Wait and see and drink tea: that's one of the golden rules of the East Frisians. Official statistics have now confirmed that tea drinking is taken seriously in East Frisia: The East Frisians are world champions in tea drinking, with every adult in the area around Aurich sipping around 300 litres a year. And tea is not just drunk on the spur of the moment. Even if East Frisian jokes have been around since before Otto Waalkes, when it comes to tea, the East Frisians can't take a joke. Drinking tea is a ceremony. First the rock candy, the Kluntje, goes into the cup. The freshly brewed tea is poured over it before the cream is added in circles with a small spoon. Under no circumstances should it be stirred, as this brings bad luck! At the very least, it's bad luck.
Apparently someone had stirred their tea this time, because I also had to wait quite a long time and drink tea. The summer of 2021 was very windless and normal weather conditions rarely materialised. In autumn, however, the wind and weather were just right and we set off for Südbrookmerland. With a friend who was fine-tuning the jibe, we headed past curious sheep on the dykes to the Great Sea. Just like the Kleine Meer, the Große Meer is also a so-called shallow moorland lake. And it is indeed shallow. Not quite as shallow as some East Frisian jokes, but at least shallow everywhere. Accordingly, our route led us, sometimes behind tractors, through a lot of flat landscape - criss-crossed by canals in which, interestingly, the water sometimes flows far above the level of the fields.
Lots of countryside, many canals, few and small villages give an idea of how sparsely populated the Southbrookmeerland region used to be. And how poor the area reclaimed from the moor with its barren landscape and poor road network used to be. Where you go on holiday today and enjoy the landscape and tranquillity, people used to live in poor huts and worked hard to drain the land to such an extent that agriculture and livestock farming at least ensured their survival. Perhaps this is where the serenity of the inhabitants comes from, who have always accepted that some things simply cannot be changed.
A few very relaxed surfers were already on the water or were setting up their equipment. And the conditions looked promising: the wind was blowing perfectly from the south and there was plenty of space on the water. We were out accordingly quickly. And the big sea was everything we had hoped it would be. Perfect conditions for beginners and intermediates, a safe feeling and manoeuvring with the comfort of the standing water - even in cooler temperatures without long swims. Nevertheless, there is enough space for speed runs or - to simply explore the area - almost up to the reed belts on the west side of the lake. The fact that the southern part of the Great Sea is closed to water sports enthusiasts does not detract from the fun. There is more than enough space, whether for slalom, freestyle, relaxed cruising or manoeuvring.
As we visited the spot late in the year, the temperatures were no longer particularly warm towards the evening. So it was just the right weather for a cup of tea at the end of the day, in true East Frisian style of course. If you want it to be even more authentic, you should order a Frisian spirit instead of rum in your tea and then marvel at the ceremony that follows. Try it out!
Windsurfing spot Great Sea
The Great Sea is shallow throughout, but has the advantage over many North Sea spots that it is independent of the tide. Due to the shallow water depth, fins over 40 centimetres or foils are not recommended. In principle, all wind directions are possible due to the shallow surrounding area and the shallow water depth. However, winds from southerly directions are best, as then the wind comes across the water unhindered. The shallow water makes it an absolutely safe spot, even in offshore winds. In winter, the water level is sometimes lowered slightly, which also reduces the useful fin length. There is relatively little wind cover on the shore - if the wind comes stronger and longer from the south, it can get a bit choppy. The ground is peaty to sandy, occasionally with stones or roots. On the western side, close to the reeds, the peat layer becomes denser and you sink in a little, but this is not a problem. For nature conservation reasons, the southern section may not be travelled on and kiting is generally prohibited.
There are several ways to get onto the water in the north-east section. You can either enter via the sandy beach in the north in front of the Hotel Landhaus, via the paddle station, at the surf school or the dog meadow. At the latter three access points, you can easily set up on a grassy area, and there is also infrastructure here. Only the entrance itself takes a little getting used to at first and leads over a wooden sheet pile wall about 50 centimetres high, over which you lower your equipment into the water. However, once you have learnt how to do it from the locals, this is no longer a problem. There are footbridges at the paddle and pedal station and at the surf station to make it easier to get in. There are currently plans to add a staircase to the access point. The rest of the shore area is closed for nature conservation reasons or inaccessible due to the reed growth.
Spot Info Big Sea
Journey
The Große Meer is located between Emden and Aurich - around 130 kilometres west of Bremen. The best way to reach the spot is by car. From the Ruhr area, take the A 31, one of the few motorways that is not a constant construction site and where you are not constantly stuck in traffic jams. The last stretch is a country road, all in all very relaxed
Living & Camping
There are holiday flats and other accommodation on the Great Sea, which can be found via the well-known booking platforms on the Internet. In addition to the Hotel Landhaus ( www.hlgm.de ) also has a whole range of holiday homes at the northern end of the Great Sea. About the website www.grossesmeer.de/unterkuenfte-hotels there is a wide range of accommodation to suit almost every taste. At the hotel there is also the option of staying overnight in large barrels with a view of the water.
There are also two campsites on site. The Großes Meer campsite ( www.grossesmeer.de/campinmg ) is located directly on the best spot on the north-east shore of the lake. If you stay here, you can leave your car behind. There is also a motorhome harbour close to the water, which is subject to a fee and has very good infrastructure such as a sauna, sanitary facilities, kiosk and tourist information. However, it is not possible to reserve a parking space at the motorhome car park. Information under https://www.grossesmeer.de/kultur-region/ortschaft-bedekaspel/wohnmobilhafen-grosses-meer-suedbrookmerland . A surf buggy is recommended for transporting the equipment if you don't want to carry everything to the water's edge.
Wind, weather & tips for the neo
The north of Lower Saxony is reliably ventilated. Westerly winds in particular provide the region with ideal surfing conditions. These can occur all year round, but the wind is strongest in the winter months. Autumn is ideal. The shallow inland waters warm up much faster in spring than the North Sea, which is why you can get out on the water in a thin wetsuit after a few warm days in spring - while a bonnet and thick skin are still the order of the day on the North Sea. In autumn, however, things turn around - a few cold days are enough to noticeably reduce the water temperature. The substrate is peat to sandy soil, occasionally with stones or roots. On the western side, close to the reeds, the peat layer becomes denser and you sink in a little, but this is not a problem. However, shoes are generally recommended.
Shops & Schools
Windsurfing Großes Meer, a windsurfing, sailing and wing school, is located on the north-east shore of the water. Information and contact at www.grosses-meer.surf
Alternative programme
Stand-up paddling, sailing, wings or canoeing are alternatives for the days when the wind is not quite enough for gliding. Paddle boat tours are also available; hire is available at the paddle boat station with interesting tour suggestions through various canals and other water areas. There is a large network of cycle paths for windless days. Aurich, Emden and Leer are also not far away. Further alternatives can be found on www.grossesmeer.de/aktivitaeten
In addition to a moor museum, there is also the Münkeboe village museum, where you can feel like you've been transported back in time. There is also the Wiegboldsbur local history museum, which is located in the three-storey Galerieholländerhaus. Info under www.grossesmeer.de/kultur-region
Good to know
In contrast to other inland areas, seaweed is not an issue here. Seagrass fins are sometimes used, but more because of the shallow water depth in some places.
