The smell of herbs, salty sea, wild lavender and cypresses alone is reminiscent of a holiday. In summer, tourists from all over Europe flock to the beaches between Montpellier and Toulon. Fortunately, however, the mistral regularly clears the beaches of parasols and the air of exhaust fumes from the city of Marseille. Instead of the gentle scent of herbs, there is drifting sand, salt in the air and grinning windsurfers on the beach.
We present these spots in this article:
- 1) St Maries de la Mer
- 2) Beauduc
- 3) Piemanson
- 4) Napoleon plague
- 5) L'Anse Carteau
- 6) Plage Olga
- 7) Fos sur Mer/ Cavaou
- 8) Renaires
- 9) Carro
- 10) Sausset
- 11) Etang de Berre
- 12) Marseille Prado
- 13) Marseille Pointe-Rouge
- 14) La Ciotat
- 15) Les Lecques
- 16) Bandol
- 17) Brutal Beach
- 18) La Coudouliere
- 19) Le Brusc
- 20) Les Sablettes
And because the landscape between the gentle Camargue in the north and the storm-battered foothills of the Cote d'Azur is so varied, windsurfers will find everything their hearts desire on this section of the French coast in a very small area: flat speed strips, freestyle playgrounds, moderate waves or crashing reef breaks.
So it's no surprise that this small region has produced some of the best windsurfers on the planet in various disciplines, and when it's not World Cup season, you can regularly meet locals such as wave world champion Thomas Traversa, wave hotshot Loick Lesauvage or slalom ace Cyril Moussilmani at the spots around Marseille. You too will have fun here, no matter what you feel like doing on the water. Just follow your preferences and this spot guide!
Salute, your Jean Souville
Click through the best surf spots around Marseille:
General information about windsurfing in the south of France
Journey
The ideal way to get there is by car or camper van; it is just over 1000 kilometres from Cologne and Munich to Marseille. You should plan to pay around 5 euros toll per 100 kilometres. Flights to Marseille are also available cheaply from many German airports, so a spontaneous trip can be worthwhile if the forecast is good. It is advisable to check the prices for surf baggage, especially with low-cost airlines, as these are often charged by the kilometre.
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendation
To the east of Montpellier, the Tramontana hands over the sceptre to its no less powerful brother, the Mistral. This is caused by cold air from the north when a low pressure system moves eastwards over northern France. The incoming cold air is channelled in the Rhone Valley and then blows as a cold downdraft from the northwest. This weather situation can occur all year round, but such systems are most common between October and May. It is not uncommon for the mistral to reach gale force, so small sails are a must when travelling to the south of France. Even in summer, temperatures can be cool when the mistral is strong, but a 4/3 neo is sufficient when the water temperature is around 23 degrees (August). In the winter months, the water temperature never drops below 13 degrees, but as the air can get much colder, shoes and a bonnet should also be part of your basic equipment. The best combination of wind and warmth can be found in late autumn and between April and June.
If the mistral is very northerly, the Bouches-Du-Rhones region between Saintes Maries and Port St. Louis is extremely favoured. Here it sometimes blows at 50 knots, while there is no wind in Marseille. The "normal" mistral blows from the north-west, reaching virtually all spots in the region. If the mistral blows more from the west, head for the area around Toulon, as the northern spots will then be covered. So before you set off, always check the exact wind direction - if you are mobile, you will surf here on average at least 50 per cent of the days of the year. In warm weather, the mistral often fights against thermals that get stronger as the day progresses, so the morning hours are usually better during summer mistral phases. Another reliable source of fun in summer is the warm, humid wind from the south to south-east called "Marin". Although it rarely reaches wind speeds of over six, it brings consistently good conditions with nice waves, especially in the area around Fos.
Jeans Tip: You can find live wind data for all spots at www.baston.fr
Shafts
Yes, considerable waves can also occur in the Mediterranean, especially when the Mistral is strong from the north-west and the Marin from the south-east. The waves usually remain moderate at one to two metres, but when the mistral is firing from all cylinders, the spots around Marseille can get as high as a mast. Then you can either watch the world champions (or the other locals) play or look for a quieter spot.
Living & Camping
There are many options for both, as long as you are not travelling in the height of summer - during the holiday season, little is possible without pre-booking. Even in the age of the internet, it is still quite common (and successful) in France to enquire about available rooms at the tourist office. In the low season, wild camping is still tolerated, so the rule is: take your rubbish with you! In the high season, however, you will be charged on the spot and should check into a campsite by then at the latest.
surf tipAn overview of the numerous offers is also available via the "Camping Cheque" app.
Camping near the spot (selection):
- Sainte Maries de la Mer: www.camping-labrise.fr / www.camping-leclos.fr
- Fos sur Mer www.portdebouc-tourisme.fr
- Carro: www.leschaletsdelamer.com
- Sausset: www.camping-le-mas.com
- La Ciotat: www.camping-dusoleil.com / http://en.laciotat.info
- Les Lecques: www.campinglesbaumelles.fr
- Bandol:Camping les Girelles (+33 494 74 5316)
- Brutal Beach/Coudouliere: www.camping-six-fours.com
Surf Schools & Clubs:
- Saintes Maries: www.ecoledevoile.camargue.fr
- L'Anse Carteau: www.mistralkitepassion.com
- Renaires: www.hotschool.wordpress.com
- Etang de Berre/Marignane: www.cnmarignanais.fr
- Etang de Berre/Martigues: www.cerclenautiquederognac.fr
- Marseille/Pointe-Rouge: www.pacific-palissades.com / www.ycpr.net / www.eaulargedenoe.fr
- La Ciotat: www.neptuneclub-laciotat.com
- Les Lecques: www.sngl.fr
- Bandol: www.sn-bandol.com
- Le Brusc: www.lacahute.com
- Les Sablettes: www.ycsablettes.org
Surf shops:
- Fos sur Mer: www.lavoilelibre.com
- Carro: www.marinsurfshop.com
- Etang de Berre/Martigues www.hot-mer.com
- Marseille/Pointe-Rouge www.gliss-attitude.com
- Brutal Beach: www.64sup.blogspot.de
Shady sides
A serious spot guide to the south of France cannot ignore the darker sides of the region: The area around Marseille is one of the hottest spots in France. Economic decline, uncontrolled growth in the suburbs combined with drug-related crime and youth unemployment have turned the northern neighbourhoods of Marseille into no-go areas. At the spots in the neighbourhood, thieves regularly watch surfers hiding their car keys. You should therefore always take your keys with you, leave no valuables in the car and show this by leaving the curtains and glove compartment open. Do not leave any valuables in the car in supermarket car parks and petrol stations either, or always stay in the car with one person. In addition to crime, the problem of rubbish is the second obstacle to having fun - unfortunately, the water and beaches around Marseille are often dirty. Even if there is little you can do about it on the water, everyone should do their bit. Take your rubbish with you when you go camping and don't leave anything behind!
Last but not least - the crowds: As nice as it is to see that windsurfing is alive and kicking, the spots get very crowded in high summer. Hundreds of surfers are not uncommon in Carro or La Coudouliere, so find out about the rules in the wave, be respectful and also a little patient.
Windsurfing in the south of France - the best spots around Marseille
1) St Maries de la Mer
North-westerly winds are more moderate here than in Port-St.-Louis. However, when the wind comes a little further north, which often happens at the end of a mistral phase, it is strongest in Saintes Maries and it is not uncommon for it to be brutal. This is why speed records were broken here in pre-Lüderitz times. The canal still exists, and if there is enough water in it, you can still ride it. But you can also work on your personal record at the main spot to the east of the harbour in full offshore winds or use the perfect flat water to work on jibes or freestyle tricks. It's empty here in the low season, the next bit of land is Sardinia, so be careful! A south-easterly wind also comes through, then you can surf west of the harbour pier in quite onshore but always jumpable conditions with wind from the left, the waves break on sand. There are car parks for camper vans and campsites on site, and a small surf school is open in summer ( www.ecoledevoile.camargue.fr ). The only downside: mosquitoes!
2) Beauduc
The spot at the end of the world - during the 15 kilometres over sandy tracks through the nature park, past flamingos and wild horses, the feeling of freedom and adventure inevitably arises. There is no infrastructure at the spot, you have to bring everything you need with you. Windsurfers, kiters and ravers, who once annexed this area, have also been restricted in Beauduc. Womos are barred due to a barrier - surfing takes place in the south-west at the western end of the spot. If there is a mistral (NW), which is often very strong here, you can quickly find a spot along the crescent-shaped bay with wind from the right. Moderate waves arise as soon as the mistral breaks the 20-knot mark, then you can jump around here without the risk of drifting. Caution: lots of kiters and shallow sandbanks in places! With south-westerly winds, nice waves come in on the eastern part of the spot.
3) Piemanson
Coming from Salins de Giraud, the road to the spot leads past the remains of the salt industry to Piemanson. You can park directly at the spot. If the wind blows offshore from the north-west, which is very often the case, you will find the finest shallow water conditions here for heating up and doing tricks. The only problem: if something goes wrong, Sardinia is the next piece of land, so don't go out alone! Westerly winds can provide nice jumping sessions with side to sideon from the right, but the current is considerable. Marin from the south-east also shovels considerable waves onto the beach, but the conditions are then chaotic.
4) Napoleon plague
A quirky place - wild and natural on the one hand, but also with the dubious charm of the big industry of Port-St.-Louis on the other. You can love or hate the scenery, the conditions speak for themselves: when the Mistral fires, the smallest sails are rigged here, east of the Rhone estuary. The NW blows fully offshore over a large sandy beach, the water is as smooth as glass and ideal for speading, it only gets dangerous when the material breaks. The west can offer clean waves with side-off, while the south-east is flat onshore. The current is always noticeable, especially in wave conditions.
5) L'Anse Carteau:
Even if the many kiters and dubious industrial charm often deter windsurfers from this spot to the east of the pier, it is worth the trip for all freeriders. Surfing in shallow water is much safer than at Plage Napoleon. The spot is also covered by waves in south-easterly winds. Don't forget your seaweed fin in summer! The Centre Nautique Mer et Passion kite centre (www.mistralkitepassion.com) also has a few windsurf boards in its range.
6) Plage Olga
This small stretch of beach is often mentioned as an alternative in SE winds. It borders directly on the container harbour of Port-St.-Louis, the conditions are moderate because the wind blows fully onshore and a few waves only come through in strong SE winds. A spot that you can safely skip!
7) Fos sur Mer/ Cavaou
The large sandy bay attracts freeriders and freestyle tricksters all year round. The offshore and gusty mistral wind flattens out choppy waves and conjures up perfectly flat water! The southeast offers moderate surf waves up to two metres high, with sideonshore winds from the left - perfect for jumping and safe wave riding. Westerly winds are also possible, but weaker than at other spots. The surf shop "La Voile Libre" ( www.lavoilelibre.com ) is on site.
8) Renaires
South of the small harbour of Renaires, in the sheltered bay of Anse de Bonnieu, you can heat up in a small windchop with normal NW and SE winds. The mobile surf school Hot School ( www.hotschool.wordpress.com ) sometimes stops here. If swell from the west and NNW wind come together, things get hardcore a few metres further north, in front of the small harbour: a powerful wave then breaks on a flat reef - in combination with the current, gusty side-offshore wind, sea urchins and rocks, Renaires takes no prisoners. Even with wind from the south-east to the south, the wind from the left is a blast here: waves with punch make the spot a playground for wave experts! The approach is a little tricky - coming from Martigues, take the N5 and the Route de Ponteau in the direction of the red and white towers of the thermal power station.
9) Carro
THE wave spot of the region! When the mistral blows from the NW, it's mostly flat here, like on a quarry pond, and the wave machine only gets going when the wind blows from the west. In W to WNW, the waves turn around the cape and deliver powerful breakers and the finest side-offshore conditions for riding from the right. It becomes particularly selective during storms - a rocky entry, powerful waves, strong currents and rocks downwind require wave experience. If you want to scrap your gear, you can buy it at the Le Marin surf shop ( www.marinsurfshop.com ) get a replacement. Carro is also great with a south-easterly wind, with sideonshore from the left and the best jumping conditions. Sometimes Carro becomes unrideable in SE gales, so there's no shame in going to Fos. You can park directly at the spot, but it often gets extremely crowded on the water at weekends.
10) Sausset
The good news about Sausset is that it is less crowded here than in Carro. The bad news is that the spot rarely works and is no less dangerous. A normal NW mistral is too offshore and gusty, but when the wind blows from the west, the spot comes into shape and offers clean sideshore conditions for riding from the right. The entrance is narrow and is located directly east of the harbour. Watch out for the stone piers downwind, many surfers have destroyed their equipment here. There are also great conditions with side- to sideonshore from the left at E-SE, where you can jump and ride off at the same time. Further upwind at the foot of the cliff "Le Virage" is a great wave for riding.
11) Etang de Berre
The "Etang de Berre" with its long dam ("Le Jai") is one of the most popular all-round spots in the area. The mistral blows fully onshore and regularly brings waves of up to one metre for small jumping sessions at the western end of the dam, near Chateauneuf. The further east you go towards Marignane, the smoother the water becomes and many slalom and freeride fans come here to hone their manoeuvres. In summer, the Mistral is often at its strongest on the Etang de Berre, and because south-easterly winds and summer thermals from the west also come through well, you are usually in perfect hands here. A seaweed fin can't hurt, the water quality is very moderate. In winter, the water is easily ten degrees colder than the sea. But there is the Hot-Mer surf shop in Martigues ( www.hotmer.com ) and the surf centres "Club Nautique de Marignane" ( www.cnmarignanais.fr ) and the "Club Cercle Nautique de Rognac" ( www.cerclenautiquederognac.fr ) on site.
12) Marseille Prado
If you want to be alone on the water, this is not the place for you - the section of beach known as "Epluchures" is shared with many other water sports enthusiasts. Nevertheless, the atmosphere here is quite relaxed. With a NW wind, Prado becomes a nice wave playground with wind from the right, good for jumping and riding. As the waves break quite moderately, wave novices are also in good hands here. North winds are covered, westerly winds blow more consistently and make the waves bigger. Beware of the groynes, which have already wrecked some equipment. A south-easterly wind is also possible, then there is flat water and some chop further out. You should avoid Prado after heavy rainfall - the water quality is then catastrophic due to overflowing sewers!
13) Marseille Pointe-Rouge
The small sandy beach is shielded from the waves by piers, and thanks to the 100 metre standing area and onshore wind, intermediates, freeriders and trick riders feel equally at home here. If you cross out a little, you can also get nice waves for jumps and backside wave rides when the mistral is strong and blowing northwards. The Gliss Attitude surf shop ( www.glissattitude.com ) and the surfing centres "Pacific Pallisades" ( www.pacific-palissades.com ), "Yachting Club de la Pointe Rouge ( www.ycpr.net ) and "Eau Large de Noe" ( www.eaulargedenoe.fr) can be found at the spot. The only drawback here is a lot of rubbish and dubious water quality.
14) La Ciotat
The sandy bay is framed by two groynes and the best conditions here are with SW and SE winds. Mistral from the north-west is fully offshore and extremely gusty. Summer thermals from the south-west, but especially SE winds bring real fun conditions: Moderate waves for jumping and riding, which run out on sand and can also be mastered by less experienced surfers. You can only park in the neighbouring streets. The Neptune Club is located on site ( www.neptuneclub-laciotat.com ).
15) Les Lecques
One of the cult spots of the 80s, which is only rarely frequented today. The westerly wind comes onshore here and offers good freeride conditions. Moderate waves only run into the beautiful bay at Hack, but this is rarely the case overall. These then break quite powerfully onto the beach. The first 50 metres are shallow and there are no other unseen dangers lurking here. You can launch at both the southern and northern ends of the bay, just be careful of the numerous swimmers. The surf centre "Societe Nautique du Golfe des Lecques" ( www.sngl.fr ) is located directly at the harbour.
16) Bandol
Normal NW mistral has a hard time penetrating the beautiful bay. But if a westerly mistral is hammering all the other spots, Bandol is a good alternative spot with slightly less wind. On the long pebble beach, the westerly wind comes sideonshore from the right, while the south-west becomes increasingly onshore. Upwind of the small rocky outcrop, the waves remain mostly moderate with heights of 1 - 1.5 metres. The "Club Société Nautique de Bandol" surf school is located on site ( www.sn-bandol.com ).
17) Brutal Beach
The spot with the radical name became famous in the 90s and is still frequented by the wave scene today. With NW to westerly winds, you get steep ramps with sideonshore winds from the right in front of the shotgun, north winds come sideshore but gusty. It can get crowded here too. There are often surfers in the water where the best waves are. Stone piers on the shore make it difficult to cross out; if you break one, you can get a replacement in the Nexpa surf shop ( www.64sup.blogspot.de ).
18) La Coudouliere
One of the top wave spots in the region! NNW to WNW come through stronger and earlier than at Brutal Beach. NNW blows sideshore from the right, WNW diagonally onshore. The wave breaks around a point, gets going quickly, runs downwind for a few turns and is also suitable for jumping. It goes without saying that it can get terribly crowded here. On big days, wave greenhorns can quickly end up on the rocks, and on good days there is just as much competition for the few parking spaces as there is for the best waves.
Jeans tipIt's worth buying a parking ticket here, the "parking ticket man" comes regularly!
19) Le Brusc
Not far from the wave spots Coudou and Brutal Beach, you can surf on the sandy beach in Brusc even when it's hacking on flat water and in a relaxed atmosphere. The spot is shielded from waves by the Iles des Embiez in front of it, so freeriders and trickers are among themselves here. The entry is easy, there is endless space on the water and the wind window is large. The only thing to watch out for are some rocks hidden under the water in the shore area. A short trip over to Embiez is tempting and beautiful. There are also car parks and the La Cahute surf school (www.lacahute.com), so you can definitely make it here.
20) Les Sablettes
The small peninsula of St Mandrier has a wave pearl in store with rare east to east-south-easterly winds: Les Sablettes. The waves turn around a cape and form clean side-offshore conditions with wind from the left. It's gusty, but good downwind rides are possible. When it gets big, the spot is not without danger due to the current and the shore break. In the nearby Yacht Club des Sablettes (www.ycsablettes.org), which is located directly at the marina, you can also hire equipment and SUPs in moderate freeride conditions.
If the easterly wind is light and there are no waves in Les Sablettes, you can freeride in the bay of Toulon, in the suburb of Tamaris, in beautiful flat water conditions. You can park in a few places along the shore road at the small marinas.
Also interesting:
This spot guide first appeared in surf 11-12/2015
