - it's a long way to go, as this spot is best surfed at low tide. The spot boasts a wide sandy beach and is a nice and empty alternative in S to SE winds blowing side- to side-offshore from the left: clean down-the-line rides and fat aerials are possible here in the south-east, provided you have the level for it; south winds are perfect for jumping. The waves break rather disorganised at high tide, very powerful at low tide, sometimes even hollow and, as everywhere, the current is also an issue. All in all, Hatainville is more of a tip for experienced wave surfers!
11 Barneville-Carteret
The small village of Barneville-Carteret is a viable alternative when the wind is blowing directly from the west and therefore flat onshore at the other spots. The bend in the coastline ensures that the westerly wind arrives here slightly onshore from the right and because the waves also turn around the headland, you can enjoy moderate jumping conditions not far from the harbour. Because the harbour breakwater and Cap Carteret block the swell somewhat, the wave height is comparatively smaller - definitely an advantage in westerly gales and big swells. If the wind shifts to the NW, you can also get on the water upwind of Cap de Carteret. NE thermals bring shallow water fun at Barneville-Plage, at low tide you should only watch out for a few stones.
Area information Cotentin
Journey
The best way to travel to northern Normandy is with your own campervan or motorhome. It is around 800 kilometres from Cologne to Cherbourg and just under 1300 kilometres from Berlin via a well-developed motorway network. There are toll charges of around 30 euros per route - large campervans over three metres in height pay around 50 percent more.
Wind, weather and neoprene recommendation
The Cotentin peninsula juts out into the English Channel like a thorn - with such an exposed location, it is no surprise that the region is one of the windiest in Europe. At Cap de la Hague, the wind blows at over four Beaufort on an annual average of almost two out of three days. The reason for this is the jet effect of the English Channel and the chapel effect, which ensures that westerly and easterly wind directions in particular are noticeably strengthened on the Cotentin peninsula. This is another reason why the wind frequency here is significantly higher than in Brittany. The greatest chance of strong winds is when Atlantic lows move through the English Channel from the west - in total, this is mainly the case between the end of August and December.
A warm 5/3 wetsuit can't hurt in the winter months, even in midsummer it can get chilly and the water temperatures are still cool at a maximum of 16 degrees. If you are hardy, you can in principle surf through the winter, with water temperatures rarely dropping below nine degrees even in February thanks to the warming Gulf Stream. Spring often surprises between March and June with constant thermal winds from the east to north-east, which are also strengthened locally and can provide good wave and freeride conditions. In the height of summer, you have to be a bit lucky to catch good conditions - but a gliding wind rate of just under 50 per cent is whining on a high level. You should be weatherproof at any time of year. The bottom line is that when travelling to the Cotentin, you should always have all your equipment with you.
Waves & Tides
If Brittany is too wild for you, the Cotentin peninsula could be just the thing for you! Although swells from the west rush up to the beaches on the west coast unchecked and often as high as a mast, especially in the winter months, there are plenty of alternatives to hide on the side facing away from the waves. Large swells are blocked by Brittany, especially during storms from the south-west or south, and arrive much more moderately - which is not necessarily a disadvantage. A look at the tide table is essential in view of the tidal range of almost seven metres. surf tip: On www.gezeitenfisch.com all weather data and tides are presented very clearly.
Living & Camping
In the high season (July/August), the otherwise quite secluded beaches of the Cotentin Peninsula are also well frequented, otherwise it is very tranquil here. Even in the digital age, guest rooms can still be found successfully via the local tourist offices. Wild camping is officially prohibited in France. In the low season, however, this is tolerated in many places, but in the high season you will be charged on the spot. There are also campsites close to some spots, here is a selection:
Bretteville
- Camping Anse De Brick: www.anse-du-brick.com
Collignon
- Camping Collignon: https://camping-collignon.simdif.com
- Camping Cotentin: https://camping-cotentin.fr
Urville-Nacqueville
- Camping Les Dunes: 426 Route du Fort, 50460 Urville-Nacqueville
Siouville
- Mairie Camping: 5 Rue Alfred Rossel, 50340 Siouville-Hague
- Camping De Clairefontaine: www.siouville-hague.com/camping-de-clairefontaine
- Camping Les Tourterelles: 17 Rue du Vieux Stade, 50340 Flamanville
Sciotot
- Camping Le Grand Large: www.legrandlarge.com
Rozel
- Camping Le Ranch: www.camping-leranch.com
Hatainville
- Camping Bel Sito: www.camping-normandie-belsito.com
- Camping Les Ronds Duval: www.camping-lesrondsduval.fr
Barneville-Carteret
- Camping La Gerfleur: 85 Rue Guillaume le Conquérant, 50270 Barneville-Carteret
- Camping Les Vikings: www.camping-lesvikings.com
Surf stations
The best way to get to the Cotentin is with your own equipment, so you remain flexible and can change spots depending on the wind. You will find hire centres almost exclusively in the "Club Nautiques", the water sports clubs - but the amount of equipment available is quite limited. In addition, the hire prices are often steep - 30 euros per hour can really spoil the fun of the sport. There are windsurfing clubs and centres in:
Collignon
École voile et vent de Tourlaville: www.evvt.net
Urville-Nacqueville
Pole Nautique Hague: www.polenautiquehague.com
Siouville/Diélette
Centre Nautique de Diélette: www.cndielette.com
Barneville-Carteret
Club Nautique de Barneville: www.ecnbc.fr
Shops, shapers & board repair
The best place to get a replacement for damaged equipment is in Cherbourg, at the Nausicaa surf shop (www.nausicaa.org). In Siouville there is also Kriss Custom, which you can hire for board repairs (www.krisscustom.com).
Shady sides
Northern Normandy is not a place for sun worshippers; when Atlantic lows pass through, it can get fresh and wet even in midsummer. As usual, you should not leave any valuables visible in your car in the larger towns.
Alternative programme
A surfer and/or SUP board definitely belongs in your luggage. Cherbourg, a city of 85,000 inhabitants, also has a lot to offer, such as the museum "La Cité de la Mer", which is dedicated to deep-sea research - including a nuclear submarine and 17 aquariums. On the east coast of Normandy, the landing museum on Utah Beach is well worth a visit - it was here and at other parts of the beach that the Allies carried out the largest landing operation in history on 6 June 1944. You can also take the two-hour trip to the legendary Mont-Saint-Michel monastery.
