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The automatic door of San Francisco airport opens and we breathe in the Pacific air of California's fog-covered coast for the first time. As we drag our board bags to the kerb, images of endless coastal roads, windswept beaches and the romance of camping flit through our minds.
Our friend from San Francisco, local Graham Fedderson, pulls up his oversized Chevrolet Suburban at the side of the road with gangster rap blaring out of the speakers. A collage of scuffed stickers including "I take care of my beaches" lend character to his dirty truck. Thanks to sophisticated packing technology, our assortment of seven windsurfing and surfing boards finds space next to Graham's surfing gear - which is still wet, a good sign. Graham drops us off at the Escape Campervan Depot, where we see what will be our hotel on wheels for the next few weeks for the first time - a colourfully painted van with a bed, fridge, cooking area and, most importantly, sturdy roof racks.
With our first burrito - that popular Mexican pastry filled with minced meat, rice and vegetables - in hand, we step on the gas. Our destination is the coast north of San Francisco all the way up to Oregon. But first we pay a visit to San Francisco's city spot, Crissy Fields.
Windsurfing under the Golden Gate Bridge
The sight of the 2.7 kilometre long and 227 metre high Golden Gate Bridge, in front of which windsurfers and kitesurfers cavort, is breathtaking. The wind whistles through the bay and after so many kilometres of flying and so many kilos dragged, our senses are revived with the first breath of air and the view of one of the world's top 10 structures.
With huge container ships gliding into the bay and helicopters flying under the bridge, we feel like windsurfing dwarves. We couldn't have thought of a more fitting welcome than a session under the Californian landmark. As we turn onto the winding Highway No. 1 in the evening with the last of the evening light and a second burrito in our stomachs, our journey along the wild Pacific coast really begins. Our first destination: Bodega Bay.
The next morning at Doran Regional Park - a small spit of land that separates the harbour of Bodega from the large bay - the howling wind and the foghorn sounding at regular intervals shake us out of our sleep. A first look outside leads to a search for warm clothes - not exactly the reason for travelling to California. As we walk around the campsite, we discover an information board that tells us that the world's largest population of great white sharks lives here, between the coast and the offshore Farallon Islands. Great!
Windsurfing in Bodega Bay
The water in the large bay seems extremely shallow, even the mini fins of our freestyle boards seem to reach their limits here. To our surprise, we spot a few windsurfers around two kilometres to the north, at the harbour of Bodega Bay. Nevertheless, we decide to wait for the tide to come in so that we can set off directly from the campsite and rig our 4.0 sails. When we set foot in ankle-deep water with a 40-knot headwind, every step is difficult. After ten steps against the storm, we are panting like old steam engines, 100 feels like a marathon and the water is still ankle-deep.
After 30 minutes of walking, we've had enough, surf a few strokes in the channel leading to the harbour and curse ourselves for not having done the same as the other windsurfers and gone straight onto the water at the harbour.
On Highway No.1 heading north of the USA
With our heads down, we decide to turn our backs on Bodega and continue north along Highway No. 1. Every bend reveals a new breathtaking scenery with endless beaches and cliffs surrounded by waves. There's no rush, because the forecast makes it clear: we won't be short of good windsurfing conditions. We set off along the Avenue of Giants to look for a place to camp for the night. Here in the Humboldt Redwoods State Park are some of the largest trees in the world, reaching heights of over 110 metres and some of them are 1500 years old.
An hour later, Californian sweet potatoes rolled up in aluminium foil lie in the campfire, with white sea bass, peppers and artichokes sizzling in olive oil next to them. The next morning is no exception, as a big American breakfast is the best way to start the day. Here at the Redwood Café, the size of the portions of omelettes and hash browns, the American style of potato pancakes, is apparently based on the size of the trees in the neighbourhood. Gigantic!
Shallow water action in Big Lagoon
Stuffed like Christmas geese, we roll on up the 101 motorway towards Big Lagoon. We check in at a campsite and if you want to get straight from the van onto the board, this is the place to be. With slalom equipment, I spend a couple of hours sweeping across the smooth water, alternating between bright sunshine and billowing banks of mist that bathe everything in a surreal light.
The weather system up here is pretty simple: southerly winds like today in Big Lagoon tend to blow lightly and bring cloudy weather, while a northerly current ensures clear air, sunshine and strong winds in the afternoon. And because the forecast promises the latter weather constellation for the spots on the other side of the Oregon border, we continue our journey towards Pistol River and Cape Sebastian full of anticipation.
Down the Line in Pistol River
Here we finally experience what we came here for: Real "coast days", when the difference between hot air over the mainland and cold ocean water creates strong thermals. At the Pistol River spot, which is also known as "The Rock" and has been a tour stop on the International Windsurfing Tour (IWT) for many years, the smallest sails are the order of the day for days on end. A diagonal onshore wind shovels 1-a jump ramps onto the beach here. When the sometimes choppy shorebreak gives you a beating, you realise how cold the Pacific Ocean actually is here: the water temperature sometimes drops to just twelve degrees. But because the air is very pleasant and warm, it doesn't matter.
The locals in Pistol River are relaxed, there is plenty of space on the water and so they are happy to share their knowledge and explain the spots in the surrounding area to us: as a result, we even get to enjoy clean down-the-line waves with cross-offshore winds at Cape Sebastian in the following days. Nearby Gold Beach even offers a truly world-class wave spot called The Jetty. Although we were told it was safe to surf here, the number of seals and sea lions swimming around is so intimidating that we couldn't bring ourselves to go out on the water at first. It wasn't until a few days later that we risked sharing the water with 100 sea lions due to the great conditions and the persuasive skills of some locals - the biggest adrenaline rushes that day were definitely not caused by the waves.
A detour to Floras Lake seems like a relaxing cure in view of the experiences off Gold Beach: warmer, smooth water, a campsite and a small rental centre directly at the spot - here you can simply leave your equipment rigged up overnight in front of the van and let the fins glow the next day.
When we have to start our return journey after two weeks, we realise that we actually need more time to unearth all the gold treasures in this region. We'll be back to the land north of the golden gate.
The windsurfing spots on the west coast of the USA
1) Bodega Harbour
About an hour and a half's drive north of San Francisco is Bodega Harbour, a sheltered spot that is almost completely closed off from the sea by a headland. The bay is mostly too shallow for windsurfing at low tide, but you can usually get enough water under your fin in front of the Bodega Harbour Yacht Club. In NW winds, which often break the 30-knot barrier here, the water remains quite smooth apart from a few chops and is well suited for tricks, heating and for climbers. Watch out for the sandbanks at low tide! You can camp in the nearby Doran Regional Park, and there are at least a few shops, cafés and restaurants in the town itself. However, the fact that the area is considered "sharky" does not necessarily contribute to relaxation.
2) Clam Beach
With its dune landscapes and extensive sandy beaches, Clam Beach is reminiscent of the Danish North Sea coast. Clam Beach County Park is located just under six kilometres north of the small town of McKinleyville with its 15,000 inhabitants - where there is all the necessary infrastructure such as supermarkets, bars and restaurants. The beautiful sandy beach here slopes very gently, which means that the waves break in several lines and are quite moderate. Depending on the swell and wind strength, there are spot conditions ranging from bump & jump to real surf waves. Apart from the big days, even less experienced waveriders can manage well. The NW wind blows diagonally onshore from the right and makes for good jumping and riding conditions. There is a campsite right next to the spot.
3) Big Lagoon
If you continue north on Highway 101 from Clam Beach, after 25 kilometres you will reach Humboldt Lagoons State Park, whose three lagoons are separated from the Pacific Ocean by narrow spits of land. The southernmost and largest lagoon, the six-kilometre-long Big Lagoon, is particularly suitable for windsurfing. From the Big Lagoon County Campground on the southern shore of the lake, you can enter the water via a sandy beach and practice manoeuvres in very safe and easy conditions in NW winds. Even in strong winds, the water always remains smooth - apart from a few wind waves. Apart from the campsite, there is no infrastructure worth mentioning here - just peace and quiet and beautiful scenery, which is also perfect for a SUP excursion. S winds are also easy to ride on the eastern shore and are usually moderate. After the bridge over the lagoon, take the second turn-off. Look out for a dirt track behind a white gate and ride down to the water.
4) Crescent City
You should pay a visit to Crescent City, a town of 7500 inhabitants, for two reasons. Firstly, the surf spot. Coming from Highway 101, you can reach South Beach at the southern end of the town via Anchor Way, where you will find moderate waves with wind from the left in southerly winds. Further south, the waves get even bigger. The second highlight of the area is the nearby Redwood Forest, where many of the world's largest trees tower well over 100 metres into the sky - a trip there is the perfect alternative to a lull. Crescent City is also home to various restaurants, bars and accommodation of all kinds. A few kilometres to the north, you leave California behind and reach Oregon.
5) Pistol River / The Rock
One of Oregon's highlights is undoubtedly the Pistol River spot, which has become famous thanks to the tour stops of the International Windsurfing Tour (IWT). Around 1.7 kilometres north of the river, there is a small car park on the left-hand side where you can rig up on grass. The thermals from the north-west are strongest here, often blowing at over 30 knots, so that you can get the smallest cloths out of the vehicle. Even without a real swell, there are always a few wind waves rolling onto the beach, which you can use for big jumps and wave rides when the wind blows diagonally onshore from the right. On normal days, Pistol River is a nice playground for wave novices and pros and not particularly dangerous. The backdrop at the spot, also known as "The Rock", is unique - the beach, the green hinterland and the characteristic rock formations make every session an experience. If there is a swell from the SW to NW, Pistol River also gets big and the shore break is really tough. Infrastructure such as shops and restaurants can be found in nearby Gold Beach, where there are also several campsites at the northern end of the village.
6) Cape Sebastian
Two kilometres north of Pistol River lies another pearl of the region. We park at a viewpoint directly on the road, rigged down on the beach. The wind wave from the north-west has to turn in a little further than in Pistol River and is usually much smaller. SW to W swell is perfect and provides clean down-the-line conditions with wind from the right for the very best wave riding and aerials. The best conditions here are in the morning and evening, but it is often very gusty in the afternoon. There are massive rocks to leeward, which you can't miss but should still avoid. In combination with the gusty wind and the very cold water, Cape Sebastian is more of a tip for experienced wave surfers. There is infrastructure, accommodation and several campsites in nearby Gold Beach.
7) The Jetty
At the northern end of Gold Beach, follow the signs for "Municipal Airport" and park on Oceanside Drive, 200 metres downwind of the jetty, where you can enter the water via a sandy beach. Jetty catches both real swell and the usual wind wave from the NW, here too it often blows at 30 knots plus X. Depending on the wind angle, you can enjoy clean waves between waist and mast high, the wind blows sideshore from the right. You should avoid the spot when the water is running out, as there is a strong current in combination with the Rogue River, which flows into the sea not far to the north. You are never alone on or in the water here - less because of the local windsurfers than because of the masses of seals, sea lions and other creatures.
8) Floras Lake
If you want to turn your back on the wild Pacific and cruise comfortably in flat water, you should definitely take a trip to Floras Lake! Separated from the sea by a belt of dunes, you can trick to your heart's content here at Boice Cope Park and hone your manoeuvres in the smooth water. In strong NW winds, a mirror-smooth manoeuvring laboratory develops at the windward end of the lake, albeit with slightly gusty winds and various kite kites in the sky. The south wind is also easy to ride and because there is a complete infrastructure here, including a campsite, B & B and even a rental centre, you are in good hands here.
If you've made it this far, you can seriously consider a detour to the legendary Columbia River and its lively windsurfing scene - it's just 250 miles from Floras Lake to Portland.
General information California/Oregon (USA)
Travelling/materials
The best starting point for a trip to the US west coast is San Francisco. Alternatively, Portland Airport further north can also be a tip - here you also have the option of paying a visit to the legendary Columbia River Gorge. Flights are available from 600 euros. You should definitely check the airlines' baggage conditions, as you won't be able to avoid bringing your own equipment.
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendation
The best time to travel for windsurfers is between April and September, when a reliable thermal from the north to north-west develops between the hot hinterland and the cold Pacific Ocean, which, according to statistics (see right), blows at more than 24 km/h (=13 knots) on over 70 per cent of days. Local effects provide the extra boost. Small sails always belong in your luggage, days with 35 knots are not uncommon. The air temperature is a moderate 20 to 25 degrees, and apart from the morning sea mist, precipitation is rare in summer. Due to the cold water - even in August it is rarely more than 15 degrees - a 5/3 long sleeve is recommended. For SUPing or surfing, shoes/hoods won't hurt either.
Wind and weather forecasts
Swell forecast
surf tip
Get the iWindsurf smartphone app. Here you get access to live measurement data and local forecasts as well as wind statistics for many surf spots. The website
www.wx.iwindsurf.com is top!
Living & Camping
If you want to maximise your surfing days, you should be mobile. The ideal option is to hire a campervan (from 900 euros/month) or one of the fat motorhomes (from 1300 euros/month), which are equipped with a shower, toilet, fridge and other bells and whistles and offer space for up to six people. Simply google the search term "Camper California". We have also had good experiences with Escape Campervans ( www.escapecampervans.com ). At around 80 cents per litre, fuel is significantly cheaper than in Europe. Wild camping is still tolerated in parts of California and Oregon, but prohibition signs should be taken seriously. Campfires should only be lit at designated fireplaces; in view of the regular forest fires, this is no laughing matter. There are numerous well-equipped campsites in marvellous locations. Cost: 20 to 50 dollars/night.
Camping near the spot
- Bodega Harbour: Doran Regional Park
- Clam Beach: Clam Beach County Park
- Big Lagoon: County Campground
- Floras Lake: Boice-Cope Park
Surf schools & shops
Unfortunately, the west coast is no man's land in this respect! Own equipment and mobility is a must. The exception is Floras Lake Windsurfing & Kiteboard (http:// floraslake.com ).
Shady sides
The low water temperatures are bearable thanks to the warm air, but they cannot be completely ignored.
