Back in 2005, we vowed never to come to Croatia again. Back then, we wanted to do a guide on the subject of "Accessible wave spots within six to eight hours travelling time from Munich" and had been to Imperia, Hyeres, Chioggia and Baska on Krk, an island in Croatia. We already knew that the other spots were mega-good, but Baska had been recommended to us by a friend as if it were THE spot for waves in Croatia. The trip turned out to be a mega disaster, as it felt like we had ten wind forces flat onshore and there wasn't a single other surfer on the beach. There wasn't really a wave in sight - maybe you could call it a "big chop". I don't think I was even on the water myself. The wave was so far from "yay" that it didn't even tempt us to take a few shots for the magazine.
In addition to the poor windsurfing conditions, I was really extremely surprised at how everything had changed as a result of the harsh war period in the 90s. As a child, I travelled to Croatia almost every year during the summer holidays - until the war - with my parents and our sailing boat to chug down the coast. I could only remember extremely friendly people who welcomed us with joy. We almost felt like locals every year in the pubs and cafés, regardless of whether we had been there the years before or were sipping a coffee for the first time. In 2005, some of the roads were still damaged from the war and even newly built roads and buildings were already falling apart again, badly blocked off. The political problems were apparently still on the minds of the population, people were sometimes unfriendly towards us and we felt as if we were unwanted guests. We were greeted curtly in the pubs and in the supermarket the prices were changed from "summer tourists" to "winter locals" right under our noses on the shelves - of course we still had to pay tourist prices. It almost seemed as if the Croats preferred to keep to themselves.
Do you want to go there again? Not really... That meant the "end" for Croatia for the time being and we drove back home disappointed!
We could never have imagined that the country would give us a "never-ending story" and that it would take us four years to get a wave guide!
Never ever! Or is it?
After our farce on Krk, things quietened down around Croatia's coast. With a good forecast, we now preferred to travel to Chioggia on the Adriatic, where at least we knew what to expect - namely plenty of wave action, pizza and gelati!
Our good friend Milos Milosevic from Slovenia has told us from time to time about incredibly good spots on the islands and mainland of Croatia. He would always go there with a southerly wind, the "Yugo", and hit a few decent waves.
For a long time we laughed at him and didn't believe a word he said! We had already been there ourselves and where should there be good conditions? NEVER!
From today's perspective, I have to be very grateful to Milos for urging us to come to Croatia every year - because it would be "so good" and "so great" there. After five more years, the time had come and Milos had really softened us up. In 2010, we packed up the van and set off again...
First stop: Umag!
After around five hours from Munich, we were already in Umag - the only spot with a fairly short journey, as we didn't want to take any risks at the time. The conditions were pretty relaxed and Umag actually greeted us with some waves and turned out to be a good jumping spot with side onshore wind from the left. The entry via the stone jetty needs to be well timed, but once out you are rewarded with clean waves. We were surprised.
The next morning, we travelled a little over an hour further south to the Premantura peninsula. The wind was supposed to pick up again that day and so we were greeted by a spot called "Kamenjak", which is located next to a beautiful pine forest, with mast-high waves and a strong side-onshore wind from the left. Milos really hadn't promised too much! The waves were really something and you soon forgot that it was "only" the Adriatic Sea you were surfing. The washes could easily keep up with those in South Africa & Co. Afterwards we could only enthuse: "Brilliant! Unbelievable, but brilliant!" Since that day, we have travelled there at least twice a winter.
"The one island"
The very next year (2011) we received another email from Milos. This time, we didn't dismiss it as a mindless crackpot: "Fancy coming to an island at the weekend? Down-the-line surfing! Forecast is looking good :-)" Yes, you read that right: Down! the! Line!
We couldn't believe it either and when we got there, after the motorway, ferry ride and bends, we could hardly believe our eyes. Waves as high as a logo, peeling around a small cape into a bay and allowing the finest wave rides with side-shore winds - until our arms fell off. The turquoise water was 16 degrees and the air was 20 degrees in December, when there was already snow on the doorstep at home and the ski lifts were in full operation. We could hardly believe our luck. But when we started to take the first photos, the locals weren't happy. We had to promise them not to reveal the location of the spot.
2013 - The "never-ending story" continues...
In 2013, we were definitely hooked on Croatia, so we visited three more times to get even better shots for this guide. Initially, we planned a three-day trip to the island to get some more great water shots, but this was cancelled because the fantastic forecast of 40 knots was corrected to an incredible five knots. Unfortunately, we only realised this at the spot. So we had a nice barbecue and then headed back. Great action!
A month later, we tried our luck again in Kamenjak to get a few freestyle shots in the lower part of the bay. After our arrival, the wind set in as predicted, but was still too weak to glide properly. So Fabi came back out of the water and parked his equipment on the beach to have a quick drink and wait a little longer. An apple's length and a few sips of water later, the whitecaps increased and, armed with my camera, I set off for the water, while Mr Weber went over to his equipment, which he had deposited behind a small hill out of sight from the car park. After about ten minutes, I walked in his direction as the dwarf just wouldn't go on the water...
Fabi: "Shit! They've ripped off my material! I can't find it anywhere. Zefixx, that can't be!!!
Even with the help of Boris, the nice owner of the windsurfing school in Premantura and a surf bar, we couldn't find the stuff again.
But at least the next day there was plenty of rain on "the island" in the form of perfect waves. After rain comes sunshine...
Boris invited us to his windsurfing bar and bought us a few beers in response to our frustration after the equipment theft. According to him, we were just unlucky. Compared to other southern European countries, very little is stolen in Croatia. After a few beers, he really thawed out and somehow I had the feeling that it was still there: the warmth of the people, just as I knew it from before. And another attribute still applies to the locals: they are very hard-drinking! After a few pivo, Boris told us about other good spots in Medulin and it was a miracle (and lucky for you as a reader of the Spot Guide) that I was able to memorise the directions with an estimated 15 per mille...
Around Medulin and Premantura there are countless bays and beaches on the rugged land masses, which are still unsurfed and will appeal to all explorers. The numerous harbours are also tempting for cruising and tricks. With the slalom equipment, you can really explore many bays and go on short tours with your buddies or let off steam safely in the sheltered bays of Premantura, even as an intermediate surfer.
We checked a few of these bays and harbours for you with slalom material at the end of 2013 and gave Medulin another update.
And here it is, our wave guide for northern Croatia! It was a good idea to give this country and its inhabitants a second chance, the spots are amazing and you always find friendly and open people.
ARRIVAL:
From Munich, it is best to drive via Salzburg and through Slovenia to Croatia. You need a vignette for Austria (10 days: 8.50 euros) and also one for Slovenia (7 days: 15 euros). The journey from Munich to Umag takes around five hours. The other spots can be reached in six to nine hours. The ferries to the islands run regularly and you don't need to pre-book anything.
WIND, WEATHER & NEOPRENE:
Croatia's wave spots come to life in autumn with the first low-pressure systems. They all need the "Yugo", a warm south-southeast wind that brings mild temperatures, often increases over several days and brings great waves. A typical Yugo phase often ends with bad weather, after which you have the best chance of a full Bora from the north-east, which is colder but can last for days and provides flat water or bump & jump conditions. So if you're not just looking for waves, you'll often find yourself on the water. You can find a spot guide with many flat water spots in the region in surf 03/2010 or at www.surf-magazin.de in the travel centre.
With southerly winds, temperatures are often around 15 degrees, even in winter, and the water is never below 13 degrees, even in February. Nevertheless, you should pack a thick wetsuit, shoes and a bonnet, as it can get cold, especially when the bora is blowing. Many spots are also very rocky, so shoes are recommended.
SURFCENTER
Usually open from March to November, if you want to go to the wave spots you will need your own equipment.
Premantura & Medulin:
LIVING & CAMPING
Campsites and hotels are often closed in the winter months. Wild camping is officially prohibited and is penalised in summer, but in the winter months a blind eye is often turned. The region is excellently developed for tourism and rooms and apartments are available everywhere in the low season without pre-booking.
ALTERNATIVE PROGRAMME
PulaThe charming alleyways, cafés and the amphitheatre of the supposedly 7000-year-old trading town are definitely worth a visit.
RovinjPicturesque old town with lots of flair and, in summer, a tourist magnet for good reason.
Local tipNumerous hiking and biking trails offer plenty of variety. One of the most beautiful trails is the one up to the 588 metre high Tevrina on the island of Losinj, from where you have a fantastic view over the region. It starts in the village of Sv. Jakov and takes about three hours to get there and back.
THE SPOTS:
1) Umag
A five-hour drive from Munich, at the northern end of the Istrian peninsula. You can surf just north of the small harbour and sleep right at the spot next to the large hotel (which is empty in winter). As everywhere from November to April, you have to look for open bars and restaurants. The entrance is via a shallow and fairly safe stone plateau. The shallows, where the biggest waves form, are marked by two large buoys in front of the lighthouse. Here you can ride moderate waves to your heart's content and jump quite well with wind from the left - the spot is also quite safe for wave beginners. However, you should make sure that you don't get too far downwind on the water, as - depending on the wind direction - there is a small wind cover below the entry point and it's easy to park up. The exit is then usually by swimming just below the entrance over a flat but safe stone plate.
2) Kamenjak
Kamenjak is located in the middle of a beautiful pine forest right by the water. The spot can be reached via a gravel road and is well signposted. If you are coming from the north, simply follow the signs to "Windsurf Station Rt Kamenjak".
The spot looks harmless from the car park, as the wave breaks a little further out over a reef plate. The entry is via flat rock slabs in moderate chop conditions. If there are no surfers out yet, it's easy to underestimate the wave height, but as soon as you get a little closer, they often turn out to be mast-high breakers in strong yugo conditions - which hardly forgive any mistakes! If you experience material breakage, you have to rely on your buddies, the next piece of land is Prematura two kilometres downwind. In the centre of the spot is an impressive shoal mark where the best waves break. We always tried to give it a wide berth (or bottom turn) and not to lie flat in front of it. Once you've got the hang of it, the spot is a real recommendation for experienced surf surfers on big days - the waves are really powerful and are perfect for jumping and riding downwind with side-onshore winds. In the southern part of the bay and away from the large reef plate you will find more relaxed bump & jump conditions.
3) Medulin Kazela
The first associated spot can be reached via a gravel road in front of the "Kamp Kazela". Simply follow the road to the water and park almost directly at the water's edge in a small car park. Here you can comfortably rig up and enter the water upwind. The entry over the rock slabs is OK, not much more difficult than at other spots. The wave builds up quite cleanly, you have side-onshore conditions from the left. Every now and then you can get a good jump, but usually you "only" ride it down, as the wave breaks very close to the shore and is usually not steep enough to jump further out. Even if the wave invites you, you shouldn't ride it for too long, as you could end up on the rocks. Recommended for advanced and experienced surfers, wave intermediates will also find moderate bump & jump conditions off the reef plate downwind.
4) Medulin Kasteja
Because the spot is more moderate and less dangerous than Kazela, it is usually much busier here. You can park directly at the spot on the road, where you have on-side wind from the left and better ramps for the odd jump session. There is less riding here as there are only steep wind waves. Also suitable for wave beginners. Windsurfing centre Medulin at Autocamp Medulin.
5) Premantura
Croatia's surfing stronghold is usually rather moderate - in Bora you can hone your manoeuvres on flat water in the numerous sheltered bays, and in strong Yugo a few swell waves can also get lost here, depending on where you start. A good combination spot for anyone who is not looking for radical wave action. There's also all the infrastructure you need - at least from March to November - with pubs, restaurants, a surf centre and overnight accommodation right on site.
6) Osor
Osor doesn't qualify as a real surf spot, but wave intermediates can surf here in moderate bump & jump conditions. Access at Lopari campsite, directly behind the small bridge that connects the islands of Cres and Losinj. Wind from the right and moderate swell waves that never get higher than 1.5 metres, even on strong yugo days. Various entry points at the campsite, from bed to board in three minutes. You can surf on flat water here when the bora is blowing (north-east), although the wind is a bit gusty.
7 "The island"
The spot is located on an island that can only be reached by ferry. Once there, you follow a maze of dirt tracks through the dense forest to a cape on the west coast. You will be rewarded with really good wave conditions. Like all spots in Croatia, this spot also has a reef plate as a base, so shoes are advisable. The entrance is via a small pier, over which the shorebreak breaks on big days. So concentrate, pay attention to the timing and start quickly. The wind blows sideshore from the left, the wave breaks as a point break around a small cape and can get as high as a mast on good yugo days. If you don't fall in the first two metres, the wave washes you past all the dangerous rocks parallel to the shore and you can simply swim back to shore if necessary, where the wave gently fades out. If you start riding far upwind, you can expect around six (!) turns! The day after the Yugo has subsided, you can unpack the SUP and carve up a few waves!
Surf tip: You can find information on other (shallow water) spots in surf 3/2010 or at www.surf-magazin.de/reisen
