"Watch out - rocks ahead!" This exclamation is typical of some sections of the Bavarian Regen between Nittenau and Ramspau. More on why paddlers should not only enjoy the beautiful landscape, but also always take a look at the water in front of the bow of the SUP board later. So much in advance: this wonderful river has a lot to offer both above and below the water.
From Blaibach to Regensburg, the Regen is an excellent waterway. For a day trip, a weekend tour or a tour covering the entire 107 kilometres - the Regen is a wonderful waterway for all stand-up paddlers. Up to the confluence with the Danube in the centre of Regensburg, a varied landscape awaits with natural forests, calm river sections and easy WW I white water. For long stretches, you paddle through green countryside with few settlements or villages. Signposts provide information about rest areas, put-in, take-out and transfer points or overnight accommodation. All in all, a marvellous combination of nature and leisure activity!
We have chosen the stage from Nittenau to Ramspau as our day trip, which is often described as the most scenic section. Around 21 kilometres lie ahead of us.
Practical starting point
The start of our tour is right in the centre of Nittenau. If you are travelling by camper and would like to stay overnight, there is a campsite at the outdoor pool that also rents out camping barrels for up to four people. You can also launch your SUP there. For everyone else, the large car park by the bridge, right next to the river Regen, offers good parking options. The official access point with steps is just a few metres downstream. If you don't want to inflate your board in the car park, you can use the spacious and shady meadow around the access point. As there aren't really any places to stop along the entire route, we had planned a good breakfast in the village. But beware: on Sundays, at least, we only had half a duck with red cabbage shortly before twelve. That lasts a long time, but next time we'll pack enough food and drink in our dry bags.
After we - the clever paddlers among us - have put foldable river fins in the fin boxes for shallow passages, we launch our inflatable touring boards and start on the side channel of the Regen, which is only a few metres narrow, and we first go through the village for a while. After the confluence with the main branch, the river immediately becomes much wider and initially flows leisurely out of Nittenau. After the road bridge over the course of the river, the first large patches of seaweed come into view, requiring us to paddle carefully and take evasive action. We also see the first larger stones - they are all still above the surface of the water, so they are clearly visible and pose no problems.
After just over five kilometres and 50 minutes of paddling, we reach the village of Hof am Regen, which lies on the left bank. Hof Castle, built on a granite rock, is difficult to recognise in the village. It is not as important as the other castles and palaces in the region, but for centuries it was home to the Bavarian aristocracy of Hof. The original appearance of the castle can only be guessed at today. The treasures are hidden behind walls a good two and a half metres thick. A good 1.5 kilometres further on, we catch sight of Stefling Castle, which is much more visible. The place was first mentioned in a document around 996. In 1196, when the Counts of Stefling died out, the castle became the property of the Bavarian duke. The castle is privately owned, which is why it is unfortunately not possible to visit.
Test of courage or towing
At Stefling, a weir blocks our further paddling. The long inclined weir directs the water towards the power station on the left bank. The weir itself is not navigable, which is why a transfer to the right bank is necessary - but there is also the option of manoeuvring the board through the narrow fish pass. If you dare, try squatting or standing on the board. The transfer point is clearly recognisable by a large sign at the start of the inclined weir, and getting out is easy. The SUP then has to be carried around 300 metres along the tarmac road.
If you want to navigate the narrow fish pass, it is best to check the water depth and possible obstacles in advance. We decide together that today is a good day. As we enter, we realise that the entry bend to the left has to be taken with pinpoint accuracy in order to achieve the best possible alignment for navigating the fish pass, which then requires repeated smaller and even two larger steering manoeuvres in order to get down the main current.
We somehow manage it - only Stephan stops halfway down, shoots a few pictures and had probably left the photo case lying quite casually on the board half pulled ashore. Shortly afterwards, the suitcase bounces wildly down the current like a pinball - with a photographer running and jumping wildly through the nettles alongside. After successfully catching the suitcase - but not with dry clothes - we get lost in the mangrove-like, branching watercourses behind the fish pass and have to paddle back a short distance against the current. Hence the tip: after the fish pass, keep to the left as far as possible to get back into the main course of the Regen as quickly as possible. Behind the weir, the river has a good flow speed, which we are happy to take with us, so we can now continue really quickly.
After a short drink break on the boards, we quickly leave Stefling behind us. The rain briefly turns northwards. The valley becomes narrower here, the river narrower. The forest cover increases noticeably. The green landscape frames the river in all its facets. We paddle through pure nature. But what also increases: the dangers lurking underwater. From here on, the rain is peppered with small and large stones and shallows. After Stefling, you need to paddle very carefully to avoid taking an involuntary dip in the water. The first few metres are still accident-free for us. Still.
At the small, idyllic village of Marienthal, the rain changes direction radically - from east to west now to north to south. Almost on a direct route to Regensburg. Hidden in the forest and barely visible from the water are the ruins of Stockenfels Castle, which are well worth seeing. The oldest part of the castle was built around 1338, but since the middle of the 17th century the castle has been in ruins except for the residential tower. If you want to climb up to the castle, it is best to park your SUP where a small boat takes pedestrians across the river. Guided tours are regularly organised at the castle ruins, as well as knights' dinners and a castle Christmas.
nWe paddle on, and then it happens: Not paying attention, overlooking one of the large rocks under the water and Stephan flies over the bow into the water. It's a good thing that he had just stowed his camera safely back in the case at that moment and no longer had it in his hand. And at least he didn't have to carry the complete change kit in his rucksack for nothing. Some of the stones are clearly visible above the waterline, but some are also nasty below it. And then often so close underneath that we get stuck with the fins. River fins that fold up when touched are no disadvantage here. The dark colour of the water and the light conditions in the late afternoon don't exactly help us to spot the stones in time. Paddling particularly carefully in the section from Marienthal to Hirschling helps, but does not protect one hundred per cent from falling.
Self-catering tour
Hirschling offers a good opportunity to take another break. Unfortunately, there are fewer places to stop along the river, so we unpack the snacks we have brought with us and enjoy the view of the river and the peace and quiet. Then we have the last five kilometres to Ramspau, our destination for the day. The disturbing stones become fewer, the river meanders through the countryside. In our destination of Ramspau, a castle with unusual architecture awaits us - with a hipped roof and four round corner towers with octagonal tops, which in turn are surmounted by onion domes. And a yellow coat of paint to boot. There is probably no other castle like it, we say to each other as we high-five at the end of the tour. On our 21 kilometre section, we got a very good impression of the River Regen, which makes us want more!
