By Judith Duller-Mayrhofer & Manuel Vogel
Life is easy at Logos Beach Village in Rhodes Theologos. Sleep in, stroll towards reception and enjoy a leisurely breakfast. As the thermals don't kick in until lunchtime, we have all the time in the world. The atmosphere is informal, the staff super friendly, the appetising buffet small but delicious. Fruit and vegetables are freshly sliced, eggs are prepared as required; that's all you need. Couples and groups sit under a shady pergola, while families prefer to spread out in the lounge area next to the pool and children's playground. There's no more relaxed way to start the day.
After the last cup of tea, we return to our accommodation. We stay in one of the thirteen lodges, which are scattered loosely across the regularly watered and therefore lush green lawn in a well-tended 10,000 square metre garden. It is somewhere between a tent and a log cabin, with natural colours and raw, untreated wood setting the tone inside. The style is clean, the furnishings functional. The bathroom and toilet are separate, airy mosquito nets hang over the beds and the kitchenette is well equipped. On the large terrace, you can choose between a seating area with a table and comfortable loungers, with a hammock dangling at the side. Pink-flowered oleander bushes delight the eye and also serve as a privacy screen. No wonder we feel at home here straight away.
The surf centre is located directly in front of it on the beach. Here, too, everything that water sports enthusiasts need is available. There is a hire and training station, a shed with lockable boxes where guests can store their own equipment, several compressors, a digital wind and weather display, freshwater showers for people and equipment, a beach bar and a chill-out zone. The latter is our favourite spot: in the late morning, we always spread out under a canopy on a thick mattress and look hopefully out over the water. When it starts to ripple, the scenery comes to life. Wings and kites are pumped up and placed gently on the long strips of carpet laid out on the beach, noses are creamed with sunscreen and harnesses are strapped on. The reliable Meltemi fair-weather wind usually blows sideshore and at a maximum of 20 knots - conditions that even beginners can cope with. Only when it blows more onshore (which is rare) is there a breaking wave, which can be a hurdle for the less experienced when setting off and coming ashore.
Good mix, good mood
We travelled to Theologos with our wingfoil boards. The wingers share an area with the windsurfers about 300 metres to the west. No one gets lost: all the staff at the centre keep a watchful eye on what's happening on the water during the day, there are specially manned observation posts and two rescue jet skis are on standby just in case. Reassuring to know, not just for beginners.
As the sun approaches the horizon, the shadows lengthen and the air and light soften, it's time to come back ashore. The station closes at 7.00 p.m. and before that it's time to pack up and pack away the equipment. The evenings are just as uncomplicated as the days. Three times a week, there are organised group activities that guests can join, such as a simple but delicious BBQ on the beach (two really good burgers for five euros!), a pasta party with live music or a trip to a typical taverna in the village of Theologos, which can be reached on foot in around twenty minutes. If you don't fancy a group activity, check out dinner on your own. There are several simple eateries in the immediate vicinity, all of which serve delicious food. Comparatively upmarket, but with great value for money, is Mariposa in the immediate neighbourhood, a family business in the best sense of the word, where the friendly landlords cook up creative dishes using fresh, regional produce. And if you miss the hustle and bustle of the city and the funky nightlife, you can take a bus or taxi to Rhodes; we definitely didn't feel like it.
The only annoying things at Logos Beach Village are the aircraft noise from the airport, which is only five kilometres away (but the transfer is short and inexpensive), and the noise from a neighbouring all-inclusive resort every evening - but all in all, nothing more than a small blemish in paradise. A paradise which, by the way, is to have a branch: Tobias Gottfried has bought a plot of land nearby on which he plans to open another resort in 2024.
Rhodes - general information for surfers
Arrival:
Rhodes is flown to directly, i.e. without a stopover in Athens. The flight time from Central Europe is around 2.5 hours. As always, it is essential to check the luggage conditions if you are planning to travel with your own equipment. A hire car costs around 30 euros/day - but thanks to accommodation close to the spot, you can do without it. The transfer from the airport to the northern spots (e.g. Theologos or Trianda) takes just 15 minutes - it's best to book the transfer directly with your accommodation. You should allow just under two hours for the journey to Prasonisi in the south of Rhodes.
Alternatively, you can also arrive by campervan - in which case the crossing with the Greek ferry from Piraeus or Rafina is obligatory. The crossing takes 14 to 18 hours and, depending on the season and size of the vehicle, can easily cost 350 euros each way for two people and a campervan. Information and bookings e.g. at www.goferry.de
Wind, weather and neoprene recommendation:
The Aegean is one of the windiest regions in Europe during the summer months. A heat low develops over the Turkish mainland as a result of the strong solar radiation, which draws in air from northern directions - creating the Meltemi. The fact that "meltemi" actually means "gentle breeze" seems to be a slight understatement in view of the wind statistics: Between May and October, it blows very reliably with gliding force (see Windfinder statistics), usually at 12-20 knots in the north - although really strong days can also occur.
Due to the local jet effect, it often whistles a little stronger in Prasonisi than at the spots further north. So if the Meltemi weakens in the north, it can be worth travelling south. What all the spots have in common is that the Meltemi usually blows weaker in the morning - even less experienced surfers can get their money's worth then. The wind picks up as the day progresses and reaches its peak in the late afternoon. The average temperature in May is already a pleasant 23 degrees, and in midsummer it is often blisteringly hot, at least when the Meltemi takes a break. Temperatures of 40 degrees in the shade are not uncommon, with water temperatures climbing to 26 degrees in August. In July/August shorties and lycra are sufficient, in the off-season you are well equipped with a 4/3 neo. Adequate sun protection is essential.
Living & Camping:
Spots such as Trianda, Ixia or Theologos are ideal for families - here the children can splash around in the pool protected from the wind while mum or dad glide over the crystal-clear water a few metres away. The range of accommodation is very diverse and covers everything from affordable self-catering apartments to luxurious all-in hotels right on the spot.
Many places offer childcare so that parents can even go on the water together. You can find a good overview on the following websites, for example:
- www.surfandkitetheologos.com
- www.procenter-rhodos.com
The surf tour operators Wingreisen.com and Sun & Fun also have all the well-known Rhodes spots in their programme, so it's definitely worth checking the sites when looking for accommodation. At the top spot of Prasonisi, on the other hand, the accommodation on offer is limited; the town basically consists of a few simple hotels, two tavernas and a supermarket - that's it. The small "surfers' market" is a trendy meeting place and often an unofficial party zone, so it can get loud here at night. If you prefer things quieter, you can stay a few kilometres away, for example at the Atrium Prestige Thalasso Spa Resort, and get to the spot by hire car.
On Rhodes, as on many Greek islands, there are unfortunately no official campsites. People have been wild camping in Prasonisi for many years. In recent summers, however, there have been numerous police operations and fines of up to 300 euros, as wild camping is prohibited in Greece.
Surf stations:
There are well-equipped surf centres at all the well-known spots, so you can easily arrive without your own equipment.
Ixia:
Trianda:
Theologos:
Prasonisi:
Alternative programme:
The wonderful old town of Rhodes Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988, with its numerous cultural monuments, museums, dreamy alleyways and diverse nightlife, is well worth a visit. The white old town of Lindos with its acropolis is also a popular (and often blisteringly hot) excursion destination. You can cool off in the numerous tavernas and clubs. Nature lovers will get their money's worth on hikes in the green "Valley of the Butterflies" in the north of the island or in the mountainous hinterland.
Downsides:
The consequences of the bag craze are unfortunately also evident here, rubbish is a constant downer at the spots with onshore winds (e.g. Prasonisi). Please do your bit and avoid using plastic bags in the supermarket! The heat in summer can be intense when the Meltemi takes a break - fortunately this doesn't happen that often.
Spot Guide Rhodes - the spots
Ixia is the northernmost spot on Rhodes. The wind blows a little weaker here than in Theologos or Trianda and sometimes sets in a little later, which is another reason why beginners will find good learning conditions, especially in the morning. Meltemi from the west blows sideonshore from the left and because the wind in Ixia comes a little more onshore to the 20 to 30 metre wide pebble beach, a small shorebreak forms in the starting area if the wind is strong enough, but this is relatively easy to overcome. Good surfers can try their hand further out in swell waves with wind from the left. The waves further out can be up to two metres high in strong winds, but are generally harmless and round, so surfing experience is not necessary on moderate days. If you are on Rhodes in spring or autumn, you may be lucky enough to catch a strong Tramontana - if it blows very northerly, it even shovels some surf onto the beach. As there are also surf centres at the spot and a full range of accommodation options within walking distance, Ixia is also ideal for families and anyone travelling with non-surfing companions. The only drawback is that the road here runs directly behind the beach.
2) Trianda
The pebble beach of Trianda, also known as Ialysos, is one of the most popular surfing beaches in Greece. The Meltemi blows sideshore from the left, and here too it is usually only moderately windy in the morning, making it ideal for intermediates. The fact that the entry area is quite shallow, resulting in a small standing area, also favours less experienced surfers. Beginners will get their money's worth at the windmill station of the Rhodes Pro Centre, located about 500 metres downwind of the other two centres, as the wind comes in less strongly there on strong days. In the afternoon, the Meltemi regularly picks up a few shovels and Trianda benefits from a jet effect between Rhodes and Turkey, which are correspondingly close to each other here. This is why the wind in the afternoon is often sufficient for smaller sails and wings, 25 knots are not uncommon. If you believe the stories of the station manager, a local thermal from Monte Smith also provides a boost, so that a forecast of eight to ten knots can also mean foil and planing winds.
As a rule, the water - apart from the usual choppy waves - remains quite smooth in Trianda, and in strong winds there are also swells further out. Surfing experience is not necessary at this spot. Kitesurfing is prohibited on the rather narrow pebble beach, which makes things more relaxed for windsurfing. Trianda is unbeatable above all due to its infrastructure: hotels and accommodation in all price categories, bars, restaurants and nightlife can be found in the immediate vicinity of the spot, as well as several surf centres. As Trianda can also be reached quickly from the airport, eliminating long transfer times, there is hardly anything better for families.
3) Theologos
The spot in Theologos is quite similar to Trianda, although the swell waves can be a little steeper. In light winds, the water remains nice and smooth, apart from the usual small choppy waves. The wind comes side- to sideonshore from the left and is strongest in the afternoon. As Theologos is a little less well-known than Trianda, there is significantly more space on the water here and the charm of the spot and the village is more informal compared to Trianda and Ixia.
In contrast to Trianda, kitesurfing is permitted here, but thanks to a sensible spatial separation on the water, there are hardly any problems. As the beach slopes a little steeper here, the standing area is limited to a narrow strip close to the shore. When the meltemi is strong, the wave starts to break moderately on the sandbank in front - harmless but always suitable for a few good jumps. Behind it, you'll find the typical round swell that you can also find at other spots on Rhodes. Theologos is also good when Tramontana pushes moderate surf waves onto the beach with a northerly influence, then you can enjoy jumping fun with a diagonal onshore wind from the right. Unfortunately, this usually only happens in spring and autumn.
Even if the accommodation options are not quite as plentiful as in Trianda, there are still many family-friendly accommodation options in Theologos within walking distance of the station and spot, making a hire car superfluous. There is also more than enough infrastructure such as tavernas, cafés and supermarkets - and plenty of flair.
4) Fanes
Fanes is the southernmost spot on the west coast and boasts a 500 metre long sandy beach. As with all west coast spots, the Meltemi blows from the left and is weakest here, which is not necessarily a disadvantage, especially during the "strong" months of July and August. There is also a larger standing area here, which also appeals to the many kitesurfers. The supply of equipment proved to be difficult during our visit, so it is better to bring your own. In the winter months, Tramontana from the north is a nice surf spot with a cross onshore wind from the right.
5) Prasonisi
The spot in the south on the Prasonisi peninsula is one of the best all-round spots in Greece. In contrast to the spots in the north, the water here is perfectly flat, as the Meltemi blows unhindered over the shallow sandbank that connects Rhodes and Prasonisi. This is the ideal place to practise your manoeuvres. Due to the local jet effect, the Meltemi often whistles a little stronger here than at the northern spots, so the journey south can be worthwhile, especially in phases with light winds. On the windward side of the headland, less than 200 metres from the shallow water slope, you can enjoy a real surf wave - with a fairly onshore wind. Drifting is impossible here and with moderate meltemi, even surf beginners will find their way around. On fat days, the wave can reach logohigh and is very powerful, then the windward spot mutates into a playground for cracks. However, getting out here with foils is no easy task. Word has got around about the impressive spot quality with well-equipped centres, and in high summer it can be very crowded. All kinds of seaweed and plastic often collects on the windward side, which can spoil the fun of the waves. The few accommodations directly at the spot are quite basic; those looking for upscale comfort and offers for families should stay somewhere else. Nevertheless, Prasonisi offers great surfing flair with top conditions and is a "must see" on any trip to Rhodes.
