Text: Maria Andres
As the fourth largest island in the world, Madagascar offers almost 5,000 kilometres of pristine coastline where you can lose yourself in the shades of turquoise and emerald. The island is also known as a "world unto itself" due to its unique evolutionary history and serves not only as a haven for biodiversity, but also as a utopia for adventure, wind and wave enthusiasts. Strategically positioned, along with its popular neighbouring islands of La Réunion and Mauritius, it is directly exposed to the swells and trade winds of the Indian Ocean. As Madagascar is immensely larger than the other islands and is blessed with countless capes and reefs, there is the potential to discover numerous incredible spots - something I couldn't stop thinking about!
Off to Madagascar!
The idea to visit Madagascar came up when I was looking for a remote paradisiacal place where I could windsurf, wingfoil and SUP every day - with warm water and a beautiful backdrop to photograph. A place to immerse myself in the culture with constant wind and swell for daily training - but above all, uncrowded. Madagascar had been on my wish list for a long time and now, looking back, I can only say that my expectations were more than fulfilled here!
I was able to win Chiara Socin as a colleague. I didn't know her personally before, but she is also part of the Duotone team and a super talented photographer. As I had hoped, she didn't hesitate for a second! After a bit of research, it was clear that the most consistent spot for wind and waves in Madagascar was the so-called Emerald Lake This 12 kilometre long and three kilometre wide lagoon in the north of the island combines so many shades of green, turquoise and blue that it is hard to imagine. When we arrived in Diego Suarez, we saw the traditional Malagasy fishing boats with their beautiful sails sailing along the coast. However, these boats are not only used for fishing, they are the main means of transport for goods and also for tourist excursions. We also boarded the boat to reach our destination of Babaomby. On the boat, we were immediately handed warm rain jackets - in calm seas and 27 degrees. We soon realised why this made sense. At the beginning, we were still travelling against the wind with a little engine assistance. But when we reached the opening of the bay of Diego Suarez, the wind picked up. It was blowing at 35 knots and the crew didn't hesitate for long before setting sail. What can I say - Chiara and I got to know each other better on this trip, because a crossing like this definitely brings us closer together. Whales greeted us at the entrance to the lagoon! Could it get any better? Finally, we crossed the long lagoon of the Emerald Sea and reached our destination of Babaomby, surrounded by islets, shallows and reefs. We both couldn't help but grin at the sight - we had reached paradise!
Wind quota: 98 per cent!
Wind statistics don't lie - Babaomby is one of the windiest spots in the world! According to the statistics, it blows here at over 20 knots on 98 per cent of all days during the wind season between April and the end of November. During the windiest months of July and August, the average wind speed is around 30 knots and it blows practically from sunrise to sunset (and sometimes even at night). Accordingly, the windswell hitting the reefs delivers one surfable wave after another! Temperatures during the day are usually around 30 degrees Celsius, but thanks to the wind it doesn't feel hot. The nights are cool and perfect for a comfortable night's sleep. The water temperature is between 26 and 28 degrees Celsius. Due to the geography of the Emerald Sea - a wide lagoon surrounded by dunes and mangrove landscapes as well as reefs, islets and channels - both wind and waves have their own dynamics with changes of direction and small jets that make the spot even more interesting. Within a few kilometres you can find ramps for jumps in both directions, beautiful wave riding, windswells for downwinders or flat water slopes for manoeuvres and freestyle.
Babaomby is a spectacle
But the surroundings are also breathtaking! The variety of landscapes and colours in the Emerald Sea is unparalleled. Rivers, mangrove and baobab forests, dune beaches, sandy islands, forested islets, crystal-clear water and endless beaches - kitsch can be so beautiful. On land, lemurs watch you with their big eyes while in the water turtles pop up to greet you or humpback whales impress you with their leaps beyond the reef. Babaomby is a spectacle.
Babaomby - a place for many sports
The Emerald Sea is not just a wind machine, but also offers conditions for all kinds of water sports. Chiara liked wingfoiling on flat water more and I was more interested in windsurfing in the waves - we could both do everything here and always found what we wanted! Here is a brief overview of some of the spots outside the flat water lagoon:
Toreky Island - the jumping paradise!
This rocky island, guarded by seabirds, is about seven minutes from the lodge. Around it, a reef provides waves even at low tide - every day they were one to two metres high! We loved this spot as it always seems to work! It's a pretty safe and super fun spot, with steep ramps, the wind here blows sideonshore from the right. The waves break right next to the island while everything around it is flat - perfect for picking up speed and going full throttle on the ramp.
Suarez Island - waves and whales!
Suarez Island with its beautiful white sand lies in the outer part of the lagoon. Local sailing boats and day trippers gather on its shores to enjoy the day and savour freshly caught fish. The colours in this small corner of the planet are truly unique. The reef in front is considered the best spot for surfing in the area. Sometimes local kiters and windsurfers from other areas come here, but generally there are hardly any people. The wind comes side- to sideonshore from the right. This wave was one of the reasons I wanted to go to Babaomby - to train for the Aloha Classic on Maui. And indeed, I found some similarities! There are super fun days with waves that open up for multiple turns!
Madagascar/Babaomby - Travel tips
Journey
The long journey is the only point of criticism. You fly to the capital of Madagascar, Antananarivo, and then take a domestic flight to Diego Suarez. The final transfer by boat to Babaomby is best booked via the Lodge.
Living
The Babaomby Island Lodge is undoubtedly the ideal place on the Emerald Sea. This charming eco-lodge in paradise is a dream come true for any water sports enthusiast, because it was designed by one! When Nicolas Martin first visited Madagascar for windsurfing, he recognised the potential. He built his beautiful lodge right on the spot, right in front of the best wave in the windiest area of the country, so that he could reach it and return from the reef in one go! It doesn't get any better than that!
Country & People
Madagascar is poor, but I generally experienced a relaxed and friendly atmosphere in Diego Suarez and elsewhere. The Malagasy people are cheerful and lively. They wear a smile that lights up their faces and are adorned with the most beautiful clothes. The rich and diverse Malagasy culture, traditions, cuisine, dance, specialities and aesthetics are the result of a unique and perfect blend of Asian, African, Arabic, Indian and European influences.
Although Madagascar is only 400 kilometres from Africa, it was first colonised by Indonesian seafarers who came from a distance of more than 5000 kilometres! This is where some of the characteristics, customs, language and certain animals, such as the zebu, which is ubiquitous on the island, come from. Later, people from Nigeria and Cameroon also arrived. Various Malagasy kingdoms succeeded each other until Madagascar became a French colony in 1890. In 1960, Madagascar regained its independence and established itself as a republic.
Madagascar was once part of the supercontinent Gondwana. Around 165 million years ago, Africa separated from this continent, creating the Madagascan west coast. Then, 65 million years ago, Madagascar separated from the Indian subcontinent and has been completely isolated ever since. The evolution of species on the island took a different course than on other continents. Madagascar has a rich and diverse endemic fauna and flora with unique animals such as the lemurs, which make it a "different world" from a biological point of view.
Surf school & hire
The surf school in Babaomby has equipment for hire, but it is always a good idea to enquire in advance about what is available. The location is ideal and safe for practising, the instructors are experienced and there is even a jet ski.
Good to know
You should bring:
- Sunscreen
- Insect repellent
- Shorty or a thin neo
- A windbreaker, because it can get chilly in the evening
