Turn your back on the German winter for a few weeks with your boards on the roof and the whole family in your luggage. Who wouldn't want that? It quickly became clear that we should go to Crete. The fact that there was little information on the internet about windsurfing there in the winter months promised us the opportunity to discover lots of new things.
At the end of December, the time had come for us - after months of waiting and planning, we were finally ready to go. There was a slight uncertainty at the back of our minds. How would the journey with our campervan go? We had it professionally converted by Nordvan in Neumünster in the spring - the team was a stroke of luck. It was customised and functionally adapted to our small family and surfing according to our wishes and needs.
Fully loaded, we travelled over the Alps to Ancona, where we boarded the first ferry. A spacious cabin was waiting for our travelling dog Lumi and baby Kjell, who was about to embark on his first big tour at the age of three months, for dad Alex and me. We were naturally very excited to see how Kjell would do on the trip. People around us kept telling us that travelling with a three-month-old baby was impossible. The 23-hour ferry journey flew by and we were really looking forward to the Greek mainland. Once we arrived in Patras, we made our way to the ferry harbour in Piraeus in 50 to 70 knots of wind, a fresh eight degrees and snow that almost reached the lowlands. With the wind, it was clear that the ferry to Crete would not be allowed to leave, and the forecast for the night was not favourable for us either. This cancelled our plan to go surfing the next day. After a 17-hour delay and waiting time on the ferry, we finally set off. After another eight hours and a surprisingly smooth journey, we had reached our destination: "Welcome to the beautiful island of Crete!" Exhausted and somewhat saddened, we travelled to the east of the island to the tranquil village of Palekastro, where it was only four degrees Celsius and raining snow.
Once again as a reminder. We started in the north of Germany at twelve degrees and arrived in Crete at four degrees. Who would have thought it?
After a few days of bad weather and an increasingly bad mood, the wind turned to the south and we were greeted by weather conditions from the African mainland. This brought us sun, wind and temperatures of around 16 degrees. In the east of the island, a wide variety of spots awaited us, all of which we were keen to test in winter. The conditions at the Freak Surf Centre on Kouremenos Beach were the best for our little family, even though the centre is only open from May to October. Parking directly on the beach and being able to camp there with a sea view made this spot in the east unique for us.
If you are planning a trip during the season and are looking for a change of pace on a lazy day, you can also hire a bike from the Freak Mountain Bike Centre or book one of the tours on offer there and explore the island of Crete by bike.
The tranquillity and nature are indescribable in the winter months. No crowds of tourists, no parched ground. Lush green clover leaves with bright yellow flowers cover the ground under the olive trees. The locals are hard at work harvesting the olives and were delighted to see us curious winter tourists. We were greeted warmly everywhere and triggered a feeling of the start of the season in one or two Crete residents. Even though we had caught the coldest winter on Crete for 35 years, the water temperatures were around 17 degrees. Surfing without a cap was therefore possible without any problems at an air temperature as low as eight degrees. Luckily for us, this didn't happen too often and we were often able to enjoy the sunshine with temperatures of around 18 degrees.
A particular highlight is Vai Beach, which is just an eight-minute drive from our starting point in Palekastro. Vai is one of the most famous beaches on the island. It is one of the few natural palm beaches in Europe. You immediately feel transported to the South Seas. A real paradise, especially in winter, with no sunbeds, no tourists and a fine sandy beach. Strong south-easterly winds create a good swell for surfing. From the water you have a view of the palm forest - simply unique! An easily accessible viewing platform provides an indescribably fantastic view over the whole bay.
In the immediate vicinity of Kouremenos Beach is Chiona Beach, where even in winter there is a thermal wind with a forecast of six knots from the south. Sail sizes of around four square metres are then not uncommon.
At the eastern tip of the island is the Tender spot, which is becoming increasingly popular with windsurfers returning every year. There are two spots there, which are only separated from each other by a small dam. Flat water on one side and swell waves on the other. The short path that leads to the northern bay is very adventurous and rocky. As so often on Crete, the underbody of our bus enjoys it. The small beach at the swell spot is a cosy place for the whole family and ideal for setting up the equipment under cover.
We visited the only real wave spot in the east north of Sitia in Faneromeni. On the journey there, we had a marvellous view of the turquoise blue water. Right on the shore, in a landscape that is barren even in winter, there is a small old church that creates a special atmosphere. There were no tourists to be seen for miles around. The mast-high waves broke very close to the sharp rocks, which prevented us, as windsurfers used to flat water, from going out on the water without other surfers. Especially when you only have a 370 mast with you.
More often, our day trips took us south to Xerokampos. The road there runs along several canyons, which are a great change for experienced hikers. Especially in winter, most of the canyons carry a lot of water and hiking through them with dry feet is almost impossible.
There can be a considerable swell on the extensive sandy beach of Xerokampos in winter. An absolute dream spot for anyone who prefers the wind from the right. We enjoyed some great surfing days there during our holiday with sail sizes between 4.0 and 4.4.
Olive trees as far as the eye can see, colourful beehives on the hillsides and goats on the mountain roads. Tradition is still very important on the island of Crete, and we often noticed this in the home-made products in the mini-markets. We stocked up on freshly pressed olive oil and delicious bee honey. Not only the flavour, but also the price is simply unbeatable.
We travelled to the west of the island for a two-week exploration tour. There, on the south side, we visited the elongated peninsula of Paleochora, also known as the pearl of the south. There you can not only surf in the crystal-clear water, but also hike in the famous Samaria and Agia Irini gorges. In winter, a guide is highly recommended for hiking in the gorges on the west coast.
Captivated by the incredible beauty of the golden beach in Elafonisi and the turquoise-coloured water, we took advantage of the solitude to go surfing in the lagoon at a sunny 16 degrees and 20 knots. At night, surrounded only by stars, this place is wonderful for camping. We never had any problems with wild camping, but you should know that it is forbidden on the whole island. In summer, Elafonisi is the most crowded place on the island and surfing in the lagoon is not recommended at all. In winter, on the other hand, this place shows its unspoilt, paradisiacal side and invites you to linger.
From Elafonisi, we travelled north along the coastal road to Falasarna. Large quantities of fruit and vegetables are grown on plantations here. In the winter months, the wave spot offers side-offshore conditions that are otherwise rarely found in the Mediterranean. The waves get up to mast-high and also attract some local windsurfers. Unfortunately, we weren't lucky with the swell and wind direction.
One particularly exciting tour was to Balos beach, which is located at the north-eastern end of the island. The pictures we saw on the internet really encouraged us to go surfing there. The sat nav told us that it would take us another 40 minutes to cover the last ten kilometres. At first we suspected this was a technical error, but we soon realised that the technology was right. Up the mountain on an unsurfaced road, the slope beside us, the occasional goat, otherwise nothing but a gravel track. Once at the top, it's another 30-minute walk, including equipment, to the small bay. In summer it's full of swimmers, but in winter it's perfect for surfing in the north-westerly and south-westerly winds. A turquoise-coloured lagoon that offers flat water for freestyling in both wind directions.
The way back to Palekastro took us to the picturesque old town of Chania. The small alleyways and tavernas were very cosy and probably even more inviting in summer to linger there into the night. Here too, like everywhere else on the island, many of the shops and tavernas were still in hibernation, but despite this we always found a cosy taverna for our little family.
During a spontaneous stop in Elounda, opposite the leper island of Fortress Spinalonga, we had a wonderful flat-water session thanks to the thermally strengthened south wind. Especially in winter, this is a spot that should not be neglected. With both southerly and northerly winds, you'll find good flat water conditions and great opportunities for camping. After surfing, we were able to go to the weekly market in Agio Nikolaos, exhausted and with a clear conscience. A colourful selection of fresh fruit and vegetables awaited us and we only left the market when the pram's basket was fully loaded. The freshly squeezed orange juice was now part of our daily breakfast.
The sunny and warm weather made it difficult for us to make our way back to Germany. After a short time, our little family was a well-rehearsed travelling team. Kjell enjoyed our full attention and, at just a few months old, was already discovering an incredible number of things that he would never have been able to get to know so early at home. The thought of everyday life and commitments at home dampened our spirits.
This time we had a smooth and uncomplicated ferry journey to Piraeus. On the way to Patras, we made a detour to the headland in Deprano on the Peloponnese. A narrow, long sandbank juts out at this spot, which we could only reach via a small, hidden beach path behind the neighbouring gravel works. For the first time after eight weeks on Crete, we met windsurfers there, with whom we were able to enjoy the Greek sun for the last time before heading back to cold Germany. We can only recommend travelling to the island of Crete in winter. We can advise young families in particular: Listen to your instincts, pack your surf gear and go travelling!
