Tudo Bom, Tudo Bem!
Lisbon had impressed me so much on a short trip a year earlier that I came back a little later for a semester abroad. The "one night stand" turned into an affair that is about to develop into a long-term romance, as I have just extended my stay for another semester. In these times of bursting air miles accounts and budget airlines, Lisbon is only a stone's throw away for us.
In the case of Ryanair, after a luggage discussion, two calf cramps and a bruised buttock, I'm already on my approach to the Portuguese capital before I can even look for the thrombosis injection. And yet, away from the holiday season, you can find flights that cost less than the journey from Kiel to Hamburg. Despite the short distance, the spiralling approach is like immersing myself in a different culture and the history of a city whose sometimes wrinkled but cheerful façade has seen a lot.
The metropolis in the south-west of the Iberian Peninsula, right at the mouth of the River Tagus, has always been at the centre of Portuguese history, which has been just as up and down as Lisbon's streets. Of the many peoples who colonised Portugal over the years, the Moors left the deepest footprints: Their Arab traces can be found today in the names of the city's districts, such as "Al-fama", but also in the colourful tiles that make many façades so special. Portugal developed into a wealthy colonial power, particularly as a result of Henry the Navigator's voyages of discovery - with Lisbon as its centre and at times the largest trading port in the world.
The city has also become a cultural melting pot. Even when I stroll through the winding alleyways a few months later, I still discover new details and incredible buildings. Although the city was almost completely destroyed after the severe earthquake in 1755 and the subsequent tsunami, it was impressively rebuilt at great expense. The countless, oversized equestrian sculptures made of stone or bronze that stare down at me grimly throughout the city and the ornate houses, churches and archways make the homeland look architecturally old. They also reflect the pronounced national pride of the Portuguese: unlike the Americans, for example, the Portuguese don't put this directly on your nose - unless you lump the Portuguese together with the Spanish or Brazilians in the heat of the moment, then the fun usually stops and the facial expressions change to a grim "bronze statue".
Overall, the Portuguese are very friendly, open and happy to help. Even at university, the motto is "one for all, all for one", which saved my neck after one or two extended surfing sessions. Even today, in times of globalisation including Starbucks and McDonald's, the Portuguese hold on to their values. There are thousands of small "pastelaria's" where young and old drink coffee. Filter coffee or even "coffee to go" do not exist. There is always time for at least an espresso and the magic word against hecticness is "Calma, Calma". I am always greeted warmly with the classic short dialogue "Tudo Bom? - Tudo Bem!". With fair prices, people are happy to spend their money, chat on every corner and shop in the small markets. As a result, there is a pleasant hustle and bustle on the streets, but no stressful running and jostling.
Before I arrived, I thought that I would mainly go surfing, especially in winter, and that my windsurfing gear might get a bit dusty - but that turned out to be a fallacy. However, lugging it up to the 5th floor before and after each session is an ordeal. My house, like most houses in Lisbon, has no basement.
Portugal's long Atlantic coastline makes one or two bends, especially near Lisbon, which means there are many spots for different wind directions. In summer, the often very strong Nortada from the north-west leaves no leaf on the tree and in winter, low pressure systems with south to south-westerly winds ensure plenty of time on the water. The classic and best-known spot is Praia do Guincho, but it's worth having a few alternatives up your sleeve. In summer, you can avoid the many water sports enthusiasts and sometimes find much better conditions. Guincho can quickly become too windy and wavy for beginners and intermediates. However, the shallow water spots in the region offer sheltered alternatives. Together with my mate Leon Jamaer, I have extensively tested the best spots around Lisbon and hope that they will give you some inspiration for a trip to Portugal!
General information Portugal
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations: In the Lisbon area, as almost everywhere in Portugal, there are two prevailing wind situations that are suitable for windsurfing. Either the Nortada is blowing or there is a low-pressure weather situation. The Nortada is a constant wind from the north, which is usually accompanied by good weather. It is caused by an Azores high and a heat low over the Iberian Peninsula. The Nortada is at its most constant in summer and is often locally stronger, for example in Guincho. As a result, you can expect 50 to 60 per cent of the wind to be above four Beaufort (see chart above), and it often fires from all cylinders. A small sail is a must in your luggage. In September and October, the system often collapses before more lows move across the Atlantic in winter. The wind then blows from the south to west-north-west and is not as constant as the Nortada, and it often rains. In winter, the wind can be very unstable, regardless of the direction. The locals say that nothing helps then except to set off and see for yourself whether it suits you. In terms of temperature, you can look forward to an average of 24°C in August, which, in combination with a water temperature of 20°C, allows for a thin summer neo. In December, a 4/3 or 5/3 neo usually still works well. Temperatures average around 12°C in the air and 17°C in the water.
Waves & Tides:The tidal range in Portugal is not as gigantic as in Brittany or England, for example, but still makes the decisive difference at some spots. It is advisable to check the tide levels before getting into the car. The many good quality webcams are also very helpful ( www.surftotal.com/camaras-report ; www.beachcam.sapo.pt ), which are available at almost every spot. A glance at the internet is usually enough to get a rough idea of the conditions on site. During summer Nortada conditions, the wave heights are often moderate at one to two metres, but big swells often hit the coast between October and May. Forecasts at www.magicseaweed.com
Journey:The journey by van is long, around 2300 kilometres from Frankfurt (toll approx. 160 euros). Faster and often cheaper is travelling by plane, where you can sometimes get there for less than 100 euros. But: the baggage regulations can sometimes ruin the fun - Iberia charges a cheeky 150 euros per route and bag, Ryanair 100 euros (max. 20 kg!). Please be sure to check the airlines' baggage regulations! Car hire is available at very reasonable prices. It is definitely advisable to take out fully comprehensive insurance, as this also covers attempted break-ins.
Living & CampingThere are numerous campsites in Portugal. Wild camping is still tolerated in many places, at least in the low season. Please keep everything nice and clean so that it stays that way.
Campsites near the spot are:
Guincho:
- Orbitur Guincho ( http://de.orbitur.pt/campingplatz-orbitur-guincho )
Lagoa de Obidos:
- Orbitur Foz do Arelho ( http://de.orbitur.pt/campingplatz-orbitur-foz-do-arelho ) Parque de Campismo Municipal da Foz do Arelho (Tel. +351 262 978 683)
Costa de Caparica:
- Orbitur: http://de.orbitur.pt/campingplatz-orbitur-costa-de-caparica
- Costa Nova: www.campingcostanova.com/
- Camping Piedense: www.facebook.com/pages/parque-de-campismo-Piedense/116714911760891
Peniche:
- Parque de Campismo Municipal de Peniche ( www.cm-peniche.pt )
Ericeira:
- Ericeira Camping ( ericeiracamping.com )
Surf schools, hire & shops:While there are surf schools with hire equipment everywhere in Portugal, it is unfortunately virtually impossible to hire windsurfing equipment. Exceptions are:
- Lagoa de Albufeira: Meira Pro Centre ( www.meiraprocenter.com )
- Lagoa de Obidos: Escola de Vela da Lagoa ( www.escoladeveladalagoa.com )
Surf shops:
- Guincho: Guincho Wind Factory ( www.guincho-windfactory.com )
Downsides:We keep hearing about cars being broken into and wallets, mobile phones and cameras being stolen. The best defence: don't leave anything valuable in the car or hand in expensive items at the restaurant round the corner! Tip: Remove the sticker from the car hire company, this will make the car much less conspicuous.
Lisbon - the best windsurfing spots in the area
1) Lagoa de Óbidos
Portugal's largest lagoon is located 30 minutes north of Peniche and stretches inland from the Atlantic Ocean in a south-easterly direction. Here you will find a shallow water area, which is also very popular with kiters. The mountains inland strengthen the easterly wind (slightly gusty), but you can also have a lot of fun here in all other wind directions. Only at low tide do windsurfers lose out, as it often becomes too shallow. There are car parks on the north side in Foz do Arelho, on the south side at Praia do Bom Sucesso or at the windsurfing school on the eastern shore. In summer, you have to be considerate of bathers.
Peniche
An hour's drive north of Lisbon is Peniche with the Baleal peninsula, which juts out into the Atlantic like a horn. The peninsula has differently orientated bays that shine in both northeasterly and low pressure conditions and will make your waver's heart beat faster. If the wind dies down completely, there are plenty of world-class wave riding spots to explore, most notably the famous barrel of Supertubos.
2) Peniche - Bruno's Bar
In south-easterly to south-westerly winds, it is best to go out on the water at the northern end of Baleal Bay at "Bruno's Bar". The waves are usually smaller here compared to the centre of the bay, which makes it easier to get out. In southerly winds, experts looking for bigger breakers can cross further to windward. The wind on the shore is very gusty, and those who make it out are rewarded with clean down-the-line wave rides. Tip: Jibe out of the wave in good time to stay in the wind field. Nortada blows more consistently, usually stronger and comes diagonally onshore from the right. In addition to riding conditions, it also offers very good jumping conditions. The two cafés right on the beach are great places for families to sit and watch from the sofa or terrace.
3) Peniche - Baleal South
If the wind is a little more westerly, the southern end of the bay is a good alternative. Turn right at the last roundabout before Peniche, after a few metres there is a large car park on the right-hand side. The best place to rig up is right here and then set off on the 150 metre walk over the dunes. The waves are generally much smaller than at "Bruno's Bar", but here too the sideoff to slightly sideonshore wind blowing from the left can make it difficult to get out in the front area. If you like it completely offshore, you will of course also get your money's worth here with a south-westerly wind, but you will have to come to terms with the surfers, who are usually clearly in the majority. As with Bruno's Bar, a medium tide provides the most fun. At low tide, the conditions can also be very good, but the waves then become increasingly powerful and break close-out more often. In return, you have a little more run-up for jumping and less shorebreak compared to high tide. There are many hostels, hotels and flats in Baleal and Peniche.
4) Ericeira
Ericeira is located between Peniche and Lisbon. This beautiful and cosy coastal town was named Europe's first surfing reserve in 2011. And for good reason, as one perfect wave follows the next here. The wind is usually about two Beaufort lighter than in Guincho, making it a good alternative in hack. As the coast is rocky, it is particularly suitable forMatadouro for windsurfing. The car park on the beach is signposted and easy to find, and you can start from here. The spot only works at Nortada and can be gusty. At low tide, the waves break close to the rocks; the locals recommended that we only go out at medium to high tide. Depending on the size of the wave, a clean wave breaks upwind at the point or various peaks directly in front of the beach. If the down-the-line experience is not enough for you, you can walk the two kilometres or so toRibeira d'Ilhas and occasionally find even cleaner and longer waves. The locals warn against going straight into Ribeira: This is usually very material-intensive, as you would quickly end up on the rocks downwind of the bay. Ericeira is usually worth the trip. In summer, if the wind in Guincho is too strong, Ericeira usually works very well. In winter, it's a bit of a matter of luck. If there is little wind, you can go surfing here and then enjoy a Galao coffee and fresh fish in the harbour. Ribeira d'Ilhas is also a good place to sleep in your car, with a restaurant and café right on the beach, making it a family-friendly place.
5) Guincho
Guincho is by far the most famous spot in the region, not only because of its World Cup past, but also because it is by far the windiest. The Nortada doesn't just accelerate down the mountains in summer, even in winter you might not be able to hold the 3.7. When we surfed Guincho, it was either 15 or 45 knots, rarely anything in between. You can choose between the free car park in the south of the bay or in the north at the Bar do Guincho and the new wave centre built in 2013, where you can rig up sheltered from the wind and rinse off your equipment with fresh water (ask the locals beforehand, as showers and rigging space are actually only for club members). There is a charge for parking at the Bar do Guincho during the season, but the car is relatively safe here. The wind in Guincho usually blows diagonally onshore from a northerly direction. The warmer it is in summer, the more the wind shifts to the east. On days when there are sudden jumps in temperature, you should go ashore as quickly as possible, as the wind may die completely. The waves break in different parts of the long sandy bay depending on the tide. When the waves are bigger or when the water is low, they break further out on a sandbank, and at high tide they often crash directly onto the beach in a brutal shorebreak. Beware of the rocks in the centre of the bay; at high tide, rocks can also hide in the northern part of the bay. The big advantage of Guincho, apart from the constant strong wind, is that there is almost always some wave here. Even with mini swell, there are often usable ramps. On days with a big swell and a ticking east in the wind direction, a very good right-hand wave breaks at the northern end of the bay, provided the tide is low to medium. Just watch out for the rocks - get out in good time! Apart from expensive hotels, there are only a few places to stay overnight in Guincho. There is more choice towards Cascais. But there is a campsite close to the spot.
6) Costa da Caparica
After Costa da Caparica, you can enjoy a real San Francisco feeling as you cross the bridge to the south over the Tagus. The beach is around ten kilometres long and is interrupted by stone piers every hundred metres. In principle, you can choose the pier where the waves break best. At the northern end, the waves tend to be smaller, so you will often find nice flat water here, especially in summer. At the southern end of the Costa, the distances between the piers and the waves are somewhat larger. The Nortada blows side- to side-offshore everywhere, but also somewhat weaker than in Guincho. At low tide, the wind is more constant as you surf further out and are therefore exposed to less wind cover. In summer, the coastal section tends to score with moderate waves, while in the winter months, solid swells sometimes turn the coast into brilliant beach breaks. Due to the short distance to Lisbon, the beaches are very crowded in summer and bathers and surfers have to be taken into consideration. In the low season, on the other hand, it is rather quiet except for a few surfers.
7) Lagoa de Albufeira
The lagoon south of Fonte da Telha is a great playground for intermediates and anyone who wants to freeride in a relaxed manner. At the south-western end of the two-kilometre-long lagoon, there is a large car park right on the shore. The wide sandy beach offers space for family and equipment. Otherwise, it is quite unspoilt compared to the Costa da Caparica, for example. A big advantage is the shallow water in many areas of the lagoon, and there is also a windsurfing school for courses and hire. The south-west to north-east course is well suited to Nortada, although it is usually much weaker here than in the north. South-westerly low-pressure winds also work well. Unfortunately, there is one catch: every year in May, the estuary to the sea is dredged up, which means that the water is often too shallow for windsurfing in summer. The lagoon then turns into a large paddling pool and attracts many swimmers. Beware of the strong current as it flows into the sea. Our verdict: An idyllic shallow water spot in the low season.
8) Tróia
Tróia lies at the end of a long headland opposite S. Sebastiao. This is where the Rio Sado flows into the Atlantic as an impressive river delta with often beautiful water colours. The 1.5-hour journey from Lisbon is rewarded with perfect flat water conditions in westerly winds. Freestyle experts also get their money's worth in the mostly shallow water. To get to the headland, you can either take the ferry across the delta from Setubal for 15 euros or you can travel a few more kilometres and head south around the estuary. With a bit of luck, you might even see dolphins alongside a few kiters and windsurfers during one or two sessions. In north-westerly or southerly winds, you can also get good wave conditions on the Atlantic side, but with larger sails, as the north-westerly wind in particular is not as strong here. Beware of stones on the shore at low tide!
