Crap. Traffic jam again. Nothing works. I'm stationary. The car in front of me is already bleating in annoyance. He's bleating? Oh yes, I'm in the evening "after-work traffic", in the middle of a flock of Sardinian sheep, returning from work in the pasture to the stable at home. Costa Smeralda, mega yachts, parties for the rich and famous, Flavio Briatore's Billionaires Club. Dream beaches and dream bays with crystal-clear water, plus famous windsurfing spots such as Porto Pollo - this is probably the image that most people spontaneously have in mind when you bring Sardinia into the picture.
But there is another Sardinia, no less beautiful, but more unspoilt and relaxed - like around Oristano. There are no villas here, no magnificent marinas. In some small and almost deserted villages, the houses could easily be the backdrop for an Italian western. In the streets between the small, dilapidated huts, the only thing missing is a shrub that rolls along the road driven by the wind. At least there is usually plenty of wind...
There are no traffic jams of expensive cars here, you are more likely to get stuck behind a tractor or in the middle of a flock of sheep. This corner of Sardinia was densely populated a long time ago and has an eventful history. The Phoenicians settled here, followed by the Romans. Even then, the three most important points for property were: location, location and location. Anyone who visits the ruins of Tharros, then one of the most important cities in Sardinia, on the southern tip of the Sinis peninsula will agree that it doesn't get much better than this. The good location by the sea with sheltered harbours for almost every wind direction was not the only reason for the early settlement. The extremely fertile landscape with its shallow lakes, which are home to pink flamingos and plenty of fish, offers the best conditions for just about every conceivable type of fruit and vegetable and also for good wine, including "Vernaccia", which is reminiscent of sherry.
And the Sinis Peninsula has just as much to offer windsurfing fans as its culinary offerings - from flat water and freestyle spots to world-class waves, everything is on offer. Even among surfers, the surf spots around Capo Mannu now have a legendary reputation. Some compare Capo Mannu with Hookipa, both in terms of the waves and the entry point, which is peppered with sharp lava rocks. When I stood on the cape for the first time 25 years ago, I couldn't believe the perfection with which the mast-high waves turned the corner here. And some things don't change even after 25 years.
You can find the complete Spot Guide Sardinia West with these spot descriptions and wind information here HERE as PDF.
- Sa Rocca Tunda
- Capo Mannu
- Putzu Idu
- Funtana Meiga
- San Giovanni di Sinis
- Torre Grande North
- Torre Grande South
