Welcome to the Sh'ties!" Since this French cinema hit at the latest, many people have probably revised their image of the northerners of France. Sure, they may be a bit of a loner, the spoken dialect "Ch'ti" presents even native French people with sometimes unsolvable problems and the Sch'tis only get a pitying shake of the head from their fellow countrymen for the weather.
But as in the film, on closer inspection everything turns out to be half as bad and quite endearing. This is especially true when windsurfers discover the region between Boulogne and the border with Belgium. Because here, in the narrowest part of the English Channel, the clouds are driven across the land by the constant wind, making the sea sometimes deep blue, sometimes gloomy and sometimes emerald green, the region has earned the nickname Cote d'Opale - Opal Coast.
The Opal Coast juts out like a spike into the English Channel, which is only just over 30 kilometres wide at Calais. Every day, 400 to 500 ships pass through the bottleneck between Great Britain and the European continent. On the one hand, the narrow passage means that winds from westerly and north-easterly directions are channelled and strengthened - depending on the season, the proportion of days with at least four Beaufort winds fluctuates between 40 and 80 percent. On the other hand, the curved coastline means that you can find spots with waves, bump & jump or even flat water for many wind directions without having to travel long distances.
Given the excellent conditions between Dunkerque and Boulogne, it is not surprising that Jules Denel, an opal local, has made it into the top group of the PWA World Cup. If you ever get the chance to marvel at him at his home spot of Wissant or at one of the other spots in the region, you shouldn't miss it.
General information:
Arrival: The region can be reached quickly and easily via a well-developed network of motorways. You should allow a good eight hours from Hamburg and just under five hours from Cologne.
Living & Camping: The fact that the south of the country is much more popular with the French than the far north is noticeable in that, apart from the summer holidays, things are usually much more relaxed here. Between Boulogne and Dunkerque, there are numerous holiday homes, hotels and apartments that are easy to find online via the usual booking portals. Wild camping is definitely not a good idea, not only in the summer season, as heavy fines are imposed. However, thanks to numerous pitches and campsites, the legal option is possible without any problems. Unlike here, the campsites themselves often do not have their own website and can be found via the local authority websites. Here is a selection of campsites in the immediate vicinity of the beach:
Boulogne/Wimereux: www.ville-wimereux.fr
Wissant: www.ville-wissant.fr
Sangatte: Camping Les Mottes Noires; Rue Pierre Dupuy (without website)
Bleriot: http://camping-du-fort-lapin.fr
Petit-Fort-Philippe: www.camping-des-dunes.com
Dunkerque: www.campingdelalicorne.com/en /
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendations: The Strait of Dover lies entirely within the catchment area of Atlantic low-pressure systems, resulting in moderate summers and mild winters. The crosswind rate is high all year round and fluctuates between 40 and 80 per cent. Low pressure systems from the west move from the Atlantic up to the North Sea with fine regularity, especially between September and May - they often bring wind for the smallest sails, but also changeable weather. Because winds from the southwest are channelled in the narrow section between France and Great Britain and there is also a chop effect, it usually blows much stronger on the northern Opal Coast than elsewhere. A long 4/3 or 5/3 neo is also recommended in the summer months. Because the Opal Coast gets a bit of the warm Gulf Stream, it rarely gets extremely cold here, even in winter. For hard-core surfers, the season doesn't even have to end - provided they have winter neos and shoes. The region around Wissant is also a tip in phases with north-easterly winds - this is often the case between April and July in particular. The strait then also has a strengthening effect. However, the usual weather services usually take the local conditions into account very well.
Waves, currents & tides: The tidal range along the coasts here is massive, six to seven metres! This sometimes means a long walk to the water's edge at low tide, but also strong currents at some spots. Especially when the wind and tidal current are working in the same direction, it can be difficult, and the term "walking upwind" is often to be understood literally. Things get easier when the wind and tidal current work in opposite directions. With a south-westerly wind, the phase after high tide is recommended, with the water running out slowly, whereas with a north-easterly wind, the period after low tide is recommended. Due to the location in the channel, large swells from the Atlantic are generally blocked, but particularly in strong south-westerly winds, big knockers can also make it to the coast. Some experience in the waves is required, especially due to the current, but the wide, gently sloping sandy beaches at many spots are definitely suitable for intermediates.
Surf stations: The Cote d'Opale is primarily a tip with your own equipment, as you sometimes have to change spots depending on the wind direction and tides. There are hardly any large rental centres, and in the "Clube Nautiques" the offer is generally limited to beginner and intermediate courses and the corresponding equipment. If that's what you're looking for, you'll find it here:
Boulogne: www.ycb.fr
Wimereux: www.club-nautique-wimereux.com
Sangatte: http://calais-voile.fr
Petit-Fort-Philippe: www.gravelines-basenautique.fr
Dunkerque: www.dunkerqueyachtingclub.fr
Shops: If things get rough again, you can find replacement material here:
Boulogne: www.airwave-shop.com
Wissant: http://onelife-surfshop.com
Alternative programme: With its impressive stretches of coastline and towns, the Cote d'Opale offers plenty to do even on calm days. With a SUP board or surfer in tow, there is often still plenty of water time to be had on the days after the lows have passed. You can go biking around Cape Le Gris Nez or visit the Musée du Mur de l'Atlantique to gain an insight into the turbulent history of the Cote d'Opale during the Second World War. A visit to the Nausicaá Aquarium in Boulogne is definitely worthwhile as a family trip and the city centre of Calais is also well worth a visit.
Downsides: During periods of low pressure, the current can become very strong and, in combination with occasional rainfall and cool temperatures, "fair-weather surfers" are not necessarily at the destination of their dreams here. In the larger towns of Calais or Dunkerque - as elsewhere - you should not leave any valuables in your car.
Cote d`Opale - the best windsurfing spots at a glance
1 Boulogne
Boulogne is located on the west side of the Cote d`Opale, the spot can be found at the northern end of the town, near the Nausicaá Aquarium. The massive jetties in front of the harbour block out larger waves, making it a good place to practice even on stormy days and for freeriders and wave beginners. Entry is via a gently sloping sandy beach with a larger standing area, and the current is more moderate than at other spots. The spot is worth a trip in wind directions from south-west (sideshore) to north-west (onshore). Even at the northern exit of the basin, the wave rarely gets higher than waist-high, breaks very moderately, but still allows for nice jumps and wave rides. The south-westerly wind in particular blows noticeably lighter here than further north in Wissant or Calais, which can also be an advantage on stormy days. On light wind days, Boulogne is also a good spot for freeriding or trick riding due to its sheltered location. The only restriction: at low tide you have to look for the water with binoculars.
2 Wimereux
The beautiful village of Wimereux deserves some attention for many reasons. The colourful facades of the houses along the charming beach promenade attract numerous tourists, while the spot with its great waves attracts windsurfers. With strong south to south-westerly winds, Wimereux makes the hearts of all experienced wave surfers beat faster. The starting point is on the southern part of the promenade, near the Club Nautique. The south wind blows sideshore from the left and is perfect for riding the waves, while the fattest waves hit the sandy beach in the south-west - perfect for jumping. Then they are even significantly higher than in Wissant, but don't break quite as powerfully over the sandbanks. The time around low tide is best, then the individual stone slabs upwind are also clearly visible and do not interfere with the surf zone. At high tide, the surf zone reaches right up to the stone promenade - windsurfing then becomes a risky endeavour. With swell from the west and south-east, there can also be clean down-the-line conditions. When the wind shifts to the north, the conditions are noticeably more moderate. With wind from the right, the waves rarely get higher than head-high and with a north-easterly wind, the wave playground turns into a fine flat water spot to heat up. There are numerous cafés and restaurants along the promenade.Local tip: At high tide and with a south to south-easterly wind, it is also worth making a detour to Ambleteuse, just a few kilometres to the north. Powerful breakers hit the beach directly at Fort Mahon - challenging, but good!
3 Wissant
Picturesquely nestled between Cap Gris-Nez in the south-west and Cap Banc-Nez in the north-east lies Wissant - one of the best and most popular wave spots in France. The long sandy bay is shared with many kiters and windsurfers, but there is still plenty of space on the water here. The best starting point is at the north-eastern end of the village, where there is the best chance of finding a parking space and you can still get into the water at high tide, while the beach in front of the paved promenade is then flooded. A south-westerly wind is ideal, as it blows sideshore and quickly brings head-high surf, or even mast-high surf during storms. When large waves come together with rising water and a westerly wind, the current becomes brutal - over ten knots (!) have already been measured here. On moderate days, however, you can surf at any tide and ride to your heart's content or shoot yourself into orbit over the ramps. SSW winds are gusty, but can offer epic side-off conditions. Things are more relaxed at the spot with NE winds, the waves then remain more moderate, and in terms of the current, the rising water is more relaxed.
4 Sangatte
If things get too wild in Wissant during a south-westerly storm, it's worth making a detour to the small village of Sangatte not far to the north-east. The waves here are much smaller and more moderate and the current is noticeable, but less strong. On days with only light winds, the Cape effect is at its strongest here; in Sangatte it always blows a few knots stronger than anywhere else in the south-west (sideshore from the left) or north-east (sideshore from the right). There is an entry point directly in front of the boulangerie, where the best waves run, but parking is difficult. It is easier to park at the entrance to the village. At low to medium tide, the spot is also suitable for less experienced surfers. The waves improve at high tide, but the numerous piles on the beach are then washed over and can become a dangerous obstacle. The ONE wind is also easy to ride here.
5 Bleriot
The north-facing stretch of beach to the west of the town of Calais is easy to find and easily accessible thanks to a large car park. Bleriot works in a large wind window from south-west to north to east and is a tip in westerly conditions, especially if the wind in Wissant or Sangatte is too onshore. South-westerly winds blow diagonally offshore and are therefore gusty, but somewhat weaker than in Sangatte. WSW to W winds are ideal. Wave fans can also have a lot of fun here, but compared to Wissant, the wave height and current remain comparatively moderate. In spring, you can often get really good wave sessions here with ONE or NE winds. ONO comes sideshore from the right and delivers the best waves you can get on the Cote d'Opale with this wind direction. You should get in a little further to the right, downwind of the ferry harbour pier. This brings us to the only criticism of the spot: You should keep an eye on the shipping traffic.
6 Bleriot - Base de Voile
Less than 500 metres from the wild coast is the lake of the Yacht Club Calais, a good flat water alternative. The size of the basin is very manageable, but with westerly and easterly wind directions it is big enough to get your fins glowing, hone your manoeuvres or take a course at the local surf school run by Tom Souville. You can park on the northern shore behind the yacht club. You have to pay to use the site, but in return you can use the entire infrastructure including showers, changing rooms and car park.
7 Petit-Fort-Philippe
The spot is also known as "Gravelines" and operates in a large wind window from south-west to east-north-east. You can get in east of the dam at the lighthouse and a large, sandy area is flooded around three hours before to three hours after high tide, creating a huge standing area where you can practise safely at any time. So it's no wonder that a water sports centre has also set up shop here. Even in strong winds, there are still small chops that are easy to master, even for intermediates. The only risk is having to take a long walk back to the beach with the equipment when the water runs out. The fact that there is a large nuclear power station behind the spot can be accepted in view of the great spot conditions. In NE winds, you can also switch to the west side of the estuary.
8 Dunkerque - Dique
If you like a mixture of industrial ambience and dune landscape, you can find it at the "Dique", the pier that shields the town's harbour from the waves of the sea. You can park on the Route de la Digue du Braek, from where you can see the harbour on the south side and the sea on the north side. It is rideable here with freeride or slalom equipment even in slightly offshore SW winds, but WSW to WNW winds are ideal. This then blows sideshore to sideonshore from the left, but somewhat weaker than at spots such as Sangatte or Bleriot, and shovels moderate swell onto the beach. As a rule, the conditions remain bump and jump, with surf only developing when the westerly wind is firing from all cylinders. At high tide, getting out over the slippery stones is tricky, as the water then reaches right up to the dyke.
