Spots in this article:
"The sun rises in the east. But at the end of the day, it is also happy to set again in the west." It is permissible to forget political correctness for a moment at this point in favour of a flat joke. Why? Because an island with more annual hours of sunshine than Munich and a longer coastline than the entire Baltic coast of Schleswig-Holstein has to put up with a little envious mockery. You were often only second choice because your rivals, the spot beauties on the North Sea, were wilder than you. If I did visit you, I was usually gone by breakfast time, avoided the days when you were just hanging around and rarely called back. For a long time, I didn't have an eye for your diverse landscape and couldn't get excited about long walks along your chalk cliffs to the Königsstuhl or strolling around the beautiful coastal town of Binz.
Instead, it was always the same standard programme: waking up and immediately looking frantically through the rear window at the sea - wave session at one of your less attractive spots, the long harbour pier at Neu Mukran, coffee at the bakery in the same town - shallow water sports on the Wieker Bodden - fish sandwiches in the harbour at Sassnitz or in the smokehouse off Dranske. And as soon as the wilder North Sea spots came my way, I was again nowhere to be seen for months.
So it's understandable that you first rammed a hollow, head-high breaker into my back when I suddenly started to take an interest in your west wind spots on the north coast and realised in amazement that you can be really wild.
So Rügen, if you forgive me for my terrible behaviour in the past (and the stupid line at the beginning), I promise to come round more often from now on and never again laugh at sentences with the wording "side offshore conditions on Rügen" or "Baltic Sea waves in a south-westerly wind"! With love, Tilo!
Windsurfing spots on Rügen with waves or flat water
1) Dranske
Car parks, catering, toilets and the very wide wind window make Dranske one of the most popular shallow water spots on the island. The standing area is large, the waves - even in strong winds - only small. Because the well-equipped surf school and shop of the Rügen Pirates are also located here, nothing is left to be desired - Dranske is ideal for intermediates, heaters, trickers or for full-speed runs with a slalom board. Thanks to the soft ground, the spot is not a fin killer, even in shallow spots. Only westerly winds are somewhat covered, then it's better to head over to Wiek, where a comparable set-up awaits you.
2) Wiek
Opposite Dranske, in Wiek, there is also a complete surfing infrastructure with car parks, a rigging area and a professional surf school (Surf & Kite Camp). Westerly winds blow constantly onshore and, in combination with the large standing area, there are ideal conditions for heating, tricks and practising manoeuvres. Just beware of some stones in the entry area! If the wind blows from the east, the situation is reversed and it gets gusty, then quickly head back over to Dranske!
3) Kreptitz
Probably the only spot in the German Baltic Sea that delivers good waves from south-west to west-south-west! You can park for free and there are also some catering facilities and toilets. Due to the sandbank in front, you have almost 300 metres of run-up for jumps with sideshore from the left. The wave can quickly reach over two metres in stormy conditions, and the shorebreak is massive. It only gets tricky with a wind direction of over 260 degrees (W) due to the increasing windward jam. The north-east provides similar conditions with wind from the right, but surfing in Mukran is more relaxed and safer. The path to the beach is a challenge due to the steep iron stairs - the old stairs were torn down a few years ago and a new one was financed by a crowdfunding campaign from the surf scene. You should also watch out for some rocks in the shore area - all in all a spot for experienced surfers.
4) Nonnewitz
Nonnewitz is another pearl of the "Rügen Northshore". You can park in front of the "Regenbogen" campsite, about 500 metres away, where there are also restaurants and toilets. The long walk down to the beach is worth it: Nonnewitz offers one of the most powerful waves on the island in strong westerly winds, which breaks about 100 metres out on a sandbank. Shorebreak is therefore not a problem, rather a few stones in knee-deep water and a mixture of current and windward jam if the wind turns too northerly. It's also easy to ride with an easterly wind from the right!
5) North beach
You can officially spend the night in the car park behind the cliffs for a fee and walk down what feels like 300 steps to the sandy beach. The entrance is quite easy, just watch out for a few large stones on the shore. At WNW-NW, Nordstrand comes into its own - the wave breaks over an offshore sandbank and quickly becomes head-high, and in stormy conditions it can be significantly larger and quite powerful. Side- to sideonshore from the left then allows big jumps and frontside rides. The only drawback here is also the small wind window - a few degrees too much north brings windward jamming on the steep coast, if it blows too westerly, you "starve" in the cover. With O-ONO it's the same with wind from the right.
6) Altenkirchen/Juliusruh
The beautiful sandy beach is worth a visit even when it's calm. The main windsurfing spots are north-east (sideonshore from the left) and south-east (sideon from the right). Some shorebreak can make it difficult to get started, but the waves remain moderate due to the headlands to the south and north. An easterly wind brings big waves, but a flat onshore wind. If necessary, you can avoid the beach section Tromper Wiek, about 2 kilometres further south, where the OSO wind comes a little more from the side.
7) Neuhof and Polchow
If the wave spots on the north coast are too fierce for you in westerly winds, a few kilometres further on, on the Great Jasmund Bodden, you can let your fins glow in idyllic natural surroundings without any danger. Neuhof and Polchow are only a few hundred metres apart and the conditions are similar. Winds from the south (sideshore from the left, slightly covered in the shore area) to the west (onshore) to the northwest (sideshore from the right) are ideal. In Neuhof there is a slightly larger standing area (approx. 200-300 metres), in Polchow there is a little more space and a nice fishing village with a fish stall around the corner. The only thing to watch out for in Polchow are the clearly visible wooden groynes on the shore.
8) Groß Banzelvitz
With southerly to north-easterly winds, the Great Jasmund Bodden is also an ideal alternative spot for all those who love shallow water. As the wind blows offshore in Neuhof and Polchow, we recommend moving to the western shore. Groß Banzelvitz also has a larger standing area (100-200 metres) and easy access via the beach. Even in strong winds, there are only small choppy waves, which are easy to master even for less experienced surfers. A campsite directly at the spot and the kite and windsurfing school "Rügen Kite" round things off.
9) New Mukran
The morbid charm of the upwind harbour may not be to everyone's taste - but you should at least be grateful for its long pier, which allows the waves to roll into the bay in an orderly fashion in easterly winds. If an easterly wind of more than 25 knots is forecast, the chances of catching one of the brilliant Mukran days are greatest: sideonshore winds from the left then allow both frontside rides and huge jumps on the offshore sandbanks. If you head further to leeward, the waves get bigger (up to logohigh in storms), but come more from the side. Further upwind, towards the harbour pier, the wave breaks smaller, but the angle for frontside riding is better. You can park directly at the spot, and there are shops, restaurants and accommodation in nearby Sassnitz.
10) Prora
If the wind is too northerly in Mukran, you should try your luck in Prora. The area around what was once the longest building in the world, the almost five kilometre long "Colossus of Prora", a "prestige building" from the Nazi era, is strange, but the beach in front of it is all the more beautiful. Rare, strong northerly winds deliver fat creamy waves with sideonshore from the left, which break perfectly on offshore sandbanks for jumping and riding off. There is also a sandy entry and even a small standing area. Southeast is also possible, bringing mini-surf with wind from the right. You have to park about 300-400 metres from the spot, somewhere between the youth hostel and the railway museum.
11) Binz
Binz is better known among surfers, but also scores highly as a windsurfing spot. The ingredients are a strong south-easterly to easterly wind, followed by a long, clean wave at the pier, which is less suitable for jumping than for riding due to the patchy wind in the shore area. The resort promenade offers a cool ambience and plenty of beach-goers. The only problem is the parking situation - it is best to unload at the pier and park in one of the town's side streets with an optimistic parking disc setting. There is a small surf school right on the Kurplatz.
12) Baabe
The spot in the south-east of Rügen is particularly popular with bathers thanks to its beautiful sandy beach. Generally speaking, all easterly directions are possible, with a south-easterly to easterly wind blowing sideshore to sideonshore from the right being ideal. The waves break moderately on an offshore sandbank and you will notice that they have less run-up in a south-easterly wind than in a north-easterly wind. As the waves usually don't get much higher than 1.5 metres, the spot is also suitable for wave beginners to jump and ride. If the wind shifts from east to northeast, the waves get bigger, but the wind blows onshore and a little windward jam forms - time to think about moving to Mukran. There is a complete infrastructure in the village, including a car park, snack bar and the surf school Surf & Sail, which offers everything from catamarans to SUP boards. The best place to park is at the "Fischerstrand".
13) Lobbe
Lobbe also scores with a great sandy beach and shallow entry, which is why an annoying shore break can never develop here. With south to south-southeast winds, the spot, which is located just south of the village of Lobbe in the direction of Thiessow, has a sideonshore wind from the right, but only small waves. These break safely on a sandbank in front of the spot, so that even wave beginners can easily venture in. SO-E is flat onshore and therefore less of a tip, whereas strong ONE-NE produces creamy days on which the waves turn round the small cape to windward and allow both clean rides to leeward and jumps.
14) Thiessow East
Coming from Lobbe, you can find this spot by turning into the beach road and driving through to the end. North of the small pier, at the end of the promenade, the conditions are similar to those in nearby Lobbe. Beautiful waves up to two metres high break on an offshore sandbank. A NNE to NE wind is ideal, blowing side-on from the left and allowing good jumps. Beware of the mole to leeward! Southeast (sideshore from the right) is also easy to ride and offers bump & jump to small waves, depending on the wind strength.
15) Thiessow main beach
The south-west facing beach was the heart of the scene in GDR times. However, the name "Thiewaii" came less from the wave quality than from the fact that you could enjoy waves here at all - surfing on the open Baltic Sea was strictly forbidden due to flight paranoia. Shortly after the village of Thiessow, the spot is located on the left-hand side. South-west to west winds bring waves that break in the shallow area in front of the beach and allow onshore rides. An offshore easterly wind, on the other hand, smoothes out the water and makes the hearts of all stokers and manoeuvre fans beat faster. There is a complete infrastructure on site with car parks, a rigging area, campsite and the surf schools "Surfoase Mönchgut" and "ProBoarding Rügen", where you can hire equipment and take courses.
16) Thiessow South
An alternative in south to south-easterly winds is the small stretch of beach at the southern tip of the Mönchgut peninsula, which can be reached via the Südperdweg. The good thing about this spot is the standing area (100-200 metres) and small, harmless waves that break over offshore sandbanks and are at least good for a few backsider rides and jumps. Unfortunately, the partly rocky entrance, groynes and sometimes also seaweed piles on the shore make the start difficult.
17) Alt Reddevitz
This rather inconspicuous spot actually only works with an onshore south-westerly wind. The water gets deep quite quickly here, but there are only small chops that can be used for a few small jumps; if there is a problem, you will quickly drift ashore again. The best place to start is in front of the Cafe Moccavino in the village, with only a few fishing boats getting in the way on the shore.
18) Rose garden
One of the most beautiful shallow water spots on the island of Rügen is a little secluded and there is no infrastructure here. At the Rosengarten village pond, you turn into a small road that leads directly to the water. The approach is rewarded with very good shallow water conditions in easterly winds, as an outer sandbank blocks away coarse choppy water. Only a few "swell heads" roll through, which - the closer you get to the sandbank - offer pretty good ramps for initial jumps or loops, for example. Due to the large standing area, intermediates are also well catered for.
19) Altefähr
If you are particularly impatient, you can get on the water directly behind the Rügendamm dam in Altefähr. You can park for free at the harbour in the village, where there are also toilets and restaurants. The conditions to the right of the harbour are unspectacular but certainly fun, and the view of the Rügendamm and the silhouette of Stralsund is definitely something special. The Sail & Surf Rügen surf school offers courses.
20) Suhrendorf
Between the island of Ummanz, which can be reached via a small bridge, and the offshore island of Hiddensee, what is probably Germany's largest standing area stretches over several square kilometres. The best way to get in is via the campsite (day ticket required!), the spot itself works in a wide wind window from south to west to north-east. Because the water, apart from small choppy waves, remains smooth even in storms and you can simply walk back in an emergency, this spot is perfect for all intermediates, jibe fans and freestylers. The local surf centre, campsite and surf hostel round things off and make Suhrendorf the perfect spot for all flat water fans. An easterly wind is also possible thanks to the flat hinterland, albeit a little gusty, but then you have to go further out into the deep water to have a constant wind.
21) Schaprode
Here, too, it is best to start from the local campsite, where the Wiking Surf centre is also located. The key features of the spot are similar to those in Suhrendorf: a large standing area with mostly sandy ground (some, only partially marked rocks in the water!), a wide wind window from south to north-west and only small choppy waves are perfect for intermediates and heaters alike. East winds are best surfed in the slightly more southerly gust that arises between the island of Ummanz and Schaprode and strengthens it somewhat. The ferry to Hiddensee moors here, so you should avoid the fairway, but you don't have to worry about annoying kiters - kiting is prohibited here.
Area information Rügen
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations
Compared to other spots in the Baltic Sea, Rügen has a big advantage: you are in the right place for both westerly and easterly winds, so it is not surprising that Cape Arkona is, according to statistics, one of the windiest places in Germany, with 50 to 75 per cent winds over 4 Bft. Although the yield is probably somewhat lower for the less exposed spots, nowhere else in the Baltic Sea is the chance of a gliding wind as high. Westerly winds are linked to the passage of a depression, which occurs regularly throughout the year, with a focus on the winter months.
If there are no low pressure systems, stable easterly winds regularly establish themselves, especially in spring and summer, which often last for days - often with blue skies, which qualifies Rügen as similarly sunny as Fehmarn or Freiburg with over 1800 hours of sunshine per year. In the north of Rügen, for example on Wieker Bodden, easterly winds are thermally stronger, especially in spring - when the air is already warm but the water is still cold - so that even with a 10-knot forecast, you are regularly travelling with small sails. From September to May, a thick wetsuit, shoes and sometimes a bonnet need to be in your luggage; in summer, a 4/3 suit usually does the trick with an average air temperature of 18 degrees and water temperature of 17 degrees.
Shafts
Rügen can offer good waves in both westerly and easterly winds. In strong south-westerly to westerly winds, these have a run-up of 150 kilometres and can sometimes logo high in storms, but one to two metres is the rule. When the easterly wind is thermally stronger, it is more of a local wind phenomenon and the wave heights at the east side spots remain rather small. The Baltic Sea is at its best when a low pressure system is approaching from the south and a stable high pressure system is over Scandinavia - this is when real easterly storms develop that have a run-up of almost 500 kilometres and build up waves the size of the North Sea.
Surf tip: It makes sense to bring a surfboard or SUP board, you'll be surprised how many paddlers are on the water in Binz.
Shady sides? Seaweed!
During the summer months, seagrass fins should definitely be part of your luggage - from June to September, you can't go anywhere without them at many spots.
Journey
From Berlin or Hamburg, it is less than 300 kilometres on the motorway to the gateway to Rügen, the old Hanseatic town of Stralsund. Travelling by car is recommended, as Rügen offers many spot options for which you need to be flexible if you want to maximise your surfing yield.
Living & Camping
Rügen is a tourist stronghold, accounting for 25 per cent of Meck Pomerania's annual overnight stays. Everything is available here, from campsites and affordable flats to luxury resorts. Windsurfers will also be interested in the numerous campsites, some of which are even close to the spots. Examples of these are
Altefähr
- Sund Camp ( sund-camp.de )
Altenkirchen
- Camping Drewoldke ( www.camping-auf-ruegen.de )
Bakenberg
- Mövenort ( www.moevenort.de )
- Swallow's nest ( www.windland.de )
Dranske
- Caravancamp Ostseeblick ( www.caravancamp-ostseeblick.de )
- NoHotel Dranske ( www.ostseehautnah.de )
Groß Banzelvitz
- Camping site Banzelvitzer Berge ( holiday-house-ruegen-ostsee.net )
Kreptitz
- Baltic Sea wind ( ostseewind.info )
Lobbe
- Dat Stranddörp ( www.campingruegen.de )
Nonnewitz
- Rainbow Camp ( www.regenbogen.ag )
Pritzwald
- Nature campsite Pritzwald ( www.ruegen-campingplatz-pritzwald.de )
Schaprode
- Camping Schaproder Bodden ( www.camping-schaprode.de )
Suhrendorf
- Rügen Surf Hostel ( ummaii.de )
Thiessow
- Surfoase Mönchgut ( www.thiewaii.de )
Wiek
- Surf & Kite Camp ( www.surf-kite-camp.de )
Surf schools
The high density of surf schools also makes Rügen the perfect destination. There is a centre on virtually every bay where you can hire equipment, book courses or camps:
- Altefähr: Sail & Surf Rügen ( www.segelschule-ruegen.de )
- Baabe: Surf & Sail ( www.windrider.de )
- Binz: Surf & Sail Binz ( www.segelschule-binz.de )
- Dranske: Rügen Pirates ( www.ruegen-piraten.de )
- Göhren: ProBoarding Rügen ( www.proboarding.de )
- Groß Banzelvitz: Rügen Kite ( www.ruegen-kite.de )
- Schaprode: Wiking Surf (surfen-auf-ruegen.com )
- Suhrendorf: Windsurfing Rügen (surfen-auf-ruegen.com )
- Thiessow: Surfoase Mönchgut ( thiewaii.com ); Proboarding Rügen ( www.proboarding.de )
- Wiek: Surf & Kite Camp ( www.surf-kite-camp.de )
Surf shops
Dranske
- Rügen Pirates ( www.ruegen-piraten.de )
Alternative programme
The famous chalk cliffs of Cape Arkona, which are over 100 metres high, inspired the painter Caspar David Friedrich and have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011 in the form of the Jasmund National Park. We also recommend a trip to the historic old town of Stralsund, which is a World Heritage Site, as well as the Ocean Museum and Ozeaneum. When the easterly wind dies down? Off to panoramic wave riding or SUPing in Binz!
This article first appeared in surf 5/2016
