Jürgen has shaped many boards during his career. The Sunset Slalom from F2 and other legendary windsurfing boards from the 80s and 90s came from his plane. Today, he shapes exclusive windsurfing, surfing and SUP boards in his workshop in Lajaras on Fuerteventura ( www.northshore-fuerte.com ).
In an interview with SUP editor-in-chief Steve Chismar, he gives tips for prospective waveboard buyers:
Is it worthwhile for the buyer to take a closer look at the board shapes? I would pay attention to all shapes when buying. The deck shape is often underestimated. It shouldn't be too rounded (i.e. dome deck-like) like windsurf boards. It should be flat so that you have a good stance.
You always shape your decks with a concave (light trough), why? You stand a little lower and therefore more stable and you feel like you're standing in an oversized shoe. Round decks give you a tree-trunk feeling. I know boards that are much wider but more tippy than my boards because they don't have flat decks.
Your boards are also equipped with thin rails. Yes, because the board must not be too thick. I find that boards that are too thick in relation to their width also have a tree trunk effect. They tilt. The higher you stand on the water, the more it tilts. That's logical. SUP wave boards become thinner again with an optimal volume distribution. So with less volume overall, just more distributed over the stern and bow.
Is it worth looking under the board when buying? In any case, the underwater hull also plays a major role: a V-shape (a fine edge runs from front to back through the centre of the board) is more tippy, a concave (a subtle trough in the underwater hull) is more stable. A "V" in the tail makes larger boards turn better. Small wave boards do not need a "V", but rather a concave underfoot. A board with a "V" sucks in, it doesn't really ride freely. The rocker (the deflection) is important. The more rocker, the more radically a board surfs in the wave. For stability, the board must be flat both underwater and on the deck so that you are low to the surface of the water. The higher you stand, the more wobbly it becomes. Volume is important, but spread out at the front and back.
You don't wax SUP boards. What do you think about the standing surface? Waveboards in particular should have a standing surface right up to the bow.
Are there differences in the board edges? Yes, there are big differences: the more tucked under (where the bending angle of the edge turns under the board) it is, the more tippy it behaves - but this shape is more forgiving when riding off. A thick rail doesn't surf as well, but is more stable in the water. A thinner rail grips better when riding off, but it is also more difficult to ride. You have to weigh things up depending on your style and ability. Radical boards with thin rails and tucked under are a choice for ambitious riders. If you want to be more stable, you have to make compromises.
What dimensions would you recommend for Wave beginners? For climbers with a body weight of around 80 kilos, I would recommend a nine-foot board, from 130 to 150 litres. My tip for everyone: Stand tighter on a small board for better stability, this is helpful. The smaller the board, the more training you need. Therefore: Ride flat water for a long time before you venture into the waves. So: You should first master the equipment and only then go into the wave with all the right-of-way knowledge.
