Most surfers see the journey across the Greek mainland as a necessary evil that should be left behind as quickly as possible.
We all know the well-known surf spots such as Rhodes, Karpathos, Naxos or Paros, all with the corresponding infrastructure. If that's what you need, you shouldn't read any further here (unless you're curious), because Tsimari is exactly the opposite: pure nature. Flamingos, pelicans, swans, storks and free-roaming cattle are constantly frolicking around the spot. It's like being in a zoo, only without admission and without a fence.
Tsimari is ideal for those who are mobile and reasonably self-sufficient thanks to their camper and can do without fresh bread rolls in the morning, as the nearest town is just under 20 kilometres away. Nevertheless, less is often more in life, as Tsimari is pure shallow water luxury in the right conditions - probably the best shallow water spot in Greece.
The atmosphere there is very special - everyone is relaxed and friendly. If you don't cook for yourself, you can go to the cobbled-together "cantina" by the lagoon in the evening, where locals, bathers, kiters and surfers drink a beer or wine and eat the delicious Greek salad, homemade chips and souvlaki "a la grandma". Souvlaki is not usually our favourite, but it was extremely tasty there and the only thing on the menu anyway. Although the "Kantina" has no competition and is located in no man's land, the prices are unbeatably favourable.
A different world
If you only look at the photos, you might almost think Tsimari is in South America. The journey there alone, through the lagoon of Mesolongi on the Gulf of Patras, transports you to another time and place. Mesolongi is located not far from the harbour town of Patras in a plain that has been formed over the centuries by natural alluvial deposits in the estuary of the Acheloos and Evinos rivers. Just under 20 kilometres to the north-west, on an island at the other end of the 33 square kilometre Mesolongi lagoon, is the small town of Etoliko - there is not much else on offer here. Although the lagoon town of Mesolongi has 13,000 inhabitants, it only has two hotels and a few small private accommodations - so there is limited capacity for non-campers. However, if you love peace and seclusion, this is the place for you, regardless of the surfing conditions. A canoe or SUP tour through the lagoon populated by flamingos or a cycle tour along the coast, past fishermen's huts and offshore islands, is a great way to get over a slack day.
If you drive from Mesolongi towards Etoliko, you will see large salt deposits again and again. In some pools, the salt content of the water is so high that you can simply lie down on the water and read a newspaper, just like in the Dead Sea. Of course, there are no showers - you bring fresh water with you in canisters, for example.
On the road in the delta
Like Mesolongi, Etoliko is a tranquil little town in the middle of the lagoon with just 4,300 inhabitants. To the west of Etoliko lie the estuaries of the Evinos and Acheloos rivers, the longest Greek river at 170 kilometres. Where maize, cotton, citrus fruits and olives are not grown or cattle are not reared, salt steppe covers the dried-up lagoon floors. In the villages, tourism plays no role at all - in simple tavernas, two people can still eat their fill for 15 euros and even get a quarter of wine on top. But there is hardly any accommodation here - Tsimari is like something from another world.
The spots along the Gulf of Corinth are much busier. Anyone travelling from Patras to the ferry port of Piraeus to cross over to one of the islands will pass spots such as Kato Alepochori or Loutraki almost immediately. In contrast to Tsimari, which is a tip in westerly thermals, Loutraki and Kato Alepochori work with meltemi, which arrives here from a northerly to north-easterly direction. Depending on its strength, it even shovels small surf waves onto the beach, which are perfect for a jumping session. While Tsimari is more suited to individualists and nature lovers, the area along the Gulf of Corinth is also much busier, with the corresponding infrastructure and countless sightseeing opportunities. Some of the most important archaeological sites in northern Greece are just a stone's throw away, including the Corinth Canal, Epidaurus, the Acropolis and Olympia.
There's no question that the Greek islands have their charm. But if you look left and right on the way there, you quickly discover that the region has a lot to offer: Lonely nature, plenty of wind and a rich cultural offering. Perhaps this guide will inspire you to make the journey your destination on your next trip and discover something completely new.
Tsimari & other secret spots - general info:
Journey:The following five spots are all located "along the way". So if you are travelling from Patras towards the ferry port of Piraeus and are planning to take the ferry to one of the Greek islands, you will pass one or more of these spots.
Living & Camping:The most westerly spot in this guide, Tsimari, and the furthest east, Loutsa, are almost absolute opposites: Tsimari is incomparably secluded, so accommodation close to the spot is correspondingly rare. In contrast, Loutsa, east of Athens, offers the complete infrastructure package consisting of accommodation in all price categories, surf schools, restaurants and nightlife. Drepano, Kato Alepochori and Loutraki are somewhere in between, and not just geographically. Wild camping is generally prohibited in Greece, especially in the high season there are strict controls and charges - please use the official pitches and campsites. Unfortunately, there are often no official campsites directly at the spots. Exceptions are Kato Alepochori with the Camping Poseidon ( www.campingposeidon.gr ) and Loutraki/Lehaio with the Blue Dolphin campsite ( www.camping-blue-dolphin.gr ). The nearest campsite from Loutsa is in Nea Makri, about 18 kilometres away ( www.campingneamakri.gr ).
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations:Of course, there are many more spots between Patras and Athens than the five described here. In this guide, we deliberately want to present you with a few spots that work in different wind conditions - so you always have at least one suitable option when travelling through. The most common wind in the summer months (May to October) is the Meltemi, which is caused by a heat low over the Aegean and the Turkish mainland and blows from the north to north-east in the northern part of Greece. When the Meltemi is blowing, Kato Alepochori, Loutraki and especially Loutsa are equally ventilated. If the Meltemi fails to materialise, a light westerly current often sets in, which is strengthened locally at some spots. These include Drepano and the "secret spot" Tsimari. A westerly thermal of eight to 12 knots increases to 15 to 20 knots at these spots, and on good days up to 25 knots.
Generally speaking, a 4/3 wetsuit is sufficient in early summer and autumn, but in high summer shorties or board shorts will do in view of the 25 degree water temperature and well over 30 degree air temperature.
Surf schools & shops:Those travelling with their own equipment have a clear advantage at most spots. There is a notable surfing infrastructure around Loutsa in particular. There are several centres here where you can take courses and hire equipment:
- Tony Frey Windsurf Centre: www.tonyfrey.gr
- Athens Watersports: www.athenswatersports.gr
- Nissakia Surf Club: www.nissakia.gr/en
Replacements for broken material are available in Loutsa:
- Right Stuff: www.rightstuff.gr
- Windsurfing at 100: www.windsurfingat100.gr
Good to know:If there is no wind, it can get blisteringly hot on the Greek mainland, especially in midsummer. Sun protection is essential on land and on the water. There are also plenty of mosquitoes at spots like Tsimari, so appropriate mosquito repellent is recommended.
On windy weekends, locals and tourists make a pilgrimage to the cool water, and spots like Loutsa can get really crowded.
1. tsimari
The lagoon spot at Mesolongi is hardly known, but is considered by insiders to be the best shallow water spot in Greece. It should be noted that the beach strip changes depending on the wind conditions. Some of the strips are firm and can be driven on and parked on by car. It is advisable to check this, otherwise there is a risk of getting stuck. Otherwise, you can park on the road and get into the water almost anywhere. Tsimari is a 300 metre wide and approximately 1.3 kilometre long saltwater lagoon, which is separated from the sea by a shallow, approximately 50 metre wide strip of beach. The wind coming from the west therefore blows unhindered and constantly into the lagoon. The waves are blocked by the shallow sandbank. The highlight of Tsimari is that the lagoon on the leeward side of the sandbank is immediately chest-deep, so you can surf one metre from the sand - you will hardly find smoother water. Further downwind, the lagoon becomes increasingly shallow. Drifting is therefore impossible, but two thirds of the lagoon can still be used with longer fins. The bottom is sandy and a few obstacles are marked. This makes Tsimari the perfect place to practise, regardless of whether you are working on your first jibe or double culo. You can also surf in Tsimari on the open sea in onshore winds, but then more in choppy water. In stronger westerly winds, the offshore sandbanks can sometimes get a metre wave. In late summer there is more seaweed there. Theoretically, you can also surf in the freshwater lagoon of Achelos - if it wasn't the hotspot for kiters. The unwritten law in Tsimari is that kitesurfing takes place in the freshwater lagoon and windsurfing in the saltwater lagoon.
2. drepano
Even if the water in Drepano is not quite as smooth as in Tsimari, the two spots have a lot in common. Drepano can also be reached in less than 45 minutes from the ferry harbour in Patras. Simply enter "Cape Drepano" in GoogleMaps. Drepano does not work with northerly Meltemi either, but primarily with westerly and easterly winds, which are amplified here due to the geographical location and thermal effects. As the usual forecasts do not take local amplification into account, it is worth travelling to Drepano if Windfinder & Co predict eight to 10 knots of basic wind from the west or east. The wind whistles over a flat headland of gravel. On the leeward side there is excellent flat water, which makes the hearts of freeriders, trickers and slalom fans beat faster. Depending on the season, however, you may have to put up with a lot of kitesurfers here, especially at weekends. Further out, depending on the wind strength, there are moderate chops that are also suitable for small jumps. There is also some infrastructure in the immediate vicinity in the form of accommodation and a few tavernas. You can park directly at the spot.
3. loutsa
Loutsa is one of Athens' city spots - in the high season and at weekends it's very busy here. In contrast to Drepano and Tsimari, Loutsa works with classic Meltemi from north to northeast as well as southeast, which is somewhat thermally amplified here. There is a full range of infrastructure in the surrounding area, including accommodation of all kinds, restaurants, supermarkets and surf schools. The main spot Loutsa/Artemida offers a pleasant entrance via a shallow sandy beach. There is a small standing area on the shore, but the bay itself is also a safe spot for intermediates. The southeast wind blows very moderately and arrives onshore at the spot, with normal Meltemi from the north to northeast then blowing sideshore from the left. Apart from a few choppy waves, the water remains quite smooth, which makes Loutsa/Artemida a great practice spot. If you like it wavier, you can also surf in real surf waves at the windward end of the bay, at the Nissakia spot. These can be up to two metres high when the Meltemi is strong and allow for big jumps. The price is a rocky reef with a narrow entrance and the numerous kiters as well as the poor parking situation do not exactly contribute to relaxation here.
4th Kato Alepochori
Kato Alepochori on the Gulf of Corinth is only around 30 minutes from Megara on the number 8 motorway. The small holiday resort is attractive for windsurfing in two weather conditions. When the Meltemi wind blows from north to north-east, take the shore road in Alepochori from the harbour in a westerly direction. After about 800 metres, you can easily get in at the "Tramonto Cafe". The wind then comes sideshore from the right and ensures uncomplicated conditions. Depending on the wind strength, these range from flat water to bump & jump with a metre of chop. The beach is sandy, pebbly and only a little rocky in places. If you continue along the shore road, you will find further good parking and entry points over a length of around 1.5 kilometres. The Meltemi then comes slightly cross onshore or even onshore. Westerly winds also work well here. Then you start at the harbour from a small bay (sand/pebbles/stones), where the wind blows sideshore from the left. In strong westerly winds, there can be swells up to 1.5 metres high here, inviting you to jump. But you can also have a good time here on land - there are cafés, bars, tavernas, small supermarkets and a few places to stay overnight.
5th Loutraki & Lehaio
Loutraki (approx. 11,500 inhabitants) is close to Corinth and Athens - and therefore not far from many sights. The spot works in Meltemi, so it's best to park near the "Beach Club Cocoon". The wind here comes sideshore from the right on the beach. The water is mostly shallow, with harmless waves up to one metre high in strong winds. The wind in Loutraki is often strongest in the morning and late afternoon. It is only a few metres from the car park to the beach (sand/pebbles). As there is also a good infrastructure on site with bars, cafés and showers, nothing is left to be desired. In westerly to north-westerly winds, you can get on the water at the "Café Bar Alterra", where there are plenty of parking spaces. The wind is slightly onshore and, depending on the strength of the wind, brings waves of up to 1.5 metres, which roll out leisurely on the beach, which consists mainly of sand and gravel.
Local tip: If the Meltemi blows very strongly from the north-east, you can take a detour to Lechaion ("Lehaio"), 16 kilometres away. Before the village of Lehaio, there is a good launch site at the "Sabbia Beach Bar", just before the Blue Dolphin campsite. The beach here is sandy to pebbly, there is a standing area of 20 to 50 metres and the wind blows diagonally onshore. Depending on the wind strength, the Meltemi blows up to one metre waves, but blows 1 to 2 Bft. less strongly than in Loutraki.
