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Heracles is said to have once defeated giants in battle, which he immediately threw into the sea. According to legend, the giants solidified into stone and formed the basis of the island of Mykonos.
Today, Mykonos is one of the most famous Cyclades islands - a dream in blue and white and known far and wide for its lively party scene. Design & boutique hotels, private villas and clubs are the norm. The rich, beautiful and party-hungry from all over the world meet here. Just the thing for a family like us, who like to get a good night's sleep by 10 p.m. at the latest and already feel cramped with more than two dozen people on the beach.
Mykonos is also rather quiet in the low season
So we prefer to arrive in mid-April and find an island that is no longer in deep slumber, but is just waking up from hibernation. The island is cloaked in lush greenery and colourful flower meadows as far as the eye can see - after an extremely rainy winter, the otherwise barren island is unusually beautiful. The green stone walls and dense meadows full of sheep are more reminiscent of a holiday in Ireland, but the white houses with their blue shutters in typical Cycladic style quickly bring you back to Greek reality.
Wherever you go, you set up, paint and repair. People are getting ready for the big show in summer. By the end of May at the latest, even the last bar will have slipped into its white dress. In Mykonos Town - the Chora - everything is ready except for a few brushstrokes - at least for daylight tourists. Nocturnal holidaymakers will not yet get their money's worth in the low season.
Mykonos fulfils all the Greek clichés
With its narrow, blue and white alleyways, the old town fulfils all the kitschy Greek clichés. In summer, it can get quite crowded here, especially when the pelican Pétros - the island's unofficial symbol and mascot - appears, posing skilfully in front of cameras and smartphones before picking up a treat in the restaurants.
But Mykonos is not all party and hustle and bustle. The windmills on the outskirts of the town are silent witnesses to the fact that there has always been a breeze here. For windsurfers, the party quickly shifts to the handful of spots that make Mykonos such a diverse destination. At the flat water spots in the south, you can cruise in shallow water, while less than 20 kilometres away, at the wave spot Ftelia, you can do the same as Heracles. Defeating giants is still possible here today.
The best windsurfing spots on Mykonos
1) Corfos
Korfos is located about five minutes south of the airport. The secluded bay boasts a long sandy beach and an unusually large car park. The standing area stretches out almost 100 metres and offers perfect conditions for beginners in light winds. The bay faces north, so the Meltemi wind blows onshore. Due to the funnel effect, it blows a few knots stronger here than in Ftelia, for example. The water remains quite smooth in north to north-easterly winds and is well suited for relaxed gliding and freestyling. Only in strong NNW winds do larger choppy and swell waves form, and then there can also be small shorebreaks. Tip: The entrance on the western side, near the first small chapel, is better. However, the small sandy beach here and its parking facilities are just enough for a handful of surfers.
If you fancy a spot of windsurfing sightseeing, head a kilometre to the windmills and "Little Venice" - exceptional ambience guaranteed! The kite station in Korfos also offers windsurfing equipment in minimal doses, but sees itself as a kite centre - in summer, kites dominate the picture downwind. However, there is also a sail repair service here.
2) Ftelia
With your own equipment, you can enjoy a great wave spot on the north coast of Mykonos - the wave here has a whopping 200 kilometres of run-up. The entry point is located on the western, left-hand side of the bay directly in front of the Ftelia Beach Club restaurant. Here you enter on sandy ground and are shielded from the waves. If you cross up a little from the entrance, you can jibe into powerful swells. Further upwind, the only thing to watch out for is a large rock in the centre of the bay that juts out of the water and cannot be overlooked. In principle, the surf is relatively gentle - even on big days, the waves crumble rather moderately and don't have as much power as you might expect.
The north wind blows onshore into the bay, so there are always plenty of backsides and jumps. Depending on whether the Meltemi has a westerly or easterly component, you are more likely to jump with wind from the left or right - but you should always luff up before jumping. If the Meltemi blows moderately, even wave climbers can have fun in the safe, sandy bay. From 20 knots upwards - the rule rather than the exception in the summer - waver are in for a treat. Logo- to mast-high sets are definitely possible here. Another "treat" at this spot is the Ftelia Beach Club, with excellent Mediterranean cuisine and a view of the bay. Sun loungers and parasols are available for hire at the club, while the rest of the long sandy beach remains "wild". You can stay close by here, e.g. at Villa Barbarossa or Hotel Ftelia Bay. The owners windsurf themselves and are often to be found on the water here.
3) Kalafati
The fact that Kalafati is the windsurfing hotspot of Mykonos is also due to the fact that the Meltemi usually blows most reliably here. Small sails are often used here due to local strengthening. The wind blows somewhat gusty and cross-offshore from the left for the first few metres. Pezi Huber's windsurfing station is a professional centre here. The small wind cover offers good conditions for beginners, especially in the morning when the Meltemi is still weak. If you're looking for a little chop, drop down towards the fishing village opposite. Two reefs - called "Sleeping Man" - protrude further out of the water or are just below the surface. These are marked with buoys in the summer months.
The first ten metres into the water lead over a partly overgrown rocky plateau. A small surf shop and a bar are also part of the set-up, as well as a small repair shop and a children's playground. Away from mass tourism and with shady trees, the bay is also an ideal place for families in summer. The centre has SUP boards and canoes available for windless days. On windy days, you can take your equipment to the wave spot Ftelia for a small extra charge. Accommodation close to the spot, restaurants and the fishing village within walking distance round off the great overall package.
4) Kalo Livadi
Strong southerly winds send official swells on their way to Mykonos, although this weather situation usually only occurs in the winter months. The best place to surf southerly gales is Kalo Livadi, on the south coast of the island. The magnificent, 500 metre wide sandy bay is open to the SSE and therefore catches waves perfectly. Even at wind force four, small surf rolls onto the beach here, but then the entry is still easy thanks to the sandy bottom. In southerly gales, however, the spot becomes very challenging and requires wave experience. With a full onshore wind, this spot is then primarily suitable for jumping and backsides turns, and less suitable for riding downwind. Due to the lack of windsurfing infrastructure, you are reliant on your own equipment.
Area information Mykonos
Journey
Mykonos has an airport and is served by direct flights from many Central European airports. Whether by hotel shuttle, hire car or taxi, the onward journey to your destination takes a maximum of half an hour. If you are travelling with your own equipment, you may be faced with the problem that the car hire company does not confirm roof racks, which is why we recommend bringing inflatable travel roof racks. In general, travelling by car is rather cramped in many places on Mykonos, which is why many tourists are on mopeds in summer.
The ferry connections from Athens are good, but motorhomes and Mykonos don't really go together. The few campsites, at least in high summer, are mainly occupied by low-budget party holidaymakers - peace and quiet and relaxation are different. Several surf tour operators have Mykonos in their programme, e.g. Sun & Fun, Surf & Action Company, Travelworld4you or Retter Surf.
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendation
Like all the islands in the Aegean, Mykonos is blown by the summer wind. Meltemi which is ultimately a balancing movement between an area of high pressure over the northern Mediterranean and a heat low over the Turkish mainland. On Mykonos, the Meltemi usually arrives as a northerly wind. Good days are also frequent in the low season, but it is most reliable and strongest between June and October. As a rule, the wind picks up during the course of the day and reaches its full strength in the afternoon, so you should always take small sails with you.
The average temperatures in May and October are still well above 20 degrees, and in summer the thermometer can climb to over 30 degrees - especially when the wind takes a break. Water temperatures of just under 26 degrees then only provide limited cooling - a shorty or short sleeve is sufficient in high summer, while a 4/3 long sleeve is ideal in the early and late season.
Living & Camping
As mentioned, the camping options are very limited and tend to be filled with party people in summer. The Ftelia and Kalafati spots are much more relaxed and, above all, close to the spot. Due to the short distances, families can enjoy an uncomplicated holiday here and even do without a car altogether - especially as there are shuttle buses to the town. You can find numerous accommodation offers at www.pezi-huber.com and the surf tour operators mentioned above. Here are a few examples:
Ftelia
- Villa Barbarossa (booking e.g. via Airbnb)
- Hotel Ftelia Bay
Kalafati
- Chaniotis Studio Estiades
- Villas Kalafati
- Hotel La Residence
- Hotel Anemoessa
Surfstation
At the top spot of Kalafati, Pezi Huber's well-equipped windsurfing centre is an ideal windsurfing base for arriving without your own equipment. The latest equipment is available, totalling around 100 boards and 140 rigs. SUP boards and kayaks can also be hired. The centre is open from 20 May to the end of September, and the small shop also sells spare parts for your own equipment. A sail repair service is available in Korfos at the kite centre.
Alternative programme
In the small capital of Mykonos, there are nice boutiques and a hot nightlife in high summer, not only along the beach promenade lined with bars, clubs and restaurants. Despite the masses of tourists who turn night into day here, the town has largely retained its original character.
Shady sides
The heat in midsummer can be exhausting in calm conditions - luckily the Meltemi almost always cools things down. At spots with onshore winds, e.g. in Ftelia, plastic rubbish is unfortunately part of everyday surfing. Avoiding bags in the supermarket is a small contribution that every tourist can/should make.
