Spots in this article:
No, this is not an official call to disobey Crete's top spot Palekastro! Those who come to the island without their own equipment and want to take it easy will continue to find their happiness in the east of the island, at Kouremenos Beach, in the form of impressive wind statistics, beautiful flat water and, above all, well-equipped surf centres. But if you are mobile, you can still discover real secret spots in an area half the size of Schleswig-Holstein, even during the holiday season.
Chris Sammer and Woife Strasser, absolute experts on Crete, reveal the top 10 best spots away from Palekastro so that you don't have to "take your chances" in the summer heat. Included are numerous flat water alternatives for the summer months as well as thermal spots that work when the reliable Meltemi fails to materialise, but also impressive spots for wave gourmets that come to life especially in the transition period and whose quality you would certainly not have expected in the Aegean.
So a little disobedience on your next trip to Crete won't do any harm - unofficially, of course.
Windsurfing spots on Crete
10 Kalami
If the Meltemi fails to materialise, you have two options: Either to languish in the summer heat, or to pack your car, turn up the air conditioning and head to the north-west of the island. Coming from Rethymno, turn off towards Kalami around 15 kilometres before Chania and park on a pebble beach to the west of the small stone pier, where there are also toilets, a kiosk and showers. And why all this? Because when there is no Meltemi, a westerly current normally develops, which increases to twelve to 20 knots here in Souda Bay due to thermal influences. Normally. Depending on the wind strength, there's flat water or chop of up to 1.5 metres - quite fun, but nothing out of the ordinary. If there is no westerly current, there is nothing going on here apart from a nice atmosphere. Bottom line: 10th place.
9 Elafonisi
The lagoons of Elafonisi at the extreme south-western tip of Crete are a dream - but even the crowds of tourists who have nothing to do with windsurfing know that. Fortunately, even in summer there is plenty of space on the water and an unobstructed view of the oil sardines on the beach to windward - only occasionally does a blown-away rubber animal get in the way of your enjoyable freeriding or tricks. Meltemi from the north-east is less ideal here because it is gusty. However, when the summer wind comes from the north, it blows freely and constantly across the lagoon and conjures up the best flat water conditions. In the summer months, you can usually get out on the water several times a week, and the whole family should feel at home at the spot, even when not windsurfing. However, the adventure factor and exclusivity largely fall by the wayside, ranking 8th in the end.
8 Paleochora
Located far to the south-west, Paleochora is rarely an issue in summer, as the Meltemi whistles here day in, day out, but is also offshore and gusty. It only gets interesting when there is a westerly current; thermally strengthened, the spot sometimes provides surfable conditions with twelve to 20 knots when there is nowhere else to go. Westerly winds come sideonshore from the right, bump & jump conditions with one metre waves are then the rule. When strong lows blow through from the west in the winter months, Paleochora mutates into a cream wave spot that can provide fantastic conditions for riding downwind. The south-east can also be good for waveriders, with wind from the left. Conclusion: A great alternative spot with potential, it's just a shame that Paleochora doesn't work very often with waves - so it's not worth more than 9th place.
7 Elounta
This largely unknown lagoon is located around 20 kilometres north of Agios Nikolaos. It is formed by the offshore island of Spinalonga and the fortress island of Kalidon and is worth a visit when the Meltemi wind blows from NW to W. The wind comes over a mountain range, accelerates and blows diagonally onshore on the causeway to the island of Spinalonga, more sideshore but gustier in the west. There is flat water on site with some choppy conditions - so far, so average. The highlight: with forecasts of ten to twelve knots from the NW and W, a thermal develops that packs on a few knots. When the Meltemi is strong, you can surf on the leeward side of the dam in absolutely flat water with offshore winds - great! However, because Elounta is a lively Greek town with all the necessary infrastructure, it doesn't necessarily feel like an adventure spot. Tip: The stiffado in the Taverna Paradisos at the entrance to the village is well worth the trip. In calm weather, it's worth taking a boat trip to the fortress island of Kalidon, where Crete's lepers lived until 1954.
6 Istro
Not far south of Agios Nikolaos, the district capital of East Crete, lies Istro, also known as Kalo Chorio, a spot that definitely offers wave potential and is divided into two bays: Karavostasi Beach (coarse pebbles) and Agios Panteleimon Beach (pebbles/sand), both beach sections are only separated from each other by a rocky outcrop and are easily accessible from the main road. The spot works with Meltemi from the N and NNW, which blows almost onshore and has waves of up to two metres in summer, depending on the wind strength. The wave usually moves with the wind direction, but you can still jump quite well here. There are plenty of parking spaces and shade, and there is no shortage of supermarkets and tavernas. From autumn to spring, when the northern storms arrive, the waves can be as high as a mast and the shorebreak is a real treat.
5 Balos
The lagoon at the north-western end of Crete is like a picture - emerald green water, white sand and open to wind directions from south to west to north make Balos look like the promised land. The lagoon itself is ankle- to chest-deep at most, and outside you can cruise through the turquoise water with long fins and enjoy the breathtaking ambience. This would actually be the top spot in Crete - if it weren't for the nightmarish journey! You can either park at the Balos Beach car park and drag your stuff 40 minutes down the mountain to the lagoon, or you can join one of the boat tourists who regularly set off here from Kissamos or Falasarna/Captain Nicolas on a daily basis.
4 Tenda
Not far from the surfing stronghold of Palekastro, Tenda is a spot that combines the finest flat water with acceptable waves - a combination that easily puts Tenda in the top 5 of the rankings. At Meltemi, downwind of the entrance to the military area, there is a small but excellent manoeuvring and freestyle slope with constant wind, only the entry over the rocks is a little tricky. On the windward side, there are ramps up to 1.5 metres high if the wind is strong enough - the manoeuvre lab and jump area are just a stone's throw away from each other here. However, the adventure factor is reduced here - the amount of plastic bags floating around on the wave side is particularly "adventurous". Tip: To relax after the session, take a detour to the nearby Vai palm beach!
3 Faneromeni
Even the approach via a bumpy track from Papadiokampos is a small foretaste of the tough conditions that await you in strong Meltemi winds from the NW: a rocky entry, current, sometimes logo-high and powerful waves and the lack of an exit in an emergency make surfing here a real adventure. However, the quality of the waves is top-notch and the nickname "Greek Pozo" probably refers to the rocky surroundings rather than the quality of the spot. With sideshore winds from the left, Faneromeni is equally suitable for jumping and riding - a worthy representative on the podium.
2 Xerokampos
When the usual Meltemi spots are languishing in the doldrums, it's worth taking a ride to the beautiful spot of Xerokampos on the south-east coast of Crete. A light current from the SW or W is regularly thermally strengthened to 20 knots+ here, the conditions at the spot are a feast for heating, practising manoeuvres or tricks - and let's be honest: knowing that there's nowhere else to go makes it all the nicer! You rarely have to share the turquoise playground, but the beautiful beach is definitely visited by tourists in high summer. There's only one thing you don't need in Xerokampos: Meltemi! It blows abnormally strong and fully offshore here. In the winter months, when storms roll in from the south-west, Xerokampos mutates into a top wave spot with sideshore winds from the right and great conditions for jumping and riding - and then you have the beach all to yourself.
1 Phalasarna
The title goes to a combination spot at the north-western end of Crete, Phalasarna is about 50 kilometres from Chania. On the long sandy beach, Meltemi comes in from N to NE diagonally offshore to sideshore from the right, then you can practise your manoeuvres in shallow water and small chop. There is also a small but perfect shallow water and freestyle spot three kilometres south of the main beach, at the small harbour in front of the "Captain Nicolas" taverna. The entrance here is via a mini sandy beach, and the sea remains wonderfully flat even in strong winds thanks to the rock formations in front of it. The wind blows from the right and is more constant than at Phalasarna Beach. And best of all: as the wind comes over the high mountain range, it is accelerated, which means that the spot works even when the forecast is for seven to ten knots from the NE. But there's another reason why Phalasarna wins: if you catch a day with strong winds from SW to SE, which tends to happen in the winter months, wavecracks can enjoy what is perhaps the best wave in Greece: epic sideshore to sideoffshore winds from the left and crashing waves make you quickly forget that it's "only" the Aegean where you're surfing.
This spot guide first appeared in surf 6/2018
