Spots in this article:
Sometime in the autumn of 1812, somewhere in Russia in the depths of winter: the wind sweeps icy across the snow-covered paths, over which weary figures drag themselves. The remnants of the Grande Armée, on the retreat from Moscow. The Emperor of the defeated troops, Napoleon, on a horse, deeply hooded and frozen. Deep in the Russian winter, "Le Petit Corse" is probably longing for sunny Corsica, his home island.
Sometime in March 2018, somewhere in the deep wintery Ruhr region, where weary figures trudge along. With spring still a long way off and cold Siberian air from the Russian east dominating the weather and literally putting any thoughts of surfing at home on ice, I'm looking for warmer places for a surf trip.
Warm and sunny - Corsica as a little winter escape
And by chance, I come across a comic from my childhood, Asterix in Corsica: stinking cheese, blood feuds, deep gorges and endless forests with chestnuts and wild boar for Obelix, very proud and tradition-conscious people. A little research away from Asterix leads to the realisation that it is supposed to be warm and sunny there - and you can even surf!
A ferry is booked relatively quickly. And even if Facebook doesn't think much of privacy and can apparently even influence presidential elections, it also has positive aspects. Because someone knows someone who knows someone who knows someone in Corsica... And in just as short a time as it took to book the ferry, I'm in contact with locals who provide me with information.
Corsica is a "mountain in the sea"
Shortly afterwards, I set off for the south in high spirits. First of all, out of the seemingly eternally long winter here with us. And 24 hours later, the sun really does greet me over the Mediterranean. However, it illuminates one thing in particular: snow on the impressively high mountains. Corsica is also known as the "mountains in the sea". Over 50 peaks are more than 2000 metres high, the 2706 metre Monte Cinto is only just over 20 kilometres from the sea, which makes for a magnificent backdrop on the water. The citadel of Calvi, which watches over three surf spots in the bay of Calvi, is similarly impressive. On my first flight with the photo drone on the beach, I realise that at least some of the surf spots are well guarded in a completely different way. Less than five minutes after take-off, five heavily armed foreign legionnaires stand in front of me and stop my flight in a friendly but firm manner. At least they don't shoot the drone out of the sky straight away. Well, I could perhaps have remembered that the spot name "Legion" comes from the neighbouring Foreign Legion base.
The fact that not only the Foreign Legion is heavily armed can be seen on pretty much every place name sign, which are riddled with shotgun pellets or other calibres. The French place names are mostly crossed out to give more weight to the Corsican place names listed in parallel. It was not until 2004 that the Corsican separatists officially announced a ceasefire and shifted their efforts for an independent Corsica to a purely political level.
Important: Good wind and weather reports
Even today, the Corsicans are still Corsican and not French, a fact that is particularly noticeable among the immigrant mainland French, who now make up almost 40 per cent of the population. My most important informant during my stay is Jean-Charles, a lighthouse keeper by profession. Someone who not only has a view of many of the spots around the Ile de Rousse from his workplace high up at the lighthouse, but also has access to the weather reports of the military and commercial shipping, is definitely a good source for guiding me to the right spots.
And good information is important in Corsica. Due to the many mountains and valleys, the water in one bay can be as smooth as glass while perfect wave conditions prevail just a few kilometres away. Just a few degrees of wind direction can sometimes determine the quality of the conditions.
Fantastic secret spots and friendly locals
When everything fits, it's not just the magnificent landscape and crystal-clear, almost Caribbean water that make you think you're not in the Mediterranean, but above all the spot quality. While the shorebreak crashes onto the beach in Algajola, the locals guide me to their secret spot. And the waves that curve around the rocks at the end of the bay of "Junqi" are simply incredibly organised, clean and empty. I share the waves with just four locals and can hardly believe my luck. Not only because of the really good waves with side-offshore conditions, but also because of the view of the snow-capped mountains from the water.
After a really great day of surfing, we are promptly invited to dinner with the hospitable locals - surfing brings people together. Our host lives 30 kilometres from the coast, deep in the mountains - where the term "quiet location" is, for once, not an exaggeration on the part of the estate agents. I am spoilt with Corsican delicacies, including grandpa's brandy, and can understand more and more why people fall in love with this island or long for it like Napoleon.
I hope that this spot guide will help you on your trip to Corsica and help you find the best spots. If you are more programmed for shallow water, you should definitely study the Corsica South guide. You will realise: The freeride spots are just as fantastic as Corsica's wild north shore!
Corsica - the best windsurfing spots in the north of the island
1 Calvi
The bay of Calvi offers several spots that are relatively sheltered from the waves. At the Centre Nautique, directly at the harbour below the citadel, the best wind direction is NE. There is a standing area with a sandy beach on the shore, which is why this spot remains quite easy to ride and hardly causes any problems even for less experienced freeriders. Only in strong NE winds does the swell run into the bay. The necessary infrastructure can be found in the local surf club, only car parking spaces are somewhat scarce.
Flat water fans should pay a visit to the Plage du Club Olympique, located in the centre of the bay. Here you can surf with a great view of the citadel of Calvi, ideal are winds from W or NW, which then come diagonally onshore from the left to the beach. SW is also possible, but is gusty. The conditions here are usually uncomplicated flat water or bump & jump conditions, as the wide sandy beach is protected by breakwaters. The parking situation here is also more relaxed compared to the spot at the Centre Nautique.
The "Legion" spot, located at the northern end of the bay, is named after the Foreign Legion barracks opposite the entrance to the spot. The SW wind in particular is a little more constant here, there is a pebble beach with moderate waves when the wind shifts back from the north to the SW after a few days. There are no parking facilities here, a downwinder from Nautique over 600 metres or parking on the pebble beach are the solution.
2 Algajola
The spot has two faces: if the wind blows slightly offshore from the SW, it is a beautiful freeride and slalom spot with fantastic water colours and a wide sandy beach. If the wind shifts a few degrees to the west during a mistral period, Algajola becomes a wave spot with an impressive shore break. Experts will find the perfect playground for jumping and frontside riding here thanks to the powerful surf and sideshore wind from the left. The shorebreak becomes very challenging in stormy conditions. Windsurfing is possible in the northern part of the bay; in the village itself, in the southern part of the bay, the wind is too gusty and it is better to leave the waves to the surfers.
3 Ghjunchitu
Even the officials don't seem to agree on how to spell this spot; the locals affectionately call their world-class spot "Junqi". Difficult to find via a road through the holiday resort of Davia, the bumpy approach is worth it as soon as you see the waves bending around the rocky cape from the road. In SW, this spot can be one of the best down-the-line wave spots in the Mediterranean - mast-high sets with sideshore to sideoffshore winds allow long frontside rides and even aerials. The entry in the lee of the cape, including a swim into the wind range, as well as the rocks studded with sea urchins, make it clear that experienced surfers in particular should get on the water here. However, the wave itself is relatively easy to ride because it is very predictable. What you should avoid at all costs is getting out over the beach downwind of the spot. The shorebreak in Algajola is official, but here the big brother crashes onto the sand. However, the SW wind in "Junqi" is often much weaker than in Algajola. To land, just watch the locals who ride a wave into the lee after the session and then swim the last few metres. Be sure to take note: The road to the spot is a private road and offers little space, so please turn around before surfing and park at the side of the road so as not to block access.
4 Bodri
Bodri is more or less the bay downwind of Ghjunchitu; SW winds also work here, although only a few degrees in the wind direction make the difference. If Ghjunchitu is not running in weak Libecciu, Bodri can be a nice freeride to bump & jump spot, with a wide sandy beach and beach bar. However, you have to park relatively far above the spot and carry your equipment almost 600 metres. It is also only a little closer from the campsite.
5 L'ile-Rousse
At the Plage de la Gare within the city, the bay, shielded by the large harbour pier, is ideal for slalom and freeriding. The SW wind here is offshore and therefore gusty, but the water remains very smooth and invites you to practise your manoeuvres. Onshore NE winds can also bring some waves, although to be honest it has to be said that the conditions are much better elsewhere, e.g. in the bay of Calvi. Infrastructure can be found in L'ile-Rousse at the local Club Nautique, where you can also hire SUP boards, catamarans and windsurfing equipment. The only caveat: larger ferries dock and depart from the nearby harbour, so be careful here.
6 Lozari
Lozari can be a good alternative spot on windy days if the wind and shorebreak become too strong in Algajola. The beautiful sandy beach is similarly orientated and catches winds from W to WSW well, which then blows sideshore from the left and offers moderate waves for jumping around. Real surf waves are also possible in strong winds. NE winds are also easy to ride here, although it usually remains a small wind wave. There are bars, cafés and restaurants on the beach to round off a day of surfing in summer.
7 L'Ostriconi
Less than five kilometres north-east of Lozari, there is another alternative spot in case the Libecciu blows too strongly from south-west to west. The bay with its beautiful sandy beach is framed on the sides by rocks and offers a marvellous ambience. A WSW wind is ideal, which arrives diagonally onshore and quite constant and pushes beautiful waves. These break on sand and are not as hollow as on big days in Algajola, but you have to cope with some shorebreak here too. Sometimes there is a small standing area on the shore to help with launching and landing. The fact that there are usually only a few people on the water here is also due to the fact that you first have to scramble down the steep coast from the car park and can only set up at the bottom.
8 Saint-Florent
Further north, the Libecciu is usually not so strong, but this can be an advantage if it gets too windy at the other spots. The start is in Saint-Florent to the south-west of the harbour, where there is a beautiful sandy beach and campsites right next to the spot. At Plage de la Roja, the SW wind blows diagonally offshore and is a little gusty, while the west is ideal and relatively constant. As there is a standing area on the shore and the water remains smooth even in strong winds, the large bay is also ideal for less experienced surfers.
9 Macinaggio
Almost at the northern end of Corsica, near Cap Corse, right next to the marina in Macinaggio is one of the best wave spots on the island. When Corsica comes under the influence of low pressure in winter, an excellent reef wave runs here from the south-east at Scirocco to leeward, with the wind coming sideshore from the right. The current is noticeable and you should definitely have some wave experience. In westerly wind directions, the spot shows its tame face, then you will find flat water for heating and jibing. The harbour has the necessary infrastructure and there are also several campsites close to the spot.
General information Corsica North
Journey
The best way to travel to Corsica is by motorhome - ferry connections with Corsica Linea and Corsica Ferries are available from Marseille, Toulon and Nice to Porto Vecchio, Ajaccio or the ferry ports of Bastia and L'ile-Rousse. Depending on the route, the crossing takes between 12-13 hours. An alternative is to start the crossing from the Italian mainland - with Moby Lines you can reach Bastia from Livorno and Genoa in five to seven hours and usually even cheaper. Depending on the season, route and vehicle size, prices for a crossing range between 80 and 300 euros each way.
Information about the ferry connections:
- www.corsicalinea.com
- www.corsicaferries.it
- www.mobylines.fr
It is also possible to fly to Bastia - airlines such as Lufthansa, Eurowings or Austrian Airlines charge from 150 euros upwards for the flight. As always, check the baggage conditions and register your surf baggage in advance!
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations
Pleasant summers, mild winters - that's how you could summarise the climate on Corsica. Because temperatures rarely fall below 10° Celsius even in winter (water approx. 13° Celsius), France's largest island can be considered a year-round destination, provided you have a thick 5/3 neo. In midsummer, the thermometer climbs up to 30 degrees (water: 24 degrees), but the nights usually remain pleasantly cool.
If you can avoid the main holiday season, April to the end of June and the end of August to the end of October are the ideal times to go, with plenty of wind and pleasant temperatures of around 25 degrees. In contrast to the spots to the south on the Strait of Bonifacio, the north of the island does not benefit from the jet effect between Corsica and Sardinia. With an average of 30 to 40 per cent gliding wind, the rate is therefore significantly lower than that of Bonifacio (45-60 per cent). So it's always worth looking southwards. The most common wind directions in northern Corsica are the Mistral (NW-W) blowing across the Mediterranean from the Rhone Valley, the warm Libecciu (SW) and the Scirocco (SE). These wind directions can also bring the wave spots of the Northshore to life. Overall, the wind conditions range from full throttle with a 3.7 to a cosy freeride ride with big equipment. Regardless of the temperatures, surf shoes can't hurt at many wave spots in the north due to the presence of sea urchins and rocky inlets.
Living & Camping
Corsica offers everything the heart desires - whether for camping fans or luxury holidaymakers. If you are looking to maximise your surfing time, you can react better to the changing wind and weather conditions with your own camper. Wild camping is generally prohibited in Corsica and is also subject to heavy fines. However, if you arrive early in the season, you will have difficulty finding open campsites.
Here is a selection close to the spot:
Calvi
- U Libecciu: www.vacances-ulvf.com
- International: https://camping-calvi.fr
- La Pinede: www.camping-calvi.com
- La Cle de Champs: www.calvi-cledeschamps.fr/de
- Bella Vista: www.camping-calvi-bellavista.com
- Paduella: www.campingpaduella.com
- Dolce Vita: https://dolce-vita-calvi.com/de
Algajola
- De La Plage: www.camping-de-la-plage-en-balagne.com
- A Marina: www.marinacamping.fr
Bodri
- Le Bodri: www.campinglebodri.com/fr
L'île-Rousse
- Oliviers: www.camping-oliviers.com/de/zu-hause
L' Ostriconi
- Village Ostriconi: www.village-ostriconi.com
Saint-Florent
- Call list
- U Pezzo: www.upezzo.com
- L' Acqua Dolce: www.campingacquadolce.fr
Macinaggio
- De La Plage: https://camping-u-stazzu.jimdo.com
Surf stations & hire
In France, the "Club Nautiques" in particular often have all water sports equipment in their portfolio, even though they are often not typical windsurfing centres. Ascent equipment or SUP boards for a calm day are almost always available - there are clubs in Calvi, L'ile Rousse, Saint-Florent and Macinaggio. However, the wave spots in the north are reserved for individualists, so you can't avoid bringing your own equipment. Exception: the "Sport et Nature" centre (www.algajola-sportetnature.com) in Algajola.
Surf shops
If you destroy your equipment at the crashing wave spots in the north, you can get a replacement - but only in the south of the island:
- Tam Tam Bonifacio: www.tam-tam.fr
- Alizé Porto Vecchio
Alternative programme
Corsica is pure nature! If there is no wind, the island with its wild mountains, some of which start right on the coast, offers the perfect playground for those who have a mountain bike with them. Hiking trails, some of which run completely across the island, such as Mare a Mare Nord, or through the Spelunca Gorge, are among the most beautiful in the world, and even short sections offer views of the island that will stay with you for a long time. Another good tip: the Scandola Nature Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you prefer to be out on the water, you should bring a SUP board or a surfer, swells are possible regardless of the wind and the countless bays are as beautiful as the hinterland.
Shady sides
The price level in France is often in the upper league, and Corsica is unfortunately no exception. As usual, you should not leave valuables in the car in larger towns. Some of the wave spots are tough and require experience, but there are also more moderate alternatives in the south of the island.
This spot guide first appeared in surf 8/2018
