Spot Guide Turkey: Alaçatı - Freeride paradise in transition

Almut Otto's look back

"And here is our beach villa", Kübra Yüksel from the Biblos Resort in Alaçatı opens the door to what is probably the most expensive hotel arrangement I have ever stayed in. A weekend in this dreamlike accommodation currently costs a whopping €17,000. For this, it offers a huge terrace with sea views, a pool, a jacuzzi, a koi pool, a fireplace, a wine cellar, a fully equipped kitchen, space for a family including their own staff bungalows and many more amenities on almost 580 m2. The only time you can't book the villa is when the hotel manager is there in person, as he has had it built especially for himself in the most beautiful spot on the beach.

From a surfer's paradise Alaçatı to the party hot spot

My gaze wanders over the fine sandy beach, the shallow lagoon towards the fairway for the luxury yachts and over to the still unspoilt shore on the other side. Suddenly I find myself back in 1990 - this was exactly where my VW bus was parked for the first time, wasn't it? I can still feel the dried grass of the wild pitch under my feet and can smell the brackish water again, carried by the wind from the north. My custom-made Surfline Munich lies in front of me. It's a computerised Styrodur board modelled on the F2 Sunset Slalom and adapted to my weight class. My hands are rough with calluses from all the surfing. But I don't really care. Because I'm mighty proud: I've just done my first glided power jibe. It has finally clicked. The constant wind, the shallow and mirror-smooth water made it easy for me.

No wonder the first surf centre was built here just a few years later. There is now not an inch of beach left without a surf school, a hotel or a restaurant. Apart from the fact that the once tiny fishing harbour has now been transformed into a Venice-style lagoon town. The former surfer's paradise has been supplemented by a hip party mile for the rich and famous. They meet either in the Veranda Alaçatı bar or the Cherry on Top discotheque. This is the place to be if you have a reservation and drive up in a Porsche or Lamborghini. A good night's sleep? Not a chance! It's a good thing that the Meltem - the "i" in the Turkish word for "breeze" was added by the Greeks - doesn't really start blasting until midday. Despite all the criticism of the many new buildings: Most of them are stylishly integrated into the landscape.

Pırlanta Plaj, on the other hand, has hardly changed

I used to spend a lot more time at Çeşme's Pırlanta Plaj than in Alaçatı. It goes without saying that I also had to do a spot check here. The beach used to be a nature reserve and, due to its proximity to Greece, was considered a zone under military surveillance. But we surfers were allowed to build our wind-protected fortresses directly on the brilliantly sparkling sand (pırlanta = brilliant). With the onshore wind coming diagonally from the right, I had my very first small wave experience here. And, incidentally, I was able to enjoy the sea among turtles that are hundreds of years old. As we pass the once tranquil village of Çiftlikköy today in 2023, with its wide streets, many buildings and hotel castles, I start to worry: Is the bay still what it used to be: an idyllic little natural paradise?

To my surprise: for a difference of almost three decades, the beach has hardly changed. Of course, there is now more beach life here too. You can hire sunbeds and have a coffee. But only the hinterland and the western bay are built on. Okay, the beach is now closed to cars - that makes sense. And officially, only kitesurfers are allowed out here. So we are approached as soon as we set up our wings. But hey: Winging is still so new, there can't be a ban yet. Besides, we are in Turkey. They like to turn a bureaucratic blind eye here.

Incidentally, one thing has not changed here over the years, much to my delight: Turkish hospitality. Everywhere people say from the heart: "Hoş geldiniz!" (expression of gratitude, admiration and joy towards another, literally: "What God has willed has happened.") and that is exactly what you can really feel: "Hoş bulduk!" - "We feel pleasantly received!"

Thomas Pfannkuch - The first time

Mirror-smooth water, plenty of wind and a level of hospitality rarely found anywhere else in the world are the hallmarks of the windsurfing and wingfoil spot in Alaçatı, Turkey. In summer, the Meltemi blows in the U-shaped bay on the Çeşme peninsula with a wind probability of up to 70 per cent. But you can surf here all year round, we learn from the locals. Reason enough to take a closer look at the spot.

"Foiling makes me feel like Aladdin on his carpet," enthuses Abdurrahim "Apo" Korkmaz about the silent flight across the sea. Apo is a Turkish surf pro and water sports instructor at the ASPC club in Alaçatı. Our gaze wanders over the Alaçatı Körfezi, the U-shaped gulf of the Turkish wind paradise. The traditional Çay in the club's beach café is a great place to sit and reflect. But we still have a lot planned and tell Apo about our research plans on site.

He switches from 1001 nights to reality in a flash. He talks about the special features of the spot, explains the local jet effect, tells us about the 500-metre-wide standing area and raves about the rare swell that occurs here in spring and autumn when the wind blows from the south. And: Apo introduces us to Berke Iskit, who arrives at the beach after a short phone call from Alaçatı, five kilometres away. Berke runs a stylish little boutique hotel in the old town with his mother. He is also a mountain bike guide. As a result, he knows the region like no other - ideal for us to get an overview of the bay and get to know the country and its people in a relaxed way.

Discovery tours by bike and SUP

On comfortable e-MTBs, we first ride up a hill in the centre of Alaçatı, enjoying the view of the lovingly restored boho-style old town, which is a listed building, the photogenic mills of Alaçatı and the surrounding countryside with its olive groves. Down in the town, it is bustling and full of life - especially in the evenings - while up here it is quiet and deserted. We recognise Surf Bay in the distance. Then we head out into the countryside. Berke leads us along easy trails and dusty gravel paths to our destination: Delikli Koy, a pebble beach at the foot of white rock formations. It is known for its rocky underwater world, which is perfect for snorkelling. So it's definitely worth packing your swimming gear. After a refreshment at the beach kiosk, it's time to continue. Berke knows the best trails for every skill level and effortlessly shows us his breathtaking stunts in between. So we have fun, culinary delights and sightseeing all in one.

The latter can also be done at the spot with a SUP board. We take advantage of a windless day to discover the north of the bay. Here lies the man-made, fantastically beautiful marina of Alaçatı. It was modelled on the French lagoon town of Port Grimaud and designed by architect François Spoerry. Paddling along, we marvel at the noble yachts moored directly to the owners' estates. You rarely get this close to the luxury that seems so natural. The directly adjacent harbour also offers bars, cafés and restaurants for external visitors. The wind picks up and is now blowing southwards - thanks to it, we return to the harbour at turbo speed and finally get on the foil.

Wingfoiling on the speed piste and in the waves

"Watch out: if you see a dark spot on the shore and you're not foiling, be careful, it could be a shallow area or a seaweed carpet," warns Serkan Öztürk. During our research (June 2023), he is the station manager of the ION Club, where our equipment is located and whose future in 2024 is unfortunately still uncertain. We are enjoying the rare comfort of being able to go straight from bed to board, as there are a few simply furnished rooms at the station, one of which we are currently staying in after spending the first few days of our stay at the Design Plus Seya Beach Hotel, which is within walking distance of the surfing stations, relaxing and enjoying the culinary delights.

When foiling, we try our best not to hit any shallows, as we want our carbon wings to last even longer. In front of us lies a huge speed paradise that offers plenty of space to the north, but loses wind power towards the south. The opposite bank invites us to take a short break. And those who show up can concentrate on manoeuvre training to leeward as a reward on the way back. The only thing to watch out for is the shipping traffic in the fairway and the other surfers and foilers. The wind blows quite constantly in the centre of the bay - it could hardly be more ideal.

We take one day to explore the Pirlanta Plaj beach near Çeşme. It is known for its waves, which can be up to 1.50 metres high, and is now actually reserved for kiters. We are lucky and have the whole spot to ourselves. When the first kiters turn up, we set off. After all, sightseeing and culinary delights are still on the agenda in Çeşme. Then there are the hot springs of Ilica, which we skip this time. Instead, we set off in our hire car on the 90-minute journey to Ephesus, the world's largest ancient ruined city. We could have done so much more, but a week in Alaçatı is simply too short for all the activities. "Görüşürüz!" we say goodbye. "We'll see you again!" - and with more time in our luggage.

Alaçatı - The spot

Windsurfers or wingfoilers start on the west side of the bay of Alaçatı, which is around two square kilometres in size. The wind blows sideshore from the left and comes over the land from the north. Lateral mountains create a jet effect and increase the prevailing Meltemi wind here by up to six knots. Unfortunately, buildings on land in the shore area provide wind barriers. The wind is most constant in July and August - but then the spot is usually quite full. If you can, come outside the holiday season - after all, it usually blows constantly from the end of May until October. According to the locals, the best time to visit is between June and September. Like everywhere else, the Meltemi builds up during the day and is at its strongest in the late afternoon.

Special feature: When the wind called "Lodos" blows from the south, beautiful swell waves come into the bay. If you are not put off by low temperatures, you can be out on the water around 50 per cent of the time from October to April. The wind averages 15 to 25 knots and can sometimes exceed 30 knots, especially in autumn, spring and winter.

Good to know: While windsurfers and wingfoilers share the spot, the kitesurfers are at the south-eastern end of the bay - so nobody gets in each other's way.

Precinct information Alaçatı

Journey

Numerous airlines, including SunExpress, fly to Izmir from many German airports during the summer months. Flight time: 2:15 to 3:00 hours.

Transfer: Car hire companies at the terminal (including Europcar and Sixt) are open around the clock. The motorway is subject to tolls - an electronic payment system is usually installed in the hire car. Almost all surf tour operators have Alaçatı in their programme and also organise transfers to the accommodation.

Provider

Surf & Action Company : surf-action.com/
Sun and Fun sports holidays: sunandfun.com/

Surf stations

The hotels and surf schools are all located on the western shore. The largest centres are the Alaçatı Surf Paradise Club - ASPC for short - and Myga Surf City. The southernmost centre, the ION Club Alaçatı, was closed at the end of 2023. The previous operator plans to open a new surf centre there in 2024 under a different name. The motto at this centre is: from bed to board. There are some simply furnished rooms right next to the station. An opulent breakfast was served at the chic Kairaba Beach Resort. Other local centres are more geared towards Turkish guests.

ASPC - Alaçatı Surf Paradise Club

The ASPC is the largest water sports centre in Turkey with over 120 windsurfing boards, 20 wingfoil boards and 250 windsurfing sails. 20 instructors look after the guests. In addition to a restaurant, a beach café and two shops, ASPC also has a crossfit area, a basketball court and regular yoga classes. aspcsurf.com

Myga Surf City

Surf centre, which is primarily aimed at Turkish guests, but also offers English-speaking instructors. Alaçatımygasorfokulu.com

Wind, weather and neoprene tips

Pleasant summer temperatures prevail in Alaçatı from the beginning of June to the end of September. There is hardly any rainfall. The maximum daytime temperatures in June and September are between 25 and 30 °C, with night-time temperatures around 20 °C. In July and August, the thermometer rises to (sometimes well) above 30 °C during the day and does not drop below 20 °C at night. The water attracts swimmers from June with 20 °C, and in July and August it even warms up to over 25 °C. A shorty or 3/2 neo is therefore the right choice, but sometimes you can also surf or foil in shorts and lycra.

Accommodation

From simple guesthouses to luxury hotels, Alaçatı offers the right accommodation for every budget and preference. Prices start at around €100 per night in the high season.

Design Plus Seya Beach Hotel

The modern 5-star Design Plus Seya Beach hotel is located directly by the sea and awaits guests with its own beach and lounge terrace. The elegant hotel complex has a total of 189 rooms, an outdoor pool, a fitness centre and a Turkish bath. The spacious bar with outdoor area offers a wonderful view of the bay. The surfing centres are around five minutes' walk from the hotel.

Bookable via FTI, among others: fti.com/travel-offers/hotel/turkey/alacati_cesme/design_plus_seya_beach.html

Sakin Ev Boutique Hotel

The family-run boutique hotel Sakin Ev is located in a traditional stone house just a two-minute walk from the centre of Alaçatı. Each of the ten rooms (two-, three- or four-bed rooms) is lovingly and individually furnished. You can feel the love of art and detail in every room. The lounge and the garden invite you to linger or even for a workation. sakinev.com

Biblos Resort Alaçatı

The exclusive 5-star resort Biblos is located directly on the surf beach. Guests can enjoy pure relaxation and maximum indulgence in stylish surroundings. The luxurious facilities in the middle of a green oasis make every guest feel like a VIP - especially in the Laguna rooms with private pool or the extravagant Beach Houses with a direct view of the surf spot. biblosresorts.com

Alternative programme

Alaçatı is the perfect starting point for exploring the Çesme Peninsula and beyond - on foot, by public transport, e-bike or hire car. We present the best options for windless or relaxing days:

Bazaar in Alaçatı

Every Saturday, the large bazaar in Alaçatı invites you to stroll and shop. In addition to a large and fresh selection of fruit and vegetables, countless stalls at the market sell textiles, shoes, fabrics, blankets, accessories, gifts and beach equipment. Our tip: Buy locally grown produce from the farmers. visitalacati.com

(E-)Bike tour in and around Alaçatı

Explore the old town of Alaçatı or the surrounding area by bike: Berke from Bikehouse Alaçatı knows the most beautiful places, the best trails and the most secluded bays. With state-of-the-art e-bikes, you can set off from the town centre on an individual tour - tailored to your wishes and ability. bikehousealacati.com

Explore the lively old town of Alaçatı

The narrow streets of Alaçatı are bustling in the evening. Countless restaurants and bars invite you to enjoy local specialities. The old town is extremely lively and very crowded, especially at the weekend.

Excursion to the harbour town of Çeşme

Çesme is the tourist centre of the peninsula. The large harbour is particularly worth seeing. Visitors will find numerous restaurants serving fresh fish along the harbour promenade. The town centre is dominated by shops selling regional products and souvenirs. The best way to get to Çesme is by dolmus, which are local minibuses that connect the villages. The journey takes around 30 minutes and costs around two euros.

Ancient ruins of Ephesus

Around 90 minutes from Alaçatı, you can immerse yourself in the ancient world in Ephesus: The well-preserved Celsus Library, the imposing amphitheatre and one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the ruins of the Temple of Artemis, are just some of the highlights. Impressive ruined streets, magnificent mosaics and other archaeological treasures can be explored on the extensive site. If you have a hire car, Ephesus and the Meryemana Evi (House of the Mother of God) are a must-see.

Party

Alaçatı Beach is also the right location for parties and lively evenings. Several indoor and outdoor clubs offer the right music for every taste. That's why the volume around the hotels is correspondingly high. If you are sensitive to noise, you should book a hotel away from the hustle and bustle.