Four weeks before zero hour: Initiator Toby Hüther joins his friends Oliver Berghamer and Markus Göbel via video conference to plan an impressive tour: They want to cross the Alps on e-bikes and SUPs - from Prien am Chiemsee to Grado on the Adriatic. The questions are pressing: How much weight do we actually have on our trailers? Will the e-bikes be able to pull the two trailers uphill when they are loaded with SUPs, white water equipment, tents, sleeping bags, food, clothes and everything else needed for an Alpine crossing? Where will we spend the night?
At maximum load, one trailer will weigh up to 100 kilograms, the second around 70 kilograms. What does this actually do to the brakes of the e-bikes when travelling downhill?
On the start day, Markus, Oliver and Toby meet at the SUP station in Prien am Chiemsee. "Do we have everything we need?" asks Oliver. "The fire pot is a must," Toby calls out. The adventurers pack everything into boxes, large waterproof travelling bags and rucksacks. Only after several attempts is everything safely stowed on the trailers. Paddles, pumps and life jackets are stuffed into the last few spaces. It is not until 6.00 pm that everything is securely lashed down. The sky over Lake Chiemsee darkens. Heavy thunderstorms are forecast.
You decide not to set off until the next morning. However, this also means that the first stage will be 60 kilometres longer and therefore a real endurance test for man and machine right at the start. In addition to the kilometres on the road, the stage plan also includes a white water tour on the Saalach. As is always the case with river paddling, a shuttle will be needed to switch between pedalling and paddling on the individual stages of the tour. This means that bikes and luggage will have to be sensibly distributed between the start and finish by travelling back and forth before the river passage. If possible, the three want to organise the shuttle with the e-bikes. We'll see in the end: It wasn't always possible to do this without thumbs out and hitchhiking or without the support of the accompanying photographer, also due to unexpected adversities.
Day 1 (Saturday, 21 May 2022)
- Prien am Chiemsee → Ramsau near Berchtesgaden
- Bike: 92 km / 950 metres up / 740 metres down
- SUP: 8 km / WW I-III / Saalach
The next morning, the thunderstorms of the night have passed. The trailer load is optimised once again, then the project of crossing the Alps begins. Until the first, unplanned stop after 23 kilometres: the brakes on Toby's bike need fine-tuning and Oliver buys mudguards for his borrowed e-bike. A good idea - we'll see later. After a good 30 minutes, the journey continues. The three of them get everything out of their e-bikes on the way to Lofer to make up some time.
On arrival at the kayak hut on the Saalach in Au bei Lofer, the e-bike batteries are as good as empty. A kayaker who has access to the hut and its power supply comes to the rescue. He is impressed by what the boys still have ahead of them and lets them recharge for free. While Toby takes care of recharging the batteries, the other two prepare the whitewater SUPs and load the trailers with everything that isn't needed on the water.
A brief glance at the Saalach raises doubts: the river has flooded due to the overnight rain and is brown in colour. "Should we really paddle down it?" Toby asks the group. The paddlers discuss briefly and weigh up the options. In the end, the decision is made: they want to go ahead with their plan and tackle the challenging stretch with its many rapids and boulders. Due to the advanced time of day, the route is shortened slightly. Today, the Saalach is much more challenging than it usually is at normal water levels. This stage is also suitable for a whitewater course to gain your first experience of running water with a professional guide.
Before paddling through the dangerous sections, the three experienced whitewater paddlers explore the best watercourse on foot and, apart from Markus losing a fin, they master the difficult sections without any major problems. The last challenge, the Unkener Schwall, shortly before the end of the paddling route at the Unken leisure centre, is also paddled through skilfully. It is already evening and there are still a good 20 kilometres and a few metres in altitude to cycle to the Simonhof campsite in Ramsau near Berchtesgaden.
Shuttling the equipment takes some time and the friends only reach the campsite around midnight. The barrier is closed. Only a small passageway provides access at this time of night. "Crap! We can't get through with our trailers," Oliver realises resignedly. Leaving the trailers outside the campsite is not an option either. Another solution is needed - and quickly. Oliver pulls out his smartphone and discovers a dirt track on the digital map that leads around the campsite and another access point. "Maybe this one is open? We'll give it a try!" It's another steep 50 metre climb. Oliver and Markus have to uncouple the trailers and push them in pairs, in complete darkness, only by the light of their headlamps. Three quarters of an hour later, they reach the access point, which is fortunately open. Exhausted from the mammoth stage on the first day, the three of them fall into their sleeping bags. "What a crazy and eventful start," summarises Toby wearily.
Day 2 (Sunday, 22 May 2022)
- Ramsau near Berchtesgaden → Golling
- Bike: 48 km / 250 metres uphill / 650 metres downhill
- SUP: 15 km / Königsseer Ache + Berchtesgadener Ache
The adventurers start day two early in perfect weather. After around 18 kilometres on the e-bike - the brakes have withstood the fast descent - Markus, Oliver and Toby reach the entry point of the Königsseer Ache just below the outflow from the Königssee. Once again, the SUPs are prepared, the whitewater equipment is put on and up we go on a lively trip with slight blockages, excellent switchbacks and a few swells to the mouth of the Ramsauer Ache in Berchtesgaden. From here, paddling continues on the Berchtesgadener Ache, which is no longer quite as challenging as the first four kilometres on the Königsseer Ache. Turquoise-green water, a narrow watercourse and wooded banks - a dream for all river paddlers! "We've caught the perfect day for this tour - it couldn't be better," Markus calls out to the others.
After a scenically beautiful and athletically challenging tour, today's paddling stage ends in Marktschellenberg, including the accompanying bike shuttle. From there, the group rides another 22 kilometres to Golling. From Hallein, the adventurers follow the official Alpe-Adria cycle path, which leads from Salzburg to Grado. After a tasty refreshment stop in Golling, they set up camp again in the dark at the idyllic Torrent campsite. "That was nice today - it can go on like this. Good night," Markus calls out to the others from his tent.
Day 3 (Monday, 23 May 2022)
- Golling → Bad Gastein us
- Bike: 112 km / 1330 metres uphill / 1040 metres downhill
"Ewww! Eow!" The three friends are gently woken up by sheep the next morning. They had pitched their tent for the night right next to a sheep pasture. Markus fires up the coffee maker. The sun was shining and it was already 23 degrees in the morning. Today, the adventurers have the queen's stage of the crossing of the Alps ahead of them: 112 kilometres to the "roof of the tour" in Bad Gastein - a good 1,000 metres above sea level. "Unfortunately there's no paddling today. But we have a lot of pedalling to do. We're doing over 1,330 metres in altitude today. That will be exhausting. But the tour and the scenery are a dream and will reward us for the effort," says Oliver, heralding the start of the third stage. Toby's opinion: "Sounds great! First of all, fortify ourselves and have a good breakfast." Rolls, scrambled eggs, sausage and cheese are served on the sun terrace of the inn. The fully packed trailers with the SUPs also attract attention here. The three friends are asked what they are up to and the reactions to their answers are a mixture of astonishment and admiration.
On the famous Alpe-Adria cycle path, the team cycles further south along the Salzach river. They pass the imposing Hohenwerfen Castle and in Bischofshofen they take a quick look at the ski jump where the annual Four Hills Tournament ends. After three hours and 70 kilometres on the bike, a break is due. In the centre of Sankt Johann im Pongau you find a nice café for a short break. The next stop is a quick shop at the supermarket to replenish their supplies of drinks and snacks. By now it's around 30 degrees, so they need to drink a lot. The biggest exertions are still to come today. The three of them leave the Salzach Valley in Schwarzach im Pongau. From there, the route climbs steadily uphill. The bikers feel the weight of the trailers on steep ramps - at times they have to push along to make progress.
Firstly, you cycle up to a high plateau with impressive views of the surrounding mountains. Things then get exciting as you enter the 1.5 kilometre long gorge tunnel, which forms the entrance to the Gastein Valley. Although the cycle path is separated from the car lanes, it is still very narrow for bikes with trailers behind them. "Hopefully there won't be many oncoming bikes," Oliver implores. But they get out of the tunnel without any problems - with the spectacular view of Gastein in front of them. The group cycles steadily uphill to Bad Hofgastein. Another stop at a bike shop is necessary there. After all the metres in altitude, the gears on Toby's e-bike are causing problems, but the technician is able to fix them in a few simple steps.
Towards Bad Gastein, our destination for the day, the sky becomes threateningly grey. The clouds are getting thicker and greyer. The three of them just manage to find a shelter under the canopy of a shop before a short but violent thunderstorm with heavy rain passes over the village. "Where are we actually staying tonight?" Markus asks the group. "I'll call a few guesthouses," Toby replies and pulls out his phone. "They're all closed or fully booked. That leaves the campsite." But nobody wants to camp today. So they quickly book a mobile home at the Erlengrund campsite. After shopping, chef Markus serves up a large portion of pasta with delicious tomato sauce and vegetables in the evening. The perfect cyclist's meal.
Day 4 (Tuesday, 24 May 2022)
- Bad Gastein → Villach
- Bike: 91 km / 710 metres up / 1050 metres down
- SUP: 13 km / WW I-II+ (III) / Möll
Breakfast is homemade in the mobile home this morning. Markus, Toby and Oliver start day four with muesli or porridge. Today they want to cycle from the province of Salzburg to Carinthia. A white water tour is on the programme before they reach their destination in Villach. After packing, they get on their bikes in the early morning temperatures of 17 degrees - for a short sightseeing tour through Bad Gastein. However, there are initially around 200 metres of altitude to overcome over a short distance - with gradients of up to 18 percent. Good thing the batteries could be fully charged overnight! The group is impressed by the sophisticated Belle Époque architecture with its grand hotels and a spectacular view of the waterfall and the town from the bridge. An absolute highlight of the crossing of the Alps.
After another 150 metres in altitude, they reach the railway loading station of the Tauern lock in Böckstein. The adventurers are met by the astonished looks of other cyclists waiting there. They get talking and share their experiences so far. They receive respect for their endeavour from all sides. The cashier initially looks irritated at the packed bike trailers - he has probably never seen anything like it here before. You can literally see him thinking about how to attach the carriages to the car train, because the heavy trailers won't fit into the bike wagon. "It'll work somehow - the guys will do it - here are your tickets!" The ÖBB employees skilfully help to lash the bicycles and trailers to the car loading wagon with lashing straps. The passenger coach takes eleven minutes to travel through the Tauern Tunnel.
After unloading, the brakes of the e-bikes face a real endurance test: over the course of just six kilometres, the route descends over 500 metres in altitude. None of the boys know how the disc brakes will behave and change - especially when trailers weighing up to 100 kilos push from behind. They take it easy at first, but then increase their speed on the rapid descent. No problems with the brakes! Once they arrive in Mölltal, the team from the Active Sports Adventure Camp welcomes the cyclists with freshly prepared coffee.
After a now experienced equipment shuttle, it's off onto the water - for 13 kilometres on the wild Möll. Immediately after the start, three larger rapids are waiting to be mastered, which everyone manages. The group paddles comfortably down the Möll, which has been beautifully ravaged by the previous day's rain and is wide enough in many places for the three of us to paddle side by side and chat. Bushes and trees adorn the banks, and in clear places you can enjoy the impressive view of the slopes of the wide valley. There are also longer passages with slight blockages, rapids and higher waves that bring a smile to your face. After a sometimes challenging passage near the village of Oberkolbnitz, the group reaches their destination, the Campanula campsite, which is located directly at the inlet of the Möll into a reservoir. The owners immediately offer a "recreational cyclist", which Markus, Toby and Oliver gratefully accept. Toby is assigned to the equipment shuttle, while Markus and Oliver enjoy the sun on the banks of the Möll.
Back on the bikes, the group makes its way towards the day's destination of Villach, first along the Möll and then following the Drau. But before that, they stop at the Café-Konditorei Moser in Spittal an der Drau for a large portion of ice cream and a coffee. From there, it's a good 40 kilometres to Camping Seehof, just outside Villach. On arrival, the three of them jump straight into the lake. "What a brilliant way to cool off after a great, eventful day! It feels good," summarises Toby.
Day 5 (Wednesday, 25 May 2022)
- Villach → Chiusaforte
- Bike: 71 km / 650 metres uphill / 800 metres downhill
The next morning, breakfast is served on the spacious tent meadow. By now, the packing and stowing of all the equipment on the trailers has been optimised to such an extent that every move is perfect and everything is where it needs to be in record time. "All ready to go? The absolute highlight of the Alpe-Adria Cycle Route awaits on today's stage," Oliver agrees. Little do the three of them realise that the day is going to be different. In fine weather, the team starts with a short detour through Villach. They leave the River Gail on the right and head straight for the Austrian-Italian border at Tarvisio.
After a good 35 kilometres, a break is due. At the Osteria al vecchio mulino in Tarvisio, paninos topped with locally produced raw ham and cheese are served with an Italian espresso. The owners do everything they can to recharge the e-bike batteries. When we look out of the window, our previous good mood changes. Dark clouds can be seen in the sky and rain sets in a little later. Wrapped up in rain gear, the boys set off again - sometimes in heavy rain. Despite - or perhaps because of - the rain, the landscape and cycle route are particularly impressive.
From Tarvisio to Resiutta, the Alpe-Adria Cycle Path runs for almost 50 kilometres along the former Pontebbana railway line. This railway line was first opened in October 1879 and converted into a cycle path with EU funding. Markus, Oliver and Toby cycle over historic viaducts, spectacular bridges with magnificent views of the valley and through tunnels that are sometimes better and sometimes worse lit. They pass the old, run-down railway stations and, despite the rain, can't help but be amazed.
The old railway station in Chiusaforte, which is located directly on the cycle path, has been converted into an extremely charming café and restaurant. It was actually intended as a stopover, but was to become a stage destination - after 71 kilometres. The freshly prepared potato soup is perfect for warming up. It is already late afternoon and then Markus has an idea: "Can we spend the night under the station canopy tonight?" he asks the owner. She looks a little puzzled and doesn't understand the plan at first. Markus shows her the trailers with the SUPs, which can be used as a mattress. She agrees and says: "I've never had that either."
Once they have decided where to sleep, they make themselves comfortable in the restaurant and order their first glasses of wine. The owner sets a table for dinner in the next room. A little later, she serves frico, an Italian bacon and cheese omelette, and delicious polenta. After all the guests have left the railway station, the beds are laid out in the open air for the night. Before the owner closes the restaurant in the station, she hands her strange guests a bottle of wine, which they enjoy on the terrace.
Day 6 (Thursday, 26 May 2022)
- Chiusaforte → Braulins
- Bike: 30 km / 190 metres up / 380 metres down
- SUP: 33 km / WW I-III / Fella + Tagliamento
The next morning, the rain clouds from the previous day have cleared. Under a slightly cloudy sky, we have a hearty breakfast on the terrace. The owner has even started the coffee machine a little earlier than usual. Even before the first cyclists and locals pass by, everything is packed up to start the bike shuttle to Braulins. And then a dream comes true for all three of them: paddling on the Fella and Tagliamento rivers. "The fact that we can paddle here today is almost a miracle. It's only possible because of the heavy rain the day before! So looking back, it wasn't bad at all that we had to suffer a bit yesterday. Simply amazing," says Toby.
There is no visible entry point in Chiusaforte, which is why Markus, Oliver and Toby have to climb down a steep ladder to the river and lower the SUPs over a wall. The first beautiful white water passages follow immediately. The water level was just high enough to only have to carry us through short sections. In the narrow valley, the Fella flows in an extensive gravel bed with branching channels. The paddlers have to decide which branch of the river to follow and which has enough water. Not so easy. They also have to portage around three weirs before reaching the confluence with the Tagliamento. There are no signposted transfer points here. At the confluence with the Tagliamento, the river carries more water. But: the gravel bed becomes wider and wider, the river arms more and thus the water per arm less. The riverbed of the Tagliamento, one of the last wild rivers in Europe, is over 500 metres wide in some places, but the watercourse is only a few metres wide.
Full of joy, Toby shouts as the group arrives at the day's destination in Braulins after 33 exciting kilometres on the SUP: "That was mega today! We had the perfect day!" And then another wish is fulfilled for everyone: They spend the night under a starry sky right by the water on the gravel bed of the Tagliamento. But first they use the Dutch oven, which has been with them as ballast since the start. Toby conjures up an excellent hunter's pie - also known as shepherd's pie - with potatoes, minced meat, peppers and mushrooms. The perfect end to the penultimate day of the Transalp Tour.
Day 7 (Friday, 27 May 2022)
- Braulins → Grado
- Bike: 106 km / 270 metres up / 460 metres down
After a cool night, the last stage of over 100 kilometres requires a good refreshment. Breakfast is taken directly on the Tagliamento on the SUPs as a seat. Then the sea is calling!
Crossing the bridge over the Tagliamento, the three of them leave the wide valley of the wild river behind them. The route leads straight towards Udine, the first intermediate destination. At Buja, however, the cyclists crossing the Alps are stopped by another cycling stage race: the Giro d'Italia. The 19th stage crosses the Alpe-Adria Cycle Path. Forced break for around 30 minutes at the side of the road. The field of riders races past, leaving only a short time to cheer.
The group takes it easy on the last day - so a short sightseeing tour on an e-bike through Udine is included. They cycle past the castle, the cathedral and the central squares. They then treat themselves to an ice cream in the old town centre. Halfway to the sea, the architectural highlight of the day awaits: the star-shaped fortified town of Palmanova, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017 for good reason. The layout, which was laid out in the 16th century and has been preserved to this day - with a moat, city walls and impressive city gates - fascinates everyone. "How unique is this city, please? We almost drove past it to take a shortcut. That would have been a big mistake," says Markus as he stands with Oliver and Toby in the town square with a large Italian flag on the pole in the centre of the old town and high-fives them.
From Palmanova, the small caravan travels along the Via Iulia Augusta via Aquileia to the coast. The first view of the sea, the lagoon and the destination of Grado on the horizon triggers pure joy: "We're almost there!" cheers Toby. The adventurers reach Grado shortly after 10.00 pm via a road on a causeway and the historic Giacomo Matteotti bridge. Friends are waiting for them at the campsite with a champagne shower: "What we have experienced over the last seven days is unique. The tour with you makes me happy and proud at the same time," says Oliver with tears in his eyes. "Thank you for doing the tour with me and ticking off an item on my bucket list. It was simply fantastic. Fantastico!", summarises initiator Toby. After over 35 hours in the saddle and almost 10 hours on the SUP - pure cycling and paddling time - to get from Prien am Chiemsee to Grado on the Adriatic - a unique experience for everyone. And it won't be the last! That's what the three friends swear to each other right now.
