The charismatic Frenchman Thomas Traversa has been thrilling and inspiring windsurfing fans for many years with his journeys to places near and far. The ingredients of his missions are the same. It starts with meticulously analysing the weather charts. This is followed by a decision, often at very short notice, to travel to an exciting - usually rather terrifying - wave. On the spot, he meets up with friends or like-minded people. The courageous rides during big wave surfing are captured by talented photographers and videographers and appear a few months later on the front pages of magazines, can be found in travelogues or are told in exciting stories with the help of impressively shot films. Thomas is always himself. If the conditions don't play ball, then it's back home and back to the weather maps.
Many windsurfers love this natural, unforced approach and admire its unrivalled courage. No matter how long it's been since your last windsurfing session, how far away the next wave spot is, how much your office job is gnawing away at you or how much your body aches and pains are bothering you - just let yourself be captivated by the impressive images for a moment and your routine is broken and your windsurfing spirit is rekindled.
I urgently need to rekindle my personal windsurfing spirit. A nasty injury after the Aloha Classic 2019 and the onset of the coronavirus pandemic more or less put the windsurfing circus on ice for me. There were hardly any competitions or events, and travelling options were severely limited. So I was busy with very German things, such as buying a new car, building a house, planning a family and working on a serious plan B - in between there was a good session with a north-westerly wind in Weißenhaus or in Denmark.
On the plane to Portugal in early January 2022, I can't remember the last time I rode real groundswell waves. My ankle has been bothering me for a few weeks now and my gym membership hasn't paid off yet this winter either. Good thing the biggest waves of the winter are due to hit the Atlantic on 7 and 8 January. My theory is that less muscle mass means less energy consumption during the wash cycle. This in turn means a more relaxed hold-down time underwater.
Nazaré - for hours we watch each monster rolling in and analyse how the wave crests collide from different directions, pile up into gigantic wedges and then crash over. A deep trench that stretches from Nazaré into the Atlantic reflects the swell and makes this unique natural spectacle possible. Although the Nortada is now blowing strongly enough, the spot looks anything but inviting. Maybe the waves are coming from the wrong direction by a few degrees or their intervals are a few seconds too long, or maybe there's another reason - the waves aren't breaking the way Thomas wants them to today.
Change of plans - off to Peniche for some big wave surfing. Relief. The waves there break less chaotically and powerfully, but are neatly lined up on a small rocky outcrop. Downwind there is a channel instead of steep cliffs. Gliding towards land on the fast swell doesn't just feel good - after the dark winter in Germany, the soul is literally liberated. Sun, beach and salt water have rarely tasted so good. Thomas impresses me with vertical turns and fearless aireals.
The wave is difficult to read and a misplaced turn sends me towards the rocks with a broken mast. With a crumpled sail, a new mast and plenty of adrenalin in my system, I make a second attempt. The waves get bigger and bigger. The session is ended by a solid set that rolls over me from behind before I can even go into the bottom turn. The wash is as much a part of wave riding as a cold shower is to a sauna. Thomas also finishes his session on the stones. Even for the lightweight it was too gusty under land. On the rocks we meet Matt, himself a windsurfer from Portugal and our photographer on this trip, as well as Jamie and Luke. The two Brits are filming for the next "Windsurfing Project".
Jamie has been producing great windsurfing videos for several years now. The "Windsurfing Project" is an affair of the heart for the former PWA rider. We recently travelled to Namibia together, where he captured our adventure at Skeleton Bay in moving images. In other projects, he follows Thomas from storm to storm across Europe. He wants to tell a story with his films, he says, and captures the windsurfing action from the water, from the air with a drone or from land.
It's all about variety, the right light, good music and, of course, solid windsurfing action. Some of the projects were financed by sponsors, this time there is no larger budget available. Ultimately, there is also little time for staged car driving scenes. Having the freedom to realise such a project without the specifications and requirements of external parties is also appealing, says Jamie.
The setting sun colours the waves green and the spray golden-yellow, but there is no time for a car park beer and mourning for the destroyed equipment. A six-hour car journey to Galicia for big wave surfing lies ahead of us. On the way to the big wave spot Isla Pancha, the news reaches us before we even see the sea - the Atlantic swell has now reached the Spanish coast. Thomas is delighted. For me, the news, coupled with the strong Spanish coffee and the tortilla breakfast, triggers other (gut) feelings.
Thomas not only knows the differences between all the forecast models, but also just about every spot in the world - some from stories and reports, but most from his own experience. He knows what wind you need, what the tide has to be like, what period and direction the swell has to be in and what weather has a favourable or unfavourable effect on the conditions. He also has an excellent network, knows locals on site and big wave surfers from many countries, enjoys their respect and can usually rely on their support on day X.
However, a big wave surfing mission like this cannot be planned down to the last detail. Our jet ski driver surprisingly lets us down. The wave at Isla Plancha is simply perfect - and a real beast. The jetski support would have had many advantages, but it's fine without it. We look at the entry and exit options, weigh up the risks and swimming distances and head out onto the water as soon as the wind is strong enough at midday, as Thomas had previously announced.
It is an absolute pleasure to chase down the double mast-high waves with a perfect face and a full shoulder. How different this feeling is to what has been routine in recent months. Thomas is also thrilled and can hardly hide his delight. Then the wind suddenly shifts offshore and dies almost completely. We swim in the line-up for a good hour and wait for the wind to pick up again. It comes back but has now turned sideshore. I'm far too deep on the next wave and can't get to safety in time before the lip falls off. After a hairy swim, I head ashore over jagged rocks once again.
At that moment, Thomas suffers exactly the same fate. However, the current doesn't pull him into the small alcove between the two islands like it does me, but further into the river towards a rocky edge that clearly offers no exit option. To avoid being washed onto the dangerous rocks, he sacrifices most of his rig at the last second and paddles further up the river with just a board and fork, where the water is calmer.
The wind is now fully back and we see one perfect wave after another. Without a jet ski, however, we have no chance of getting out on the water again in time for sunset. In the meantime, Matt and Jamie have rented the lighthouse house, which has been converted into a flat.
A few days earlier, I could never have imagined that I would surf such a unique, impressive and perfect wave, get wiped out by a huge lip and then climb up a private lighthouse and fall asleep there a few hours later, completely exhausted. At least there was nothing about it in the holiday description. Even though the extended weekend demanded some sacrifices, I am grateful for the experience and that Thomas showed me this place. The crew around Matt, Jamie and Luke were at least as enthusiastic and committed. We say goodbye in Galicia. We head in different directions back to our "normal" activities or home to the family. Everyone is already looking forward to the next adventure and breaking out of the routine.
Daily news from the big wave hunters Leon and Thomas can also be found on their social media accounts.
