IN CANNES, AROUND CANNES, AROUND CANNES
Everyone knows Cannes - at least from television: Film festivals, palm trees, glamour and a meeting place for the rich. But imagine you're a seagull flying west for a moment. There, beautiful ochre-yellow and red rocks fall into the water and mix with the blue of the Côte d'Azur to create a surrealistic play of colours. A few wing beats to the east, Cap d'Antibe juts out into the Mediterranean. The evergreen pine forests suggest an endless summer. The richest people in the world own houses here. Well, and then there is the well-heeled Cannes as one imagines it: with its centre, its famous palm promenade La Croisette, its luxury hotels, yachts and Ferraris - trifles in a world of seagulls and stand-up paddlers. If it weren't for the Lérins Islands, a small archipelago about five kilometres off the coast of Cannes. The beauty of this archipelago has certainly made the mouths of many property agents water. However, they are protected and an absolute paradise for paddlers - and of course for seagulls.
THE SUN CAN DO IT IN CANNES
Cannes' strength is its climate. It is always mild here. No wonder the world's rich and famous are drawn to this city like mosquitoes to light. Temperatures remain pleasantly mild in winter, but the summer is also bearable thanks to the refreshing sea breeze. Alongside the island of Corsica, the area around Cannes is the mildest region in France. The Alps are not far away, so there can be cloud jams and heavy downpours in spring and autumn. This is also a blessing, as Cannes enjoys lush greenery despite the Mediterranean climate. Another plus point for stand-up paddlers: due to its geographical location, the strong Mistral or Tramontana winds do not make it to this coast. The lack of wind has driven many a local windsurfer to despair. However, southeast winds make it to Cannes, especially in winter, and make the water choppy. In high summer, however, it is only the many yachts that stir up the water. Anyone planning long trips along the coast should keep a close eye on the weather. The Côte d'Azur is not a forest lake and is capable of major weather caprices. Local weather forecasts are not necessarily trustworthy for SUP riders, as even summer thermals between April and August (especially in the Estérel mountains) make paddling difficult.
CANNES CAN DO NO MORE
I could suggest a nice SUP promenade along the Croisette, but who wants to admire one luxury hotel after another? A few kilometres east of Cannes, on the other hand, you can easily enjoy the richness of the surroundings: on the Cap d'Antibe peninsula. Even if small beaches are rare at the tip of the cape, you will want to explore every bay. Here and there, a pompous villa betrays the showbiz, financial or sporting background of its owner, who, like us water sports enthusiasts, enjoy the enchanting nature and flair of the Mediterranean. The difference: we don't pay millions of euros for the view - and for one paddle stroke, we are even better off with our freedom than any star. With our heads held high, we also enjoy breathing in the flair of the Bay of Billionaires (Baie des Milliardaires), where the splendour of the flowers dips unabashedly into the blue of the sea. The best starting point for a tour of the Baie des Milliardaires is the sweet beach "Plage des Ondes", recognisable by the small tower and the fine sandy beach. On a clear day, you can even admire the Alps from here.
CANNES NIX
Cannes, Nice and the Côte d'Azur are magic words in people's heads. And every summer, this brainwashing causes a mass invasion. The Côte d'Azur is a victim of its success. Urbanisation has transformed the idyll of the 1950s into a proportionally incompatible development: unsightly housing estates, motorways, mass traffic and pollution. You can hardly breathe in Nice in summer. The smallest piece of land on the coast is worth its weight in gold. Everything is being sold, building is going on everywhere, speculation is taking place - at the expense of nature and the actual beauty, which is why everyone wants to live or holiday here. The worst time is the height of summer, from July to August, when even the water refuge is polluted with yachts and motorboats. Nevertheless, the region has an irresistible charm. The hinterland in particular, far away from the hustle and bustle, is well worth a visit.
CAN CANNES BE QUIET?
Peace and meditative exuberance in Cannes? There is a simple solution - just 50 seagull wings away from the centre: the Lérins Islands. The first island is one kilometre from the mainland. If you want to paddle over there, you should have safety equipment (leash, spare paddle, water, etc.) with you. If you want to take a more leisurely approach, you can also take a small ferry from the harbour in Cannes several times a day (iSUPs are ideal for this). My heart beats for the slightly smaller island of Saint-Honorat. You can cross it on foot in five minutes. The monastery and the surrounding vineyards are stunning. The monks who live here make a wine that has become famous beyond the borders of France - and beyond the borders of our wallets. What a shame - I love wine. The fort has been watching over the bay of Cannes for several thousand years. Between Saint-Honorat and Sainte-Marguerite, you can enjoy paddling under pine trees and slice through Caribbean waters. The larger island of Sainte-Marguerite is not as dreamy, but more varied. There are hotels here and even a small lake. The islands are not only rich in natural beauty and history, they are also teeming with tourists in summer. That's why the low season is ideal for paddlers, because we know: The sun always feels at home here.
ARMES CANNES
When I talk about poverty, I'm talking about wave poverty, of course. The Basque Country is a long way away and Cannes is spared the most violent storms. Nevertheless, the locals know their surf spots, where it can be fun with the SUP board, especially in winter. The only chance of experiencing waves is when the swell rolls in from the south-east or east. The rest is pure luck and statistically worthless. Big waves from the south can be experienced at Mandelieu beach, a well-known beach break for surfers. With an easterly swell, Mouré Rouge beach in the east of Cannes can produce a small wave. At Cap d'Antibe, waves can break from many directions. Croûton is a good beginner's spot with south-easterly swell. However, the Ondes beach is better known. The waves break on the rocks to the left and right. Experts can tackle a somewhat steeper wave in La Garoupe with north-east swell. The Lérins Islands are also an option for experts. And right in front of the fort of Saint-Honorat there are beautiful waves for stand-up paddlers and surfers. Beware: it can be dangerous here on stormy days. But people who come to Cannes don't come for the waves, they come for the film stars, the Croisette, the luxury hotels, the yachts and, of course, the Ferraris. Right?
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THE THREE BEST TOURS
The island tour by Céline Guesdon
A tour suggested by SUP pro and local hero Céline Guesdon (for advanced surfers): Start: Moure Rouge at the Island Feeling surf shop directly on the Pointe Croisette with a large car park. Tour: The route is about ten kilometres long. You should plan at least half a day for the tour, but preferably a whole day. You leave the city of Cannes past the casino and the Cap de Croisette and cross over to the larger of the two Lérins islands, île Sainte-Marguerite, for about one kilometre. Depending on the wind direction, you can choose to paddle round either clockwise or anti-clockwise. The most beautiful paddling moments can be experienced on the second, smaller island, île Saint-Honorat.
The Tour l'Estérel by Stéphane Peillon
A tour suggestion from the owner of the Bat'ski surf shop Stéphane Peillon (easy). Start: at the Plage de la Figueirette beach. Tour: From the beach, paddle leisurely westwards towards Cap Roux in the morning. The route is in the middle of the nature reserve and is just four kilometres long there and back. Caution: If the mistral does come to Cannes, you should avoid this tour.
The Cap d'Antibes tour by Jean-Denis Mouchon
A tour suggested by Jean-Denis Mouchon, the president of the SUP school Paddling in Antibes (easy). Start: in calm conditions on the Plage des Ondes beach, just after the harbour on the west side of the peninsula. You can park in the small road opposite the beach. If it is overcrowded there, the Plage des Pêcheurs beach with car park is an alternative. Tour: Paddle south towards - and as far as - Baie des Milliardaires. The tour takes no longer than two hours. It's best to start in the morning, as from midday the area is teeming with yachts and boats. Experienced paddlers can also extend the tour to the Plage de la Garoupe in the east. You will then have circumnavigated the peninsula.
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INFO CANNES
Directions From Munich via the Brenner motorway, then towards Milan, Piacenza, Genoa to Nice and Cannes (round trip toll approx. 150 euros). From Freiburg/Bésançon via Lion to Cannes (return journey approx. 100 euros toll).
Climate/travelling time As described in the text: The sun is already shining in March. Nevertheless, storms and prolonged rainfall can also determine the weather in the winter months. The best time is September to the end of October, as the water is warm. From April to June, the vegetation literally explodes, but the water is fresh, especially in spring (15-18 °C).
Hotel/Camping - Good value for money: Le Patio, Théoule sur Mer, 48 avenue de Miramar, Théoule sur Mer, tel. 0033/4/93/750023 - Family-run and just two steps from the sea: Hôtel familial California, Golfe Juan, tel. 0033/4/93/637863 - Upscale on Cap d'Antibe: Hôtel Beausite, 141 Boulevard Kennedy, tel. 0033/4/93615343 - Campsite, well-kept and close to the beach: Park Belle Vue in Bocca, www.parcbellevue.com
Further useful addresses: www.cannes-destination.fr/se-loger-cannes/residences-canneswww.antibesjuanlespins.com/fr/hotelswww.theoule-sur-mer.org
Schools/rental - Bat'ski: 25 Avenue du Trayas, Théoule-sur-Mer, tel. 0033/4/93/750239, rental equipment from RRD, SUP guiding, SUP fitness and yoga, children's courses - Mandelieu Stand-up Club: 809 Boulevard des Écureuils, tel. 0033/6/11252829. SUP group beginner courses - Paddling in Antibes Centre: Tel. 0033/6/ 18083510. www.paddlinginantibes-center.com
Surf/SUP shops - Island Feeling Surf Shop at Pointe Croisette, 25 Avenue Reine Astrid, Cannes, tel. 0033/4/93/434048 - Billabong Cannes, sales and hire, tel. 0033/4/93/391689 - Cannes Stand-up Paddle Location, Naish equipment, tel. 0033/6/82/17087, www.cannesstanduppaddle.fr - Airxkite, Scho, school and hire, 110 Boulevard du Midi, Cannes la Bocca, tel. 0033/4/93/930658 - Freeride Attitude, Fréjus, tel. 0033/4/94/517300 - No limit, Saint-Laurent-du-Var, tel. 0033/4/93/319595
Restaurants There are many nice restaurants in the Rue du Suquet in the historic centre of Cannes. Further tips: - Snack La Cabane, Avenue de Lérins, tel. 0033/4/92/593539 - Le Couby's Café, 3 Bd de Lorraine, tel. 0033/4/93/300337 - La Tonnelle, on the island of Saint-Honorat (April to September), tel. 0033/4/92995408. - Le Spot, Port de Mandelieu la Napoule, tel. 0033/4/93/492883
Tips in Antibes: - L'Ilette, 2 Avenue des Chênes, tel. 0033/4/93/614043 - Mamalu, 11 Cours Masséna, tel. 0033/4/93/344007 - Entre deux vins, 2 Rue James Close, tel. 0033/4/93/344693
Ferries from Cannes to the Lérins Islands Ferries run daily and all year round. A return journey costs 13 euros. - Trans Côte d'Azur, tel. 0033/4/92987130, www.trans-cote-azur.com - Riviera Lines, tel. 0033/4/92/987131, www.riviera-lines.com - SARL Horizon, tel. 0033/4/92/987136, www.horizon-iles-lerins-cannes.com - Planaria, tel. 0033/4/92/987138, www.cannes-ilesdelerins.com
