For North Germans, the South Sea is not far away. Just 60 kilometres as the crow flies lie between Flensburg and the Danish South Sea, known in Danish as Det Sydfynske Øhav (South Funen Archipelago). Denmark and the South Seas - many people have question marks in their heads, but in summer Det Sydfynske Øhav is actually a fantastic water sports area with a South Seas feeling and perhaps the most popular paddling area in Denmark for kayakers. I have already made numerous tours there by sea kayak from my home town of Flensburg. Now it was time to test what I could do on a SUP board. Quite spontaneously, I loaded up my three-wheeled Piaggio Ape Classic with board and luggage, then took the ferry to Ærø to explore the coast from the board.
Start in Søby
After just under an hour's journey from Fynshav, the electric ferry "Ellen" spits me ashore in Søby. Right next to the marina, I find a beach that is just crying out for me to put my board in the water and get ready to go. Getting ready to go means nothing more than stowing the waterproof equipment under the luggage straps, parking my Ape near the water, grabbing the paddle and getting on the board. After a few paddle strokes, I take a deep breath and switch into flow mode. "Ærø - here I am," I murmur over the slightly rippled surface of water in front of me. A great feeling gives me a slight tingling sensation that runs through my whole body like goose bumps. I whistle "Summer Dreaming" in time with my paddle strokes. The Bacardi song fits like a glove: "Come on over have some fun, dancing in the morning sun. Looking to the bright blue sky, come on let your spirit fly..." My soul really does soar over the Danish South Sea. Blue water, blue sky and rays of sunshine that tickle the skin - that's how it should be, no, that's how it has to be!
Heading south-east, I aim for the narrow headland that stretches northwards from Ærøskøbing, describing an arc. Sailors have to keep to the marked fairway much further north. I don't need more than one paddle length of water depth, so I can stay as close to the shore as I like if I have to. As the wind and waves don't look like they want to put me to the test, I let the distance to the shore increase with a good feeling and savour the feeling of freedom that is particularly enjoyable on my little nutshell. Less is really not so rarely more. Every now and then, the water laps at the top of my board and cools my feet. It makes me feel particularly connected to the Baltic Sea. "Living it up this brand-new day, summer sun it's time to play. Doing things that feel so good. Get into the motion ..." The "Summer Dreaming" lyrics could have been written by a stand-up paddler.
Just before Ærøskøbing, there is a narrow natural beach where hikers or people like me can pitch their tents. A picnic table promises additional comfort. This makes decisions easy. I check in, which means nothing more than occupying two square metres of grass for my mini tent and taking a seat at the restaurant - aka picnic table. Further out in "my" bay, an old two-master is anchored. The atmosphere is almost kitschy. The next Bacardi advert could easily be filmed here.
Lucky day or simply hygge
I'm glad to be able to put on my thin down jacket for breakfast. But the sun doesn't need much height on this clear day to immerse my spot in a South Sea atmosphere again. By eight o'clock I'm back on the water, dressed for summer. The conditions are perfect. I postpone breakfast for another half hour. On the headland off Ærøskøbing, I'm sure I'll find a nice spot at one of the colourful bathhouses. It's only two and a half kilometres away. So get on your board and head over to the huts, which look like little Lego houses from a distance. The term "hygge" means "traditional cosiness" in Danish. It fits this place perfectly. There are still no walkers about. I am alone and enjoy the morning atmosphere in front of a poisonous green wooden hut with a magnificent view over the shallow bay. There's something exclusive about enjoying your first coffee here. "Just another lucky day. No one makes me feel this way ..."
Marstal is waiting for me. I will probably cover 15 to 18 kilometres today. Pure paddling time is around three to four hours. As the weather is expected to hold, there's plenty of time for exploring on land. I leave my board and luggage on the beach and take a short sightseeing detour on foot to Ærøskøbing. The island's main town is nicknamed the fairytale town. Ærøskøbing would indeed be perfect for a fairytale film set: small colourful houses with blooming roses right next to the entrances, cobblestone streets, cosy cafés and pubs, a tranquil harbour and residents who give the impression that they simply feel at home here - that's how I perceive the small town of around 1000 inhabitants. The exact history is not known. However, it is assumed that the name dates back to the 15th century. Ærøskøbing is said to be one of the most beautiful small towns in Denmark. This does not seem to me to be a far-fetched advertising slogan to attract visitors. In my opinion, skipping Ærøskøbing when visiting Ærø would be a big mistake.
Between sky and water
Now I have a wide arc around Ærøskøbing on the water ahead of me. Thanks to the persistently SUP-friendly conditions, I can cross the bay between Ærøskøbing and Ommel, which extends far to the south, in a short distance to the north and even leave Halmø on my right. Behind Halmø I am almost two kilometres from the shore. If a fresh offshore wind suddenly came up, I might have a problem reaching Ærø's shore again. But firstly, there is no recognisable danger of a freshening wind and secondly, Egholm, Birkholm, Bredholm or Strynø Kalv would offer themselves as spontaneous destinations if the worst came to the worst. A southerly wind could push me onto these inviting islets. But instead of dwelling too much on possible subjunctives, I prefer to soak up the reality to the full. Six beats left, six beats right - that's the rhythm I've picked up. Again, I catch myself singing the chorus of "Summer Dreaming" to myself: "What I'm feeling.
It's never been so easy..." So, flooded with elation, I glide between the blue sky and the green-blue South Sea water, slowly but steadily approaching the shore towards my destination for the day, Marstal. To the east lies Langeland and between Ærø and Langeland there is a huge blue carpet that serves as a "highway" to the Danish South Sea for many German sailors. Shortly before the harbour entrance, the water becomes livelier. The fairway is narrow here and I also have to thread my way carefully into the crowd of incoming ships.
If you want to change sides of the fairway here, you should definitely keep an eye on the sailing and motorboat traffic from both directions. With over 500 berths, Marstal is the largest marina on the island. The usual hustle and bustle of the harbour disappears behind the last jetty. There you will find the boathouse of the Marstal Kayak Club (marstalkajakklub.dk). With almost 18 kilometres in my wake, I'm delighted to have arrived at such a beautiful spot and get permission from club members who are locking up their boats in the shed to pitch my tent for the night. My summary of the day: perfectly happy.
The home of the seafarers
If you stroll through Marstal, it's hard to miss the fact that the largest town on Ærø has a particularly close connection to seafaring. Nautical officers are still trained here today at the maritime school, which is over 150 years old. Seafaring has a long tradition here: Marstal used to be the second most important seafaring town in Denmark after Copenhagen. Around 300 large sailing ships had their home harbour here. If you want to immerse yourself in the seafaring tradition, you don't have to walk far. The Maritime Museum is just round the corner. Founded in 1929, the museum has a unique collection of maritime exhibits. What strikes you on a tour is the special love with which the museum operators have managed to furnish the numerous rooms in the former packing house with exhibits in such a way that you really feel like you are travelling back in time on a tour. The relatively small exhibition rooms convey a very intimate atmosphere. I have already visited several maritime museums. The Marstal Maritime Museum trumps them all.
The fact that you are walking through a harbour and shipbuilding town becomes clear even on a tour of the town without a specific destination. Everywhere you look, you can see decorations on the facades of houses that point to Marstal's connection with the sea and seafaring. The small, colourful old houses frame narrow streets, some of which are still paved with cobblestones, giving the impression that you are walking on historic terrain. Small pubs and restaurants and a supermarket make it easy for visitors to satisfy their individual needs. While you're in Marstal, don't miss a visit to the narrow headland of Eriks Hale. It is located just a few hundred metres from the marina. Small, colourful wooden huts line the narrow beach. Eriks Hale belongs to Marstal like the waves belong to the sea and can undoubtedly be considered a landmark of this enchanting little town. Summer dreaming - where else but here: "Watch the waves and feel the sand, kiss me now and take my hand. Hear all the laughter in the street. Smiling in the summer heat."
Return journey with obstacles
Two Danish paddlers said goodbye to me in Marstal this morning as if I was setting off on an arduous expedition. In fact, I just want to get back to Søby, but shortly before Dejrø I realise that I've ventured too far out onto the water. The offshore southerly wind has picked up noticeably and is now pushing me mercilessly northwards, making me nervous to an extent that doesn't really feel good. Where could I end up if I ran out of energy? Perhaps on the island of Drejø, eight kilometres to the north? How would I get back to Ærø from there?
Before I start having any more negative thoughts, I decide to go into full power ahead mode and try my luck with a windward-leeward south-westerly course. I leave Dejrø behind me, but am once again hit by biting southerly gusts. In a north-south direction, it feels like I'm standing still. "No further north", I chatter to myself like a mantra in time with my paddle strokes. Albeit slowly, I'm getting closer to the eastern shore of the land hook north of Ærøskøbing. That calms me down a little. But the wind still grips me and my board with sharp claws. It takes me almost half an hour to complete the toughest kilometre of my Ærø trip, which is actually classed as summer dreaming. Finally ashore! My shoulders, arms and entire upper body send a clear message to my brain: "Enough!" My consciousness doesn't fight back. The logistics should be easy to manage. Take the bus to Søby to pick up the Ape, back to Ærøskøbing, load up and head home. But first I take a short walk to help the adrenaline rush subside.
On the western shore of the headland, I am presented with a picture that completely overturns the plan I had just made: calm water with only small waves that don't radiate any potential danger. I scratch the back of my head and look north-west, following the coastline of Ærø. Everything is calm. The offshore wind only makes itself felt further away from the shore in the form of larger waves. In fact, I can even expect a slight boost on the way to Søby. So back to plan A and back on the water, but this time with a shortcut over land. I only have to carry my board and luggage 250 metres, so I'm quickly on the other side of the headland. That's comparatively comfortable. The route on the water around the long headland would have been almost six kilometres long, the last third of which would have meant hardcore paddling again. To make up for my loss of energy, I make myself comfortable in the lee of a blue wooden hut and treat myself to tuna and bread. Not for gourmets, but more than conducive to energy regeneration. In the best of moods and charged with renewed euphoria, I put my luggage on the board, push the board into deeper water and set off on the last stage. I still have twelve kilometres to go.
Danger of addiction in the South Seas
Ærø glides calmly past me. Mindful of staying close to land, I keep close to the wind-cheating shoreline. My return to Plan A was probably the best idea I had today. Two hours ago, I was pretty much certain that this little adventure was going to end. Now I feel as if Aeolus, the god of the wind, wants to apologise to me for the tough test he has put me through.
So much can change so quickly. Once again, I realise that things often turn out differently than you think, and that this is exactly what can be so appealing when you are looking for new horizons or exciting experiences. The bottom line is that after every experience, after every short or long journey or adventure, there is a little more on the credit side. This more cannot be compared with material things. Allow me to quote one last fitting passage from the song lyrics that have now been quoted several times: "All the years I've cried before, they can't touch me anymore..." Safe and sound, deeply satisfied, enriched by new experiences and a little exhausted after paddling a total of 50 kilometres, I set up my tent again in Søby. Tomorrow I take the ferry back to the mainland. The last entry in my diary is addressed to the Danish South Sea: "I'll be back soon."
Precinct information Ærø
Waters, weather
The Danish South Sea is part of the Baltic Sea and lies between the islands of Ærø and Fyn. The area is a first-class paddling destination with comparatively short distances between a large number of small islands. As a stand-up paddler, you have almost unlimited possibilities here, as long as the weather co-operates. It is therefore highly advisable to check the current weather forecast before every trip and adapt your course accordingly. If in doubt, the author recommends taking a day off rather than taking too many risks.
Equipment
The equipment must match the weather and season. The dress code can range from board shorts plus a T-shirt to a dry suit. From a safety perspective, a leash and, in more difficult conditions, a buoyancy aid (e.g. Restube or life jacket) are advisable. A fully charged mobile phone with a saved emergency number should be a matter of course on such tours.
Best time
SUP boards are the most comfortable way to travel in summer. But even outside the high season, there are suitable weather windows that make a trip to the Danish South Sea a special experience. In extreme cases, wind and ice set very clear limits beyond which nothing works.
Onwards to the Danish South Sea
Other islands can be visited from Ærø as part of a generous island-hopping circuit. Starting from Søby, for example: 8.5 km - Avernakø; 9 km - Drejø; 6 km - Hjortø; 6 km - Birkholm; 9 km - Marstal; 24 km - Søby. Depending on the harbours visited, this would result in a round trip of 50 to 70 kilometres. These islands can of course also be reached individually. Many of the islands are served by ferries, but not all of them run to Ærø or the mainland. This should be taken into account when planning your time and route.
Spend the night outdoors
There are both official campsites near the water (e.g. Marstal and Søby) and primitive overnight sites (called udinaturen) where you can pitch your tent. See web information below. Camping near the harbour may also be permitted after consultation with the harbour master. Important: ask first, then pitch your tent.
Maps
Detailed map (Danish): bit.ly/3FG9NGh
Further web info
- Ærø Tourist Office: visitaeroe.de
- Ferries to and from Ærø: aeroe-ferry.dk/en
- Book a shelter on Ærø: udinaturen.dk
- Camping Søby: soeby-camping.dk
- Camping Marstal: marstalcamping.dk
- Holiday cottages on Ærø: aeroeferiehus.dk/en
- Marstal Kayak Club: marstalkajakklub.dk (SUP courses are also offered there)
