We visited these spots in Peru:
Pacasmayo had actually always been on my wish list until I was finally able to travel there in 2017. Since then - except during the pandemic - I've been back every year, most recently for three months. So you can guess how much I enjoy the surfing conditions and how reliable the spot is. The waves are usually quite tame but still always offer something to learn on. The long paddles back to the point are almost meditative when you've just caught the longest wave of your life. The more often you surf the same waves with pelicans, enjoy the view of the golden desert when the pier and the promenade are bathed in the faint light of the setting sun, or see the lighthouse shining as you ride the last wave back to the shore. It puts a smile on your face until you wake up the next day - and wish for exactly the same thing again. It's not for nothing that the place is also called Pacasmagic. Even the Mochicas knew that the Peruvian waves were meant to be ridden. But there is so much more to discover.
Peru's nature is rich and diverse: with the Amazon jungle, the Andean highlands and a spectacular, seemingly endless coastline. The culture is fascinating: Machu Picchu and Cusco top the list of dozens of world-famous archaeological sites. The gastronomy is famous. It is also the birthplace of an early form of stand-up paddling, as the local fishermen paddled their "caballitos de totora" (reed horses) in the waters of Huanchaco, a beautiful surf spot in Trujillo, actually already standing on the waves. There is evidence on pottery dating back more than 3000 years that these Mochica fishermen actually surfed on the beaches of Huanchaco. The good surfing conditions are complemented by a pleasant climate.
This is because the Peruvian winter is also mild, especially in the northern regions, and although the water is cool (long wetsuit), the temperatures on land are pleasant, with slightly cooler nights. The beaches are less frequented by national tourists at this time of year (it's the Peruvian low season) and many holidaymakers who come to Peru are more focused on visiting archaeological sites than surfing. For surfers from neighbouring countries, there are few reasons to travel as they are blessed by the same southern swells that hit the Peruvian coast, and the local surf scene is not yet developed enough for there to be crowded peaks in most places.
The entire coast of Peru is exposed to the southern swells of the Pacific, even in the capital Lima there are many fantastic and rarely crowded spots. But the further north you go, the more beautiful and less foggy the weather is, even if the water is still cold due to the Humboldt current. During the south swell season (from April to October), I explored the most important spots. Chicama, Pacasmayo and Lobitos turned out to be my favourites. I would recommend staying at one of these beaches - but always be prepared for excursions to other spots. Of the three, Lobitos is much busier, so I would still favour Chicama or Pacasmayo.
Pacasmayo
Pacasmayo is a real swell magnet that catches even the smallest swells. I am probably not exaggerating when I say that it is never less than about head-high and yet it can withstand even the biggest waves and is never overcrowded. The light, offshore afternoon breeze is perfect for windsurfing and wingfoiling.
Pacasmayo is a city, much larger than Chicama and Lobitos, which experienced its heyday in the days of the guano trade and as a hub for tobacco transport. The centre is clearly its majestic pier, which used to lead directly to one of the most important trade routes in the north of the country. Today, the city is experiencing something of a renaissance following the pandemic, which has hit the country particularly hard. With the slow reopening of shops and restaurants, Pacasmayo is returning as a charming and thriving town, with its beautiful beach promenade, attractive pier, originally as much as 700 metres long, and of course its iconic lighthouse.
In Pacasmayo you will find all kinds of accommodation, either directly in front of the town or a little further into town, as well as numerous restaurants, car hire companies, repair shops, a large supermarket, two large food markets with delicious fruit and lots of fresh fish. You don't need your own car, as everything is within walking distance, or you can take a mototaxi (tuk-tuk) to the city and back. Social life in Pacasmayo is not as easy to connect with as in other surf and SUP destinations. There are not many tourists and although the locals are interested and very friendly towards strangers, they often keep their distance with a certain shyness. If you want to make friends with the Pacasmayinos, you have to do your bit to make sure you meet nice, caring and respectful people.
Like many other spots on this coast, Pacasmayo offers excellent conditions for surfing and stand-up paddling in the morning. The wind usually picks up around midday: for kitesurfing, windsurfing or wingfoiling. The spot does not require a high swell for good waves. However, as it is a large point break with a lot of moving water, the current can always be quite strong, especially with a large south swell. On days with small waves, you can at least hold on to the point a little better with a SUP than surfers, but with big waves, I also recommend stand-up paddlers hire a surf boat to take you back to the point after every wave ride. Because unlike Chicama and Lobitos, where you can paddle to the shore and walk back to the point, in Pacasmayo you surf very far from the shore. You could take a moto-taxi back to the point in the lighthouse for a few US dollars, but the boat is definitely the best option. For a three-hour surf session, you can expect to pay 20 dollars per person.
In contrast to Chicama, when the wind picks up at midday, it gets choppier on the wave as the spot is not protected from the afternoon breeze by high cliffs like in Chicama. On days with small waves, Pacasmayo is perfect for larger SUPs or surf longboards. When the waves get bigger, the spot turns into an amusement park for all types of surfboards, whether SUP, shortboard or fishboard. Then there are big, steep waves that are perfect for improving turns in the wave and learning to surf bigger waves. From a paddler's point of view, Pacasmayo is centrally located and well connected. Chicama's famous "Left" is only about 45 minutes away, perfect for an escape to a smaller but more powerful wave whenever the swell in Pacasmayo gets very big.
Other waves such as Puemape (25 minutes away) and Huanchaco (near Trujillo, approx. 1.5 to 2 hours' drive) are also easy to reach. Long-distance buses leave directly from the central bus station and take you further north, where well-known breaks such as Lobitos, Los Organos and Negritos are waiting to be surfed. You can find lots of information about the popular surf spots on Surfline and Magicseaweed. If you fancy even more discoveries, leave your wetsuit behind and hop on a bus to Ecuador to continue exploring the endless coast of South America.
Chicama
Located around 45 minutes south of Pacasmayo, Chicama has one of the longest and best left-hand waves in the world. It's a perfect wave like something out of a dream, and contrary to what you might expect, it's not completely overcrowded - especially when there's no big swell in the forecast. The wave is so long that the crowds quickly disperse. Chicama is not a particularly difficult wave and the atmosphere is usually very relaxed and welcoming. On quieter days, you might meet a dozen surfers. Only when a big south swell is forecast does the place fill up a little more. Here, too, the wind usually picks up in the late afternoon, but the Chicama wave retains its shape even in stronger winds as it is quite well protected by the high cliffs above the beach. Nevertheless, the strong offshore gusts can be a bit of a nuisance for stand-up paddling, as you are blown back hard when paddling out, making it difficult to catch the wave.
And the current is also strong in Chicama. You can try to hold on to the point with a SUP, but most surfers let themselves drift with the current and then grab a wave on the way when a set comes and then either walk back along the beach or take a surf boat to the point. A private surf boat costs $100 for a group of four, or you can join a shared boat, which costs around $20 per person. You can triple or quadruple your number of wave rides per day if you take a boat instead of walking. Chicama is a small fishing village that has made a name for itself as a surfing destination, and the charming beach promenade with its small shops and restaurants definitely has a touch of surfer vibe. There are several upmarket hotels right in front of the point, as well as numerous affordable surf hostels and flats to suit all budgets.
Lobitos
Lobitos is located about seven hours north of Pacasmayo, just a few hours from Peru's northern border with Ecuador. Lobitos is isolated in a desert landscape full of oil pumps and gas pipelines and offers one of the best waves I have ever surfed.
The climate here in the north is already somewhat drier, warmer and sunnier than in Pacasmayo, but the water is still quite cool due to the Humboldt Current. The wave in Lobitos is quite fast, hollow and perfect. It breaks just a few metres from the beach, with a vertical wall that stands quite long, giving you a comfortable margin for take-offs and timing your turns. As it breaks so close to the shore, the luxury of getting onto the dry sand after a wave ride and walking back to the point without paddling against the current is included.
Here you'll meet experienced surfers having fun in the same waves where, a few metres away, beginners are getting their first instructions from the local surf instructors. As it is such a popular spot that is fun, easy to surf, offers good waves, is sunny and warmer than most other spots in Peru, it can of course be crowded at times, especially when the swell is high. The mood among surfers at the Peak can then change dramatically depending on who is in the water - generally it is quite welcoming, but definitely not always. The paradox here is that Lobitos definitely needs a bigger swell than Pacasmayo to work properly, so it's best to go with the forecast - but then again you have to expect crowds. Maybe go for a medium forecast? Haha, good luck!
In Lobitos, fishing village and surfing town merge in a peculiar way, with a little oil exploitation thrown in for good measure. Whilst the village suffers from a shortage of water, it is rich in oil underground. Drilling rigs, oil pumps and gas pipelines will constantly surround you. You surf near oil platforms, some of which have been abandoned and turned into artificial reefs. On the coast, the oil pumps chug incessantly, their arms rhythmically pumping up the black gold hidden beneath the desert landscape.
Despite the oil and gas extraction, Lobitos beach is beautiful, with a charming atmosphere and many national and international surfers, who not only enjoy the perfect waves here. Pelicans and surfers circle together at the pier, waiting for the daily catch to be brought ashore. Lobitos has a well-developed surf scene and offers accommodation for backpackers on a budget through to luxury surf accommodation for those who spend considerably more on their surf holiday. I wouldn't set up base camp in Lobitos, but I would definitely put it on my list of must-visit spots if the swell forecast is good.
Info Peru
Best time to travel
The Peruvian coast is exposed to both south and north swells, which means that you can surf almost all year round. In the Peruvian winter months, from April to October, the south swells form the endless "lefts" (ed.: wave that is surfed to the left as seen from the water) of Pacasmayo and Chicama. The waves are bigger and more consistent, and although the water is a little colder, the weather is more stable and less stormy. I've always travelled at this time of year and have never been disappointed. The north swell comes from the same wave systems that hit the north coast of Hawaii from October to April - the summer months in Peru. The water gets warmer then, but the swells are less regular and it can be a bit rainy. Nevertheless, the same surf spots work and the waves run faster in northern swells. There are even some surf spots in the Lobitos area that only work with north swells, giving you the chance of epic waves in the Peruvian summer that many surfers won't experience. Between October and April, however, you should ideally have a plan B in mind, perhaps for cultural and nature trips if the waves don't materialise for a while.
Why Pacasmayo at all
Northern Peru is the perfect destination for SUP surfers who want to develop their skills by spending endless hours in the water, becoming increasingly comfortable in bigger waves and catching the longest waves of their lives.
If you don't mind a long wetsuit and just want to switch off and surf for hours in the water on empty waves, this is your place. If you want to improve your frontside or backside turns on "left" waves, you can practise so many turns on a single wave that you'll forget to count. On medium swells, when the waves are still split, you can choose between different take-off spots, whether you want to practise more aggressive take-offs or prefer a more relaxed wave. On some days the waves get very big, but there are no unpleasant rocks, reefs, sharks or shorebreaks. It's the place to catch perhaps some of the biggest and longest waves of your life, without the unnecessary dangers of many other surf spots. When the swell gets even bigger and pushes into the XXL range, it's a spectacular sight. Triple to quadruple head-high waves that run perfectly into infinity and seemingly beyond.
