After our return from Greece in 2002, where we ran a surf centre, and a first visit to Lake Garda, we realised. "That's not an option for us for windsurfing"; too much hustle and bustle and too expensive as a family! So I remembered windsurfing guests from Veneto who told me about a lake with very reliable thermals where there were hardly any windsurfers. Our daughter had already started school and so we set off for the Whitsun holidays to Lago di Santa Croce, which we didn't really know anything about, just roughly where the lake was! The journey through the Dolomites was an experience in itself: a large snake devoured a mouse next to us at the snack bar near Cortina. When we arrived at the lake, we couldn't believe it, because there were five Beaufort winds and only three windsurfers on the whole lake. We just thought: "Wow!"
And it should stay that way, nice weather and wind every day. It was only at the weekend that the Baywatch bar was busy: no fewer than 20 windsurfers. We were the only German windsurfers on the whole lake at the time. There was a cosy atmosphere and we met very friendly and helpful locals. As a result, we spent a lot of time in this region over the last few years and made many friends and acquaintances there! When our daughter was younger and we were already surfing the early morning wind on Lago Morto, we used to go on day trips to Lignano (115 km) to the beach and sea. In the evening we went to Luna Park, so the whole family was happy. Conclusion: If you're looking for a quiet area for windsurfing and can do without strong winds, the Belluno region with the Lago di Santa Croce is the place to be.
General information:
Lago di Santa Croce is a pre-Alpine lake in Veneto, Italy, located around 90 kilometres north of Venice. The reservoir is the second largest lake in Veneto in the province of Belluno with an area of 7.8 km², a length of 5.5 kilometres and an average depth of 33 metres. The main town is Farra d'Alpago on the NE side of the lake, which is around 390 metres above sea level. The western shore is uninhabited, with the small village of Santa Croce al Lago at the southern end. The area is popular with windsurfers and kitesurfers, as well as paragliders, hikers, anglers and mountain bikers from northern Italy, Tyrol and southern Bavaria, but is not overcrowded. The steep mountains around the lake offer countless hiking trails and mountain bike routes. The winter sports resort of Nevegal is also located nearby. In addition to small towns such as Farra d'Alpago, Santa Croce and Puos d'Alpago, the Prosecco region with the town of Valdobbiadene is in the immediate vicinity. Buying Prosecco directly from the winemaker and tastings on site are another highlight of the region. Monte Dolada is a highlight for paragliders, who often fly right up to the lake and land directly at the surf spot at the campsite in Farra.
Journey:From Munich approx. 390 kilometres via Innsbruck-Brenner exit Brixen, then country road towards Brunneck; at Innichen turn right up the mountain road to Cortina d'Ampezzo. Quasi over the Dolomites and then towards Venice to Lago di Santa Croce and the village of Farra d'Alpago.
Living & Camping:Hotel Albergo alla Spiaggi directly at the spot www.albergoallaspiaggia.com/ . Also: In the village of Farra (about five minutes' walk to the lake) Bed and Breakfast Da Guerrino (bookable via various booking platforms).
Camping Farra d'Alpago: www.sarathei.it/de/
Villa al Lago B&B www.villaallago.it/ at the southern end of the lake in Santa Croce (five minutes by car to the spots)
Further accommodation B&B and simple private accommodation on the web according to taste.
Food and bars:Snack Bar la Vela on the way to the Baywatch Bar, 150 metres ahead. Right next door Bar da Fortunato with a beautiful terrace and view of the centre of the lake.
Albergo Ristorante Bellavista above the hill with an unforgettable view over the Lago di Santa Croce - Via Piantura 22 in Farra. There is a good pizzeria at the Sarathei campsite. Albergo Pizzeria Ristoranti Dolomiti Frazione La Secca 5,32014 La Secca (5 km from Farra).
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations:Although Lago di St. Croce is located in Bella Italia, in spring (March/April) the water can be quite fresh at around 10-12 degrees and the outside temperature during the day at 15-20 degrees - at night it is often even slightly below zero. The meltwater from the surrounding mountains flows directly into the lake. A thick wetsuit with shoes and a neoprene bonnet is therefore recommended in March and April. From May onwards, the lake quickly warms up to 20 degrees, and in the summer months a short-sleeved steamer or often a shorty is sufficient. The magic word for wind on the Croce is "il Thermico da Sud", i.e. thermal southerly wind, which usually arises from midday when high pressure prevails and blows with up to seven Beaufort in spring between March and May (often from 11:00 a.m.). As the temperature difference between day and night is very large, the thermals can develop most strongly through the surrounding mountains, which are up to 2500 metres high and have little flora.
The thermals often blow from the south until the sun disappears behind the mountains at around 19:00. From 17:00 the wind becomes increasingly gusty, but the gusts are several football pitches big and strong, so still perfect for freestyle and manoeuvres of all kinds, as the lake remains flat.
June and July also bring around 50 to 70 per cent gliding winds, with the wind range between four and five Beaufort and, in the best case, six Beaufort. Only in midsummer, mid-July/August, do the thermals weaken due to the warm and humid weather and the regular wind is then more like three to four Beaufort. Only during cold spells in August can there be two or three days of good wind with four to six Beaufort.
From September to November, the wind strength and frequency on the Croce increases again. The phenomenon of foggy winds can occur in October/November: In the Veneto plain as far as Venice, the sea and the cooling effect create fog up to an altitude of 200-300 metres. At Lago di Santa Croce (approx. 400 metres above sea level) and in the mountains there is bright sunshine and usually around 20 degrees or more - this temperature difference creates a stationary cold front on the lake and thermals of up to seven Beaufort.
The frequency of thunderstorms increases in the height of summer in July/August (the night-time cooling in the mountains and the narrow valley create a strong northerly wind), when a very good northerly wind of five to seven Beaufort can be expected between 5:00 and 10:00 a.m. at Lago Morto, which lies at 273 metres and a few kilometres south of Lago di Santa Croce. In the other months too, there can be a north wind of around 50 per cent at Lago Morto. Only a light northerly wind (1-2 Bft.) can be felt on the Croce from the good northerly wind in the morning on the Morto.
The two lakes are ideal for freeriders and the slalom/foil (beginner/intermediate) and freestyle disciplines. The sail size is between 5.5 and 8.5 square metres. In the windy months up to June and from September, I sail as a freestyler with a 78-kilo sail with 4.8 to 5.2 square metres. On Lago Morto, when there are thunderstorms and a northerly current, I use sails of 4.4 to 5.6 square metres. The water remains flat on both lakes, with positive chop!
Wind information can be found at:
Alternative programme:
Wakeboarding Farra d'Alpago: www.dolomitiwb.com/en/
Sailing club/school south shore: Santa Croce on the Croce with webcam view northwards to the Farra spot and Sarathei campsite: www.lnibelluno.it/
Information for mountain tours etc. in the Dolomites:
Excursions to Belluno, Vittorio Veneto, Trevisio and Venice.
Lago di St. Croce - the spots
1 Farra d'Alpago
Windsurfers and kitesurfers alike can get into the water in Farra d'Alpago on the beach in front of the campsite. Pay attention to the water level here, as it can be a little lower in the summer months and the ground can be muddy (similar to Lake Neusiedl). Guests of the campsite have direct access to the beach, otherwise there is a large car park directly in front of it (for a fee). There is a new toilet facility and showers on the sunbathing lawn. It is about 100 metres to the water and there is plenty of space for rigging. The wind is onshore here. Depending on the wind strength, there is flat water to light chop. The lake is around 2.5 kilometres wide at this point; the only problem for surfers here is that the kitesurfing hotspot is right in front of the campsite, which means it can get really crowded at weekends and during the holiday season. In this case, if the wind is favourable, simply pull up and cross and you will have a lot more space. The best wind usually blows in the centre of the lake. The entrance here is pebbly and sandy and often muddy; there are some clearly visible stones in the water.
2 Poetto "Baywatch Bar"
This is the hotspot for local windsurfers; kiting is officially prohibited here! There are around 50 parking spaces available at the Baywatch bar (for a fee). In front of the sunbathing lawn (grass and pebbles), which is under the bar's licence, there are large shady trees and a few benches to relax on. Here you can easily rig up and put down your equipment, taking the few sunbathers into consideration. Just to windward is the sailing and surfing club, where the wind comes in from the left about half an hour earlier than at the campsite and is almost always a few knots stronger than in Farra. Perfect flat water makes it good for heating and freestyling. If the wind is more south-easterly, it is two to three Beaufort stronger on the opposite side of the lake and only gusty in front of the Baywatch Bar. In this case, bob around 500 metres towards the centre of the lake, by which time you are usually already in the wind field. The Baywatch Bar spot is roughly in the centre of the lake and this is where the strongest wind range is. The entrance is via a concrete ramp three to four metres wide. On good windy days, the wind comes from 17:00 with really strong and long gusts to trick directly at Baywatch-Bar and usually stays until the sun disappears behind the mountains! Depending on the time of year, there are 20 to 50 windsurfers on the water here at weekends. During the week, only ten to 20 or less - even during the German holiday season. So it's "all easy" and relaxed. Many locals come from Venice and Trevisio and you always meet the same people here and have been doing so for many years. If you greet someone in a friendly manner, you are immediately welcomed warmly. So far, it has never been a problem to spend the night on site in the bus or car (some windsurfers from the Venice and Trevisio area do this at the weekend). However, there are no public toilet facilities here; toilets only at the Baywatch bar.
3 Lago Morto
Lago Morto, located nine kilometres south of Lago di Santa Croce, is a small lake about 1.5 kilometres long and around 600 metres wide and lies at an altitude of around 270 metres. From Lago di Santa Croce, head south on the famous Strada Statale 51 di Alemagna to Fadalto, where you can see the lake just below the road. In the village, before the Bristot bar, turn right into Via della Ferrovia for about 500 metres directly to the spot. There are plenty of parking spaces here, so far free of charge, and the water is 50 metres away. The sunbathing lawn in front of the lake can be used for rigging and storing equipment.
The wind from the north usually sets in at 2.00 a.m., depending on the month it is often possible to surf shortly after 5.00 a.m. with the dawn. The wind blows best in the centre of the lake; the water remains flat and invites you to heat up and do tricks. At around 7.30 am, the sun comes over the mountains and creates a special light and a great feeling. The sun gives the wind another kick and it usually gets stronger for another hour. On good days, the wind blows until around 10:00 to 11:00, but as it gets warmer, it becomes weaker and weaker.
