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Vienna, March: Winter is stubborn and once again far too long. Like most windsurfing addicts in Central Europe, I, Max Brinnich, am starving and longing for spring. I've had the stable wind forecast for the Adriatic on my screen for a few days now - 17 degrees is the forecast, as the Scirocco, also known as the "Jugo", shovels warm air and often Saharan sand from the north of Africa onto the Adriatic coast.
It's already pouring down with rain on the motorway in Slovenia and my girlfriend's face is getting longer and longer in the passenger seat. Did I "forget" to mention that Jugo often brings rain? There are often long traffic jams when crossing the border into Croatia, but certainly not now, at the beginning of March. With every kilometre down to the sea, the temperature gauge climbs further towards "spring-like" and the sight of blossoming lemon trees noticeably lifts the mood in the car. First of all, we head for Umag. With southerly winds, there are waves here with wind from the left.
Jugo and bora provide plenty of wind in Croatia
My mate Chris Sammer is already on the water and is clearly enjoying the good conditions. Unfortunately, it starts to rain and the wind drops before we make it onto the water. That also has to be said: Rain sometimes kills the Jugo - but mostly it comes back. We want to head further south anyway, to Medulin, one of the top spots for southerly winds. You can start here in a safe bay behind a sandbank, with small jump ramps further out. As we hit the water, the sun comes out and the scirocco picks up. In the afternoon, I'm surfing with my 3.6 sail at the stop, without a bonnet, in March. No wonder the cevapcici and Karlovacko beer in the local pub taste twice as good as usual after such a day.
The deterioration in the weather that the warm Scirocco usually brings with it is also the trigger for another wind phenomenon in the region this time: the infamous bora. It is caused by cooling over the mountains on the mainland and often comes in sudden bursts. Bora can be very strong all year round, and in the winter months it sometimes blows for ten days in a row for the smallest sails. In the height of winter it can get really cold, and in spring you should at least bring a bonnet.
Istria offers the choice between flat water and waves
The spot Liznjan welcomes us the next day with a steel-blue sky. And flying water. The bora is flexing its muscles. Armed with small sails, we set off into battle. Fortunately, it's quite safe to surf in Liznjan even in a storm and you also have the choice between flat water, swell and small waves for jumping. Completely flattened, we set off in the evening in search of a place to stay. The great thing about Istria is that you can stay close to the beach almost anywhere: Whether you're staying in a stylish four-star hotel, a flat or on a campsite by the water, the distances are usually short and sometimes even make annoying car journeys superfluous. Now in winter, of course, there are signs in many places saying "Zatvoren" - closed. But you will always find what you are looking for.
After a few days of alternating jugo and bora, we set off on our journey home and pay a visit to the beautiful old town of Rovinj. There's no question that we'll be back. The winter at home is just too long.
The best spots for windsurfing in northern Croatia
1) Izola
Izola is the first port of call for many Slovenians and Austrians when it comes to boralage. The spot is located in the Slovenian part of the Istrian peninsula and is surfed at "Plaza Izola", in front of the lighthouse. Here, you can land on grass and enter the water via a coarse pebble beach. Bora from the east-north-east is relatively constant here and comes sideshore from the right, offering good bump & jump conditions. As soon as the bora gets really strong (>25 knots), there is even a small wave around the small cape to the north of the marina, which invites you to safely ride down the frontside with wind from the right and make some jumps. As the coastline bends again further downwind, it is also relatively safe to surf, as it is unlikely to drift off.
2) Savudrija
Just over the Croatian border is another bora spot, Savudrija. Especially when the wind is not blowing in the south of Istria, but is blowing here in the north of the peninsula - be sure to check the weather maps. Getting in and out is relatively difficult because it is rocky, and there is also an area on the shore that is covered by the wind. As soon as you have left this behind, the bora, coming from the Slovenian town of Portoroz, creates small chop to moderate swell waves, depending on the wind strength, which invite you to heat up and jump around. When it hammers, the waves can also become "surf-like". All in all, Savudrija isn't bad - but if the spots in the south of the peninsula are also windy, you should cut out the extra kilometres.
3) Umag
Umag, on the west coast of Istria, is a top spot when the scirocco is strong. The entrance is not far to the north-west of the small harbour. There is a small car park, and in the low season you should also be able to find a spot in the hotel car parks. The entrance is relatively easy, either using the narrow stretch of beach or the small jetty. Scirocco from SSE is ideal, it comes sideshore from the left and is wonderfully constant at the spot. If it is blowing at 20 knots, the waves in front of the small lighthouse remain moderate (up to 1.5 metres) and also give wave beginners a chance. But if it storms with 30 knots or more, Umag becomes really official. Then the waves break powerfully on the reef up to logohigh and are perfect for big jumps and frontside rides.
Here's a short clip with impressions from Umag on a day with a powerful Scirocco:
You only need to be careful of the (clearly visible) shoal markings. Despite the sometimes high waves, Umag is not a particularly dangerous spot. The waves run out moderately and if you get washed up, you can get back on the board further downwind or even ashore. The holiday resort of Umag also has all the necessary infrastructure such as bars, restaurants, accommodation and, a little further north, even an upmarket campsite. The only drawback is that this spot is very busy on good days.
4) Premantura/Stupice
The heart of Istria's windsurfing scene undoubtedly beats at the southernmost tip, around Premantura. The bay-rich stretch of coast south of Pula offers spots for every wind direction and the best infrastructure with hotels, campsites, restaurants and well-equipped windsurfing schools. Stupice is located on the eastern side of the peninsula, and the campsite of the same name offers a view of the water with an unbeatably short distance between bed and board.
If you only come here to surf for the day, you can also buy a day ticket at the Stupice campsite and use the infrastructure. Getting into the water is quite straightforward and because the bora blows onshore here, you can surf without the risk of drifting off. Depending on the wind strength, the water is either quite smooth or with a small swell. Scirocco is also easy to ride here, blowing sideshore from the right. Because some offshore islands block the powerful swell, you can usually manage here even without wave experience. As soon as the Scirocco takes a westerly turn, it becomes gusty and increasingly covered.
5) Premantura/Kamenjak
A little further towards Cape Kamenjak is one of the wildest and most beautiful wave spots in Croatia. You can reach the Kamenjak spot via small gravel roads by following the signposts; there is an entrance fee to the nature reserve. Anyone standing on the shore in summer thermals or bora and watching the tranquil hustle and bustle around the local surf school on smooth water would have no idea that Kamenjak really mutates when the scirocco is strong. With a run-up of several hundred kilometres, the wind from the Southeast pushes powerful swell onto the coast, which unloads its power onto an offshore shoal. The entrance is via a flat rocky plate (beware of sea urchins) and is easy to do, also because there is only moderate chop in this area.
In the front area of the bay, you will find bump & jump conditions in strong winds, which you can master even without wave experience. A powerful wave breaks on the offshore reef, which - depending on the wind strength - can be between chest and mast high, but you can approach it slowly. SSO wind comes sideonshore from the right on the reef. The angle is often a little too onshore for frontside riding, but it's definitely good for jumping. Kamenjak has power - if you tear up your equipment, you won't end up on the rocks, but you can look forward to a longer swim. You also need to be careful of the large shoal marks in the surf zone.
6) Pomer
The Pomer spot is protected from waves in a bay and is therefore easy and safe to surf. The best place to get in is on the southern shore of the bay, in the area of the campsites - so you can also stay close to the spot here. The wakeboard lift on the north shore is also a good starting point. With thermals or moderate bora, the water remains nice and smooth; only in strong winds do smaller chops occur, but these do not present any obstacles and do not spoil the freeriding fun. Due to the good shallow water conditions, it is not surprising that a windsurfing centre has also been established here. Due to the sheltered location, the bora is somewhat gustier and weaker here than in Premantura or Liznjan.
7) Medulin/Kasteja
Medulin is located to the east of Premantura and can actually be divided into two surf spots. In Bijeca Bay - this spot is also known as "Kasteja" - the waves are moderate, even when the scirocco is strong, as the shallows in front of it block the waves. A good starting point is downwind of the Octopus restaurant, where you can start in smooth water and then feel your way into the swell in sometimes shallow water. Even in strong winds, there are still shallow water or bump & jump conditions here, which are easy to master even without surf experience. Further out, however, there are steep jump ramps. The Arena Medulin campsite is also very close to the spot and has a surf centre. In Bora it is offshore and gusty here, Premantura or Liznjan are better alternatives.
8) Medulin/Kazela
Not far east of Kasteja, Medulin offers a second spot, which is located in front of the Kazela campsite. Depending on the wind angle, Bora comes side-offshore to sideshore and brings slightly gusty conditions with some chop. Wave fans get their money's worth in Kazela with a strong scirocco from the SSE, which blows sideonshore from the left. This creates a powerful swell that can easily reach 2.5 metres in stormy conditions. However, the waves break quite close to the shore, so whether you have to make the last frontside turn or prefer to get out of the wave in time before the rocks depends on your personal wave skills and willingness to take risks. The bottom line is that Kazela at Scirocco is more for experienced surfers and less for wave beginners.
9) Liznjan
Liznjan is located a few kilometres east of Medulin. You can surf in Kuje Bay, the entry point is on the north shore - just turn left before the harbour and follow the signs towards "Windsurf". You can park directly at the spot under the pine trees, the entrance is in a small indentation and is relatively easy to do. Liznjan is a tip for two reasons: firstly, Bora is always strongest and most constant here. Secondly, in strong winds there is a nice mixture of bump & jump conditions and sometimes even moderate onshore waves on the offshore reef. If the bora is firing from all cylinders, a two-metre-high swell is possible on the reef, which is perfect for jumping. In the lee of the surf zone, protected by a rocky outcrop on the opposite side of the bay, there is also a small area with very smooth water for freestyling and practising manoeuvres. The only small drawback of this spot: It can sometimes get quite crowded here.
Area information Istria
Journey
The Istrian peninsula is easily accessible by motorhome, and it takes just over six hours to get there from Munich and Vienna. Depending on the route, tolls are charged in Italy and Slovenia. In the summer months, the region is also easily accessible by plane, with connections to Pula offered from many Central European airports. In winter, you have to take a diversion via Zagreb or Split by plane, but it's easier by campervan.
Living & Camping
Croatia and Slovenia are very well developed for tourism, with a full range of holiday flats, hotels and campsites in a wide variety of price categories. As only a few tourists come to the Adriatic between November and Easter, many hotels and campsites are closed. However, if you check the usual portals on the internet, you will always find what you are looking for spontaneously; some sites also offer winter camping. Wild camping is prohibited in both countries, but coaches are often tolerated in winter, as long as you don't leave any rubbish behind and don't spread out too much. Most campsites are open again from Easter. Here you can often camp in the shade under tall pine trees and sometimes close to spots, e.g. here:
Izola
Savudrija
Umag
Premantura/Pomer
Medulin
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations
The Istrian peninsula is supplied with wind by different weather conditions. When a low-pressure system moves from the western Mediterranean towards the Adriatic, it announces itself with the onset of a south-easterly wind - known as "scirocco" or "jugo". Scirocco occurs more frequently in the winter months, blows very constantly and sometimes intensifies over days, sometimes to gale force. It often brings a deterioration in the weather, large swells and very mild temperatures - even in the height of winter, +15 degrees is easily possible.
Following low-pressure systems, the notorious bora usually sets in from the east to north-east, which has its origins in strong cooling over the mountains of the mainland. Bura often sets in very suddenly, and gale or even hurricane force winds are not uncommon. In Istria and elsewhere, it blows more gustily than the Scirocco and provides noticeable cooling. In summer, Bora moderates the heat and usually subsides after one to three days. Between October and April, it can sometimes blow for a week at a time, but the air temperatures then quickly drop below 10 degrees in winter.
The ideal travel time for windsurfers is therefore autumn, from September to the end of November - with mild temperatures of around 20 degrees, the jugo and bora are often at each other's beck and call. The period between the end of March and June is also windy and mild. Even though it was difficult to find meaningful wind statistics, you can expect around 50 per cent of the wind to be crosswind in autumn, winter and spring and around 25 per cent in midsummer. In midsummer, strong scirocco is as common as a six in the lottery, but good bora and moderate thermals from the west ("maestral") including bathtub temperatures are always possible.
Wind forecasts at www.windfinder.com, windguru.com, www.windy.com and at www.meteo.hr
Regardless of the time of year, shoes are advisable as the ground is often stony and sea urchins are not uncommon.
Surf stations
The good wind conditions in combination with the bay-rich coastline have given rise to a lively surfing scene in Istria. Hot spots are clearly Premantura and Medulin, where you can book courses at well-equipped surf centres or hire the latest windsurfing and SUP equipment. There are also surf centres on the west coast of Istria, but these offer good light wind conditions, especially in summer when the thermals blow from the west to northwest, and are worth a visit for beginners and intermediates.
Porec
- Pro Surf: prosurf.com.hr
Bale
- Sunset Beach Club: www.watersportscroatia.com
Premantura
- Windsurfing Centre Premantura: www.windsurfing.hr
- Windsurfing centre: www.windsurfstation.com
Pomer
- Geromella Surf Centre: www.surfpomer.hr
Medulin
- Windsurfing Centre Medulin: www.windsurfing.hr
- Tsunami Windsurfing: https://surf.hr
Shops
If you need replacement equipment, you can also get some in the surf centres around Premantura. The closest surf shop is Surf Shop Istra in Pula ( www.surfshopistra.com )
Alternative programme
There are plenty of alternatives in Istria to get you through a few lazy days. The old town of Pula with its amphitheatre and impressive aquarium are good tips, as is the beautiful coastal town of Rovinj with its dreamy alleyways, cafés and churches. SUP tours along the rugged coastline are also a great change of pace. A visit to the gigantic stalactite caves near Postojna in Slovenia is well worthwhile on the way to or from the holiday destination.
Good to know
Croatia is part of the EU and has been paying in euros since 2023. You can move freely and safely throughout the country. There are many mosquitoes in the region in summer, so appropriate protection is advisable. The Croatian police are no joke when it comes to wild camping, alcohol and drug offences in road traffic and open fires during the dry season - the penalties for these offences are severe.
