Airport in Lisbon, Portugal, in November. During the stopover on our journey to Ceará in north-east Brazil, we meet Dennis Müller and his girlfriend Katrin. Dennis, a banker and third in the 2017 DWC rankings, is clearly feeling the hectic pace of the last few days with his job and travel preparations. Still completely out of breath, his first question: "Have you checked Windguru for the next few days?" We look at each other. "No, why would I?" In short, the Ceará region in Brazil is world-famous for its excellent wind and water conditions, as the coast from Cumbuco to Jericoacoara in the north of Brazil offers tropical air and water temperatures all year round and a wind probability of almost 100 per cent from July to December, but hardly any windsurfers go there yet!
Kite stronghold - Don't worry
For 15 years, tens of thousands of kitesurfers have travelled along this coastline every year and for many it is "the" destination par excellence. Initially reserved for a few adventurers, the Ceará region has developed into an international kite centre. There are as many spots as there are clothes on the washing line. Yes, we windsurfers are familiar with Jericoacoara and, to a lesser extent, Icaraizinho, but this region has much more to offer. Reason enough for us to set off in search of a few spots. "But bring lots of information with you so that every surf reader is able to make this trip after reading this story," the editor-in-chief of this magazine told us. And that is exactly our aim with "The Search: Ceará - Land of Sun and Wind".
The high proportion of water sports enthusiasts is already clearly visible on the TAP flight departing from Lisbon. Shirts and jackets from the well-known surf fashion labels. On arrival in Fortaleza, two(!) employees are employed in the bulky baggage area to unload the bags of the kitesurfers and the few windsurfers and pull them next to the conveyor belt. There are around 40 to 50 bags in total being pulled out by the employees, which means that at least a quarter of the plane was occupied by kitesurfers. And I see faces that I recognise from last year, or rather, from previous years.
At the exit, the employee of the hire car company is waiting for us with our four-wheel drive vehicle for the next two weeks, a VW Amarok. We put all the big bags in the back and off we go. The employee conveniently comes from Cumbuco, our station for the first two nights, so he also acts as our chauffeur there. The journey from the airport to the coastal town about 40 kilometres to the north takes around 45 minutes. Dennis has also downloaded a corresponding app at home, which means we will rarely get lost during the 14 days.
INFOS: Ceará
Travel time, climate and neoprene recommendation: At almost 600 kilometres long, the coast of Ceará with its huge dunes, steep cliffs, coconut palms and freshwater lagoons is one of the longest and most beautiful in Brazil. The climate is warm and humid, with average temperatures of 26 to 30 degrees and a humidity of 80 per cent. Water temperatures fluctuate between 25 and 28 degrees. A lycra and shorts are therefore sufficient. The sun shines every day from June to January, with most rainfall occurring in March, April and May. Then it sometimes rains for one or four hours, but rarely all day.
Wind: The wind in the Ceará region comes from the south-east and is therefore, depending on the spot, side- to sideonshore and strongest at midday. If you head northwards from Cumbuco, the wind force normally increases and the spots around Paracuru, for example, have half a wind force to one wind force more than in Cumbuco. If you use a 6-power freeride sail in Cumbuco, this is equivalent to a 5-power sail in Paracuru in somewhat rougher conditions. 300 kilometres north in Jericoacoara you can add another wind force compared to Paracuru.
From July to December, there is an almost 100 per cent probability that the south-east trade wind will blow along the coast of Ceará with wind forces of four or more. With a bit of luck, it even blows until the beginning of February. The months of January to March still boast a wind probability of 50 per cent. The rainy season extends into June and the wind only becomes constant again in July.
Due to local amplifiers, however, it blows much stronger than four Beaufort at most spots: the sand dunes in the hinterland act as a turbo and accelerate the trade wind. This is why it usually blows strongest in the midday hours and decreases towards the afternoon. In the morning, fields of cloud often pass through at all spots and it can rain again and again in these early hours. The wind is a matter of luck until around 10.00 a.m. and is almost impossible to predict.
The wind is strongest in the months of September and October, when it averages 5-6 Beaufort in Cumbuco, 5-7 in Paracuru and sometimes more in Jeri. Small sails (4.2-
4.7 square metres) is therefore a must. From November onwards, the wind becomes weaker and you need larger equipment (4.7 to 6.0 sails and 80-100 litres on the board) to have the necessary power every day. In general, the wind is weakest in Fortaleza and picks up more and more towards the north-west.
Journey: TAP Air Portugal flies from Lisbon to Fortaleza in around seven hours. Tip: Stays of several hours in Lisbon can be used for tours of the city centre.
Condor also flies several times a week and KLM has recently added an attractive connection via Amsterdam. It is always best to enquire about the airlines' current conditions for boarding.
Accommodation:Tropical Wind do Cumbuco/Kiters Paradise. Cosy pousada run by Manfred Spuck. You can tell that every one of his guests feels very comfortable here, and that's not just because of the very rich and good breakfast.
www.kitersparadise-cumbuco.com
Sun and Fun has a range of complete holidays to Icaraizinho and Jericoacoara and other pousadas in the larger towns.
www.sunandfun.com/surfen/ . The Surf & Action Company also has the top windsurfing spots in its programme: www.surf-action.com
Surfstation: Windsurfing shops and centres? There is the Club Ventos in Jericoacoara and Icaraizinho, www.clubventos.com. The founder and managing director is Fabio Nobre, the windsurfing bedrock in Jeri and someone who believed in this place 20 years ago and developed it further. Apart from that, there are no other shops or centres on the entire coast.
Car hire: We always have 4x4 cars on our trips to Brazil, which gives us even more flexibility on(!) the beaches. In some cases, these Hilux', Amaroks etc. can also be used to cover longer distances on the beach and the mouth of the river in Moitas cannot be reached any other way! But even with the four-wheel-drive cars you (often) get stuck, then you let enough air out of the tyres, dig away the soft sand - and on you go.
The 4x4 cars cost between 85-125 euros per day, buggies and other cars are around 40-60 euros per day.
Crime: We are asked about this time and time again, but on our dozen or so trips to the rural coastal towns in the Ceará and Natal regions so far, we have hardly noticed any crime. Police patrols are part of the townscape. From stories we know of one case in Pecem where the windows of a car were smashed and mobile phones and cash were stolen. In Fortaleza, a city with over a million inhabitants, you have to be careful!
Spots
1 Cumbuco
On our first trip to Cumbuco 15 years ago, there was virtually no tourism. Nowadays, the place attracts tens of thousands of kitesurfers every year who spend their holidays here or use it as a base for a trip further north. There are now countless pousadas ("guesthouses", the ed.) and hotels here, as well as several restaurants and surf shops. At the weekends, there are live bands playing in front of the pubs and bars that invite you to dance. This also attracts more and more Brazilians from the metropolis of Fortaleza, who spend their weekends here. In addition to kitesurfing tourism, this weekend tourism has become more and more of a factor.
One person who has been living in Cumbuco for 20 years is Manfred Spuck. "Manni", as he is known to everyone, started building a pousada here 16 years ago, which he gradually expanded as kitesurfing tourism increased. He emigrated from Germany 25 years ago and was an importer of the Fanatic board brand in the early days, which naturally made him a passionate windsurfer. Although the 78-year-old no longer goes windsurfing, he lovingly looks after every guest and has the best possible tips for everyone, making him the perfect port of call for windsurfers. Manni's Pousada "Tropical Wind" is just a two-minute walk from the beach.
The wind comes from the right with 15 knots sideshore in the morning and regularly increases to 20 knots in the course of the morning. It weakens very frequently in the afternoon, especially in November and December. In the course of these weaker afternoons, it is then only 11 to 15 knots.
We can expect hardly any waves and shorebreak at low tide this morning. At around 15 to 18 knots, Dennis selects the slalom material for this first session. These are classic freeride conditions that are easy to master three hours before and after low tide. Launching with larger sails, boards and longer fins is easy and recommended for intermediates. Outside there are choppy conditions at low water, but the higher the water level, the more swell waves build up. The challenge comes more and more as the tide rises, however, because the shore break is then a real challenge. In the area of the former "Eco-Paradise" hotel in particular, the waves breaking on the beach are easily up to a good metre high. Intermediate/occasional windsurfers are then clearly out of their depth. Perhaps five hundred metres to the south, the waves are more moderate, but still a factor.
The many kitesurfers on the water are not a factor. In the area of the former "Eco-Paradise" hotel, i.e. where we were windsurfing, there were hardly any kitesurfers on the water. These are further south, where there are two restaurants with bars and nice chill-out areas under palm trees and the kitesurfing scene is largely ("herd instinct") to be found there.
Be that as it may, the beach at Cumbuco is about eight kilometres long and you're bound to get lost, no matter how many kitesurfers are out there.
2 Vila Gale
If you do a downwinder from Cumbuco down to the Cauipe lagoon, you can expect better and better wave conditions on the way down. After around five kilometres, a densely populated line of palm trees appears quite close to the water's edge and this is where you will find good waves. These break cleaner than on any other section of the seven-kilometre downwinder to Cauipe. The gaps between the waves are also larger than elsewhere. The wind comes side-onshore here during the day and this location is ideal for lingering a little longer during the downwinder to the Cauipe lagoon.
For the downwinder to the lagoon, you can take a few reais for the Agua de Coco, which you can buy at the Cauipe lagoon. About twenty years ago, a picture of a windsurfer on this lagoon was featured in surf magazine. In the meantime, this shallow water spot has become overcrowded with kitesurfers, the water depth has decreased in recent years and windsurfing is not recommended at all, at least in the main months of October and November. There are buggy taxis for the way back to Cumbuco.
3 Pecem
In the lee of the long pier, there used to be nice clean waves of up to three metres with reasonably usable wind, but now the container port located here has been expanded and the spot has disappeared. A lot of industry has settled in Pecem in recent years, but what has remained are the bump & jump conditions in the area of the village, two kilometres north of the pier.
4 Taiba
After 45 minutes by car, we reach Taiba, a small village with decent waves - even for surfing. Local boys are regularly out on the water near the town centre and local surfing events take place here. The wind blows sideshore in the village and the fat waves break quite cleanly. However, it is not advisable to surf too close to the shore, as the wind is only gusty because the headland to the south of the village protrudes too far into the Atlantic. Nevertheless, a wave session in the area of the "Baraca" (Brazilian restaurant), i.e. in "Old Taiba", is worthwhile. "The waves are more onshore in relation to the wind direction. There are beautiful waves here," says Bernie Hiss, winner of the DWC in 1999, approvingly.
The "Taiba Lagoon" is located two kilometres north of the village and is "the" location for freestyle kitesurfers. The area of this lagoon has easily doubled from 2016 to 2017, but is still not big enough for all kitesurfers to meet here in peace in the finest smooth water. It's far too crowded. This spot would be a treat for any freestyle windsurfer, but is not recommended for windsurfers, at least not in the busy months of October and November.
5 Paracuru
A 75-minute drive north of Cumbuco is Paracuru, probably the best-known windsurfing spot in the area. Alternatively, you can drive from Taiba in a maximum of three hours before and after low tide by 4x4 across the beach, over a "dirt road" that is a real challenge, or via the road inland, which takes an hour longer.
The spot offers choppy conditions but also waves that break further out on the reef and are probably the biggest in the whole of Ceará. On good days with swell, these can be up to two (in rare cases up to three) metres high and can be ridden downwind. Unfortunately, they don't come in perfectly organised. Inside the reef, the water conditions become choppier when the tide rises. This means that the spot is tide-dependent in terms of water conditions. "The best waves are found when the tide is higher, although they break a little cleaner at low tide," says Stefan Kirchberger from Stuttgart enthusiastically. The higher tide also has an effect on the shorebreak. Two hours before and after high tide, it is not insignificant, so that even advanced sailors can have problems with it. The wind comes sideshore from the right and is stronger than in Cumbuco.
A few years ago, we met Brawzinho here, who comes from Fortaleza and used to go to Paracuru regularly before he emigrated to Maui. Otherwise, the spot is firmly in the hands of kitesurfers. Windsurfers with wave equipment can also be seen here regularly, but - unfortunately - they can be counted on one hand.
The barraca directly at the spot is the meeting place for water sports enthusiasts. There's lots of fish, even more caipis and plenty of shade for breaks in between.
Watch out for the leeward fish fences and the rocks lying just below the water surface at low tide.
The spot is three kilometres outside the village. There are a few restaurants and cafés in the town itself. The weekly market with lots of fruit and vegetables, fish and so on is worth a visit and the selection of pousadas is good. From the "Ventos Brasil" pousada, the bay of Paracuru is just a two-minute walk away. Here you can go surfing and stand-up paddling regardless of the tide.
6 Lagoinha
Postcard idyll! With the high dune, the shimmering red cliffs and the wonderful view, the place looks like a picture!
Surfers can regularly be found in the water. No wonder, as Lagoinha shines with clean, powerful waves. Nevertheless, the wind conditions are also quite gusty during the day. Due to the headland, the wind here is rarely consistent. The wind in Lagoinha becomes more even if you surf downwind, i.e. to the north. After two kilometres you reach a lagoon with the finest smooth water and standing depth. There are regularly a few kiters on the water here, but windsurfing should be just as possible. There is no infrastructure here.
7 Guajiru
Guajiru is always regarded as a wave spot in the scene and we have been there a few times in recent years, both somewhere on the route outside the village and as part of our trip in November within the village. The water conditions there are very tide-dependent. Yes, with high tide there are waves that break further out as well as just under land, but in our opinion they are not perfect to ride. However, the area around Guajiru in the direction of Flecheiras does offer good wave conditions with sideshore wind at various sections of the beach from time to time. There are also a few nice pousadas in the village.
8 Flecheiras
"Flecheiras", what was that? Right, until about five years ago, "Planet Allsports" operated a windsurfing centre there, which was integrated into a hotel on the outskirts of the village. Seven years ago, a digger suddenly arrived and simply tore the hotel away! It is rumoured that differing opinions about the ownership of the hotel led to this. The ruins still stand there today. However, there are nice pousadas and the luxury Hotel Dayo in the centre of the village is on top. In Flecheiras there are various good places to eat. Fish, lobster, langoustines in all variations directly on the beach.
We do not recommend starting at the headland, directly from the town centre, as there are rocks lurking under the surface of the water. But in the bay of Flecheiras we have great freeride conditions. A few hours before and after low tide, we are out there with the slalom board and have a lot of fun. Dennis is almost impossible to get off the water again. He goes up and down the bay at full speed. The conditions are easy, because even further out there is hardly any swell during these hours. Only at high tide does the tide turn. Both the shorebreak, which is not to be sneezed at, and the gusty wind on land make launching and the first few metres on the water no fun.
9 Embuaca
Embuaca is still relatively unknown, but this is likely to change in the near future. The waves are not the biggest in the area, but they run clean at times and break cleanly. In good conditions, you can manage up to four turns on one wave. "Embuaca has an easy-to-ride wave that you can play with!" enthuses a visibly enthusiastic Dennis Müller. "Embuaca is probably the spot with the best waves far and wide," says a French kitesurfer who has been exploring the whole coast up and down for years. The spot is not only suitable for wave freaks, but freeriders and jibe students will also have a great time. And we can't wait until a centre, pousadas and more baracas are established here.
The spot is safe, as the course of the beach makes a slight bend here, where you quickly regain contact with the ground under your feet. Embuaca is located on a small, shallow bay where fishing boats are moored leeward. Children play on the beach and the village community spends the afternoons gathered by the water, everything is wonderfully relaxed here. The water conditions are not choppy, but - regardless of the tide - smooth. Despite the kitesurfers who come here, there is always enough space on the water. A little way to windward there is another small reef and fishing rods in the water, which are clearly visible. Otherwise, the beach is free of stones.
While neighbouring spots often have to contend with the "side-off" in the mornings and evenings, Embuaca invites you to enjoy unforgettable surf sessions all day long with its constant sideshore wind. If you look to the left across the beach, you will see the small, dreamy fishing village of Embuaca. The djangardas, typical Brazilian sailing boats, are lined up along the beach. Fishing is still the main source of income in this small village. The daily fresh fish and lobsters straight from the fisherman are available in the baracas, which are located directly on the beach. Dennis Müller: "There are nice shady spots to chill out right by the spot, a meadow to set up your equipment, a beautiful sandy beach and a 50-centimetre beach break. Embuaca is ideal for wave beginners and freeriders."
10 Praia Baleia
At the sight of the spot - we are on the beach around low tide - Dennis immediately gets out his freestyle board. Good smooth water to choppy conditions and around 20 knots are perfect for manoeuvre training. There is also an area with standing depth. The spot is suitable for intermediates and advanced riders when the tide is low. A wave breaks outside and days later a windsurfer tells us that there were two metres of clean breaking waves on the reef. At high tide, the water comes right up to the palm trees in the village and you are well advised to drive the car up quickly. Otherwise? You can drive from Praia da Baleia to Icaraizinho on the beach when the tide is not so high, provided you have a four-wheel drive.
11 Icaraizinho
"Wow, this place is beautiful!" Dennis and Katrin can't get their mouths shut. A beautiful, long bay, well sheltered from the wind inside, tall palm trees and our pousada "Casa Zulu", which is wonderfully embedded in the landscape. The owners, Roxanne and Edouard, have used a lot of wood in their pousada, so that you don't want to get up from the breakfast table with its view of the garden and the bay. Up at the point, the wind is side-offshore, there is no significant shorebreak regardless of the tide and the waves break reasonably two hours before and after high tide, so you can at least manage two turns on the wave. At low tide, watch out for shallows in the water. Perhaps 100 metres below the point, to our delight, there are a few windsurfers on the water. Club Ventos has been renting out JP, Starboard and NeilPryde equipment here for several years. There is also a comprehensive range of training, storage, SUP board hire and so on.
At the leeward end of the bay there are slightly higher, disorganised waves, which on good days encourage Edouard from the Pousada Zulu to go waveboarding.
Dennis Müller: "My discovery of this trip, because we love Icaraizinho: In a nutshell, it's the best all-round windsurfing spot, the strongest and most constant wind, every windsurfer gets their money's worth, a reef 300 metres out, a gentle wave one to 1.5 metres high at high tide for riding and ramps perfect for practising front loops. Freestylers can do their pirouettes on flat water in the bay, freeriders up to the reef for beginners, advanced riders can hone their jumping technique and jump over the reef waves. Family-friendly, girlfriend-friendly!"
A 20-minute drive inland from Icaraizinho is a large lagoon for smooth water swimming. Here you have the privilege of being able to let off steam alone on the water. However, the wind comes a little way over land and is therefore quite gusty.
Another 20 minutes by car, but now north of Icaraizinho, is the estuary of Moitas. We loved getting stuck in the soft sand on these trips, but I guess that's part of it...
12 Moitas
On the Rio Aracatiacu, you can find the finest smooth water three hours before and after low water! We wondered where else in the world we would find water as smooth as here at this river mouth. Jibes, freestyle moves, heating and all that with plenty of space! If you surf more towards the mangroves, it gets a lot more gusty. Dennis Müller: "Great, there are mirror-smooth freestyle laboratory conditions here, just one metre off the shore at full throttle, but watch out for the strong current when the tide changes. The backdrop of mangrove forest and wind turbines is characteristic of this spot!"
13 Jericoacoara
"Jeri" has developed considerably in recent years. Brazilian tourism has been added to water sports tourism with massive development. A number of new hotels have been built, particularly of a higher standard. Furthermore, it is no longer permitted to drive into the town by car, but this benefits the flair of the town. From simple pousadas to chic hotels, from simple Brazilian food to expensive sushi restaurants, Jeri has a lot to offer. And - finally - we are out on the water with many windsurfers. Where we felt so lonely on our way to Jeri, here the spot is packed. The offer at the Club Ventos surf centre is just as good. The centre offers JP, Starboard and NeilPryde equipment, SUP boards and surfers. Owner Fabio Nobre is constantly developing Club Ventos and has expanded the lounge areas in recent years. Like in an arena, you can look out over the surf spot, protected from the wind and sun. Kitesurfing is prohibited here! At the spot, the waves break quite cleanly at a maximum height of one to 1.5 metres and you can marvel at high jumps, wave rides and the latest freestyle power moves, as pros like Arrianne Aukes or Gollito suddenly rock up next to you on the wave. Alternatively, there are various lagoons around Jeri with the finest smooth water conditions. What sail sizes are used? Freestylers are on the water with 4.0 to 4.5 square metres and wavers with 4.5 to 5.3.
Dennis Müller: "Jeri is the windsurfing mecca of Brazil, this is where we met the most windsurfers on our trip and had the strongest trade winds (18 to 25 knots). The wind picks up throughout the day, making it ideal for longboarding or SUPing in the morning and then jumping on a windsurf board. The wind only gusts through the bay! There is flat water in front and a nice wave outside, which is great for jumping and riding. It can get pretty crowded, so keep your eyes open to give way. But if you drop off a bit or surf further out in the open wind, there's enough space for everyone. And spectators can enjoy watching the water sports enthusiasts from the sun loungers at Club Ventos!
If you drop off sharply from the point, you have a wind nozzle right in front of the "sunset sand dune". It's ideal for practising freestyle power moves and you'll meet some freestyle pros.
If you cross up from the point, you have one to two metre high ramps at the wave spot (around 500 metres south of the point!), which are fun for wave beginners to wave pros!"
