Tarifa is steeped in history - you realise this with every step you take in the winding alleyways of the old town. Over 4,000 years ago, when the Phoenicians began to build the largest trading network in the Mediterranean to date, the seafarers slowly worked their way from present-day Syria and Lebanon along the entire North African coast to what is now Morocco. They probably crossed from Morocco to Spain around 3000 years ago and established a city at the southernmost point of Europe, from where they continued their trade routes along the Spanish coast.
The history of today's Tarifa began 1300 years ago. The Berber Tarif abu Zura crossed over to the Iberian Peninsula with 500 men and built a town named after him. In 960, the Arab fortress of Tarifa was completed to control the Strait of Gibraltar. It was an important bulwark against Vikings and pirates, who were already raiding the region and were always feared. The following centuries were characterised by great battles on land and at sea and ultimately it was the discovery of the New World that gave the port of Tarifa a new strategic importance. Many young sailors and soldiers were recruited from the city and its surroundings, merchant ships arrived with exotic goods and warships left the city with new destinations. Tarifa was a crossroads, a place that connected Africa and Europe. With the end of colonisation, Tarifa slowly fell asleep and things went downhill. For a long time, fishing was the town's only source of income. While tourism was awakening elsewhere in Spain, "Die Zeit" summarised Tarifa's "problem" quite accurately in 1969:
The wind blows the tourists away.
If windsurfing had not seen the light of day two years earlier, Tarifa would probably have sunk into insignificance for good. Today, Tarifa is the capital. The capital of windsurfing and this is due to its strategically favourable location - which brings us full circle. The Strait of Gibraltar is simply a damn windy place and the town is fully geared towards windsurfers - apart from Haiku on Maui, there is hardly a town where the density of surf bars and shops is greater than here.
However, its location on the Strait of Gibraltar guarantees good ventilation on the one hand, but is also a major problem on the other. Almost every day, refugees from Africa try to cross the 14 kilometres between Morocco and Spain in search of a (new) future. People drown almost every week. While the mighty defence towers of Tarifa once stood for "Fortress Europe", today it is SIVE: SIVE stands for the ultra-modern surveillance system with radar, infrared and cameras, which is designed to detect refugee boats at sea. Of course, sealing off the sea does not solve the actual problem, but merely shifts it: towards the Canary Islands or to even smaller rubber boats, which are very difficult to detect by radar and are regularly rescued in the harbour of Tarifa.
Surfing in Tarifa is therefore always a bit ambivalent, because when the Levante blows hard in your face while you let your gaze wander from the Arab fortress walls of Tarifa over the offshore Isla de las Palomas and look forward to the upcoming surfing day at one of the many spots on the coast, there are always dramas taking place a few kilometres further out.
As a windsurfer, you are always welcome in Tarifa, the locals just call us the "locos por el viento" - "those crazy about the wind" and show leniency wherever they can. Whether it's because you're picked up by the police while illegally climbing towers to take panoramic photos for this spot guide or surfing on closed beaches and pitching your tent in the wrong place.
Tarifa continues to make history - from the stormy Levante to the surfing flair in the bars of the historic old town.
General information:
Journey:Tarifa is a great place for camping holidays. Journey (around 2500 kilometres from Cologne) either via the French Mediterranean coast or along the Atlantic. Toll costs from 120 euros, depending on the car. If you have time, there are various surf spots to stop off at en route.
Flights: Cheap flights (from 50 euros) in the low season to Malaga (150 km), Gibraltar (45 km) or Jerez de la Frontera (120 km). Car hire is inexpensive in southern Spain (sometimes less than 10 euros/day). It is always worth booking in advance when on holiday.
Wind, weather & neoprene:Tarifa is a year-round destination. Even in winter the temperatures are bearable (February: water 16 degrees, air 15 degrees), although it does rain more often. The summer months are dry, but bearable with 24 degree water and 28 degree air, a shorty in your luggage is enough. In summer, the easterly wind Levante blows very reliably (60 to 80 per cent over 4 Bft.), which often flattens the waves. The Levante accelerates incredibly off Tarifa and along the Atlantic spots and often reaches over 30 knots, even if the services only forecast a few knots of wind. Small sails are a must in your luggage! From October to April, the wind frequency is somewhat lower overall (40 to 50 per cent above 4 Bft.), but the westerly wind Poniente becomes more frequent, which can bring big waves. A warm wetsuit is then advisable.
Security:For the Campo de Futbol (6) to Dos Mares (9) section of the beach, there is now a rescue service for all those coming up. If you still have problems turning up and respect the offshore wind, you can buy a rescue card for 50 euros, which covers three rescues by boat. Without a card, you pay 100 euros per rescue.
Surf centre & rental:
- Club Mistral (Fanatic/North): Valdevaqueros and at the Hotel Hurricane: www.club-mistral.com
- Dos Mares (JP/NeilPryde): www.escueladosmares.com
- Spinout Valdevaqueros (Tabou/Gaastra): www.tarifaspinout.com
- Bolonia Windsurf Centre (Naish): www.boloniawindsurfcenter.com
Shops & sail repair:Here is just a selection, compare prices: Bull Sails (C.Braille), Dock 11 (C. del Mar del Norte), Sailboards Tarifa (C. de San Sebastian), Big Fish and Tarifa Pirates (both C. Batalla del Salado), Ozu (on the N-340 at Autocamp Rio Jara) & more...
Accommodation:Countless apartments, hotels & rooms in all price ranges. You should only pre-book in July/August.
Camping:Wild camping is officially prohibited, but is often tolerated for motorhomes. In the low season, the Guardia Civil often comes by and points out free pitches on the campsites. The most popular campsites among windsurfers are Camping Torre de la Pena 1 ( www.campingtp.com ) and Las Dunas ( www.campingjdunas.com ) at the northern end of the bay. But also the places Rio Jara ( www.campingriojara.com ), Punta Paloma ( www.campingpaloma.com ), Tarifa ( www.campingtarifa.es ), and Valdevaqueros ( www.campingvaldevaqueros.com ) offer a good standard and are affordable with prices starting at 5 euros per person per night. Bungalows are also often offered on the campsites.
Tour operator:Club Mistral: www.club-mistral.com
Food, bars & nightlife:A laid-back beach atmosphere, hippies who have stuck around and clubs, restaurants and bars galore - Tarifa has it all. The price level corresponds to that of German cities - not cheap, not too expensive.Local tips: Tapas at El Frances, Lola or Los Mellis. You shouldn't miss out on La Tribou, where you can watch surf videos and have a good drink. If you want to party until the early hours of the morning, head to the clubs "La Ruina", "Mombassa" or "Cafe del Mar".
Windsurfing in Tarifa - the best spots
1) Palmones
A spot with an incredible backdrop. You can surf back and forth between the huge tankers in the chop, rip on the small lagoon or relax and play with the small waves over the sandbank. The spot is ideal when the Levante gets too strong in Tarifa or the Poniente is too weak, as it climbs over the mountains here from Tarifa and accelerates as it falls. In addition, there is usually bright sunshine here when the clouds in front of the mountains above Tarifa are clinging to the Poniente. From Tarifa, follow the N340/ A7 towards Gibraltar. Shortly after Algeciras, you will see the sign for Palmones.
2) Getares
An alternative spot if the Levante in Tarifa becomes unrideable, there are usually four wind forces less here. Before Algeciras, turn off towards Punta del Carnero. Levante blows quite onshore onto a beautiful sandy beach where you can park. The entrance is on the left at "Los Delphines". From a wind force of five, there are moderate waves to play in on the sandbank, and if the wind blows a little more from the north-east, you can also jump well. Baywatch, showers and a bar are available.
3) La Caleta
The secluded sandy beach with the ruins is a real feast for the eyes. You drive past the harbour of Tarifa on the left along the water until you come to a dead end about 70 metres from the sea. You can park here, but you will have to carry your equipment to the beach. Like Playa Chica, this spot works even with a weak Levante. You have to be a little careful with the reefs in front (shoes are recommended), but then you will find easy-to-surf flat water and small chop with a constant wind from the left.
4) Playa Chica
Playa Chica is the spot with the strongest Levante and Poniente. It is recommended if the wind is too weak at the other spots. At Levante, you surf in front of the pier that leads out onto the Isla de las Palomas. You can ride 200 metres straight ahead before having to jibe in front of the cliffs. It is impossible to drift off, but the breakwater remains a very rocky exit, so it is more suitable for experienced surfers. At Poniente, a nice wave can turn around the island, but the wind is then gusty, the current strong and the danger of drifting off should not be underestimated. Approach: Pass the harbour on the right until you are in front of the pier. The small beach to the left of the pier is Playa Chica. Surfing is officially prohibited, but tolerated in the low season.
5) Balneario
Unfortunately, windsurfing is prohibited here in July and August, but in the low season the beach offers a fantastic (but also quickly overcrowded) arena. As at Playa Chica, the wind is always strongest here. Levante offers great flat water conditions and the small waves that run around the island and break on the sandbanks off the coast are perfect for jumping. Add a swell from the west and you have brilliant side-off conditions. You should never surf alone here, the offshore wind will drive you mercilessly out to sea. The wave breaks over the offshore sandbanks and the shorebreak remains small. After Balneario, we pass the harbour on the right and then head towards the jetty. Balneario stretches out to the right. Local tip: Live music at Bienestar, right on the beach!
6) Campo de Footbol
Windsurfing is also prohibited at the stadium in July and August. Here at Levante, you can windsurf parallel to the beach, a dream for speed surfers and freestylers. Here, too, the Levante blows stronger than at the more northerly spots, but is gusty. Poniente offers moderate wave conditions, the waves break on the gently sloping beach far out, but quite disorganised. The stadium can be seen from afar and is therefore easy to find.
7) Rio Jara
Windsurfing is prohibited in July and August. The river flows into the sea between the football stadium and Los Lances. The best place to surf is from Los Lances to the lagoon, as there is no direct access. You can find great wave conditions in the estuary at Poniente. However, the lagoon that forms here at high tide is particularly recommended. A paradise for freestylers at Poniente, unfortunately gusty at Levante.
8) Los Lances
From Tarifa, take the N 340 towards Cadiz, pass the petrol station and then cross the bridge over the Rio Jara, then take the first left and you're at the spot. Björn Dunkerbeck set a speed record here in 1995. Unfortunately, some buildings have been built and the wind is no longer as constant as it used to be. However, the water still drops very quickly, so that you can really go long ironing right on the beach. You can also spend the night here during the low season. At Poniente, the spot is not recommended as the waves break directly onto the beach in a disorganised manner. Here, too, windsurfing is only permitted to a limited extent in July and August. Local tip: After-work beer in the Aqua Bar right on the beach!
9) Dos Mares
Hotel Dos Mares is the first spot to the north where windsurfing is permitted all year round. Unfortunately, the Levante is very gusty here. Poniente brings quite organised and mostly moderate waves, big waves are usually only found here in winter. No hidden dangers, so it's also a tip for wave beginners. From Tarifa, take the N340 northwards to Dos Mares. You can also reach the hotel quickly from the northernmost car park in Los Lances.
10) Arte Vida
How to get there: Simply turn off the N340 at the next junction heading north after the signposted Dos Mares and you will arrive directly at the spot. The Arte Vida is a nice restaurant and hotel with internet. A large car park with a shady grove and barbecue facilities as well as the beautiful beach invite you to relax. The spot is not recommended for Levante, as the wind is very gusty over the raised shore. Arte Vida really comes into its own at Poniente: shoals in front of it sort out the waves, which break powerfully and require wave experience. The shallows to the right of the entrance should be treated with caution, especially at low tide, as they can sometimes be exposed in the wave troughs. Poniente blows diagonally onshore from the right and is slightly stronger here. Also great for surfing!
11) Hurricane
The Hotel Hurricane is signposted following the N340 north of Dos Mares. The spot in front of the hotel is a wonderful wave spot for Poniente. The waves sort themselves out even better here than in front of Arte Vida and you can almost rip with sideshore conditions from the right in north-westerly directions. However, the rock slabs accumulate from Arte Vida to Torre de la Penna. Find out about tide levels and shallows, low tide is best! The spot at Levante is not so suitable - the wind comes offshore over the high shore and only develops its power far out.
12) Torre de la Pena
The campsite of the same name can also be found north of Dos Mares and Hurricane on the N340. There are parking facilities for day guests here. At Poniente, the campsite offers direct access to the wave action with sideshore conditions. Quite challenging in strong Poniente - shore break, a partly rocky entrance and the many reef slabs harbour dangers at low tide. Find out about tides and local shallows here too. With a moderate poniente, the spot is suitable for everyone and offers almost sideshore conditions. Torre de la Penna is also not an outstanding Levante spot, but not as gusty as Hurricane and Arte Vida.
13) Valdevaqueros
You'll find the spot to the north of Torre de la Pena, it goes through an iron gate to the car park, which is very cheap even in the high season, but quickly overcrowded. The spot offers moderate freeride and freestyle conditions at Poniente, as the waves are somewhat covered by Punta Palomas. The wind is also not quite as strong as at Hotel Hurricane. At Levante, it's still blowing side-offshore at the spot, so it's a bit gusty. Local tip: a nightcap in the Tumbao bar!
14) Spin Out
In front of the Spin Out surf station, Poniente offers similar conditions to Valdevaqueros. The Levante blows more consistently here and the dune and Punta Palomas close off the bay so that drifting is unlikely. There are very few car parks here. You can also reach the spot via the N340 by turning off to the Spin Out Centre about 10 kilometres north of Tarifa, directly behind Hurricane and Valdevaqueros.
15) Casa de Porros
My absolute favourite of the spots so far. It works incredibly well, especially at Levante. The wind comes exactly sideshore and you can surf safely in front of the big dune and Punta Palomas. It offers the most consistent Levante and if you surf out to Punta Palomas, you'll find wonderful waves for jumping and small wave rides. The spot also works very well at Poniente, when the wind even picks up locally. Over 100 metres of the finest white sandy beach stretches down to the water, which then rises into the picturesque dune on the right. How to get there: You can reach the spot by turning off the N340 onto the 222 towards Punta Palomas shortly after the spin-out. After a few hundred metres, a small dirt road leads down to the spot on the right. There is plenty of space to park at the Casa de Porros (also known as the pig meadow).
16) Bolonia
Bolonia is a paradise with a strong Levante. The journey is a little longer, but well worth it. Follow the N340 northwards until the exit to Bolonia is signposted. Coming from the ridge, turn left onto the main road and follow it to the end. The spot develops wonderful bump & jump conditions downwind. If you cross 200 metres to windward, you will find great freestyle conditions, as exposed reef slabs - especially at low tide - ensure 1a flat water. At no other spot does the Levante blow so consistently and is still easy to ride even when the tide is overhooked in Tarifa. Bolonia is also home to Baelo Claudia, the best-preserved Roman harbour in Spain. Always worth a visit on windless days or after a good session!
17) Canos de Meca
When the Levante blows very strongly over several days, a moderate sideonshore wave begins to build up over the reef, which is particularly suitable for jumping, but also for riding off. Also great in light Levante and west swell! At Poniente, on the other hand, the spot reveals its true quality: now it becomes a radical point break with wind from the right, brilliant for riding off. Be careful - the stones in the entry area have already clipped many a fin. Canos can be reached from Tarifa in around 40 minutes. Follow the N340 for about 35 kilometres in the direction of Cadiz, Canos de Meca is signposted. Local tip: Check the swell forecast on windless days. You can often go SUPing or surfing here!
18) Sancti Petri
The old, extinct fishing village is the freestyle Mecca on the Iberian Peninsula. Here you can spread out as much as you like, you rarely meet a few locals on the water. Sancti Petri is located 70 kilometres north of Tarifa. Take the N340 to Chiclana de la Frontera and then follow the signs. Before Sancti Petri is Nuovo Sancti Petri, this is the wrong place, you have to go to the old, extinct Sancti Petri. The huge lagoons in the hinterland converge with the Atlantic here, the narrow passage is at 90 degrees to Poniente and Levante - so you will find perfect flat water for practising tricks and manoeuvres on both sides, whatever the wind direction.