Spot guide South of FranceThe best windsurfing spots from Perpignan to Montpellier

Jean Souville

 · 14.10.2022

Spot guide South of France: The best windsurfing spots from Perpignan to MontpellierPhoto: Jean Souville
South of France: 18 windsurfing spots from Perpignan to Montpellier
The south of France - hardly any other region is blessed with more windsurfing spots. And hardly anyone knows the area as well as local and photographer Jean Souville. In the first part of our big guide, he reveals the gems of the spots between Perpignan and Montpellier.

It is impossible to write this article without saying a few words about the boss of this region: From the border with Spain to the east of the Languedoc-Roussillon region, it does everything - the weather, it cleans the air and the sea, it makes electricity and windsurfers happy. The Tramontana is indispensable here, the region would not be the same without it.

We present these windsurfing spots in the south of France in this article:

The statistics for the Languedoc-Roussillon region over the last 25 years show an average of 220 Tramontana days per year with more than 30 knots, plus the thermal southerly winds in summer. If you're a good wind chaser, you'll find a spot with a gliding wind almost every day. The "fanas du windsurf" in the person of Annie and Andre Fouarge show how it's done: both are well over 60 years old, have lived on the Etang de Leucate for 18 years and are becoming more and more surf-crazy with each new year of life. Last year, Annie went windsurfing 300 days. She missed ten days because she was injured. It's far more likely to spend a day on the beach here because it's too windy than because there's no wind.

Force twelve - that's a hurricane elsewhere, here it's one of many strong days. Getting out of the car here is sometimes a mission, and with a caravan or motorhome it can be uncomfortable or even dangerous. But if you know your way around and follow my tips, you'll always find a surfable spot.

Click through the best surf spots in the south of France:

Grandiose scenery, pithy conditions - this tantalising combination is not only available at the Etang de Bages.
Photo: Jean Souville

General information about the surf trip to the south of France

Journey

By car, you can travel via a well-developed motorway network (1200 kilometres from Munich and Cologne). The toll is quite steep, you should budget around five euros for 100 kilometres.

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Jean's tip: Many low-cost flights from various German airports fly to Perpignan - if you are planning a spontaneous trip, you should definitely check the offers!

Wind, weather & neoprene recommendation

The Tramontana originates from the cold altitudes of the nearby Pyrenees and usually blows from the north-west. It blows strongest and most frequently from September to April, when it is often gale force. A small sail and thick wetsuit as well as shoes should definitely be in your luggage! But there can also be strong (and cool) days in summer, but a 4/3 neo will easily suffice. Classic Tramontana winds are strongest in the area around Port La-Nouvelle. When the wind blows more northerly, it is strongest near Argeles, while more westerly directions are strongest near Palavas. The wind blows offshore at many spots, so you shouldn't go out on the water alone and underestimate the conditions, especially in the winter and transitional period - the nearest piece of land is Tunisia. The often shallow lakes (French: etang) are safer and perfect for intermediates. You should always take a seaweed fin with you! In the summer months, there are also some days with stronger thermal winds from the east or south-east (Marin).

Shafts

Waves are rather sporadic at Tramontana and are comparable to Pozo on Gran Canaria. Rare southerly or south-easterly winds also build up high waves, if the wind then turns towards Tramontana, there can be the finest side-offshore conditions for a few hours.

Living & Camping

There are countless possibilities for both options, provided you are not travelling in July or August. That's when the whole of France is on holiday at the same time, and without advance booking and a big wallet, there's hardly anything you can do. The early and late seasons are much cheaper. In France, it is quite common to enquire about available rooms at the tourist office; many landlords advertise their capacities there, even in times of the internet. In the low season, wild camping is tolerated in many places, but in the high season there are strict charges! There are height restrictions of 1.90 metres on many beaches.

Surf tip: The Camping Cheque app also provides an overview of the numerous campsites.

Surf schools and surf shops

The region is also well developed in this respect. However, the prices for hire equipment are usually high in comparison - 25-30 euros/hour is steep.

Security

Unfortunately, we can't leave this topic out; the south of France can be a hot spot. Particularly in the high season, you should avoid leaving valuables in the car and show this by having a clear view into the car, as it is often broken into "on suspicion". In the cities, guarded car parks are recommended - but even this is no guarantee.

And what else?

Cities such as Montpellier are worth a visit and well worth travelling to when the weather is calm. The caves of Trabuc and Clamouse are also not to be missed.

The best surf spots in the south of France

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1) Argeles

On days with a slightly more northerly aspect and lots of wind, it's like Pozo on Gran Canaria here at Plage Racou and Plage Argeles - a small but jumpable wind wave and a strong sideonshore wind from the left. The locals often surf off the beautiful village of Collioure to catch bigger chops for jumping, but it's difficult to get into the water there due to the many rocks. There are a few waves with wind from the right when there is a rare southerly wind. This often blows strongly here when ten knots are blowing on the rest of the coast. Sometimes there is some shorebreak on the beautiful sandy beach.

2) Saint-Cyprien

The conditions are similar to those in Argeles, except that the wind is normally better and the waves are somewhat smaller. In strong northerly winds, you can still find moderate wave conditions with wind from the left at the northern end of the village. Thanks to a sandy beach and plenty of space, wave beginners can also have fun here and you can park directly on the beach. When the wind blows from the south-east, the waves here are also official, but the shore break makes it difficult to get out.

3) Sainte-Marie

At Tramontana, this spot at Canet Plage is better left out because the buildings on the shore make the wind too gusty. With southeasterly winds, however, you can experience good days here with powerful waves and a diagonal onshore wind from the right - but also a robust shorebreak.

4) La Franqui

The Tramontana is the first to strike here, often blowing strongly, almost offshore and providing smooth flat water for heating. In a northerly direction, there are also a few ramps for jumping. There are hotels and restaurants in the immediate vicinity and you can park directly at the spot. There are also decent waves in a south-easterly direction, and when the wind turns to Tramontana, perfect down-the-line conditions await for a few hours!

Jean's tip: Go out for dinner at Le Bleu and Le Buzz in La Franqui!

5) Les Coussoules/Le Rouët

Similar to La Franqui, Tramontana provides perfect flat water for speeding and tricks, the wind blows a little more offshore in the north-west and is often much stronger than on the inland lakes. This spot is also rideable in south-easterly winds and waves, but the angle is slightly better in La Franqui. The approach is a little tricky - coming from the south, take the D709 past the Etang de la Palme and then turn right at the salt pans onto the wide sandy beach. Officials are currently considering banning car access to the beach, but a final decision has yet to be made.

6) Etang de Leucate

This is the heart of the Languedoc-Roussillon windsurfing region - the saltwater lake of Leucate offers several spots where you can work on your manoeuvres safely and mostly in shallow water. Only the seaweed can be a nuisance, so as on most lakes, you should take a suitable fin with you! In the very north of the lake is the spot Le Goulet (a), where there is a campsite directly at the spot, some standing areas and the Wesh Centre with the latest equipment from Naish as well as a bar. Even with hack, the water here is still smooth and there are a few stones in the water. The neighbouring bay Les Pecheurs (b) is calmer, the water is deeper and the chop is slightly bigger. The Fun Club surf school is located here. The Eole spot is bordered by a sandbank and is therefore somewhat smaller, but is particularly shallow and safe and a top tip for intermediates. You can also get out on the water here in an easterly wind. The three-kilometre-long Parc a Huitre (c), located on the road, is also known for its large standing area, where there are several entry points. The wind blows onshore here, so drifting is impossible. In La Coudalere (d) at the southern end of the lake, a few waves even build up for jumping when the Tramontana is strong and onshore here. Just be careful of the oyster beds in the centre of the lake!

Local tip: Pizzeria Porto Fino/Leucate.

7) Etang de la Palme

Smaller than the lake in Leucate and heavily frequented by kitesurfers, this shallow lake is still worth a visit. A dream for climbers! If the Tramontana blows for a long time and pushes the water out or if there is no rainfall for a long time, it can become quite shallow over the sandbanks.

8) Port-La-Nouvelle

There is always a lot going on here - this is mainly due to the fact that the Tramontana usually starts here first and lasts the longest. The spot conditions also contribute to this with perfect flat water for speed, manoeuvres and freestyle. Even with 30 knots of wind, there are no waves to get in the way of your manoeuvres here, which you can do directly downwind of the sandy beach! The only problem at the moment is access to the spot - previously you could drive directly onto the beach, but this has now been banned by the authorities. You now have to park about 500 metres from the water, which is why some surfers now prefer to go to Les Coussoules. In south-easterly winds, official but chaotic waves hit the beach, with the wind blowing diagonally onshore from the right. Entry to windward of the harbour pier.

9) Gruissan

The spot of the world-famous Defi, the largest windsurfing regatta in the world. Every year, 1000 surfers race here at the same time. The wind is still a little gusty in front of the chalets, but further south the wind becomes more constant and you can speed along the endless sandy beach at full throttle for kilometres and practise manoeuvres. Overall, the Tramontana is somewhat lighter here than in Port-La-Nouvelle, which is often an advantage. The infrastructure is perfect: windsurfing centres, shops, campsites, showers, toilets and restaurants - you can make do here. Winds from the east shovel nice waves onto the beach, and wave riders have fun on the left side of the canal.

10) Etang de Mateille

If Gruissan is too dangerous for you in strong Tramontana (because it's offshore), you can practise your manoeuvres in complete safety in shallow water nearby at the Etang de Mateille. The north-westerly wind here is often less constant than at Gruissan Plage. The small lake is also a good spot in south-easterly winds. The Gruissan Sailing Centre is located on site.

11) Etang de Bages/Sigean

Between Narbonne and Port-La-Nouvelle is the core region of the Tramontana, where it often hacks relentlessly. There are two interesting spots in this area: the first is on the north-east shore of the lake. You start from La Nautique - where the Societe Nautique de Narbonne surf school is also located - in the direction of the small village of Bages. The view is unique and it's a wonderful place to do your laps.

The second spot is at the southern end of the lake, near Sigean, in Port Mahon. The view is less beautiful, but the conditions - flat water and small chop for jumping - are still great. The small Cercle Nautique Corbières centre is located right next to the spot.

2) Cap d'Agde

Tramontana is best surfed a little north-east of the cape at Marseillan Plage, where the wind forms a nice speed slope. A highlight is Cap d'Agde in strong south-easterly winds: at Plage Richelieu, downwind of the harbour pier, there are clean waves with sideshore winds from the left that are good for jumping and riding. Experience is required, as the current can be strong and the distance between the piers is not too great. Four kilometres to the northwest is the spot La Tamarissiere, where you have a good chance of catching a few moderate waves with wind from the right in strong westerly winds.

13) Etang de Thau

This lake between Cap d'Agde and Montpellier has been somewhat forgotten. You can easily get in at the harbour in Meze, but there are also various entry points in the direction of Marseillan. The lake is shallow in many places; only a few mussel beds, sea urchins and kiters can spoil the shallow water fun.

14) Etang d'Ingril

The small Etang d'Ingril is only 50 centimetres deep in many places, so be careful with long fins! A little insider tip for intermediates and tricksters, which doesn't get too crowded even in the main season. The Tramontana mobile surf centre with equipment from Hot Sails Maui is located on site. A good place to cruise even with summer thermals.

15) Palavas/Aresquiers

A great spot for slalom, speed and freestyle at Tramontana, because you can ride directly downwind of the beach and the wind blows "perfectly" offshore (and unfortunately sometimes a little gusty). With south-easterly winds there are big waves, but the entry is sometimes tricky because the wind blows onshore and a little shorebreak can be added. The best way to get into the water is to the right of the harbour pier, but this is also where the Montpellier surf scene is located. Many windsurfers therefore travel on to La Grande Motte.

16) La Grande Motte

The trip to Montpellier's favourite wave spot is particularly worthwhile in strong winds from the east-southeast. The harbour breakwater sorts the waves so that you can easily get through the surf downwind and ride the waves with wind from the left. However, the breakwater also makes for somewhat gusty conditions on the shore. Even in the low season, there is a lot going on on the water here. A south-westerly wind brings nice freeride conditions, Tramontana is covered here and is therefore not a tip.

17) Le Grau du Roi

It's an interesting spot because it also works in different weather conditions: with a south-easterly wind, you can enjoy a sideshore wind (from the left) and moderate waves. If the Tramontana blows a little more westerly, you can always enjoy a nice freeride session with a cross onshore wind from the right and a few chops for jumping.

18) Port-Camargue

If the Tramontana has a more westerly feel, the Plage Sud near Port-Camargue is a good spot with bump & jump conditions from the right. Every now and then, a small wave even strays onto the large, crescent-shaped sandy beach. This spot is located on the border of the Languedoc-Roussillon and Camargue regions, where the Tramontana's realm ends.

Further east, King Mistral takes over the reigns and here too, spot after spot is lined up and there is more and more on offer for true wave pilots.

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This spot guide first appeared in surf 3/2015

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