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Hardly any other windsurfing destination has experienced such an influx in recent years as the once quiet fishing village of Klitmøller. Ten years ago, there were only a few daring travellers from the north of the country on the water here, but the Bulli licence plates have long since become international, the term "Cold Hawaii" has become a brand name, and on windy summer days, the mussel reef is as busy as a beehive. For most travellers to Denmark, this area marks the end of the windsurfing world, with Norway and then the North Pole just beyond. And if you like the biggest and most powerful waves in the North Sea, you should continue to spend your surfing days at the spots around "Klitti".
But when the North Sea is roaring again and only the experts are still at work in Agger, Klitmøller or Hanstholm, or if you generally like it a little more relaxed and tame, a previously forgotten paradise opens up just a few kilometres further north-east: Between Løkken in the Jammer Bay and Denmark's northernmost town of Skagen, there are some of the country's longest and most beautiful sandy beaches, endless dune landscapes and empty windsurfing spots. On a windy and warm weekend in July, we went in search of them and surfed lonely spots with a handful of like-minded people, while at the same time 100 people were fighting over the waves in Klitmøller. Time to pay a visit to "Cold Hawaii light".
Denmark - the best windsurfing spots between Lokken and Skagen
1) Gjol
If you love shallow and perfectly smooth water, you can have fun not far from Aalborg. The spot can be reached from the motorway via main road 11, the town itself is signposted. From the main road, the small gravel track (Ostre Jydevej) leads directly to the fjord. Here, intermediates and shallow-water fans will find the perfect playground for heating and tricks, and the spot also works in a wide wind window. It never gets crowded, which is certainly not due to the quality of the spot. Further towards the harbour there are car parks and a little infrastructure. The water gets deep more quickly here and the standing area is only about 50 metres wide. A seaweed fin is a must for the entire Limfjord!
2) Løkken
Løkken is one of Denmark's most popular holiday resorts! Not only does it have a great sandy beach, campsites and a nice town centre with cafés and pubs, it also has great windsurfing conditions. The spot is reminiscent of a mixture of Hanstholm, Rømø and Heiligenhafen. In SSW to WSW winds, the waves are sorted and smoothed out by a breakwater; downwind, they run moderately and usually one to two metres high onto the beach, and the current is only light. As the beach is very shallow, there is no need to worry about material-killing shorebreak and you can slowly feel your way into the waves. Further out, there are several sandbanks with SW-WSW swells that sometimes break with larger waves for jumping and riding, although these are much less dangerous than in the Klitmøller region. A westerly swell and south-westerly wind is ideal, blowing sideshore from the left. If the wind shifts too much to the west, windward jams form on the steep cliff, then it is worth travelling to Kjul or Tversted.
surf tip: Directly downwind of the pier there are beautiful waves for surfing or SUPing, courses and hire (and great coffee!) are available at North Shore Surf ( www.northshoresurf.dk ).
3) Kjul Strand
With its long pier to windward, Kjul looks like Hanstholm's little brother. The route from Hirtshals is signposted and you can park and rig up on the firm sandy beach. Although the spot is very exposed to the W-NW, the waves are smaller than in Hanstholm, for example, which can definitely be an advantage on stormy days. The entrance on the endless sandy beach is easy even for wave beginners, the waves run out moderately and sometimes get bigger than two metres further out, but never hollow and material-killing - real fun conditions! Further upwind, you increasingly come under the protection of the long harbour pier of Hirtshals, where the current eases somewhat and the waves are usually even more moderate. If you're lucky, you'll catch days with a big swell from the west, when the WSW wind is also rideable and offers moderate down-the-line rides in somewhat gusty conditions. East winds are also surfable.
4) Tversted
Due to a slight bend in the coastline, this spot is better than Kjul in W-WSW, the wind blows sideshore from the left and the wave turns in better. You can also park and rig directly on the beach here. The waves break small (1 - 1.5 metres) close to the shore, but powerful. Further out they are bigger, but more gentle. Even as a wave beginner, you can get on the water here quite safely, as there are no obstacles or dangers lurking underwater and you have endless space to leeward. Only the current can be considerable during storms. It never gets crowded here either, and there are also campsites and various restaurants not far from the spot. North-east is also rideable, but offers more wind waves and chop for jumping than real surf conditions.
5) Skiveren
You could actually copy the text of the Tversted spot directly here - parking on the water, sandy beach, endless space, similar spot conditions and also the option of staying overnight at a campsite right next to the spot. The only difference is that you go here when the wind in Tversted is a little too offshore and gusty, as the coastline here is more south-west to north-east. The waves are rather small in the south-west, but the Cape of Hirtshals clearly covers south-westerly swell directions. You can also avoid the spot Kandestederne, another three kilometres away, in SW winds, but the further you get towards the northern tip of Denmark, the more massive and chaotic the currents become. Our recommendation in strong south-westerly winds is therefore definitely Løkken.
Area information North Denmark
Wind & Weather
The best wind conditions in the whole of the Danish North Sea are when there are westerly lows moving through - a weather situation that also occurs regularly in midsummer. Due to its exposed location, the area between Hanstholm and Skagen is one of the windiest in Europe, so you should always bring small sails. The weather is often changeable during periods of low pressure. While south of Hamburg you will be baking in the heat, up here in Denmark it can be very cool even in summer, so a warm wetsuit (4/3 in summer, 5/3 in spring and autumn) is recommended. The average air temperature in July is 20 degrees, the water 18 degrees. According to statistics, the best wind season is between March and May and between September and November, with a 50 to 75 per cent chance of winds over four Beaufort. But windy days are not uncommon in summer either. The further you move towards Skagen, the windier it gets, but the currents also become increasingly chaotic and dangerous, which is why the beaches in the far north are not really suitable for windsurfing.
Journey
The journey time to Hirtshals is the same as to Klitmøller, with the difference that the motorway here practically leads to the beach. From there, you can reach all the spots in the area in 20 minutes.
Surf schools & shops
...are few and far between up here, so it is essential to bring your own equipment. In Løkken you can hire surfers and SUPs in summer ( www.northshoresurf.dk ), the nearest surf shop is in Aalborg ( www.surfogskiaalborg.dk ), but the range is manageable.
Living & Camping
Denmark is the land of campsites and holiday homes. Although the price level is generally higher than in Germany, cosy holiday homes are available at very fair prices, especially in the low season. It is worth comparing well-known providers such as Novasol, Dansommer, Dancenter or Feriepartner.
Alternative programme
The north-west of Denmark often offers beautiful waves for SUPing or surfing for one or two days after the lows have passed through, even if the quality of the waves doesn't quite match that of the top spots between Klitmøller and Hvide Sande. A trip to Aalborg, a city of 120,000 inhabitants, is also worthwhile. In the charming old town with its small streets such as Jomfru Ane Gade, you can enjoy a good meal, take a stroll or visit one of the small trendy shops and art workshops.
This article first appeared in surf 9/2015
